Yossie's Corkboard

#134 – July 8, 2010

Last night was a rare night in which I commuted home via subway, which necessitated descending into the pits of Hell – otherwise known as a New York City subway platform – where the combination of heat and humidity can drive temperatures over 100F and a man insane. Given the recent heat wave Manhattan has been experiencing with over three straight days of over 100F weather, “pits of Hell” is a most appropriate description. As I slowly melted into a puddle of nothingness I tried to preoccupy myself with various cooling methodologies that I might employ upon my arrival at home. Interestingly enough the first thing to pop into my head was not crawling into an ice-bath but rather a well-chilled glass of sensually aromatic and tremendously juicy Viognier. This thought provided both the title and topic for this week’s newsletter as legend has it, that Viognier is derived from the Roman pronunciation of “the road to Hell”; probably a reference to the extreme difficulty in cultivating and growing it.

Notwithstanding the fact that Viognier had been growing in the Northern Rhône for over 2000 years, during the late 1960’s it was well on its way to becoming an extinct varietal with less than 30 acres planted in all of France. Since then Viognier has benefited from increasing popularity and gradual increased planting in France, Australia the United States and elsewhere around the world with over 2500 acres of Viognier planted in California alone.

Initially Viognier was used as a blending agent but it is increasingly showing up as an independent varietal. It is the only allowed varietal in two Rhône appellations – Condrieu and Château Grillit (which is a tiny, 10 acre vineyard with one owner) which are supposed to produce the world’s best representations of the grape and of which there are unfortunately, no kosher versions. However the first kosher Viognier was produced by the Golan Heights Winery in 2004 under their Yarden label and since then Viognier has benefited from increasing popularity, as many additional Israeli wineries have thrown their hat in the ring. Given that Viognier vines really only hit their stride after 10-15 years and are at their best after 20 years or so, the best Israeli Viogniers are still to come as the vineyards mature and continue to develop – this should provide us all with a great journey to relish and enjoy.

As its etymology indicates, Viognier is a difficult grape to grow which is for a number of reasons. It is very prone to rotting mildew and produces very low yields, tends to develop high sugar and low acidity which can result in flat wines devoid of character. Another issue is that in order to obtain the delightful aromas for which it is so well know it has to be harvested when relatively ripe, which, in addition to the inherent difficulty in timing the harvest just right, typically results in a relatively high level of alcohol that, unless extreme care and skill is exercised in production, can result in unpleasant “hotness”. On the flip-side, most Viognier wines have relatively low acidity freeing them from needing oak aging yet still providing a full-bodied wine similar to Chardonnay (although a light oak hand can enhance the flavor and creaminess for which the varietal is known). Some Israeli wineries (together with other New World producers) will stir the wine’s lees in an attempt to increase the wine’s acidity.

Viognier wines are well-known for their heady perfume that jumps out of the bottle and engulfs you in fresh juicy goodness. Typical notes include blooming orange, acacia or other flowers, apricots, peaches, honey, spices and a creamy mouth-feel that, when well-made, can be extremely pleasant. The intense sweet-like aromas can lead you to expect a sweet or semi-sweet wine but most Viogniers are crisply dry (but relatively low in acidity). There are some late-harvest Viognier wines being made but, to the best of my knowledge, no kosher versions. Hopefully one will surface since, given the grape’s characteristics, this could potentially produce an amazing dessert wine.

As I mentioned, Viognier has long been used as a blending agent bringing its special characteristics to other wines – both red and white (especially Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Columbard). Given its strong personality, even a small percentage can have a significant effect. One counter-intuitive benefit from blending Viognier with red wines is that it assists in stabilizing and enhancing the red color by virtue of co-pigmentation. One of the most common blendings is the addition of between 1-7% of Viognier to Syrah which is the traditional style of Côte-Rôtie in Northern Rhône. Australian Shiraz producers have also started to add up to 4% of Viognier to their Shiraz which enhances the wine with notes of apricot. The Shiraz of both Dalton and Binyamina (in their Hachoshen series) are Israeli examples of Shiraz blended with Viognier

Given the low-acidity and robust flavors Viognier isn’t the easiest wine to match as you need to be careful not to overwhelm more delicate foods. I love it with sashimi and many Gewürztraminer matches, such as spicy foods, strong salty cheeses and other strongly flavored meat or fish dishes; but it is also highly enjoyable on its own as I did last night to beat the wilting heat and humidity into submission.

I have listed a few tasting notes for some of my favorite Viognier wines below but I note that the majority are of the 2007 vintage given that 2008 was a Shmittah year, and almost no Israeli wines of that vintage were imported, and the 2009 wines are not yet readily available. Many additional Israeli wineries are producing Viognier including Carmel (under its Appellation label which I reviewed a while back), Tabor (its 2008 was amazing) and Yatir (who has yet to make a wine that disappoints me). As with almost every white (or Rosé) wine, the best vintage is the most recent one (most Viognier wines will lose their fresh aromas after three years turning flat on the nose and losing much of their appeal), so I would seek out and eagerly anticipate the appearance on your local shelves of the 2009 vintage of these wines.

Goose Bay Viognier 2007: While I feel that the Goose Bay wines have significantly deteriorated in the past couple years both in quality and value, this wine is very enjoyable. As with the Yarden below it took some serious swirling to get this wine to open up but I was rewarded with the typical fruit and flower aromas of a Viognier along with grapefruits, green apple and guava. A nice balance of fruit and acidity makes this a better food pairing than I would have expected.
Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Viognier, 2007: The first kosher Viognier will always have a special place in my heart as it was responsible for introducing me to its creamy goodness. When first removed from my wine fridge the nose seemed a little flat but it rapidly warmed up and exploded into an array of cantaloupe, limes, orange blossoms and violets, apricots and peaches. Enough acidity to keep the creaminess from getting to be too much and a long, luscious finish that lingers and leaves you wanting more.

Dalton, Reserve, Viognier, 2008: A few years ago there was an explosion of Viognier wines on the market as it went through a phase of being the so called “flavor of the month”. I found many of these wines to be very Chardonnay-like and, other than the Yarden Viognier, was not very impressed. Things have gotten better over the years as wineries became more comfortable with the varietal and, while I still love the Yarden, recently I find myself drinking more of the Dalton then the Yarden. This light to medium bodied wine was partially (about 40%) fermented from the wild yeast available on the skins and in the atmosphere and presents with the varietally typical honeyed peachy and apricot flavors on the nose and palate which are backed up by apricots, honey and creamy peaches. Give the wine a few minutes and you will be rewarded with ripe figs, freshly blooming flowers, vanilla and white pepper leading into a long lingering finish.

