#281 – December 18, 2014
Happy Chanukah to all! As we know, food plays a very important role on Chanukah (as with most Jewish holidays, Chanukah can be thematically characterized as “they tried to kill us, we won, let’s eat”) which is easily one of my favorite holidays, combining family time with presents, tons of really good (and traditionally unhealthy) food and plenty of “excuses” to crack open some really good wines. Now, while we obviously don’t need a special excuse to drink the good stuff (as discussed in Newsletter #257), I am certainly an advocate “making” the right occasion); people tend to use Chagim as an excuse to uncork a special bottle. The lack of joyous occasions on the Jewish calendar between Sukkot and Chanukah also contributes in creating built up “demand” for an excuse to crack open the “good stuff”.
While nearly every Jewish holiday is typically celebrated with prime cuts of meat, big and bold wines and copious amounts of fat, cholesterol and sugar; Chanukah is a leader in this regard given the sheer number of unhealthy treats traditionally associated with it. This includes a hodgepodge of traditional edibles that range across the taste, flavor and texture spectrum, a diversification that while delicious, can also throw a wrench in traditional wine and food-pairing concepts. While you all know I don’t adhere to a ridged concept of wine and food pairing rules, there are a number of general tips that can help avoid some potential pitfalls and ensure that you enjoy your carefully selected wines with whatever goodies are being served. The litany of artery-clogging foods traditionally associated with Chanukah is long and includes Sufganiyot (deep fried donuts filled with jelly, crème, chocolate or dulce le leche among others), Latkes (fried potato pancakes), hard and soft cheeses, chocolate coins (gelt) and other assorted goodies, with oil playing a pivotal role in many of these delights. The abundance of oil is intentional, commemorating the Chanukah miracle in which a one-day supply of oil for the Menorah lasted a full eight days. The miracle also serves as a personal inspiration to me, as I continuously wish for such a miracle to be replicated in my wine cellar…
However, the task is not nearly as Herculean as the many articles and experts would have us believe. As any reader of this newsletter worth his/her salt knows that the “right” wine is going to be the wine that you enjoy the most and the most important aspect of food and wine pairing is to drink wines you enjoy, especially for a family-oriented holiday like Chanukah. That said; there are a few things to keep in mind that can help successfully navigate the pleasure laden waters typically associated with the week of Chanukah.
The one wine with the potential for a near-perfect pairing with any of the holiday treats you are contemplating is sparkling wine. Champagne or other sparkling wines make a great choice for any pairing opportunity and are especially appropriate for a holiday meal, with their added inherent festivity. Sparkling wine is the traditional wine for special occasions, which obviously includes Chanukah. Other white wines which are going to be good bets include Riesling, of which the kosher consumer now has a few good options (both bone dry and slightly sweeter) including those from Hagafen, Lueria and Carmel. Gewürztraminer is another great option with some nice choices coming from Yarden and Lueria. Pinot Grigio would be a good choice as well but the lack of good kosher options other than Dalton’s delightful inaugural version render it a less than stellar option. For latkes a dryer Riesling or Gewürztraminer works while Sufganiyot or other sweeter fare are going to be better off paired with a wine that has a tinge of sweetness to it like one of Hagafen’s Riesling wines with a touch of residual sugar (the 2% is a great bet for such matches) or full blown dessert wines including Port.
Given all the Chanukah oil, it is also vitally important to drink lots of red wine (by the time the holiday is over you will likely need substantial time on the Stairmaster or plenty of Lipitor just to get your blood flowing again). Every other day I read another article about the virtues of red wine on our hearts and believe a special shout-out is in order to all those scientists dedicating lifetimes of research to the medical benefits of booze. While most red wines aren’t a great match for oil-laden goodies, lighter red wines such as less earthy versions of Pinot Noir (with the best kosher options coming from California’s Four Gates or Covenant (in their Landsman Wine Club) and Israel’s Gvaot and Ella Valley), Beaujolais (although the dearth of quality kosher options make it a tough one to find) or even (hold your fire for a somewhat non-confirming suggestion) a Rosé. While usually considered a summer wine, I completely agree with Eric Asimov on its year-round appropriateness and would recommend a crisply dry Rosé as an exceptional match for much of Chanukah’s bounty. With its ascending popularity, we are now blessed with a myriad of nice Rosé wines including those from Agur, Castel, Dalton, Domaine Netofa, Flam, Hajdu, Recanati and Shirah (all with varying degrees of dryness and fruitiness). As with each of the recommended varietals, please check out the individual newsletter on my site for specific recommendations or shoot me an email with any specific questions.
