Yossie's Corkboard

#191 – November 18, 2011

For most people the onset of fall means gorgeous color-changing foliage, the World Series (a very sore topic for me this year), football (jury is out for now on this one), S’mores, sweaters, blazing fireplaces and Thanksgiving weekend. While some wine lovers may perk up at such minutia, most oenophiles tend to focus on important stuff like the intricacies of the harvest and fermentation, the timely depletion of our summertime Rosés and the wine selection for the coming Holidays, Thanksgiving and Chanukah.

Since your Chanukah wine issues will be solved with the upcoming shipment of the Leket Wine Club, this newsletter is focused on helping you make the right decision for your Turkey repast, coming up next Thursday evening. As a reminder, the Leket Wine Club makes a great holiday gift (especially for yourself) and provides a great entree into the wonderful world of exciting Israeli wines, all while helping Leket Israel fulfill its mission of eradicating hunger in Israel (a portion of the proceeds go to benefit this great organization’s exceedingly important work). For my new subscribers, you can read more about the wine club (and my involvement) here and here (where you can also sign up). Also, while I no longer make Mazal Tov wishes from this platform, this week I am making a well-deserved exception for my sister Serylle and her fiancé Yair, and sending them a huge Mazal Tov on their engagement (and thanking them for the “excuse” to open up some heavy hitters this weekend in happy celebration)! Welcome to the family Yair!

As Thanksgiving rapidly approaches, in addition to the onset of a never-ending loop of Christmas Muzak in every retail store you enter over the next six weeks, one is hit with an onslaught of articles, videos and educational (i.e. promotional) material, dealing with the apparently very complicated question of what wines to pair with your Thanksgiving meal. While turkey is a bland slate for wine pairing; the potential mélange of textures and flavors typically present at a traditional Thanksgiving feast can complicate wine pairing significantly and choosing the “right” wine to seamlessly accompany all this gluttony can be slightly overwhelming, especially coming on the heels of preparing all that food. However, this task is not nearly the Herculean task all these articles and experts would have us believe and the “right” wine is really the wine that you enjoy the most.

As I have mentioned many a time in the past, the most important aspect of food and wine pairing is to drink wines you enjoy and on a family-oriented holiday like Thanksgiving, even more so. Therefore, the fact that there isn’t a perfect pairing for the day (akin to my personal favorite of Sauternes and foie gras), allows choosing the wine to be dictated by wines you (and your guests) enjoy – which is the way it should be. In this newsletter I have attempted to lay out some general thoughts and suggestions to guide to you a good pairing but don’t get stuck on them – wine pairing rules and conforming to them is for the birds…

General Suggestions/Tips

When picking the wines, look for wines which are relatively low in alcohol which will help limit (palate and general) fatigue during the long meal. A key criterion for any white wines to be served with the meal is high acidity, which contributes to their food versatility. For red wines, you are looking for those light-bodied wines with little tannins which can sometimes overpower foods. For a large family gathering I’d aim for more moderately priced wines and save those special bottle for a more intimate affair where the will better shine and be more appreciated. That said if the planned meal is more of a classy intimate dinner than large gregarious pot luck gathering – by all means, crack open that special bottle. I would recommend leaving those aged bottles in the cellar for another occasion as the cacophony of the meal will significantly hamper their appreciation and they may fall apart before anyone has a chance to try them.

Given Thanksgiving’s role as the American holiday, there are those who try to drink an “American” wine, typically Zinfandel (despite its potentially murky origins). However, given their propensity to be big and higher in alcohol, in my opinion they don’t exactly have the light, nimble and refreshing qualities we are looking for. That said, as a sentimental traditionalist, I like to have at least one good Zinfandel at my Thanksgiving meal since, if you can get over the high-alcohol issue, provides a nice big wine for the meal. Both Herzog and Hagafen produce some great California Zinfandels. In addition to its patriotic profile as an American invention, its bold fruit and spicy notes makes a good match to the varied taste profiles of sweet, spicy and bitter.

While no perfect pairing awaits, one wine has the potential to successfully pair with whatever Thanksgiving Day treats you decide to throw at it – sparkling wine. Champagne or other sparkling wines make a pretty good choice bringing food-paring versatility, elegance, and festivity to your meal. It also happens to be the wine of choice for special occasions and does it get any more special than the celebration of our freedom with close friends and family?

In addition to the sparkling wines I mentioned above, there are a few additional varietals that would make for good all around Thanksgiving pairings; however the kosher world still lacks high quality versions of these varietals. On that list, I’d include Riesling, Beaujolais and Gewürztraminer (although the Yarden 2009 Gewurztraminer is really nice and the varietal is an awesome match for Turkey).

If you are looking for a red wine then Pinot Noir is the obvious choice and a traditional favorite for a Thanksgiving Day celebratory feast. Pinot Noir’s notes of earthy forest and mushrooms, meld nicely with bright red cherries and other red fruit, making it a good match to the traditional turkey and savory stuffing combinations. Throw in the characteristic low tannins and you get an extremely versatile wine that pairs well with many foods. Four Gates, Ella Valley, Tzuba, Livni and Hagafen (among others) all make good options (if not “true” pinot Noir).

If you are looking for a white wine any non-oaky Chardonnay like the ones offered by Binyamina, Dalton and Ella Valley would be good. Another, slightly more “adventurous option would be Viognier, which can provide a new varietal which pairs nicely with food as well. As you know, my favorite is the Dalton Wild Yeast version, but Galil Mountain and Yatir make good ones as well, providing two additional different price points. Another good choice is Pinot Grigio/Gris which is capable of standing up to the various garlic, onions and herbs and the high-fat and flavorful dishes. Goose Bay and Cantina Gabrielle provide passable but somewhat unexciting options. A final and somewhat non-confirming suggestion would be a Rosé. While usually considered summer wines, a crisply dry and refreshing Rose would fit the bill perfectly and, as an added bonus, its glorious cranberry color would compliment the Thanksgiving table beautifully. I love the Rosé from Castel which is unfortunately long gone from the shelves (and was only sold in Israel) but the 2010 Recanati version is delightful and well-priced as well and the newly arrived Agur Rosa is a particular favorite (stock up since there won’t be a 2011 Rosé).

I have included below some recommendations of wines I like but remember – Thanksgiving is a celebratory day and when it is all said and done, choosing a Thanksgiving wine is more about what you prefer and what your guests will enjoy than picking the “right” wine.

Shabbat Shalom and Happy Thanksgiving,
Yossie

RED WINES

Hagafen, Prix Reserve, Pinot Noir, Fagan Creek Vineyard – Block 38, 2006: While not a classic Pinot in the full sense of the varietal, this wine remains one of the best Pinot Noirs I have enjoyed. Tasting it together with the other Pinot available in the Prix line (from the Soleil vineyard) is a lot of fun, and effectively presents the terroir effect on a wine. I had the 2004 a couple years back which was very much enjoyed and am delighted to see that Ernie has duplicated his prior success. Plenty of black forest fruit on the smoky nose together with dark espresso, cloves and some steely minerals poking through, all leading into a rich palate laden with black cherries, raspberries, anise, more warm spices and freshly baked pound cake. A long and caressing finish lingers.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Pinot Noir, 2008 (Shmittah): While not every wine I have tasted from the vaunted 2008 Israeli vintage is the superstar some would have us believe, this wine made from 100% Pinot Noir Grapes harvested from Ella Valley’s Aderet vineyard was really delicious and something special. An elegant wine and full bodied (yet so gentle) with plenty of black and red fruit on both the nose and palate including black cherries, cassis and strawberries with some spicy oak resulting from the 16 months in French oak leading into a strawberry and cherry-laced finish with a hint of tannin. Bold tannins that needed some time to settle down in the glass but with a stylish structure that bodes extremely well for the continued development of this wine. In an effort to pamper this fickle grape, Ella Valley actually erected a canopy over the vines to protect from the harsh Israeli sun. I don’t know if it helped but the proof is surely in the wine which is scrumptious. Great now, this wine will be better in six months and should cellar nicely for 3-4 years.

Four Gates, Pinot Noir, n.v.: I don’t know if I have ever used beautiful to describe a wine but there really isn’t any other word to describe this medium bodied violet scented wine with a gentle nose. Blended with 50% each from the 2007 and 2008 vintages, this wine was great on its own but incredible with food. Plum, cherry, raspberry and cranberry on both the nose and palate with some nice hints of roasted herbs, toasted oak and kirsch. A medium and caressing finish rounded out this lovely wine. Four Gates’ traditionally high acidity is an added benefit to the food-versatility of this wonderful wine.