While I am sure this will come as a complete shock to my readers (all of whom are clearly well-rounded and sophisticated individuals), there are a large number of folks out there who think that all wines are alike and differences between wines are irrelevant and purely fictional (gasp). These are probably the same folk who think that “their four-year old kid could have painted that” Jackson Pollack painting and see no value in it – in other words – Philistines….
<br/ >Now while some of you may be surprised at this fact, I am sure that some of you feel the same way about the glass in which you imbibe the nectar of the gods – that there isn’t really a difference and all the razzle-dazzle around which glass you drink with which wine, crystal versus glass, stem versus stemless and the like arguments are a bunch of bularky meant for some self-important wine snobs whose heads are stuck where the sun don’t shine and have forgotten how to actually enjoy the wine they are drinking. Now, while this may surprise some of you, I am somewhat in agreement with that school of thought. While I congratulate Claus Josef Riedel for convincing millions of folks out there that Riesling just doesn’t taste like Riesling unless you are drinking it out of a specially made, hand-blown, lead-crystal Riesling glass – that is a load of crap (but hey – kudus on the marketing technique Claus; Google could learn from you). Without getting into why lead-crystal wine-glasses are perfectly safe, I should mention that a theory holds that the Roman empire feel because of excessive use of lead in their eating/cooking utensils and one should be wary of using lead-crystal decanters to Store scotch, Port of sherry for more that a few days.
<br/ >That said, while I don’t think that there is an actual need for the more than 100 different shaped wine glasses that Riedel has produced for a seemingly endless list of different types of wine (list a few), that doesn’t mean that I think you get the same wine experience drinking wine from a plastic cup that you do from a Riedel Sommeliers Burgundy Grand Cru 37 ounce $105 glass which was is on permanent display in New York’s MOMA (with all due respect to the moans of pleasure evoked by Miles and his 1961 Cheval Blanc out of a local diner’s white Styrofoam cup). I firmly believe that, in order to appreciate wine to the fullest, having the right glass and understanding what makes it the right glass, is an important part of the experience. Different types of glasses emit different tastes and can affect the aroma of the wine it contains. The wrong type of glass may even have an adverse effect on the taste of the finest wine, which is why I advocate getting a custom-made crystal liner for your favorite or special Kiddush cup.
<br/ >There are a number of ways in which having the proper wine glass can significantly enhance your wine-tasting/drinking experience and, in this week’s newsletter, I am going to give a little background and information on wineglasses in general, provide some tips and guidelines for figuring out what the “proper wineglass” and explaining some of the myriad of ways such a glass can impact your onephellic experience and if you find yourself muttering “yeah, yeah” under your breath I suggest you skip t the “Taste test” below and prove yourself wrong without delay. In keeping with this newsletter’s main philosophy, the ‘proper” wine glass we are taking about is that wine glass that is proper for you! For a short but interesting history of wine glasses check out the link at: http://hubpages.com/hub/Wine-Glasses—A-History.
<br/ >Most wine glasses are stemware and red-wine glasses are shaped, more or less, like a tulip with a wide bowl and narrower mouth – this to allow a glass to contain a goo amount of wine that can be swirled without making a mess with a narrower opening to concentrate the aromas and deliver them directly to your nose. While Riedel does make a stem-less crystal wine glass – the “O” series, I am a pretty big believer in the importance of stemware. While the common theory that the main reason for the stem is to prevent ones body heat from altering the temperature of the glass is pretty close to nonsense as only the temperature of the air surrounding the wine inside the glass really affects the wine’s temperature (the changes are never going to be that dramatic in the relevant timeframe even though brandy glasses are shaped exactly for that purpose; this is because brandy is much more susceptible than most wines to body heat which is required to bring out some of its delicate aromas), some of the ways that stems increase and enhance the wine-drinking experience are in the areas of reasons that include aesthetics (a clear stemmed glass allows one to fully view and enjoy the wine’s color, viscosity and rim without fingerprints messing up the view), aromas (having a stem enables easier and more vigorous swirling which, as we know, enables the multitude of aromas locked in a wine to escape for our enjoyment) and staying out of prison (I heard from an acquaintance that the police love stemless glasses because it’s impossible to get whole or court-recognized fingerprints from stemmed glasses).
<br/ >HOW TO CHOOSE A PROPER WINE GLASS
<br/ >Choosing wine glasses can be both fun and easy with a little advance preparation and knowledge. While the shape of the glass makes a difference as I will describe below, the aspect of the wine glass that provides the most impact on the quality of the wine experience is the quality of the glass. Ideally a wine glass should be made out of crystal that is thin and delicate. A glass made of fused or cut glass will interfere with the taste of the wine and produce a think and uncomfortable lip to the glass. An easy and quick way to ascertain whether a wine glass is of good quality is the “clink test”. When toasting, the sound of the glasses should be a “clink”, not a “clunk”. If a clunk is heard the bowl is too thick or you picked up juice glasses from Wal-Mart.
<br/ >While hundreds of different shapes are preposterous, there are a few basic shapes for different wines that make a lot of sense. As an extremely general rule, Red wines with bigger bouquets, are best drunk from glasses with large (I suggest 18-25 ounces which allows for enough wine to be poured for normal consumption while still allowing for the required swirling – the proper amount to fill a wine glass is between a third to a half of the glass (closer to a third)), broad and slightly elongated bowls while wine glasses with narrower bowls are more suited for white wines as they serve to better concentrate the more delicate aromas of such wines. For champagne and other sparkling wines, there is the glass known as a champagne flute, which is tall, thin and also shaped like a tulip. Visual enjoyment of the bubbles that differentiate a sparkling wine from a still wine is enhanced by the height of the glass as the bubble have further to travel and tantalize the eyes. The once popular shorter version of the Champagne glass — whose design was reputed to be based on an particular aspect of Marie Antoinette’s anatomy — is too likely to spill and doesn’t present the rising bubbles to best advantage or prolong the necessary chill like a tall thin glass will. These three basic types of glasses will suffice for all but a minute number of wine drinkers.
<br/ >If your budget, available cabinet space or desire for simplicity limit your choices to one single glass instead of choosing an all purpose glass, I would go with a medium sized red wine glass that will be large enough to allow you to properly enjoy your red wines without overwhelming the white wines you enjoy. Personally I have two wine glasses I use on a regular basis and a two Riedel glasses that I use when drinking really special stuff alone (I received four as a (magnificent) gift – two have survived my three children so far). My regular wine glasses are Luigi Bormioli Crescendo 20 ounce Bordeaux ($30 for four on Amazon) and I also have a bunch of Riedel’s Vinum Bordeaux 21.5 ounce glasses (about $150 for eight on Amazon) that I use when I have wine lovers (without children) over. Schott Zwiesel and Spiegel also make great stuff that is affordable.
<br/ >One last tip is with respect to washing you fine crystal – obviously do not put it in the dishwasher. Further, as detergents typically leave a slight film of residue on glassware, I suggest always washing your good crystal by hand using only baking soda or washing soda – neither leaves residue and both are found on any supermarket in the cleaning sections.
<br/ >THE “TASTING IS BELIEVING TEST”
(otherwise known as the “I Am a Horrific Skeptic Test”)
<br/ >Note: I have listed a bunch of different glasses for comparison; not all are required for the test.
<br/ >Part I – the Beginner’s Test
<br/ >1. Pick a nice, young, bold red or white wine – preferably a highly aromatic one (like Yarden’s Odem organic Chardonnay, Galil Mountain’s Viognier or Ella Valley’s Vineyard Choice Merlot 2003).
<br/ >2. Pour the same amount of the wine into (a) a plastic cup, (b) a silver Kiddush cup; (c) a thick water glass; (d) a beer glass, (e) a cheap wine glass from Target, Crate and Barrel or the like (as long as the bowl and rim are relatively thick); and (f) a fine crystal glass.
<br/ >3. One-by-one, give each glass a vigorous swirl, take a good deep sniff and then actually taste the wine. You will be blown away by the differences.
<br/ >Part II – the Oenophile’s Test
<br/ >1. Select one varietal wine (try a Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier or Zinfandel).
<br/ >2. Pour the wine of choice into three glasses of equal quality but different shapes (e.g. a Riesling, Burgundy and Chablis Riedel glasses). Try to select the glass recommended by the company for that variety and two others, those recommended for other varieties.
<br/ >3. As above, one-by-one, give each glass a vigorous swirl, get a good whiff and taste the wine. There will still be abundant differences (although less profound than in the beginner’s test above).

#148 – November 10, 2010

After covering California’s largest kosher winery last week, this week I am writing about a number of smaller Californian wineries where a recent proliferation of great kosher wine bodes amazingly well for the future of the kosher oenophile. While Herzog and Hagafen are well known and, together with Four Gates and Covenant, have been making suburb Californian wines for quite some time; this week’s wineries are new kids on the block and far less known. Based on the quality of these wines, this obscurity is a sin I hope to at least partially rectify with this newsletter. I also wanted to wish a hearty Mazal Tov to N&AS whom, given their current California dwelling, are supremely positioned to directly benefit from this week’s newsletter – Mazal Tov!

Before I get into Brobdignanian, Syraph, One|Two Punch and B.R. Cohn; I wanted remind you about the Leket Wine Club and ask that you check it out, sign up and let your friends know about it. A membership is a great wine to learn about and explore news wines and also makes a great gift for Chanukah, a wedding or any other gift-giving occasion. Each quarter I personally select some great Israeli wines that are shipped directly to your door. Check it out here and feel free to email me directly with any questions. Also, Yossie’s Wine Recommendations is now on Twitter with daily wine recommendations, tips, wine quotes, articles and other oenophilic goodies – so please follow me @yossieuncorked.