Listed below are tasting notes for a number of wines I recommend pairing with the coming deluge of holiday goodies. That said, please keep in mind that Chanukah is a week of celebration. When it is all said and done, choosing a holiday wine is more about what you prefer and what your guests will enjoy than picking the “right” wine.
Have a Happy Chanukah and Shabbat Shalom,
Yossie
Carmel, Vineyards, Gewürztraminer 2013: As Gewürztraminer shifts from its prior primary qualitative role as a dessert wine and starts making more and more dry appearances, the innumerable acres of land devoted to this grape are proving their value. With Carmel’s recent white wines showing massively improved quality basically across the board, I wasn’t too surprised to find that this wine, housed within Carmel’s newly launch “Carmel Vineyards” series (which ranks between the Appellation and Single Vineyard labels), was quite good. A characteristically true nose of green apple, lychee and hints of spiciness leads nicely into more of the same on the light to medium bodied palate with lemon and pomelo lingering on the finish. Plenty of acidity abounds to keep things fresh and to balance out the residual sugar that many will find pleasing and helpful in multiple wine pairings. A delightful addition to Israel’s [massively] growing portfolio of refreshing white wines.
Carmel, Kayoumi Vineyard, Riesling 2013: This is certainly among Carmel’s top wines and given the prestigious portfolio in which it keeps coming that is certainly high praise for this gorgeous and elegant wine. While the wine is eminently drinkable now and a clear participant in Israel’s magnificent 2013 vintage for whites, it will be even better in 6-9 months. In a slight deviation from prior vintages, this year’s version is completely dry (although the rich abundant of fruit does give off a slightly sweet perception on first note), providing kosher Riesling lovers with a “real” Israeli Riesling for the first time. A subtle nose that opens with time to reveal notes of blooming flowers, lemons, some pears, minerals and leads into a medium bodied rich palate loaded with plenty more citrus, more flinty minerals, resin and a nice lingering and slightly spicy finish. A refreshingly “retro” 12.5% AbV rounds out this delight that delivers in every way imaginable.
Covenant, Landsman, Pinot Noir, 2011: Landsman is the name of Covenant’s wine club which provides quarterly shipments of a Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel each year. 2011 was the inaugural year for the club and this Pinot Noir immediately catapulted itself into the (albeit very small) upper echelon of kosher Pinot Noir wines (I was not as big a fan of the 2012 vintage but the 2013 vintage seems to have gotten back on track). A bright and rich nose draws you in with intoxicating notes of ripe cherry, plum, earthy minerals, forest floor and some herbal notes and continues on a medium bodied somewhat plush palate of raspberries, plenty of cherry, lovely spicy notes, more minerals a wonderfully integrated tannic structure with good acidity that provide ample backbone for the expressive fruit to showcase beautifully. While not the current vintage, this wine is drinking beautifully right now and it’s worth pulling a bottle out of your cellar and enjoying now.
Dalton, D, Pinot Gris, 2013: With Na’ama continuously showing her winemaking ability and creativity, Dalton recently released one of Israel’s only [quality kosher] Pinot Gris (commonly known as Pinot Grigio, even though, technically speaking, Pinot Grigio refers to the Italian clone only). Dalton’s inaugural limited run of 6,000 bottles was from their Misgav vineyard in the Upper Galil. The wine opens with a pleasing tropical nose of mango, pineapple, pears, white peach and limes and continues to delight on its medium bodied palate with more tropical fruit, pears, plenty of citrus, grassy notes accompanied by some steely and slightly saline-oriented minerals, spices and rounded out with a pleasing bitterness on the finish. Abundant (and I mean abundant) acidity keeps the wine crazy lively and a great match to the vast majority of foods you would think to throw at it. Good QPR and 13% AbV makes this a good wine to drink early and often.
Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2007: Insanely enough, yet wholly representative of the winery’s undisputed position as Israel’s best, the 2007 vintage rises above the amazing 2005, improving on its near-perfection. Easily one of the best kosher sparkling wines and one that could compete even with some of the French Champagne wines available these days while providing exceptional value and a YH Best Buy (although retail prices for this wine seem to have risen recently). Yeasty notes of brioche join plenty of rich citrus, tart apple and summer fruits. Tightly focused and delightfully concentrated bubbles live on and on and the bracing acidity helps keep all the fruit and toasty notes lively on the amazingly refreshing palate. A wine to stock up on and drink for years to come.
Hagafen, Brut Cuvée, Late Disgorged, 2007: Hagafen released three different sparkling wines for the 2007 vintage, the other two are a Cuvee de Noir (reviewed in #237) and the “standard” Brut Cuvée) and all are delightful (there will be a “late disgorge” release of this wine as well). An expressive blend of Pinot Noir (80%) and Chardonnay (20%), the wine has a wonderfully fresh nose of lemon, tangerine, summer fruit, hints of strawberries and milk chocolate and nice yeasty notes or toasted brioche with plenty of tight bubbles keeping it lively. A medium to full bodied palate presents with raspberries, tart grapefruit, cooked strawberries and lemons, yeasty brioche and more summer fruits with a lingering finish that pleases with great minerals and a hint of pleasing citrusy bitterness. A truly enjoyable wine that is drinking beautifully now, the wine should cellar through 2017, maybe longer.
Hagafen, White Riesling, Devoto Vineyards, 2012: With 2% residual sugar, this is my favorite of the White Riesling wines produced by Hagafen, including two with increasingly high levels of residual sugar (4% and 6% in the Prix version). A rich nose of tropical fruit, lavender, lychee, citrus and honey envelopes you as soon as you pour your first glass. Plenty of bracing acidity backs up the rich fruit and honey on the medium to full bodied palate which includes more pineapple, guava, kiwi, some fresh peach, heather, melon, peaches with a hint of sweetness that is truly delightful. A long lingering finish with a hint of minerals rounds out this wine and had me coming back for more. Drink now through 2018.
Hajdu, Makom, Pinot Noir, 2012: Another great wine from one of my favorite winemakers – Jonathan Hajdu (who is also the assistant winemaker for Covenant (whose Pinot Noir is also reviewed above), this wine is only available directly from the winemaker but is well worth the effort in sourcing it. Located within Jonathan’s “Makom” label (which also houses his Carignan and Grenache Blanc), the wine is 100% Sonoma Pinot Noir. A classic California Pinot Noir (if there really is such a thing), with a lovely nose of cherries, currants, a hint of summer, freshly turned earth and notes of slate minerals that keep things interesting well into the medium bodied palate that is replete with plenty more rich fruit, great minerals and earthy overtones accompanied by warm spices and a California hint of dark chocolate, toffee brittle and a touch of smoky oak. Drink now or over the year two years and enjoy.
Lueria, Gewürztraminer, 2013: Lueria is another winery who I have been following for years and which is starting to gain greater recognition and well-deserved acclaim. Even with the recent and aforementioned proliferation of Gewurztraminer wines, Lueria’s version has managed to maintain its position at the top of the heap. While I personally prefer the 100% dry version made as a white label wine for a non-kosher Israeli restaurant, the amount residual sugar in this wine is small, enhancing and likely a big contributor to its popularity (in addition to its high QPR and reasonable 12.5% AbV). A semi-dry medium bodied wine made from 100% free-run Gewürztraminer grapes with a literal smorgasbord of pineapple, honeydew, mango, white peaches characteristically true lychee, lovely floral notes and a touch of spice on both the nose and medium-bodied palate, tempered by great acidity and enhanced by a touch of residual sugar. Buy by the boatload – everyone will love this wine.