Binyamina, Reserve, Zinfandel, 2007: This is a big Zinfandel that spent 15 months in both French and American oak, while managing to retain a relatively low (for Zinfandel, which tends to be higher in alcohol) 14% alcohol level and staying true to the varietal. Typical notes of black pepper and leather match up with ripe raspberries and strawberries. Hints of bittersweet chocolate and mint on a medium finish round out this powerful wine. I enjoyed the wine more on its own than as a match to food.

WHITE WINES

Binyamina, Reserve, Unoaked Chardonnay, 2010: While delightful, I actually enjoyed the 2009 version of this unoaked treat more. However, that should not detract from your enjoyment of this light-bodied and refreshing treat. Following the lead of many Israeli wineries to “unoak” their wines and allow the fruit to show in a more pure manner, Binyamina now produces both an oaked and unoaked chardonnay under the Reserve label. Tasting these two wines side-by-side makes for a fascinating comparison and great tasting experience and well worth your Lirot for the drinking and tasting experience. With no oak to get in the way, tropical fruit notes of white peaches and guava are accompanied by white peaches, limes, tangerine and pears, all kept nicely in check by stony minerals with a nice lingering clean fruit finish. I’d venture that a bit more acidity would have made this wine even better, but there is plenty to keep it lively and a good match to lighter fare.

Carmel, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Riesling, 2010: The last release of this wine was the 2006 vintage but the drought is finally over with this release. As with every other wine Lior coaxes out of the magical Kayoumi vineyard, this wine is a nearly a perfectly-crafted wine, with a very aromatic nose, generous acidity. Ever-so-slightly off-dry with plenty of peach, apricot, grapefruit, blooming flowers and hints of minerals on a crisply acidic background that lends itself to great food-pairing. A really delicious wine and definitely worth seeking out.

SPARKLING

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc De Blancs, 2005: Fortunately this wine finally made it to our shores as it is easily an YH Best Buy and the best substitute for true kosher Champagne at a much lower price. After successive (and successful) releases in 1998, 1999 and 2000, the last marketed vintage of this wine was the delicious 2001 vintage. I am not sure why they waited four years to make another, but am happy they finally did! I have also heard rumors of a late disgorged 2000 version which I’d love to lay my hands on and compare with my last remaining bottle of “regular” 2000, so if anyone has any info on that, please let me know. If I needed to sum up this wine in one word it would be an easy task (even for me) – delicious. Grapefruit, lime, apple, melon and hints of pineapple abound in this delicious wine which is bone dry and loaded with crisp acidity. Toasted yeasty brioche and sharp, long-lasting bubbles make this wine a delight and an awesome match with almost any dish you care to throw its way. Stock up while you can since, at around $20 a bottle, it won’t be around for long.

ROSE

Domaine Netofa, Rosé, Galilee, 2010: Read about the winery at the bottom of this page. Pierre Miodownick also has a higher-end wine and this Rosé which, like the blend was really fun and enjoyable to drink beating back the heat and humidity with a cheerful smile. Utilizing the same grapes as the blend (Syrah and Mourvèdre), this wine has a bit more body than many of the other Rosés I reviewed, good fruit and a nice reflection of terroir with some flinty rock on the mid palate. I recently tasted his new vintages as some exciting new stuff at the Sommelier fair in Israel so stay tuned for more notes from me and great wine from Pierre.

#190 – November 11, 2011

Recently reviewing my seven years of newsletter writing, I was astounded to discover that I had never written about the most popular and prominent grape of them all – Cabernet Sauvignon. While I have provided tasting notes over the years for countless awesome Cabernet Sauvignon wines, the grape has never been afforded its own platform to shine in Yossie’s Wine Recommendations. So this week we return to discuss a noble varietal that used to reign king among all wines but whose popularity has waned in recent years as the preferences of oenophiles world-round have started to shift to wines of elegance, structure and food-friendliness. While these used to be the attributes of the better Cabernet Sauvignon wines, recent decades have seen, mostly in response to consumer (and Robert Parker’s) tastes, an explosion of big, bold, fruit forward and oak loaded Cabernet Sauvignon wines against which consumers have started to resist in the last decade or so.

Notwithstanding the fact that Cabernet Sauvignon was the most widely planted noble variety for most of the 20th century, it’s a relatively new varietal resulting from a chance encounter of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc in the mid 17th century. Cabernet Sauvignon’s dramatic rise to prominence during this time period can be attributed at least in part to its place as the primary varietal in Bordeaux’s famed Left Bank wines, where it is blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc to produce some of the world’s most illustrious wines distributed in large quantities around the world. The two primary wine-growing areas that have contributed most to the reign of Cabernet Sauvignon are Bordeaux and California where for years Cabernet Sauvignon has reigned supreme. Another area of prominence was Tuscany where Cabernet Sauvignon put the “Super” in the Super Tuscan wines we discussed in newsletter #174. The differing climates have a substantial effect on the type of wine that is ultimately produced with cooler regions such as Bordeaux yielding grapes that are harvested less ripe than their Californian counterparts who are blessed with an abundant warmth and sunshine resulting in grapes with higher sugar contents and riper fruit. One tangible effect this difference has is in the alcohol content with Bordeaux coming in around 13% and many Californian wines easily crossing the 14% into the 15% range.

The grape’s hardy physical attributes were a major contributor to its prominence, with its thick and tannin-loaded skins (with a very high seed to fruit ratio) and hardy, rot-resistant, vines contributing to the ease of its cultivation and its ability to thrive in many different climates and soils, allowed it to be planted in many wine regions around the world (to the extent it was referred to as the “colonizer grape”, with some regions sacrificing plantings of their indigenous varietals for Cabernet Sauvignon. Another positive attribute of Cabernet Sauvignon wines is its aging ability with some prime Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux wines possessing the ability for over half a century with continuous improvement over such time. While most Cabernet Sauvignon wines don’t posses these abilities (the best of Israeli versions are currently achieving a 20 year lifespan at best and even that is only for a very selected few wines), most well-crafted versions will improve over a time period of 3-10 years, metamorphosing from angular, harsh and tannic wines in their infancy to lush, elegant powerhouses of complexity once the tannin and wood integrate with the fruit and other flavor components.

Cabernet Sauvignon is also a grape about whom wine makers say “needs oak”, leading most quality Cabernet Sauvignon wines to spend substantial aging time in oak barrels which impart additional flavors and aromas commonly attributed to the varietal including smoke, tar, espresso, vanilla. The time in oak barrels also helps to soften grape tannins replacing them with oak tannin (which can have a positive or negative effect, depending on a multitude of factors). The type, size and amount of “toast” of oak barrels all have a substantial effect on the final product that gets bottles. Poorly made Cabernet Sauvignon, where the wine making has not succeeded in taming the beast, will often provide dank vegetal notes of bell peppers or cabbage resulting from the over developed pyrazines in the grape– certainly not flavors one is looking for when reaching for the king of wines.

However, while many Cabernet Sauvignon wines have the potential and actually achieve greatness, many such wines are made as Merlot twins with plenty of rich plush fruit, early drinkability and without any of the specific charms of the grape whose primary flavor is easily black currents, accompanied by blackberries, cassis, plum, cedar and green notes of mint and eucalyptus.

Over the past decade or so, a revolution of sorts has been taking place around the world (in Israel this has been occurring over the last 4-5 years) challenging Cabernet Sauvignon’s place at the top of the Vinifera pyramid. One contributor to this change has been resistance to the influence wielded by Robert Parker whom many blame for the shift toward big, fruit forward, alcoholic fruit bombs (Alice Feiring’s first book was grandiosely subtitled “How I saved the World from Parkerization”) by wine makers around the world who effectively styled their wines for his palate (and 90 plus scores). In my opinion, another factor is the increasing desire to drink wines with food and while the big tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon go swimmingly well with huge cuts of meet and fatty cheeses (fat and protein reduce the perception of tannins on the palate) the big wine tends to overwhelm many of lighter dishes, including those healthier ones that are increasingly being sought out as many people turn to healthier eating habits away from red meat and other fatty foods.