While many micro-sized wineries are located in actual garages – which is the source of the term “Garagiste Winery”; it is commonly used to mean small and tiny wineries regardless of the structure in which the wine is made. In Israel the proliferation of garagiste wineries has been ongoing for years and is producing ever-improving wines, resulting primarily from increases in available knowledge, resources and technology. While there is still an incredible amount of plonk being produced by garagistes and sold at offensive prices, more and more of the offerings are surprisingly good (but still overly expensive). While, as an enthusiastic kosher wine consumer this is great, as the author of this newsletter it makes my job a little more difficult. It is getting increasingly harder to stay on top of all the new offerings and barely a week goes by where I don’t get 1-2 questions and a wine or winery about which I had never heard.

However, only recently have folks in the great state of California begun producing kosher wines on a garagiste scale and all of those I have recently tasted are amazingly good. I recently mentioned the Brobdignanian Syrah and have now tasted their Grenache. I had the opportunity to taste the first kosher wine produced by the B.R. Cohn winery and two cool blends of Syrah and Grenache produced by the Weiss Brothers. The Brobdignanian and Weiss Brother labels are extremely cool, lending their big behemoth and wax-encased bottles extra panache (the Brobdignanian wines and the Syraph are bottles in the exact same bottles. I also recently acquired a few bottles of Covenant’s new Solomon wine – their just released, über-tiered wine but, given the $150 price tag and the fact that I pay for all the wines I taste myself, I haven’t yet sacrificed a bottle to the newsletter (but will definitely report back once I do).

As an aside, I have recently put together a list of newsletter subscribers who professed interest in being advised of future interesting wine-buying opportunities such as these. Please let me know if you are interested in being added to the list. One lesson learned while acquiring these wines was that buying from smaller operations can be exceedingly frustrating at times, given their extremely limited, sometime one-man, operations. Even after getting someone to answer my emails and phone calls and actually placing my order, in some cases it took numerous follow-ups to ensure that the wine was actually shipped which was slightly annoying. However any aggravation immediately dissipated into thin air upon tasting of the wines. Please let me know if you would like more information on any of these wines and I will forward the relevant contact information for each of these folks separately.

Shabbat Shalom,
Yossie

BROBDIGNANIAN

I wrote about the Brobdignanian Syrah a few weeks ago when gifted it by SF, and recently had an opportunity to try it again, together with the Grenache (of which I was unfortunately only able to secure two bottles). Made by Jonathan Hajdu – Covenant’s assistance winemaker, these are big, bold, alcoholic and powerful wines. Prior to his current gig at Covenant, Jonathan worked at wineries around the world including in Australia, California and at the Carmel Winery in Israel. Like the Weiss brothers, I believe Jonathan also worked at the Herzog Winery. Named for the giants discovered by Lemuel Gulliver during his mythical travels though the world of Jonathan Swift and easily living up to their colossal namesakes; these are high alcohol wines, both clocking in at 16.3%.

Brobdignanian, Syrah, Santa Barbera, 2007: While this wine may be a tough mouthful to enunciate it is anything but tough in the mouth. Slightly tight tannins that needed a well worth it 10-15 minute wait in the glass, with tannins and fruit nicely woven together in a wine that quite literally dances on your tongue. The more than 16% alcohol shouldn’t give you any pause as the alcohol, wood and fruit blend seamlessly into harmonious bliss. Loads of rich fruit including blueberries matched nicely by freshly cracked black pepper and currants and strengthened with cedar wood, all with an underlying pleasant earthiness that is almost smoky in nature. The second glass of this wine was even better, as the fruit had settled down to reveal additional layers of complexity leading into a very long and delicious finish with hints of the darkest chocolate you can find and wet tobacco leaf.

Brobdignanian, Grenache, Santa Barbera, 2007: Making the giants of Brobdingnag proud, this is a gigantic and full-bodied wine with over 16% alcohol and plenty of wood, tannins and robust fruit. The hide-and-seek gambit of a giant rarely works and it is no different with this monster wine. While tight and closed at first, some vigorous swirling and some 15-20 minutes in my glass released an expressive and delightful nose packed with blackberries, tangy raspberries, green notes, spices and plenty of wood. A big and bold nose that was followed by a sucker-punch of a palate loaded with more of the fruit together with cedar wood, wet forest floor and more spices. Rounding out this elegant blockbuster is a heavily extracted finish that is long and lasting. Not as sturdy a backbone as I would have expected given the boldness of the wine, this should last another 5-6 years. Had I guessed just based on the nose, I would have forecasted a longer cellaring life.

B. R. COHN

Given the non-kosher nature of the winery, I had never heard of it until recently learning about its first kosher release. Being a curious vino lover and given their sterling reputation (gotta love Google); I ordered a case figuring it was a pretty low risk investment. After tasting the wine, it may go down as one of the better investments I have ever made. After my purchase, Daniel Rogov tasted the wine and rated it a 92 and the wine has since been flying out of the winery, case by case. With 400 cases made, there should be plenty to go around but I wouldn’t wait too long.

Made by known philanthropist and rock music impresario Bruce Cohn (who manages the Doobie Brothers), the B.R. Cohn winery is almost as well known for its olive oil as its wines. For many years Bruce sold the grapes grown on his family plot to other wineries but, after years of observing these wineries earn top recognition for wines made with his grapes; he opened his own winery in 1984. Hopefully it will be a commercial success that will convince him to make many more kosher cuvees in the near future.

B. R. Cohn, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trestle Glen-Sonoma Valley, 2008: A medium bodied wine that is ready to drink right now and very enjoyable right out of the bottle. Rich and opulent with solid tannins beautifully integrated with plenty of black cherries, dark plums and some currants with a nice dose of underlying spice. Given the lushness of the wine, I was surprised at its elegance, but very pleasantly surprised at. I am taking no risks predicting a 3-4 cellaring life for this wine; but given the wine’s solid backbone and strong tannins, it could surprise us and live well beyond that. Plenty of almost-sweet cedar wood and hints of tobacco leaf combined with near-perfectly ripe fruit make this a delicious wine with plenty of complexity to keep you engaged. A long finish with more tobacco, dark chocolate and hints of black licorice leave you aching to crack another bottle (but I controlled myself). At $30 a pop (including cross-country shipping), this wine was well worth my hard-earned shekels and nearly earned itself a YH Best Buy.

SYRAPH / 1-2 PUNCH

These wines are made by former employees of the Herzog Winery – Shimon and Gabe (Gavriel) Weiss. During their work on the 2008 harvest, they decided to produce their own wine. After sourced some Syrah from the Laetitia vineyard from San Luis Obispo county and Grenache from the Cuyama Valley in Santa Barbara, they produced four barrels of mouth-wateringly delicious wine (approximately 80-100 cases).

I recently had a conversation with Peter Hellman from the Wine Spectator who doesn’t think very highly of Syrah. Given the massive proliferation of Syrah in Israeli wines, both as single-varietals (like the Yarden and Ella Valley Syrah and the amazing Dalton Reserve Shiraz) and as substantial components in recent “Super-Israelis” (37% of the Yarden Rom and 35% of the Ella Valley “E”); it is clear that the Israeli wine-making consensus strongly disagrees with him. To this respectable group, you can add Shimon and Gabe Weiss who choose to make Syrah-based wines as their first endeavor notwithstanding their hailing from California – the state in which Cabernet Sauvignon was meant to grow up.

Outside of Port, these are the wines with the highest alcohol levels I have ever tasted with the Syraph clocking in at a mean 16.85% and the One|Two with a slightly lower 15.83% but, somehow the Weiss Brothers managed to keep them from becoming overly “hot” – the fruit and wood have the alcohol completely under control. Given the deliciousness of the wine, you just need to be careful how much of it you drink… I am very much looking forward to their next endeavor!