While my personal palate, together with much of the oenophilic world, has moved over the last few years away from Cabernet Sauvignon wines to drinking more Syrah, Cabernet Franc and other varietals, there are still many incredible Cabernet Sauvignon wines worthy of your attention and, given its proven aging capabilities, it is still the primary component of my cellar, promising years of pleasure ahead as the wines continue to age gracefully and mature to the perfection intended by the Cabernet Sauvignon (allowing me to store bottles from my children’s birth years for future important occasions). As every winery makes at least one Cabernet Sauvignon wine many of them incredible, it is far beyond the scope of this newsletter to even provide a respectable sampling of the varietal. Instead I have listed a few (maybe a bit more than a “few”) Cabernet Sauvignon wines I have recently enjoyed and which I think will bring you pleasure as well. As always, please feel free to shoot me an email with any questions about any specific wine, winery or other related topic.

Have a great week,
Yossie

Dalton, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Like Galil Mountain and Recanati, Dalton is simply put, a great winery making terrific wines at fair and reasonable prices. While I often wax rhapsodically about their delightful Wild Yeast Viognier, this wine is well deserving of my praise and your palate. While the 2009 is already on the market, this rich and complex wine has had sufficient time for the fruit, wood, tannin and oak parts to come together in the manner intended by Dalton’s wine maker – Naama Sorkin, and the wine is well worthy of your attention. Plenty of rich black fruit, cedar, hints of blueberries and milk chocolate on both the nose and palate of this full-bodied wine, tinged with green olives and eucalyptus, roasted herbs and a bit of smoke lead into a medium finish that leave you wondering where the bottle went. While delightful right now, the wine should continue to cellar nicely for another 4-5 years.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Single Vineyard, Elrom, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: The first release of the Elrom Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon began as a special release with the 2001 vintage but has since evolved into nearly yearly releases, as the Golan Heights Winery seemingly saturates the market with their Single Vineyard wines. However one may feel about this phenomenon, there is really no room for reservations with regard to anything coming out of the amazing Elrom vineyard and this wine is no exception – incredible. While I am not as convinced as others that every 2008 wine is an oenophilic fantasy, this wine comes pretty close. A big, rich and complex full-bodied wine that converts you to its charms the second it’s poured into your glass. Rich black fruits of blackberries, currents and sweet cherries together with gripping tannins, plenty of oak, cedar and crushed Mediterranean herbs on both the nose and palate leading into a long lingering finish of black fruit, a hint of spicy oak, chocolate and a tint of mint. With a round and mouth filling palate, this wine can actually be enjoyed now, however it would be a crime to do so as the amount of potential for growth in this wine is overwhelming and your cellaring patience will be rewarded in a few years as the various components of this wine continue to integrate and compliment each other. I’d wait at least 12-18 months before opening and would expect this wine to cellar for at least a decade.

Herzog, Haystack Peak Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: The last of the three musketeers among Herzog’s current single vineyard collection and my favorite of the three. Not as intense as the To-Kalon or mysterious as the Clone 6, but somewhere in between while still maintaining plenty of both with elegance and grace. A rich and medium to full-bodied wine with plums, cherries and blackberries which are matched with cigar leaf, pencil shavings and bittersweet chocolate with a pleasing overlay of not-overwhelming toasty oak. An ever-so-slightly minty finish tinged with vanilla that goes on for quite some time completes this wine. A wine to be enjoyed with like-minded folks and perfect right now with a few additional years of cellaring (if not improving) time ahead of it.

Psagot, Single Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: I am totally smitten with this winery which has continuously improved year over year since its founding, with the 2009 vintage being particularly fabulous. While a 2009 Single Vineyard wine was produced, the 2007 is the currently marketed vintage and is extremely enjoyable now that its been given some resting time presenting as an iron fist of power wrapped in a velvet glove of elegance. For those who care about scores, Mark Squires from the Wine Advocate gave the wine an 88 but in my opinion it deserves a much higher score. Inky black and full bodied, this wine is packed with black currents, cherries and other black forest fruits along with cedar box, sweet wood, espresso and hints of baker’s chocolate. Take it slowly with this wine as every 15-30 minutes in the glass we were rewarded with new and exciting layers that continued to reveal themselves over the course of a leisurely three hour exploration of this wine. Delightful right now with 4-5 years of additional cellaring time ahead of it.

Ramot Naftaly, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009: I was really excited to find Ramot Naftaly at the Sommelier exhibition as my planned visit to the winery had fallen through a few days earlier. Founded in 2003 by its owner and winemaker – Yitzchak Cohen, who was initially assisted by Tal Pelter (from the non-kosher Pelter winery) and whose daughter currently assists with the winemaking duties. The winery has been kosher since the 2009 vintage, and is currently producing approximately 10,000 bottles annually. The soft and medium bodied wine spent 12 months in oak and provides a nice nose of black currents, blackberries, a bit of cherry along with oak and noticeable herbs on the palate, accompanied by dark chocolate, tobacco leaf, a bit of tar and wood, with soft and well integrated tannins providing a pleasing backbone for this wine. As of now, this wine is only sold in Israel but is worth trying if you get the opportunity – at around 60 NIS (~$16), is a nice bargain. Enjoyable now and not for long-time cellaring, this wine should cellar for another 2-3 years at most.

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010: As the winery continues its move from California to the Rhone (i.e. from big fruit forward wines to elegant wines that match nicely with food and try to represent some of Israel’s unique terroir), they continue to be both a “Safe Bet Winery” and one that provides more “YH Best Buys” than almost any other, solidifying their position as one of the best QPR (quality to price ratio) wineries in Israel. An easy recommendation at approximately $12 a bottle this is an easy-drinking and approachable Cabernet Sauvignon wine with enough complexity to provide stimulation to the serious wine enthusiast. A medium to full-bodied wine with plenty of rich black fruit on the nose, tinged with slightly spicy wood and roasted nuts, that is accompanied on the palate with herbs, pungent earth and a finish of oak, a bit more black fruit and baker’s chocolate tinged with mint. Meant for early consumption, the wine will likely hold its own for a year or two of cellaring as well.

Segal, Unfiltered, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: An unbelievably delicious wine whose popularity and cult-like following has unfortunately succeeded in overshadowing many of Segal’s other great wines, including one of my favorites – the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the Dishon vineyard. That said, while the price point for this wine may be a bit excessive the adoration it garners is well deserved, especially if one exhibits a bit of restraint and patience. If you allow this wine some graceful cellaring time to mature and for the oak influence of 25 months of aging to recede a bit, you will be rewarded with nothing short of magnificence. Full bodied, with tons of black currents, cherries, sweet blackberry and a hint of juicy plum on the nose along with background noises of spicy oak, rich dark chocolate, all of which are enveloped with a good jolt of acid and tannin granting the wine the balance and structure to be a great wine. The palate contains more of the same with more oak, roasted Mediterranean herbs, a tinge of green and some warm spices leading into a fruit and dark chocolate laden finish with more crushed herbs and a pleasing bitterness lingering. While eminently drinkable now, I’d give this wine another year before letting it loose and it should cellar nicely for another 8 years or so, maybe longer.

#188 – September 27, 2011

Before I get into this week’s topic of sweet wines, I wanted to take the opportunity to wish you all a happy and sweet New Year, Shana Tova and best wishes for the coming year; may you, your families and loved ones all be blessed with all that you wish for (including a kosher Château d’Yquem)!

While last week’s newsletter included recommendations for good Moscato wines, this week I wanted to talk about the best of the best – true dessert wines, with levels of complexity and nuance, and plenty of cellaring ability. While there are some bargains listed below, their scarcity and the required effort to produce many of these wines combine to make them a tad more expensive than your traditional red or whites. However, I tend to use the various Jewish Holidays as a mini “Open That Bottle Night” (a once a year practice instituted by the Wall Street Journal’s wine columnists to provide wine collectors with an opportunity to open those special bottles that tend to collect dust in our cellars waiting for that perfect moment to open them), finding the combination of the New Year, traditionally family-centric gatherings and tons of good food, to be a great excuse to crack open those special (i.e. typically expensive) bottles. So dig deep in your cellar for those liquid gold treasures and enjoy!

Notwithstanding the increase over the last few years in the sophistication, range and availability of kosher wines that has given the kosher consumer French Bordeaux, Californian cult Cabernet Sauvignon, true Champagne (and many other-worldly, treats), one great wine seems unable to shake the age-old, pre-conceived notion that kosher wine is bad. Why don’t kosher dessert wines get any respect?

Part of the answer seems to derive from people’s stubborn association of kosher sweet wine with the likes of Manischewitz, Malaga or Bartanura’s infamously destructive blue-bottled Moscato D’Asti; as opposed to those delectably sweet yet sophisticated treats that contain enough acidity and depth to be enjoyed by the most sophisticated wine lover. As an added bonus, these are great wines to introduce non-wine drinkers to a more serious wine as they are both sweet and accessible. While we can only fantasize about a kosher Chateau d’Yquem, there are an increasing number of kosher dessert wines from around the world that are more than worthy of your attention, palate and dollars.

While all grapes contain sugar, the fermentation process undergone by the crushed grape juice as it converts to wine includes a process whereby most of the grape’s natural sugar is converted into alcohol. In order to create a sweet dessert with enough alcohol and acidity to keep the wine from becoming flabby, a wine maker has a number of methods available. All of these occur naturally but the wine maker also has a number of technological mechanics at his disposal to artificially recreate these natural occurrences under pristine conditions to best effect.

The common denominator for all these methods is that they increase the grape’s sugar levels by dehydrating the grape. The three most common methods are (i) leaving the grapes on the vines long past typical harvest (late-harvest wines), (ii) using frozen grapes (Icewine) or (iii) infecting the grapes with a fungus that sucks out the water (botrytis wines). An additional method involves fortifying the wine with additional alcohol during the fermentation process (thus stopping the fermentation of the remaining sugars) which gives us Port, and about which I have written previously in newsletter #124. I have briefly described these three methods below, and in honor of the Chag, provided tasting notes for some of my favorites in each category.

Of the three methodologies mentioned above, the easiest to produce are “late-harvest” wines. As may be inferred from their name, the sweetness in these wines is obtained by harvesting the grapes later than usual (usually early fall). At that point, the sugar level (or brix) is around 24-27% going up to 40% for some very late-harvested wines (the higher the brix, the sweeter the wine). Riesling is one of the most popular grapes used to make late-harvest wine, with good examples being the Teperberg Silver or Hagafen’s multiple late harvest White Riesling wines. Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer are two other popular grapes used for this purpose, with many of the Israeli versions utilizing Gewürztraminer as the preferred varietal.

Eiswein, or Icewine, is made from naturally or artificially frozen grapes. As the water in the grapes freezes, the sugars are concentrated in the remaining residue that is then pressed from the frozen grapes. This process results in significantly concentrated natural flavors and residual sugar. Unlike the Sauternes wines described below, grapes used to produce Icewine are typically botrytis-free, resulting in clean and pure fruit flavors with refreshing sweetness and tempering high acidity. Natural ice wines require a very cold freeze, which is sometimes governed by law (e.g. Canada requires -8C° or colder and Germany’s laws stipulate a freezing temperature of at least -7C°), and which must occur after the grapes are ripe. This means that the grapes may hang on the vines for several months following the normal harvest. As with most dessert wines, there is a risk involved (which, in addition to the lowered yield, is a substantial contributor to the higher prices for these wines). If the freeze does not come quickly enough, the grapes may rot and the crop will be lost. If the freeze is too severe, no juice can be extracted. As a result, natural harvests for ice wine are relatively rare (and very expensive). While in Austria, Germany and Canada, by law the freeze must occur naturally to be deemed ice wine, in many other countries (including Israel) cryoextraction (mechanical freezing) is used to simulate the effect of a freeze which allows the grapes to hang for far less extended periods. This is how Yarden’s Heightswine is made.

One of the most famous types of dessert wines is Sauternes which are grown in the Sauternes district of Graves in southern Bordeaux and primarily produced from the Sémillon grape. The most famous of these wines is Chateau d’Yquem (pronounced d’ee kem) which is the only wine Sauternes to receive the elite Premier Cru Supérieur classification and one of whose wines holds the current record for the most expensive single-bottle of white wine ever sold (a 1811 Château d’Yquem at $117,000). The most famous aspect of these wines is that they are infected with Botrytis Cinerea, a fungus also known as the “Noble Rot”. In addition to draining the water from the grape, the fungus adds a distinct character to the wine, resulting in flavors of honey, heather and sunshine. These wines are very labor intensive as the grapes are hand-picked, sometimes over a long period, in order to ensure that only infected grapes are selected and, as a result, yields are exceedingly low resulting in very expensive wines (d’Yquem wines from certain vintages can go for up to $10,000 a bottle). Part of d’Yquem’s greatness is its extreme longevity, as bottles from 1893 are supposedly drinking well and as they age, these wines grow deeper, darker and more mature. As a result, among kosher wines, Sauternes is one of your best bets for long-term cellaring (together with Yarden’s Katzrin wines). In Israel, botrytis is found only sporadically and was only used naturally once – in the near mythical Yarden Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc of 1988. I had the opportunity to taste this magnificent wine once, a number of years ago, and could never locate a bottle for sale (one was offered at the kosher wine auction last week with a ridiculous reserve price). Yarden’s Noble Semillon (tasting note below) is made by infecting the grapes with the botrytis fungus in a controlled indoor building within the winery. Many other wineries use small amounts of botrytis infected grapes in their late-harvest wines. In addition to those from Sauternes, some other known botrytis wines include those from Barsac or the Aszú wines of Tokaj Hungary. Sauternes is a founding member of the perfect food-pairing club, matching so well with foie gras that one can’t help but wonder why we bother eating anything else at all.

Below are a number of highly recommended wines made using the three various methodologies described above, all of which are classic choices to grace your Rosh Hashanah table. Given with their intense sweetness, typically higher price and appropriateness as a stand-alone dessert, these wines are regularly sold in half (i.e. 375 ml) or slightly larger (i.e. 500 ml) sized bottles.

Late-Harvest

Carmel, Single Vineyard – Sha’al, Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, 2009: One of the best valued Israeli dessert wines available (although this title is in contention with the recent price increase). An extremely well made wine with great balance between the sweetness and bracing acidity and a marked improvement over the already amazing 2006 vintage. While not a botrytis wine per se, approximately 20% of the grapes used in the wine were infected with the noble rot, giving it hints of heather and honey on the palate. Very concentrated with upfront sweetness, this one’s not afraid to come out swinging. You will find tingling spiciness and varietally typical litchi fruits on the nose and palate along with apricots, peaches and honeysuckle, with hints of honey and citrus on the lingering finish. A definite keeper that will cellar nicely for 8-10 years.

Binyamina, Reserve, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest Cluster Select, 2009: I first tasted the 2008 vintage of this wine while visiting Israel and loved it! I had the opportunity to taste the 2009 vintage at a recent tasting back in November held by the Israeli Economic Mission and was wowed by how different it was from the 2008 and by how much I liked it. Like Carmel’s Sha’al dessert wine, some (approximately 20%) of the grapes were infected with botrytis to great effect. A rich, ripe and luscious wine with plenty of apricots and dried fruit, some lychees, heather and honey all tempered by good acidity that kept the richness in check and brighten up the palate substantially. I haven’t yet seen it on sale in NYC, but will definitely load up on it when it appears – a highly recommended dessert wine and great alternative to the delicious Sha’al.

Hagafen, Prix Reserve, White Riesling, Rancho Wieruzowski, 2008: As with Hagafen’s late harvest Chardonnay reviewed previously, this wine retained some traditional varietal traits on its journey to sweetness. Plenty of tropical fruits including mango, apricots, limes and papaya, accompanied by slightly pungent notes and some typical petrol notes. With the traditional Riesling oily mouth-feel and loads of sugar, all on a solid acidic backbone with hints of minerals in the background. Notwithstanding the fact that the grapes were infected with some of the botrytis fungus, it was apparently not in sufficient quantities for them to fully impart their typical “funkiness”, as the wine shows little to none of the heather, spice and musk traditional to botrytis wines (the lack of which doesn’t diminish the pleasure this wine provides).

Herzog, Chenin Blanc, Late Harvest, Clarksburg, 2009: Herzog makes two well-priced and readily available dessert wines. While I prefer the Sauternes described below or the Israeli late-harvest wines, it’s purely a matter of personal preferences as this wine is delicious and well-worthy of your holiday desserts. A full bodied, deep rich wine, it is reminiscent of honey, making it the perfect Rosh Hashanah dessert wine. While the sweetness in this wine is pronounced, rich and warm, there is plenty of balancing acidity to keep the sugar in check. Dried apricots, mango and crème brûlée on the nose and palate, accompanied by almonds, red candied fruits and more honey on the mid-palate culminate in a long, lingering and viscous finish. With plenty of sweetness and less than 10% alcohol, this wine is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. Perfect with fresh fruits or as a dessert on its own. While this wine will keep for years, I don’t anticipate that it will improve much beyond where it currently is, making cellaring a moot point.