Syraph, 2008: A blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Grenache with the muscular Syrah somewhat dominating the Grenache. Crazy alcohol at 16.85% and made with super-ripe grapes, the nose on this wine screams “I’m from California” at you and is locked, cocked and ready to rock. Tons of juicy black plums, blackberries and ripe cherries on both the nose and palate surround a hearty oak and tannic core that bodes for some nice cellaring ahead, all of which is supplemented with great spice and milk chocolate. The Syrah brings notes of graphite and freshly paved road to the party, livening things up considerably and nicely tempering the milk chocolate notes. A really long finish lingers and makes you wonder where the bottle went until the pounding in your head reminds you to find some friends with which to share your next bottle.

One|Two Punch, 2008: A medium to full-bodied wine made from a blend of 50% Grenache and 50%. Punch is a good name for this alcohol loaded that checks in at 15.63%. When given an even playing field, the Grenache really gets to showcase its herbs and flavors of lightly roasted coffee beans. That said, plenty of Syrah is in play with blackberries, currants and plums; all juicy and fresh. Despite having a little more vanilla-ed oakiness that I would have liked, this wine was really enjoyed and was truly something different. Other than the Rhone based Domaine St. Benoit and the Capcanes, I haven’t really had the opportunity to taste wines with any Grenache in them (although I am looking forward to tasting the upper-tier Grenache Capcanes) and very much enjoyed it. A wine that was truly fun to drink and one that should continue to evolve with time.

Yossie’s Wine Recommendations #120 – 3/12/10
Holiday Prep – Pessach Buying Guide #1

NOTE: Scroll to the bottom for the Pessach Recommended Wine Lists

The weeks leading up to Pessach are among the US kosher wine industry’s busiest as more wine is sold during this time than the rest of the year combined. Practically all the new wines are unveiled during this time. A great tasting is being held this Sunday at the über cool City Winery in Soho (details below). The tasting is in connection with the Jewish Week’s Kosher Wine Guide supplement published last Friday, for which I was one of the judges who rated the wines set forth in the guide (which will be distributed at the tasting if you missed last week’s edition of the Jewish Week). I will be at the tasting and really look forward to meeting any of you who will be there – so please let me know if you plan on attending and we can get together over some superb wine!

As is my wont every year, this newsletter includes some of my recommendations for wines in two price ranges – Under $15 and $15-29. I also suggest taking another look at my Under $20 list from newsletter #112. While the lists include many good and enjoyable wines, as a general rule, the wines on the Under $15 list are not complex, cellar worthy or sophisticated (although some are). These lists are not exhaustive, nor do they necessarily represent all the best wines; but rather wines I enjoy and think you will as well. Most of the wines on these lists qualify as YH Best Buys – wines I consider a particularly good way to spend your Shekels. One thing to consider is that 2008 was a great vintage year in Israel, especially for white wine, but, as a result of it being Shmittah, almost no wines are available in the US – just another reason to live in Israel!

Next week I will provide two additional lists – $30-50 and Moshiach Wines which, for my newer readers, are wines I would be proud to serve the Moshiach, were I ever so lucky to have him grace my table with his presence. These special wines sometimes include older vintages I have been storing for a while in my cellar and are not always readily available at your local retailer.

The Pessach requirement to consume four full cups of wine at the Seder brings with it a number of dilemmas requiring some serious consideration, thought and planning. Chief among these, is that four cups of wine is a lot of wine to be consuming at one sitting (even over the 5 or so hours our Seder traditionally lasts), especially given the fact that the first two cups are typically imbibed on an empty stomach. Another issue is the fact that most of us will use the same silver goblets we use for Kiddush. While during the year, the potential negative effect the silver may have on your wine is easily negated by immediately pouring the wine into a proper wine glass after Kiddush, during the Seder the wine has an extended stay in your silver goblet before it gets consumed, giving the metal and wine far longer to consummate their evil plot to destroy your carefully selected wine. Other considerations are the tradition to only drink red wine and to avoid any Mevushal wine (which I obviously don’t view as a problem) at the Seder.

For the last five years I have been spending a splendiferous Pessach in Miami Beach with my family. In preparation for the Chag, I always ship a case or two of Moshiach wines in advance to ensure that the holiday requirements are fulfilled in an appropriate manner. Given my desire to honor the Seder as nicely as possible, we have always consumed a number of these Moshiach bottles during the Seder for the four cup requirement. However, the empty stomach, requirement to consume the entire cup of wine rather rapidly and focus on keeping three little kids from wreaking havoc all combine to significantly detract from ones ability to fully enjoy and appreciate the complexities, nuances of flavor and aroma of these typically magnificent wines.

As a result, I have made an executive decision this year (probably the only executive power I have at home) to avoid drinking Moshiach wine for the four cups. To my family members recoiling in horror at the thought of a – Seder without Moshiach wines – have no fear – I will still be bringing a full compliment of Moshiach wines – we will just be enjoying them during the Seder meal and at all the subsequent meals we will be sharing together.

The decision to forgo Moshiach wines for the four cups leaves me with the dilemma of what wines I should be drinking for the four cups. Being the traditionalist I am, I have decided to stick with red wines for all four cups and will be choosing my wines based on some simple principles. I will be looking for top quality, medium bodied, relatively simple and inexpensive wines (once you consume wine in any significant quantity, your taste buds begin to numb, which further limits your ability to enjoy great wine). Some favorites of mine include Recanati’s Reserve Petit Sirah-Zinfandel, the Gamla Sangiovese and the Capcanes Peraj Petita (the little sister of my all time favorite Spanish wine – the Capcanes Peraj Ha’Abib). As fellow wine connoisseur SG suggests, a light Israeli syrah (like Dalton’s 2007 Syrah which I recently enjoyed at Gotham Wine’s big tasting) would be an excellent choice. To the extent you are looking for well priced whites, Recanati’s Chardonnay, Dalton’s Sauvignon Blanc Fume or Yarden’s Viognier are all good and affordable bets.

Shabbat Shalom,
Yossie

Under $15

(1) Barkan, Classic, Pinot Noir, 2007
(2) Barkan, Reserve, Chardonnay, 2007
(3) Baron Herzog, Zinfandel
(4) Baron Herzog, Chardonnay,
(5) Binyamina, Yogev, Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot, 2007
(6) Cantina Gabriele, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, 2007
(7) Casa da Corca, Douro, 2005
(8) Dalton, Sauvignon Blanc Fume, 2009 – one of the few 2009 white wines available
(9) Dalton, (Unoaked) Chardonnay – Crisp, refreshing and delightful – also from 2009
(10) Galil Mountain, Merlot, 2007
(11) Golan Heights Winery, Golan Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 – party a result of the wineries success, this series contains some hidden gems – this is one of them
(12) Golan Heights Winery, Gamla, Pinot Noir
(13) Golan Heights Winery, Gamla, Merlot
(14) Recanati Yasmin Red – a surprisingly refreshing and tasty wine
(15) Recanati Rose (spring is coming – celebrate with one of my all time favorite Rose wines)
(16) Tabor, Galil, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 – the Merlot is also worth checking out