Herzog, White Riesling, Late Harvest, Monterey County, 2009: Herzog’s other dessert wine, this one partially comprised of botrytis infected grapes giving it some of that delightful musky funk and heather, typical to the fungus. Less heavy on the palate than the Chenin Blanc, but with plenty of sugary goodness and balancing acidity to make this wine a delight and perfect holiday treat. Notes of honeysuckle, pineapple, Meyer lemons, dried summer fruit and heather lead into a long lingering finish. As with most well made dessert wines, this will cellar nicely for at least another seven years or so.

Hagafen, Late Harvest, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: As with Hagafen’s other late-harvest attempt previously reviewed (the Rancho Wieruzowski White Riesling in newsletter #140), a marvelous specimen of late-harvested goodness and probably one of the best ones I have tasted (although I love the Binyamina). As with every successful dessert wine, the rich honeyed sweetness is perfectly balanced by gobs of balancing acidity that livens up the palate and keeps things interesting. Apricots, peaches, limes and grapefruit combine for a delightful nose, most of which continues on the palate joined by hints of honey and nuts. The relative blandness of the Sauvignon Blanc grape allows the richness to shine through in a wine with unexpected complexity and elegance.

Icewine

Hafner, Grüner Veltliner, Eiswein, 2002: While pretty tough to find, this is a delightful wine and one of the only true kosher icewines on the market. Made from the most common grape planted in Austria, this wine is a magnificent example of a true Eiswein and a delicious treat. Until the 1980’s, Grüner Veltliner wines were commercial wines sold by the bucket in Vienna’s mass-market food and wine joints. Despite their perceived lack of complexity, these wines paired brilliantly with all manner of dishes. Starting in the 1980’s, Grüner Veltliner wine underwent a revolution resulting from better care of the vineyards and using more modern winemaking methods, and started yielding wines that often attained excellence. Located not far from Vienna on the shores of Lake Neusiderle, Hafner produces a number of kosher wines, some excellent and some merely good. This wine falls squarely in the excellent category. Made in the traditional Eiswein manner, entirely from Gruner Veltliner grapes that were allowed to freeze on the vine. A very sweet wine blessed with ample acidity to keep the sugars in check. On both the nose and palate, dried summer fruits go nicely with typical spiciness. While properly cellared wines are most likely enjoyable for another 2-3 years, I’d drink any remaining bottles sooner than later as two recently tasted bottles weren’t in the best shape.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Heightswine, 2007: I love this wine which has been an annual and consistent hit for the Golan Heights Winery since the first year it was produced. The name “Heightswine” is a play on its origin (the Golan Heights) and production method (creating Icewine); as the winery utilized cryoextraction to manually freeze the grapes in the winery as opposed to the natural occurrence of such freezing in colder climates. A rich and satisfying dessert wine made from Gewürztraminer grapes, producing aromas and flavors of honey, apricots and other fresh summer fruits tinged with pleasant and not overwhelming spices, with a long caressing and slightly creamy finish. Well worth trying.

Botrytis

Château Piada, Sauternes, 2006: 2001 was a brilliant year for Sauternes, and for many years, the 2001 vintage of this wine was my go-to “special” dessert wine (until I was introduced to the fabulous (with a price tag to match) Chateau Guiraud listed below) and I was happy to lay my hands on a bottle of the 2006 vintage which is nearly as good. A deliciously sweet wine that caresses you at every turn. On both the nose and palate you get long lingering notes of dried apricots, sugared almonds, citrus and a slight hint of white chocolate all balanced by great structure and bracing acidity. An extremely long finish with the typical botrytised, honeyed toasted white bread flavor. Drinking amazingly well now, it should continue to cellar nicely for an additional 8-10 years.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Botrytis (Noble Semillon), 2005: Yarden’s top dessert wine is full bodied and layered, loaded with the deep honey flavors typical of botrytis, a spicy background to keep things interesting and packed with bracing acidity that keeps the abundant sweetness from overwhelming the palate. Good botrytis funk together with heather, honeysuckle, orange peel, lemon and subtle tropical fruit combine for a delightfully aromatic and rich wine all leading into a long lingering finish (helpful at a half-bottle size). As opposed to the other botrytis wines listed here which contracted the fungus naturally on the vine, this wine was manually infected in a controlled environment at the winery.

Chateau Guiraud, Sauternes 1er Cru, 2001: One of the best kosher Sauternes available and in my opinion, one of the best kosher dessert wines out there period! This dark, honey colored wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of peaches, apricot, apples, limes, clementines, all with a botrytis honeyed background and a tingling spiciness. Relatively thick on the tongue but in no way flabby and with a long lingering finish, this is a treat to be savored, as every sip will make you jump for joy as layer after layer of flavor presents itself. At its prime now, this wine should cellar nicely for another ten years at least. For some reason, the 1999 vintage is easier found and is a-l-m-o-s-t as good.

Chateau de Fesles, Bonnezeaux, 1997: In addition to the dessert wines from the famed Sauternes and Barsac regions, wines from Bonnezeaux can produce magnificent specimens of botrytis wines as well. This sensuous wine from the Layon Valley is more intensely sweet than typical Sauternes like the Guiraud above, but contains plenty of bracing acidity to rein in the abundant sweetness. Wonderful notes of nectarines, pineapple, white peaches, vanilla and honey along with hints of licorice. An awesome match to some of my all time favorite foods – foie gras, fruit tarts, salty cheeses or duck à l’Orange. Delicious now, I’d drink any remaining bottles in the next 2-3 years, as it probably doesn’t have much more peak cellaring time left.

Older Notes (as of April 30, 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Noble Semillon, 2004: Yarden’s top dessert wine is a full bodied powerhouse loaded with the deep honey flavors typical of Botrytis with a slightly spicy background to keep things interesting. As opposed to the other Botrytis wines listed which contracted the fungus naturally on the vine; this wine was manually infected in a controlled environment at the winery. Typical flavors of honeysuckle along with aromas and flavors on citrus, peach, melon and even some pineapple combine to make this wine a deeply satisfying experience from start through the long, lingering finish.

Langer, Tokaj, Aszú, 5 Puttonyos, 1998: When compared to other Botrytis wines, one can easily discern a different style. Currently in its prime, this wine is drinking beautifully with dried apricots, citrus peel, ripe honeydew and honeysuckle combining with cloves and other spices. Less elegant a wine than the Yarden noted below, but with a long and lingering honey finish that makes this one a wine to remember.

Hagafen, Prix Vineyards, Late Harvest Chardonnay, 2006: A product of Hagafen’s “Prix” wine club, this wine is simply amazing!! A very dark golden colored, full-bodied wine made from Chardonnay grapes with Botrytis elements felt throughout this wine. Very sweet but with enough acidity to keep the sweetness (resulting from 18% brix) from overpowering the wine and its aromas and flavors. On the nose citrus, apple orchards wet from summer rain and hints of caramel, spices and vanilla which follow through onto a delightful palate of sugar, more apples and limes all with intense hints of heathery Botrytis onto the long finish. The wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar for at least another 4-5 years.

It’s been an exciting summer for Leket Israel. The 2011 “Presidential Citation” was recently presented to Leket Israel’s Founder and Chairman, Joseph Gitler, during a ceremony held in early July at the Israeli President’s residence in Jerusalem. The award is the highest honor an Israeli charity can receive. To date, Project Leket (gleaning) has rescued 60 different types of produce from over 1,000 fields throughout Israel—including three million potatoes from one farmer, to be distributed for Rosh Hashanah. Tons of other food items and some 6,000 healthy holiday food packages will also be distributed in time for the holiday. Your support will enable needy Israelis to have sweeter New Year than they would have without Leket Israel.

While Israel doesn’t yet have a controlled appellation system similar to that used in major grape-growing countries around the world such as Italy and France, there are currently five recognized grape growing regions in Israel which include the Galil (Galilee), Shomron (Samaria), Shimshon (Samson), Jerusalem Mountains (Judean Hills) and the Negev Dessert. For many years, the Golan Heights (included as part of the Galilee appellation) was the main source for premium grapes which yielded Israel’s best wines but beginning in the mid- 1990s, vineyards planted in the high-altitude and relatively chilly Jerusalem Mountains started to yield top notch stuff. Leket Israel delivers tons of nutritious rescued meals, manufactured goods and produce to worthy nonprofit organizations in the Jerusalem area at least twice a week , so for our Rosh Hashanah shipment, we have included four wines from wineries in the region (while the new boutique winery 1848 is located in the Jerusalem Mountains and sources much of its grapes there as well, the grapes for the Cabernet Sauvignon included in this shipment were actually from vineyards in the Upper Galilee).

Among the many wineries located in this expanded appellation are some of the countries best and most exciting medium and small wineries including the kosher Castel, Agur, Ella Valley, Bustan, Bravdo and Flam with the non-kosher Clos de Gat, Pelter and Sea Horse being located in this appellation as well. Located in relative close proximity to one another, many of them quite beautiful in their own right and surrounded by breathtaking scenery, the area is developing into quite a route de vins (Wine Route), well worthy of multiple visits.

1848

With many new wineries cropping up in Israel on a near-weekly basis quickly returning to relative obscurity due to mediocrity (or worse), it is always a pleasure to find first releases from new wineries being well-worthy of our attention and 1848 is exactly such a winery. As may be deduced from the name, the winery draws on over 160 years of the Shor family’s winemaking experience, first utilized in 1848 with the opening of Israel’s first commercial winery in the Old City of Jerusalem. First known as the Zion Winery, the winery produced mainly sacramental wine for most of its existence, only recently expanding into quality table wine. The winery was first located so close to the Western Wall that the large oak barrels were visible to the Kotel’s worshipers. During the British Mandate, the winery was forced to relocate a number of times and only recently settled in its current home of Mishor Adomim.

With three other wineries under their belt (Zion, Arza and HaCormim), the addition of 1848 comes with little surprise but much pleasure. Owned by Yossi Shor with his brother Tzvika as the winemaker, after eight generations of wine making, the family has picked up a few tricks of the trade, evident in this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon release. Located just outside Jerusalem and utilizing grapes grown from Tel Shachar, the winery qualifies as a Jerusalem Hills winery, even if the grapes from this particular wine were sourced from Har Tabor in the Galil. The winery has two other wines on the market in addition to the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve provided in his shipment, a 2009 Chardonnay and a 2006 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

1848 Winery, Reserve, 2007: A full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 10% Merlot and 3% Petite Sirah which spent 25 months in French Oak. Despite the long cellaring time, the wine is remarkably lacking the heavy wood one would expect and presents, after 15 minutes or so in your glass, with a nice nose of blackberries, currants, lavender, cherries and plums with hints of smoky oak on both the nose and palate where hints of Mediterranean herbs, cracked black pepper and raspberries make themselves felt on a solid backbone of well integrated tannins and more wood and a medium finish with some earth and tobacco. A respectable 13.9% alcohol and only 6,725 bottles produced, I look forward to the winery’s next released vintage.

Ella Valley

While, from an historical point of view, the aesthetically stunning Ella Valley is primarily known for the monumental showdown between David and Goliath, housing the Ella Valley winery is nearly as great a claim to fame. From day one this winery knew what it wanted to be – the very best in Israel producing high-quality, unique wines. The first vineyards were very carefully planted in 1997 after extensive research as to best location and plots of land and used techniques imported from Napa Valley. To quote the late Daniel Rogov, Ella Valley “has vineyards that might well serve as a model of efficiency and beauty anywhere in the world”. The winery was built in 2001 and is located on Kibbutz Netiv Halamed Hey in the Judean Hills in close proximity to their 800 dunams of vineyard, far more than they currently need resulting in Ella Valley keeping the best third of their grapes and selling the others to many of the other, local wineries.

The first vintage was in 2002 and despite it being a relatively poor vintage year in Israel their first offerings were a resounding success. Starting with the 2003 vintage the winery created its reserve series – Vineyard’s Choice, and is currently producing excellent wines in three series: Vineyard’s Choice, Ella Valley and Ever Red. The Ella Valley wines are always great and their regular series is very well priced making it an extremely under valued winery. Unfortunately they are not as well known as some other wineries, both as a result of their size and their distribution process, which is truly a crying shame as they produce some of the best and most interesting wines out there and are well worth your time, effort, palate and wallet.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2007: Obviously no winery could contend for a favorite of mine if they didn’t produce a rockin’ Cabernet Franc (my favorite varietal), and Ella Valley comes through wonderfully on this front. Classic aromas of blackberries, raspberries, tobacco leaf (delightfully pleasant whether you are a smoker or not) and those lovely green vegetal notes so characteristic to the grape on the nose with a palate packed with juicy fresh blackberries and tangy raspberries melded nicely with velvety tannins and wood leading to a long and mouth filling finish with more of the fruits together with wild anise, forest floor and espresso. With a Cabernet Franc this delightful, I can only hope and dream that the winery will produce a top shelf version for their Vineyard’s Choice series.

Psagot

After growing grapes for other wineries for a few years, Yaakov Berg founded Psagot in 2002, located in the Northern Jerusalem Mountains. Berg professes a deep commitment to and bond with the land and even lives in the midst of his vineyards in an ancient rail car. Since I first wrote about the winery in 2006, the quality and consistency of the winery has exploded over the past few years, with the 2009 vintage being a prime example and this Merlot a worthy bearer of the Psagot name. During the winery’s construction a cave was discovered underneath the vineyards and, once excavated, turned out to contain an ancient wine press dating back to the Second Temple. Today the cave serves as a majestic barrel room where Psagot’s wines age gracefully in near perfect natural conditions (the cooling system is rarely used – temperature remains constant – between 12 C in the winter to 18 C in the summer – with humidity at 90%). The cave houses the modern stainless steel tanks and other winemaking equipment making for an interesting juxtaposition of ancient and modern winemaking facilities housed under the vineyards, arduously planted in rocky limestone.

The winery produces a flagship Bordeaux blend named Edom and regular varietal wines in the Psagot series. For the 2007 vintage, the winery also produced an incredible single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier and Chardonnay but skipped some vintages in which they did not produce the Chardonnay and Viognier. While they own a significant amount of the sourcing vineyards, they also rely on grapes from the local Dolev and Har-Bracha vineyards. Production from the 2008 (Shmittah) vintage was of about 80,000 bottles and for the 2009 vintage, approximately 90,000 bottles.

Psagot, Merlot, 2009: A medium bodied with well-integrated tannins making for a delicious, round and slightly earthy wine. Plenty of raspberry, cherry and red plums tinged with subdued white pepper, leather and some cedar wood. Some chocolate and spicy wood creeps in on the mid palate leading into a round and mouth filling finish with some more fruit, earth and dark chocolate. Delicious right now, the wine should cellar nicely for four years or more.

Yatir

One of my favorite wineries, which consistently produces excellent wines, Yatir is located in the south of Israel at the tip of the Judean Hills, in an area with a history of wine-making dating back over 2500 years. Founded in 2000 as a joint venture between the Carmel Winery and a number of regional winegrowers, this was one of the first kosher boutique wineries to produce spectacular wine which could compete with the then king of Israeli boutique wineries – the non-kosher Margalit Winery. Head winemaker Eran Goldwasser is assisted by the winery’s manager, Yonatan Ben Dor, and all the wines they have produced to date have been magnificent – truly a tough feat for any winery.

For many years, the only wines produced by Yatir were the Forest (Ya’ar Yatir) and a delicious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. In 2004, Yatir introduced an incredible Sauvignon Blanc that became an instant hit and the following year introduced a single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and a Shiraz that were just as successful. 2006 brought another major hit with a varietal Viognier (included in this shipment). After this long string of amazing wines, I can only hope that Eran will take some of his Cabernet Franc currently used for blending to make a new single varietal out of my favorite varietal – Cabernet Franc.

Yatir, Viognier, 2009: I love Israeli Viognier which has a personality all of its own with somewhat atypical creamy notes. While I can only hope and pray for a kosher Condrieu to come my way, for now I am happy to make do with this wine along with the Viognier offerings of Yarden and Dalton. Following the worldwide trend of unoaked wines that has happily ensconced itself in Israel, this wine was not aged in oak, resulting in fruit and floral aromas that quite literally burst out of the glass as soon as the cork pops. The promise of all that deliciousness lingers on a palate loaded with tropical fruits and citrus and curbed by generous acidity that keeps all the fruit nicely in check.

At the inaugural wine dinner for the Leket Wine Club, we had a number of great wines, including the top-tier “Rom” blend from the Golan Heights Winery and many wines not currently available in the United States. Listed below are my published notes for a number of the wines served at the dinner (additional notes will be posted as they are transcribed from my tasting book scribblings):

Bashan, Eitan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009: A medium bodied wine that, once it had about 30 minutes in my glass, opened up into an easy drinking wine with sufficient sophistication and depth to warrant my attention. Nice black fruit on both the nose and palate with a pleasurable “dusty” or earthy overtone and hints of spicy oak. A medium finish with hints of mint and tobacco leaf rounded out a delightful drinking experience.