$15-29

(1) Capcanes, Peraj Petita, 2007
(2) Carmel, Appellation, Cabernet Franc, Upper Galilee, 2007
(3) Carmel, Appellation, Cabernet Sauvignon, Upper Galilee, 2007
(4) Carmel, Sha’al Late Harvest, Gewurztraminer, 2006
(5) Dalton, Reserve, Syrah, 2007
(6) Ella Valley, Cab Franc, 2007 – probably my favorite Cabernet Franc today and that is saying a lot!
(7) Ella Valley, Chardonnay, 2007
(8) Ella Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 – at half the price, this wine is almost as good as one of my perennial favorites – the Ella Valley Vineyards – Vineyards Choice wines
(9) Galil Mountain, Meron, 2006 –Awesome wine (and a crazy weird blend that works).
(10) Galil Mountain, Yiron & Yiron Syrah – hands done, without a doubt the ultimate YH Best Buy!
(11) Galil Mountain, Avivim, 2006
(12) Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Cabernet, 2006 – as a result of the many news wines available , this wine seems to have become a cliché. Nay I say! It’s delicious, cellarable, and affordable and well worth drinking!
(13) Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Viognier, 2006
(14) Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Odem Organic Vineyard, Chardonnay, 2007
(15) Golan Heights Winery, Gamla, Pinot Noir, 2006
(16) Hagafen, Napa Valley, White Riesling, 2008
(17) Psagot, Edom, 2007 – beware the 2006 which is nowhere as good – truly an up and coming/improving winery – the 2008 (Shmittah) vintage wines are amazing!.
(18) Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2006
(19) Recanati, Reserve, Shiraz, 2006
(20) Red Fern Cellars, Syrah, 2005 – a tiny winery from Long Island run by Ari Munk as a labor of love that results in some good and funky wines. Worth looking for and enjoying a bottle or two.
(21) Red Fern Cellars, Chardonnay, 2005 – interesting and delicious
(22) Tabor, Adama, Gir, Merlot, 2006
(23) Tabor, Adama, Bazelet, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 – the Terra Rosa Cab is also great and makes for some very interesting side-by-side, comparative tasting that really show the importance of terrior.
(24) Teperberg, Meritage, 2006
(25) Teperberg, Silver, Late Harvest, White Riesling, 2007 – the 2008 is even better!
(26) Teperberg, Terra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 – another winery that continues to improve every year!
(27) Tishbi, Estate, Cabernet Franc, 2006 – in case you haven’t noticed yet, I love Cabernet Franc

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Yossie’s Wine Recommendations #121 – 3/18/10
Oenophilic Ecstasy – Pessach Buying Guide #2

Given the length of recent newsletters, I promised myself that this week’s edition would contain nothing more than the promised lists of recommended wines in the $30-50 price range and a list of Moshiach Wines (which, as previously mentioned, are those extra special wines I would be honored to serve the Moshiach when he graces my table). Moshiach wines are especially important on Pessach as the Moshiach actually graces our table during the Seder (or at least we hope he does)! I have tried to keep this little promise to myself but, as you will see below, some of these wines are so fabulous that I felt obliged to sing their praises, if only a little. So, while no real tasting notes are included, there are a few words with respect to a number of the recommended treats.

Additionally, and as with my prior lists, these are neither exhaustive nor comprehensive. The wines below are just some of my favorite wines at the relevant price points. I would also note that wine prices, especially kosher wines, vary widely and may differ from country to country, state to state and store to store.

Shabbat Shalom,
Yossie

$30-50 (plenty of these are the best kind of Moshiach Wines in quality not price!)

(1) Barkan, Altitude 770, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: The Cabernet from their highest “Altitude” and worthy of leading the pack.
(2) Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest Cluster Select, Reserve, 2008: A fabulous change has occurred over the last couple years – there are now many great choices for sophisticated dessert wines. I love this version from Binyamina, but it’s not available in the US given its Shmittah vintage year.
(3) Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, Choshen, 2006.
(4) Chateau Le Crock, Cru Bourgeois, St-Estephe, 2005: Other than the Baroness Nadine Malmaison, this is by far my favorite French wine from a straight value perspective.
(5) Chateau Rollan de By, Cru Bourgeois, 2003.
(6) Castel, Petit Castel¸ 2007: As a result of my known preference for Israeli wines over French, I actually like this wine (“second” in name only) over its more famous and revered big brother – the Grand Vin (which is recommended below on the Moshiach list). I have not yet tasted the 2008 but rumor has it that it’s the best yet!
(7) Carmel, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: The Kayoumi Shiraz is awesome as well – there is something special going on in Carmel’s Kayoumi vineyard for sure.
(8) Chateau Tertre Daugay, St. Emilion, 2000.
(9) Covenant, Chardonnay, Lavan, 2008: A white Burgundy style California Chardonnay – absolutely delicious!
(10) Ella Valley Vineyards, Vineyards Choice, Merlot, 2003: The Cabernet Sauvignon is also delightful.
(11) Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2006: This wine is from their “regular” series but would be very comfortable in the “Vineyards Choice” series.
(12) Four Gates, Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2007: Four Gates is a small Santa Cruz winery producing very nice wines. Wines are only available directly from the winery by phone. Prepare for a long conversation about wine when you call.
(13) Four Gates, Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2006: A great Cabernet Franc with all the traditional bells and whistles.
(14) Francios Labet Puligny-Montrachet: A crisp delicious wine.
(15) Francios Labet, Meursault: One of my all-time favorite white wines (the Yarden Odem Chardonnay is my absolute favorite with Covenant’s Laven a definite new contender).
(16) Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Ortal Vineyard, Syrah, 2004: Part of the Golan Heights Winery’s blockbuster “Single Vineyard” series and one of the best Israeli Syrah’s I have enjoyed to date.
(17) Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2007: As I have written before, Gvaot is a young, upstart winery doing fabulous work with massive additional upside potential.
(18) Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon-Zinfandel-Syrah: An interesting blend whereby all the parts contribute to the delightful whole.
(19) Herzog, Special Reserve, Alexander Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon. I actually like the Cabernet from this vineyard over the more highly touted Chalk Hill stuff.
(20) Recanati, Special Reserve, 2006: I always loved this wine and, given that it was my son Zevi’s first wine, even more so since his Bris.
(21) Saslove, Single Vineyard, Sagol, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: While Barry Saslove’s first entry in the kosher wine making was not great, this wine is delicious – well integrated, tannins, lightly spiced and deep, rich fruits all come together nicely.
(22) Segal, Single Vineyard, Dishon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Along with the Dovev Merlot, there are some of Segal’s best stuff – well priced (although much better priced in Israel) and delicious.
(23) Tabor, Mescha, 2005: A treat! Check out their red dessert wine as well.
(24) Tanya, Halel, Merlot, 2006: Another winery from whom we have seen significant improvement over the years. Give this one a little time to open and you will be rewarded.
(25) Teperberg, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: As good as this wine is, the 2007 is better (if you can find it).
(26) Tzora, Misty Hills, 2006: An interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah yielded great results. Tzora is a winery with loads of good wines these days, very few of which are imported into the US. One thing to note is they have a large number of labels that can be confusing at times. Rogov’s book is exceedingly helpful.
(27) Tzuba, Hametzuda, 2007: Another relatively new winery that burst onto the scene with a vengeance and has rapidly (together with Gvaot) become a house favorite of mine.
(28) Tzuba, Tel Tzuba, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Tzuba also produced a Pinot Noir in 2007 that is supposed to be amazing although I have not (yet) tasted it.
(29) Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2007: Simply put, the best (and most expensive Israeli) Sauvignon Blanc.

Moshiach Wines (or wines worth blowing your kids tuition money on)