Bashan, Nave, 2009: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that spent over a year in oak resulting in soft and well integrated tannins that provided a round and mouth filling sensation on first attack. Give this wine some time to open up in your glass and you will delight in the blackberries, dark plums and currants surrounded by rich back earth, sweet, Mediterranean herbs and slightly spicy wood all leading into and continuing with a medium to long finish that encourages another sip (again and again).

Binyamina, Reserve, Shiraz, 2007: As I have written before, I find myself drinking a lot of Syrah recently and think Israel is doing a really great job with the grape. It’s still a little unclear to me the direction in which Israel will end up with this varietal, but it’s a great adventure with more and more quality Syrah wines are being produced. Syrah is also a primary component in many of the Super-Israelis like the recently released Rom. A wine that is easy to drink right out of the bottle with a medium body and soft tannins beautifully integrated with blackberries, black cherries and some cassis along with some leather and hints of smoked meat. A medium finish with more fruit and leather rounds out this smooth and mouth filling wine.

Carmel, Appellation, Carignan, 2007: The Carignan grape was probably a significant contributor to Carmel’s prior horrific reputation for terrible wines given that it was a major component in cheaper and unappealing wines. This wine really puts the much maligned grape in a whole new (favorable) light. Using grapes from 40 year old vines and blended with some Petit Verdot for good measure, this wine has great fruit and is slightly spicy with hints of espresso and a nice finish. Not many folks do well by this grape but Carmel certainly does.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc De Blancs, 2005: Fortunately this wine finally made it to our shores as it is easily a YH Best Buy and the best substitute for true kosher Champagne at a much lower price. After successive (and successful) releases in 1998, 1999 and 2000, the last marketed vintage of this wine was the delicious 2001 vintage. I am not sure why they waited four years to make another, but am happy they finally did!. I have also heard rumors of a late disgorged 2000 version which I’d love to lay my hands on and compare with my last remaining bottle of “regular” 2000, so if anyone has any info on that, please let me know. If I needed to sum up this wine in one word it would be an easy task (even for me) – delicious. Grapefruit, lime, apple, melon and hints of pineapple abound in this delicious wine which is bone dry and loaded with crisp acidity. Toasted yeasty brioche and sharp, long-lasting bubbles make this wine a delight and an awesome match with almost any dish you care to throw its way. Stock up while you can since, at around $20 a bottle, it won’t be around for long.

On September 22nd, 2011, I attended the world’s first kosher wine auction conducted by renowned Judaica Auction House – Kestenbaum & Company. I had previously expressed reservations about the high estimates placed on a majority of the lots and the remaining life in many of the bottles. For some background on the auction and to view the entire auction catalog, click here.

While I wouldn’t characterize the auction as a rousing success, I was happy to attend and found it to be an interesting and fun experience. A few notes, thoughts and comments as follows:

I thought the attendance was pretty low. Excluding involved parties, I’d guess there were about 40-50 people there max, but there were a bunch of folks who came late and stood in the back so it was hard to tell. Additionally, most people were not bidding. I’d guess about 10 true participants (although it appeared that they had a number of mailed-in bids for several of the lots). Based on my notes about 30 of 127 lots sold, but I may be off by a lot here or there.

With literally 2-3 exceptions, every wine sold below the low-end of the estimate (the purchase above the lowest estimate was mine), with Covenant, Katzrin, El-Rom and other wines from the Golan Heights Winery being the bigger “winners” on that front (which is understandable given their proven aging ability). There were a few “deals” (Carmel LE Vertical, 98 Yarden Cab Magnum, 2004 Prix Mélange, Double Magnum Herzog Cab) or “finds” (one of 6 Covenant Solomon 08 Magnums) to be had but not many.

For the most part, the older vintage Herzog, Capcanes and French (with a few exceptions for the marquee names) wines did not sell.

In my opinion, there are a number of ways that future auctions can be improved as follows:

In my opinion the auction suffered from a few flaws that should be addressed before the next attempt in order to better facilitate excitement, participation and sales. Price was definitely a major factor here with the estimates, reserves and opening bids all being excessively high. Especially for a first go-around, where I would have thought the goal was to generate buzz, hype and sales to encourage folks to participate in future auctions, I’d have thought having (at the very least) lower opening bids. That said, it’s obviously a business decision and I know very little about how the auction world goes. An additional problem is that, given the relative infancy of the premium cellarable kosher wine market, many of the wines are still “available” on the market, in one way or another for lower prices (“gray market”, the wineries themselves, certain retailers, etc.), especially once you factor in the buyer’s premium.

Another area of improvement would be on presentation. Most participants were likely first time auction-participants (at least to wine auctions), and it might make sense to have a brief explanation on how the auction process works. Going a little slower might have increased participation – I spoke to a few people who wanted to bid on one lot or another and simply couldn’t keep up. Obviously auctions go fast and this was professionally run but, given the special circumstances and the first attempt, bringing it down a notch might have made sense and I am sure it could be done without hurting the auction house’s sensibilities and standards.

While the auctioneer was clearly a professional, he didn’t seem to know much about the wines and didn’t (or wasn’t able) to provide any real information about the wines being offered (other than trying to read off the catalog) which prevented him from generating some hype on the true collector items (e.g. the Gamla 88 Botrytis as the only “true” Israeli Botrytis wine).

All in all, I’d happily go to the next one and am sure the organizers will learn from this one and improve.

#185 – September 8, 2011

A grape native to France’s Rhône Valley, I believe this varietal has great potential to be among those most appropriate to showcase Israel’s unique terroir (in my opinion, Grenache and Cabernet Franc also top that list of potentials). However, as Syrah continues to make inroads within the Israeli market, sales of California Syrah in the United States have crashed and burned, dashing the hopes of many for the varietal to become the US’s next big thing. While I am not yet ready to write off Californian Syrah, especially given the incredible kosher ones gifted to us by micro producers like Shirah Wine and Brobdignanian, I would posit that the downfall being discussed by many in the wine industry is somewhat attributable to the consumer’s shift away from “Parkerized’ wines (i.e. big, oaky fruit bombs) to more elegant, subtle and savory wines (i.e. leaner wines with higher acid and more earth, leather, graphite, minerals and herbs). This shift is not particular to the noble Syrah varietal, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have also been affected in the same manner.

Another possible reason for consumers’ lack of interest in Syrah is confusion. As you already know, Syrah is also referred to as Shiraz (they are not variations of the same grape – they are exactly the same grape). The grape is widely planted around the world, perhaps most prominently in its indigenous Rhône Valley in France and Australia, but also in California, South Africa and Israel as well as many other countries around the world. The wines of the Rhône valley are split between the more expensive, straight varietal Syrah wines from the Northern Rhône (where only Syrah can be planted) which is a bit cooler, and the typical Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre blends from the Southern Rhône which are typical cheaper (excluding wines of the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape region), more approachable and “riper” due to the slightly warmer climate.

As a general rule, the varietal is known as Syrah in the Rhône Valley and Shiraz in Australia, but the choice of name in most other countries, including Israel, is somewhat less regimented. In many instances the name is derived from the vine clone used – wines grown from Australian clones are typically labeled “Shiraz” and wines produced from Rhône-based clones will be labeled “Syrah”, with both clones utilized in Israeli vineyards.

Adding to the confusion is another determining factor in the name application – style. Winemakers tend to use Syrah for Rhône-like red wines – where grace, elegance, smoke, minerals, grilled meat and floral notes tend to dominate; and Shiraz for typical Australian-like wines – big, bold, fruity and spicier with higher alcohol and plenty of pepper, leaving a slightly sweet (jammy) impression. Notwithstanding the above, unlike other aspects of wine labeling that are strictly and uniformly applied, the use of Syrah versus Shiraz is relatively arbitrary and each winemaker/winery uses it differently. The type of wood barrels used and the length of time spent in them heavily contribute to the characteristics of the particular wine as well further muddying the waters. With so many different types of Syrah being produced, the consumer has no clear path to determine what type of wine will be in the bottle of Syrah/Shiraz he is purchasing, leaving him to go with grape varietals that are at least slightly more conforming like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and even Moscato (which seems to be undergoing a revival, at least somewhat due to Hip Hop but more on that at a later date). As an aside, the split between these two types of wine showcases Eric Asimov’s recent hypothesis that most wines can be categorized for the consumer as savory or sweet.