(1) Bustan, Syrah, 2005: I have long been a huge fan of this tiny winery and their Syrah in particular.
(2) Bustan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005.
(3) Capcanes, Flor di Primavera, Peraj Ha’Abib, 2001: From my favorite winery, I am rapidly running out of the 2000 and 2001 vintages which I love dearly. The 2005 vintage is readily available, quite delicious and well worth the costs.
(4) Carmel, Limited Edition, 2005: Another prime example of Carmel’s greatness – a fabulous Bordeaux blend that is truly something special – elegant, layered and complex but still approachable.
(5) Castel, Grand Vin, 2006: The closest Israeli wine to a true French Bordeaux – Eli Ben-Zaken’s (the winemaker) French soul clearly flexing its muscles.
(6) Chateau Guiraud, Sauternes 2001: The best dessert wine – period.
(7) Chateau Leoville Poyferre, St.-Julien, 2003: Very expensive, but delicious and very well made.
(8) Covenant, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Whatever caused Jeff Morgan to start making kosher wine – we should give blessings daily for such an occurrence. From his first vintage in 2003, Covenant has exploded on the kosher wine scene with a vengeance, and the consistent greatness of his wines proves that he is here to stay. The Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon is rightfully Jeff’s flagship wine being a big, bold and highly extracted wine with great cellaring potential.
(9) Elvi, El26 Priorat, 2004: A well built powerful wine. Spicy with loads of high-powered black fruit.
(10) Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2003: Historically the best (kosher) Israeli – period. While there are many contenders to that title these days, the Golan Heights Winery manages to maintain its edge with fabulous wines such as this. This wine has aged with grace, poise and elegance and is a special treat. I also note the 1993 Katzrin (which was the second time the wine was made, the first being 1990) is still drinking well as I had an opportunity to discover a few weeks ago when I tried one of the last remaining bottles I have from this vintage. These wines are special stuff – worth the money and cellaring for a bit to see how they develop. I will miss the ’93 when I drink my last bottle.
(11) Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, El-Rom Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: While the 2001 remains one of my all time favorite Cabernet Sauvignon wines and is drinking beautifully right now, the 2004 is something special.
(12) Hagafen, Prix, Mélange, 2005: Hagafen’s Prix label is only available directly from the winery through membership in their wine club (which, for this reason, remains the best wine club out there). Consistently amazing and interesting wines, of which their 2004 Mélange was my favorite ever. While unfortunately no longer available, the 2005 fills its place well (if not completely).
(13) Hagafen, Prix, Soleil Vineyard, Pinot Noir, 2006.
(14) Herzog, Generation VIII, Cabernet Sauvignon, To Kalon-Napa Valley, 2006: A fabulous wine produced from grapes sourced in Napa’s famous To Kalon vineyard, this is a very very expensive wine but one that might merit a splurge for a special occasion and definitely deserving of the Moshiach Wine title!
(15) Louis de Sacy, Brut, Grand Cru Champagne, n.v.: A true Champagne and worthy of special occasions.
(16) Segal, Unfiltered, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: The closest thing to a good kosher Barolo available, this wine is deep, penetrating and great.
(17) Yatir, Forest, 2006: Yatir has long been one of my favorite wineries and everything it has done over the last few years only serves to enhance my adoration for it. From the impeccable Sauvignon Blanc listed above, to their blend and Cabernet Sauvignon (also both included on these lists), they remain one of the very best wineries in Israel – producing their wines in the Negev desert. Their varietal; Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are also well worth seeking out.

I also would note that the Golan Heights Winery produced no less than three single vineyard Merlot wines (from the Ortal, Tel Phares and Kela (formerly Sha’al) Vineyards,) all of which are just over $50. If you can afford it, they make a delicious and very interesting side-by-side tasting.

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Yossie’s Wine Recommendations #121.5 – 3/28/10
Short, Sweet & to the Point – Pessach Buying Guide #3

After last week’s title got the newsletter ensnared in many a spam filter, I decided to go with a more benign title this week. Also, as I have been on vacation most of this week with my kids (although vacation with kids is pretty much an oxymoron), this week’s edition is really only 1/2 an edition and is mainly being sent out to wish you all a great Pessach and hoping that you took advantage of the past two newsletters to stock up on some great vino at some of the really good sales. If not, you still have 48 hours or so to make sure you welcome the Chag in an appropriate manner!

I took the opportunity while down here to check out the wine selections in a number of the local stores and was actually pretty impressed with the selection here in Miami Beach where I will be spending Pessach – even the prices weren’t that egregious. Any readers down here for Pessach – give me a shout – I’d love to meet you!

In the event that the 82 recommendations I provided over the past two weeks were insufficient to slake your thirst, I am adding another ten highly recommend wines that would all greatly enhance your Seder or any other meal. Given that I only included three dessert wines among the prior recommendations, the wines below are all amazing, sweet, sophisticated, dessert wines that would either enhance any dessert or, for some of these wines, serve as a dessert onto themselves.

(1) Carmel, Vintage, Fortified Petite Sirah, Appellation, Judean Hills, 2007 – a great “port-style” fortified wine.
(2) Hagafen, Late Harvest, Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Coast, 2008
(3) Hagafen, Prix, White Riesling, Rancho Wieruzowski, 2008 – I loved the Prix 2006 late harvest Chardonnay – this is just as good!
(4) Hafner, Gruner Veltliner, Eiswein, 2002 – the only kosher Hafner I have enjoyed and its delicious.
(5) Herzog, Chenin Blanc, Late Harvest, Clarksberg, 2007
(6) Taylor Fladgate, Porto Cordovera, Late Bottled Vintage, 2004 – a fine addition to the Porto Cordovera port family. While a more sophisticated offering, I actually prefer the ruby port.
(7) Binyamina, Reserve, Late Harvest Cluster Select, Gewurztraminer, 2008 – my new favorite Israeli dessert wine.
(8) Chateau Piada, Sauternes, 2001 – prior to the kashering of the Guirard, this was the flagship kosher Sauternes and it remains an awesome wine.
(9) Tzuba, Chardonnay Dessert Wine, Tel Tzuva, n.v
(10) Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, Yarden, 2007 – a play on “ice wine”, this wine is supple, layered and delicious.

Shavua Tov and a Chag Kasher Ve’Samaech to all!
Yossie

#124 – April 25, 2010

The advent of spring usually brings forth a number of newsletters devoted to the glorious wines of summer including fresh flavored Rose wines or crisply refreshing Sauvignon Blanc wines. As global warming slowly envelopes the world in its tentacles, these newsletters have been appearing ever more early in the year as warm weather seems to be descending upon us earlier and earlier. However, given the chilly weather of the last few days and the downpour Manhattan was subjected to over the last 12 hours or so, I craved some brooding comfort last night and popped the cork on one of the only two true kosher Ports available – the non-vintage, Porto Cordovero – which I enjoyed it with some aged cheddar cheese and green apples. The perfect match of wine and weather led to the topic of this week’s edition – Port (and port-style) wines.

Port is a member of the family of fortified wines, of which the two most prominent members are Sherry and Port. Fortified wines are wine to which alcohol is added (thus fortifying the wine). If additional alcohol is added to the wine during the fermentation process, the resulting wine will be sweet; since the addition of the alcohol stops the fermentation process (which converts the grape’s sugar to alcohol) midway and less of the wine’s natural sugars are converted to alcohol, resulting in Port. When the fortifying alcohol is added once the fermentation process is complete, at which point all of the wine’s sugar has already been converted to alcohol, the resulting wine will be dry – giving us sherry.

Port is typically consumed after a meal and is fantastic when slowly sipped and matched brilliantly with strong cheeses like Gorgonzola, aged Cheddar and Gouda. Matching a good Port with a top notch Blue Cheese will change your life forever and provide an experience you will not forget. Some other traditional accompaniments to Port and port-style wines wine are walnuts and apples. While I prefer sipping port as a stand-alone experience, it can match nicely with berry or cherry-based deserts or other rich, chocolately-filled goodness.

True Port is made from many varieties of very foreign-sounding grapes grown in the Douro Valley region of Portugal (including Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cao, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Francesca). Also known as “Porto”, the name comes from Oporto, the city in northwest Portugal from which the wine was originally shipped. Only wine made in the Douro Valley region is deemed true port and will have “Porto” on its label as opposed to the many (and sometimes delicious) port-style wines produced, some of which I have reviewed below.

There are a few styles of Port wine, with the most common being Vintage Port, Late Bottled Vintage Port (LBV), Tawny Port and Ruby Port. Vintage Port is Port made from grapes of a chosen spectacular vintage (usually occurring only a couple times a decade) and is barrel aged for two years prior to bottling at which point it continues to develop and mature in the bottle for another 20-40 years. Late Bottled Vintage Port, of which we have now been blessed with a kosher version of, comes from good but not great years, is aged oak barrels for three to five years before bottling, and is soft and are ready to drink young. Tawny Port in the ‘next level down’ and made from a blend of several different vintages, aged for 10-30 years in casks and is lighter and smoother then Vintage Ports. Ruby Port, which is the other true kosher port available, are made from young wines and are sweet, fruity not usually aged. Unfortunately, we have not yet been blessed with a real kosher vintage port, which is obviously the type of Port the satirical Evelyn Waugh was referring to when he said, “Port is not for the very young, the vain and the active. It is the comfort of age and the companion of the scholar and the philosopher”.