Given the prominence of Syrah from the Rhône Valley and Shiraz from Australia, it’s unfortunate that no great kosher versions exist from either country (there are plenty of offerings, some drinkable, mostly drek but definitely nothing great). Happily Israel and California have worked hard to provide us with some delicious versions of the grape, many of which are reviewed below. As you will note from the various Shiraz and Syrah wines listed below, many of the Israeli versions seem to be a good mixture of Syrah and Shiraz styles, taking the good from both and creating big juicy wines that are somewhat restrained with plenty of elegance and spice. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

Shiraz

Karmei Yosef (Bravdo), Shiraz, 2009: Given my admiration for this winery, I was delighted when their wines were finally imported into the United States and they introduced a delightful blend called “Coupage”. As with the 2007 vintage I previously reviewed, this is a full bodied wine with distinct Shiraz personality and a hint of the Mediterranean terroir of its birthplace. A big, intense and brambly wine, consistent with its Shiraz name, with muscular tannins and ample, slightly spicy, wood matched nicely by blackberries, cassis and juicy plums on both the nose and palate, together with Mediterranean herbs and hints of cigar-box cedar. A great wine right now, but give this one another year or so in the bottle and you will be rewarded by a smoother and more grown up wine. A definite keeper and happily decently priced (unlike many other recent boutiquey arrivals on our shores).

Binyamina, Reserve, Shiraz, 2007: A wine that is easy to drink right out of the bottle with a medium body and soft tannins beautifully integrated with blackberries, black cherries and some cassis along with some leather and hints of smoked meat. A medium finish with more fruit and leather rounds out this smooth and mouth filling wine.

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2006: As I have written in the past, Carmel really struck gold with this vineyard which has consistently provided them with rich and complex Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz wines. A deep and intense wine with plenty of black fruit, spicy oak and notes of lead pencil accompanied by mouth coating tannins that are so well integrated they are almost unnoticeable until the wine is gone. A nice long finish with more black fruit, tobacco and a hint of chocolate rounds out this delightful wine that will continue to develop for another few years.

Dalton, Shiraz, Estate, 2009: Dalton is one of the Israeli wineries that produce both a Syrah (in its Reserve line) and this Shiraz, showcasing the winemaker’s abilities to coax different characteristics out of the same varietal with great success. A medium bodied wine with smooth and well integrated tannins providing the backbone for brambly black fruit, spicy wood, hints of almonds with mid palate additions of cedar, earth and hints of smoke. A bold wine that I enjoyed more on its own than with food.

Syrah

Shirah, Power to the People, Syrah, 2009: Another hit from the Weiss brothers. If it is really true that many people select their wines solely based on the label – the future is bright for them as they have the most awesome wine labels of any kosher wine. Following closely on their One Two Punch and Syraph wines, the black velvet label is simply gorgeous. Luckily for us, at least in this instance you can judge a wine by its label, as the contents are well-worthy of the awesome label. The 2% of Viognier with which this wine was blended (and fermented) shines through far more than one would expect for 2%, as initially the nose and palate were dominated by peach, apricot and guava flavors and was almost medium bodied (far from what was expected after the blockbuster Syraph). After half an hour or so, the delicious California Syrah reared its beautiful head and rewarded us with plums, cherries and a hint of ripe raspberry accompanied by plenty of smoky wood, some warm spice, dark chocolate, anise all wrapped in well integrated tannins and delivering a round, mouth filling and delicious wine with a medium cigar and chocolate finish with a minty tang. Not a typical Syrah but a great drinking experience (available directly from the winery) and a wine that should cellar comfortably for at least five years if not longer (and will continue to develop for at least a few more coming together perfectly over the years).

Ella Valley, Syrah, 2007: As I have mentioned before, I really love the wines from this great and under appreciated (thus well-priced) winery (their Cabernet Franc in particular is to die for). A wine that can be enjoyed on its own or with food although I prefer it with food. A medium to full bodied intense wine loaded with blackberries, plums, currants and raspberries on the nose with additional hints of bitter citrus peel and earthiness added on the palate. An incredible depth of flavor and nuance throughout with slightly spicy oak, asphalt and more black fruit on the mid palate, leading into a long finish of black forest fruit, graphite and more dark chocolate. While I don’t see the wine getting any better with age it will easily keep for another year or two.

Yarden, Syrah, Yonatan Vineyard, 2007: Having nothing to do with my natural affinity for a vineyard named after my oldest son, the Yonatan vineyard seems to have been blessed with the same pixie dust that targeted Carmel’s Kayoumi vineyard and is on track to overtake the Elrom vineyard as one of Israel’s best. While the Golan Heights Winery seems to have saturated itself with their single vineyard wines, it’s tough to argue with success, especially in the Syrah arena. While I have never really liked their “regular” Yarden Syrah (and still don’t), their single vineyard Syrah wines have been fantastic (I have written often about the incredible 2004 Ortal Syrah). A rich and concentrated wine with plenty of wood and extracted fruit, in the style we have come to expect from this series but with the elegance and balance of power that accompanies most of these wines as well. Generous tannins provide a solid backbone for cherries, plums, raspberries on the nose, together with kirsch liquor and a spicy bite from the oak. On the mid-palate a touch of savory notes creep in with wet forest earth and hints (forgive me) sweaty leather (in a good way – I promise). While a delicious wine and incredible drinking experience, I got the feeling of a wine that was searching for a path, finding itself locked between Syrah and Shiraz influences so I’d give this one a year or two before opening at which point it should cellar for another five years at least.

NOTE: This is from newsletter #184, written a week before he passed away (and communicated privately to him as well).

Finally, the event that will most likely have the most impact relates to Daniel Rogov, Israel’s undisputed top wine & food critic, for whom a tribute dinner was held this past week in Israel. The catalyst for the event was Rogov’s recent illness, that has precluded him from maintaining his breakneck pace of tasting and evaluating over 1,000 wines a month in addition to authoring his annual wine guides and multiple columns and other publications and maintaining his wine forum – an invaluable source of information for the kosher wine world and one that I often frequent. While the nature of his illness and its impact are not widely known, it has forced him to significantly slow down. While Rogov has more than his fair share of critics (as anyone at the top of his profession is prone to), his contributions to the Israeli (and kosher) wine industry are unparalleled and indisputable. For decades he has written and educated the Israeli and kosher wine aficionado masses on wine, long before they were interested in it, helping to elevate the country’s wine appreciation to today’s respectable levels. He has also been a tireless promoter of Israeli wines around the world, making a substantial contribution to their relatively newfound recognizance and prominence around the world. Rogov has also maintained the aforementioned wine forum of which I have been a participant for over eight years (both in its prior incarnation (that I preferred) and its current one) in which he has responded nearly immediately to any and every question posed there on wine related topics. He also managed to maintain a blessed air of civility even when conversations grew quite heated on non-directly wine-related topics including politics and religion. This was nearly always done with professionalism, a delightful acerbic wit and good humor, touched by his personal trademark of gentlemanly curmudgeonliness.

On a personal note, I have learned a ton from Rogov and benefited from his generous impartation of wine-related knowledge, both on his forum and via personal communication. I was unfortunately unable to attend the evening, but I decided to honor Rogov with a bottle of special Israeli wine and a good steak – two of his favorite things (most of his other favorites are decidedly non-kosher). The wine I choose was the Katzrin 1990 from the Golan Heights Winery, the oldest living kosher wine today and easily one of the best, a fitting form of tribute in my opinion to one whose age remains a mystery and whose contributions to Israeli wine are near mythical. I have included my notes on this near-mythical bottle of wine below.

As mentioned in my recent newsletter, Mike Steinberger wrote a three-piece article about wine tasting, its profound subjectivity and some of the science behind different folks’ ability to taste. Definitely a well-researched and thought-provoking article that is well worth your time. After reading it, I felt justified in the importance I have always placed on servicing your own palate (as opposed to any particular writer or critic, or worse, public opinion) and finding a wine writer or critic whose palate matched your own as opposed to the most prominent ones (i.e. if you prefer refined and restrained wines to oaked fruit bombs, following Robert Parker’s recommendations might not be the best of ideas). I have always considered myself lucky that for the most part, I agree with the majority of Daniel Rogov’s recommendations, which has helped me discover many new wineries and wines, long before they made it to the mainstream.