Carmel Vintage, Fortified Petite Sirah, Judean Hills, 2007: While not “true” Port, this wine is a nice alternative to the Porto Cordovero wines reviewed below. Aromas of raisins, plums, chocolate and spices come at you with first sniff but not overly aggressive. On the palate, a rich, deep and very sweet wine with flavors of mocha, coffee, sweet (and slightly tangy) jammy berries with enough acidity and pleasant spiciness to balance the sweetness from becoming overpowering and flabby on the palate. Hints of slightly bitter almonds do a good job of keeping the sweetness honest and the entire wine in good balance. As opposed to the Cordovero wine, I often enjoy this wine with food as it matches nicely with most sweet desserts.

Tzuba, Red Dessert Wine in Port Style: Despite the weird name of this wine and its interesting composition of late harvested Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, it is a truly enjoyable wine from a great up-and-coming Israeli boutique winery about whom I have written in the past. With a heady nose bursting with aromas of ripe and jammy cherries, blackberries, spicy oak and tantalizing figs and yummy spice, you almost don’t need to drink this wine to actually appreciate its deliciousness. However that would be a crying shame if you stopped there as the luscious and caressing palate is loaded with sugar and spice and all that is nice including cherries, black forest fruits, figs and hints of raisins and spicy oak leading to a long, spicy finish showing the extra alcohol without being overwhelmingly “hot”.

Porto Cordovero, Fine Ruby Port, n.v.: A joint effort between Royal Wine Company and the highly respected Port lodge of Taylor Fladgate, this wine is a rich, sweet and fruity wine with hints of black fruit along with tantalizing hints of spices, vanilla and caramel. Especially chilled, the 20% alcohol isn’t as noticeable as you might think (primarily due to the delectable sweetness), so take care when drinking. Loads of dark prunes, cherries and hints of tantalizing burnt caramel leading into a long finish with hints of oriental spices. Definitely worth trying and once opened, the bottle will last for 2-3 weeks if kept in a cool place. Even with the introduction of the LBV reviewed below, this remains my favorite Port (at least until a true kosher Vintage Port makes an appearance).

Porto Cordovero, Porto Cordovero, LBV, 2004: Rumors of this wine abounded for quite some time but it was well worth the wait. As a Late Bottled Vintage should be, this wine is deeper, darker and significantly more complex that its younger sister – the Fine Ruby reviewed above. Another joint effort with Taylor Fladgate provided this delicious treat of a wine offering an insight into the wonderful world of “aged port” as this wine will evolve nicely, if not for the more traditional 30 years, for at least some time. Lots of the same aromas and flavors as the ruby including raisins, jammy blackberries, spicy wood, caramel and vanilla but somehow all presenting differently – more maturely- than the prior wine.

Katlav, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dessert Wine, 2006: Another up-and-comer about whom I usually refrain from writing about primarily due to the ridiculously and unwarranted, high-cost of their wines. Lots of rich, ripe and flavorful black cherries, plums and other jammy fruits on both the nose and palate tinged with spice and wood all coming nicely together to create a well made and balanced wine that matches well with dessert. Somehow different that your typical Port wine in both the flavors dominating your palate and the lively finish that lingers.

Tishbi, Barbera-Zinfandel, Dessert Wine, 2006: Another wine showing that you can make a port-style wine from any type of grape, this wine coming from an equal blend of Barbera and Zinfandel. A muscular wine whose abundant sweetness makes this wine for sipping after a meal as opposed to with it. Fruits that are more tangy than jammy including gooseberries, blackberries and raspberries matched by raisins, bitter almond and hints of Crème Brule. Not in the same class as most of the other wines listed but an interesting =wine that make for pleasant side-by-side comparisons.

For Kicks Only
Carmel, Partom, n.v.: Daniel Rogov’s note: “Carmel-Mizrachi’s Partom is a sweet, red, reinforced wine that has been aged in wood casks for ten years. Unfortunately, the winery’s claim that the wine can compete with the best Port wines in the world simply does not stand the test of reality. Unlike really fine Port wines, which are blends several varieties of grapes; Partom is made entirely from Malvasia grapes. What makes this odd is that these grapes, which are sometimes also known as Malmsey, are the major variety used in Madeira and not Port wines. More seriously, however, whereas fine Port wines are rich, smooth, luscious and full of character, the Partom is rather sad in its character, lacking robustness, richness or intensity. Sticky both to the fingers and in the mouth, Partom, whose alcoholic content has been elevated to 18% by the addition of brandy, is best categorized as a stimulating and aggressive rather than a satisfying or complex drink”.

#180 – July 21, 2011

With New York temperatures reaching 100ºF today (even before taking the tortuous humidity into effect making midtown Manhattan feel like a breezy 109ºF), I am sure I will be forgiven for focusing once again on the heat. As I make my way to work each day through a sea of mugginess, my thoughts focus on any and all means to refresh myself from the searing heat and naturally turn to the most refreshing and summery of wines – the goddess of goodness – Rosé. While I do sometimes enjoy Rosé during the year and with all due respect to Eric Asimov, Rosé is and always will be the perennial summer wine for me since, to quote Bill Ward, the second job of a wine in the summer is to be refreshing (the first job year-round is to be delicious).

As someone who revels in the continuous proliferation of great kosher options for the budding wine lover, I enjoy most varietals and many wine making styles as long as they are well done. However with all that said, during the scorching summer months I find myself reaching for Rosé more often than many of the other fantastic heat-busting available delights such as Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc or even sparkling wines (all of whom provide delightful respite from the terrors of a New York City July or August). With a beautiful pink color, tons of fresh and tart berry fruits, a typically low(er) alcohol content and crisp refreshing acidity, it’s the perfect summer beverage best enjoyed out of doors and well chilled. In my opinion, it also happens to be a wine insanely well suited to the Mediterranean climate and fare, making it another candidate for marketing good Israeli / Mediterranean wines. An added bonus is its low price and extreme versatility making it a delicious match to most foods. As you will see from the tasting notes below, Rosé can and is made from almost any red grape including Barbera, Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese with the more interesting versions coming from Syrah, Zinfandel, Grenache and Mourvèdre.

Rosé (French for pink) is used to describe the wines who fall into the color spectrum between red and white and are produced in a number of different ways. One method of producing Rosé is maceration in which, following crush, the [white] juice of red grapes is allowed to have minimal contact with the grape skins (typically a few hours to a few days) before they are discarded (the longer the contact with the skins the darker in color (and the more full-bodied and tannic) the wine will be). Given the limited contact with the skins, almost no tannins are imparted into the juice allowing the wine to be enjoyed well-chilled (see last week’s newsletter for the chilling effect on tannin). Another method is known as the Saignée method which is a byproduct of making red wine in which the wine maker “bleeds the vats”. If a wine maker desires to increase the intensity of a red wine, they may drain some of the pink juice prior to fermentation resulting in a higher concentration of red juice and a more intensely flavored wine. The drained pink juice is fermented as a separate wine giving us Rosé. Another, far less common method that usually results in inferior wines, is blending red and white wines which is really only utilized in Champagne where Pinot Noir is added to a Champagne base to create the sexist of all wines – Rose Champagne (see below for my note on the one great Rosé wine I have tasted, a Rosé Champagne from Laurent Perrier). Another, less common, method is via maceration, in which the Pinot Noir grapes are allowed [very] brief skin contact during fermentation (the methodology utilized for the Laurent Perrier below).

In the United State Rosé is also referred to as blush or White X, with X being replaced by the grape from which the wine in question is produced. An example would be White Zinfandel which, for some unfathomable reason, tends to be a pretty popular wine but remains a wine you should never ever drink. If there was ever a wine that could compete with Bartanura’s Moscato d’Asti for my hatred – White Zinfandel would be at the top of the list (and several rungs above any other potential competitor). Besides its general inferiority, most White Zinfandel wines have an unpleasant bubble gum flavor and almost every kosher version is a poster child for why plenty of people out there still think all kosher wines are terrible. According to Jeff Morgan, the postwar popularity of White Zinfandel in the United States is a deciding factor in the disdain many oenophiles have for Rosé. Now, if only Jeff, a renowned expert on Rose, would add a crisp refreshing Southern Rhone-style Rosé to his repertoire we’d be all set! While not set in stone, blush wines are usually those on the slightly sweeter side as opposed to dry and crisp Rosé wines.

As noted above, one of the best things about Rosé is its deliciousness chilled, providing substantial assistance in assuaging the exhausting effect of the heat and humidity. I try to serve Rosé at about 46-50ºF (8-10ºC) – slightly colder than its optimum drinking temperature which allows the wine to warm up ever so slightly on the table or in your glass as opposed to suffering a too-warm Rosé – never a pleasant experience. Coupled with its relatively low alcohol and extreme food-pairing versatility, Rosé is the quintessential picnic and/or brunch wine, matching beautifully with omelets, chicken salad, fried and lightly grilled fish and most of the other lighter fare which I find myself enjoying as the mercury starts skyrocketing.

While many prefer a little fruit and residual sugar in their Rosé, my personal preference is for exceedingly dry and crisp – a tough wine to find, especially in the kosher world where most Rosé wines are a little fruitier than I like. For many years my favorite Rosé was Tabor’s, made from Cabernet Franc grapes. With this wine apparently no longer being made, the delightful Agur Rosa only being sold in Israel (although we had it at the Sensi event for Leket – hope you got to enjoy some there) and the incredible Castel Rosé seemingly a one-time wonder (see newsletter #132), I am on quest to find a new favored Rosé to go with the Recanati, the only one of my top five favorite Rosé wines sold in the US. As Rosé wines are unfortunately not as common in US wine shops as I would like, this is tougher than it sounds. Some of the blame for Rosé’s lack of popularity may lie with the wineries, for which, in many cases, Rosé is either an after-thought or dumping ground for inferior red grapes. While Rosé is inexpensive to make it also has a low profit margin resulting in wineries not investing any serious time or effort. Granted, with the exception of a few Rosé Champagnes, there has never been a “great” Rosé wine and probably never will be, but that doesn’t ever excuse a lackluster effort. In recent years, Israel has seen an increase in the world of Rosé, both qualitatively and quantitatively. To that end, over the last few weeks & thanks to JS, RT & YF (my wine mules), I sourced a nice bunch of Rosé wines from Israel, most of which I enjoyed and some of which are described below.

Two last things to keep in mind when plunking down for a Rosé: similar to white wines, Rosé wines are meant to be drunk as close to release as possible so always look for the most recent vintage year as they lose their bright, fresh flavors quickly and Rosé is not a wine to be taken seriously – they are meant to be fun – so chill, relax and enjoy!

Available in the United States

Binyamina, Yogev, Rosé, 2010: While I feel like Binyamina’s Yogev series is a mixed bag – different wines doing better in different vintage years (the Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot blend seems to be a consistent hit for me), their Rosé is usually a good bet for something good but a little different. This year the wine is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel giving us a great summer quaffer whose fruit is accompanied with hints of spice and rock that I found gave the wine a little extra oomph.

Dalton, Rosé, 2010: A light, easy-drinking and refreshing wine but this year it seems a little too fruity for my tastes, precariously bordering (but not there) on the bubble gum danger zone. Nice and fruity with strawberries and boysenberries on the palate with an ever-so-slight undertone of pleasing bitter citrus tempered but just enough acidity to prevent the fruit from turning flabby. While most Rosé wines are not meant for sophistication, this wine is pure fun – an easy date!

Galil Mountain, Rosé, 2010: Concocted from a smorgasbord of red grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera and Pinot Noir with Sangiovese making the bulk of the wine at over 60%, this a very refreshing wine. A bright and cheerful wine that is perfect for a picnic and very well priced. Plenty of tart red berries and almost as dry as I like it, this wine has plenty of acidity to keep it fresh on your palate, regardless of how high temperatures rise.

Hagafen, Don Ernesto, Vin Gris, 2010: Standing out both in the varietal – Syrah and a relatively high level of alcohol for a Rosé – 13.7%, this remains a refreshing summer wine (and part of my quest to try more of the non-Israeli value-priced wines on the market). The Syrah provides a pleasing and unexpected bite of spice that plays nicely with slightly subdued fresh red berries and makes this wine an interesting one. Very much enjoyed during a hazy afternoon picnic lunch of cold chicken salad overlooking the Hudson River [only available in the US].

Laurent Perrier, Rosé Brut, n.v.: The only kosher Rosé Champagne made by a “real” Champagne House and a delicious treat (especially as it combines Rosé and Champagne – two of my favorite things). Less obligatory and more romantic (and expensive) than regular Champagne, Rosé Champagne has exploded in popularity over the last decade with more and more Champagne Houses trying their hands at producing this lucrative wine. This version is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes and, as with most Rosé wines, is pretty light on the palate. Loaded with typical yeast, toasted bread and green apple flavors, these accompanied by lush strawberries, cherries and hints of slightly astringent citrus. This is a fun (albeit expensive fun) wine and a great accompaniment to any summer festivities. A real treat [only available in the US]!

Recanati, Rosé, 2010: Made mostly from Barbera grapes with a bit of Merlot and easily available in the both Israel and the US. Lots of classic rose fruit on both the nose and palate with good acidity and a gentle hit of bitterness that balances out the fruitiness quite nicely. A wine for relaxing with and great for a summer brunch (or almost any other occasion as a great match to lighter dishes).

[To my Knowledge,] Only Available in Israel

Agur, Rosa, 2010: After enjoying the 2009 vintage of this wine on a trip to Israel I happily had it brought in specially for the Sensi event that benefited Leket. I wrote about this great little winery and its eccentric wine maker back in newsletter #149 and continue to enjoy their wines, with their white and rosé being really fun and fresh. Made with by the Saignée method, this wine has a relatively flat nose of fruit without the exuberant berries bursting forth that I usually love in a Rosé. However, the palate more than makes up for it with plenty of bright red fruit including raspberries, strawberries, cassis and watermelon. Good acidity backs up the fruit making for a delightfully refreshing wine and a great match to the light and refreshing fare one seeks out during these oppressively hot days.

Domaine Netofa, Rosé, Galilee, 2010: One of the wines included with the Eshkol Pessach shipment of the Leket Wine Club was a delicious blend from this new winery (read about them at the end of the Leket Wine Club’s Pessach selections). Pierre Miodownick also has a higher-end wine and this Rosé which, like the blend was really fun and enjoyable to drink beating back the heat and humidity with a cheerful smile. Utilizing the same grapes as the blend (Syrah and Mourvèdre), this wine has a bit more body than many of the other Rosés I reviewed, good fruit and a nice reflection of terroir with some flinty rock on the mid palate.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Rosé, 2010: Probably the first wine I have tasted from this overlooked and under-appreciated winery that I didn’t love at first taste. I assume it’s a result of being their first try at Rosé and will definitely grant the 2011 another shot but, while well-made with cherry and berry fruit, it was a little to sweet for me and lacked the bracing acidity that would have grated the sweetness the necessary edge. I can envision folks enjoying this really well-chilled on its own as an aperitif.

Older Tasting Notes

Castel, Rosé du Castel, 2009: Castel Winery has long been the favorite winery of many wine aficionados. While I love their wines and truly appreciate their elegance, balance and structure; Castel is not among my all-time favorite wineries, a fact mostly based on personal preferences and wine-making style (I tend to prefer Israeli style over French). All that said, their first Rosé wine, like all their other offerings, is a resounding success and well worth seeking out. Unfortunately only 3000 bottles were made of this first run, none of which were imported into the US. However, if you can get your hands on a bottle or two from Israel as I did, you will be richly rewarded as this Rosé, made from 100% Merlot and drunk well chilled is wonderful. Almost orange in color – crisply dry, loaded with strawberries, guava and sunshine with just the right balance of acidity, tannins and spice to get everything bouncing around nicely on your palate, it actually evolved over the hour or so it took us to get through the bottle. A perfect picnic wine (other than its more-expensive-than-usual-for-a-Rosé price tag of about NIS 80), and one that is guaranteed to enhance any outdoor summer experience. At 14%, the wine is carrying a little more alcohol than I would like for an outdoor summer wine but (other than for its potential affect on you) it isn’t noticeable.