Yossie's Corkboard

Busy Times

The weeks leading up to Pesach are the US kosher wine industry’s busiest, with more kosher wine purchased during this period than the rest of the year combined.  In Israel, Rosh Hashana is nearly as busy a buying season as Pesach and wine buying is also more liberally spread out through the year.  Even though the more than 3,000 different kosher wines being produced annually includes almost 100 disparate varieties of Fake Wines like Cream Malaga, Manischewitz, variations of Yayin Patishim and of course the horrid Blue Bottle Abomination, there remain far too many labels for any sane human being to wade through.

Elevated Stress Levels

I often discuss the many benefits of kosher wine proliferation; but the enhanced stress levels brought on by cooking commercial grade levels of brisket and matzah balls while attempting to eradicate every speck of dirt from the inside of your oven with a toothbrush highlight one of the few negative aspects of this bounty.  With wine such an integral part of the Pesach experience, the massive amount of choices can create a particularly stressful shopping experience as one contemplates the near-endless number of choices on the shelves or webpage of your favorite retailer.  Exacerbating the issue are several mitigating circumstances including the sheer number of mediocre-at-best available wines (along with an acceptable amount of true drek) and the unfortunate tendency of many retailers to part you from your hard earned krona by selling these less than worthy wines.   Typically stemming from a lack of knowledge, occasionally more sinister reasons are at play so, like in any other transaction, caveat emptor.  Other aggravating obstacles include lack of vintage transparency and the oenophilic “bait and switch” – advertising great deals for allocated wines without having them in stock and then selling you copious amounts of sub-par wines.  Adding to the fun is the terrible fact that many stores and online purveyors continue to sell wines that are so far past their optimum drinking windows that it’s practically criminal.

Help is Here

Given my belief that wine’s primary purpose as a beverage is to bring pleasure, I have done the work for you and curated my Annual Pesach Kosher Wine Buying Guide from among all the various options out there.  Hopefully the Guide will simplify your wine shopping and allow you to get back more important holiday preparations like peeling 6.5 tons of potatoes.

Following last year’s enhancement, the Guide covers my top recommendations for wines in the following five price tiers: (1) Under $18, (2) between $18-29.99, (3) between $30-49.99, (4) Over $50 and (5) Moshiach Wines.  As most of my readers know, Moshiach Wines are wines that I would proudly serve the Moshiach, were I ever sufficiently deserving for him to grace my table.

Many of the wines on this list will not come as a surprise to my regular readers given their perennial appearance over the years resulting from the consistent excellence of their producers and the talent of the applicable winemaker.  As years go by and the quality and quantity of top-notch kosher wines grows, the potential wines for this list gets longer, increasing the difficulty in providing this highly-curated list (listing every good wine would defeat the entire purpose of the list).  Representing less than 5% of all commercially available kosher wines, the list should go a long way in easing the pain of sifting through all your options.  For those desiring further curating, next week’s edition will also include a few of my personal favorites form each of the four different price points / categories.  With the quality of white wines increasing year over year there are more white wines on the list than in prior years, especially on in the lower price ranges.  If you are one of those unfortunate and self-proclaimed “I don’t drink white wine” people, please take this as an opportunity to try something new – I promise you won’t be disappointed.

The Fine Print

As a transactional lawyer with more than 15 years of practice under my belt, any guide would be incomplete without a few important caveats.

1.  The Guide isn’t intended to be a comprehensive list of every wine I believe worthy of your consideration. It represents a selection of the better wines available across different pricing tiers; each of which I recommend and believe worthy of your Pesach table.  As you all know, my weekly missives are titled recommendations since I only write about wines I like.  As such, wines previously recommended and not on this list still carry my stamp of approval (unless they are past their recommended drinking window).

2.  Broadly speaking, almost every wine made by Flam, Gvaot, Hajdu, Recanati, Tzora and Yatir is worth buying (Dalton and Matar close behind), even if they aren’t listed below. Additionally, many of last year’s wines are still available on the shelves and remain in top drinking condition so check out last year’s list for additional suggestions and/or vintages.

3.  Some wines may only be available either in Israel or the US and are marked as such. While there remain a number of wines that remain available only in their indigenous countries (e.g. Four Gates, Hajdu and Shira in the US and Mia Luce in Israel), the vast majority of recommendable Israeli wines are imported to the US these days (Shmita excepting) and most of the Herzog/Royal wines that were formerly “US Only” wines, are exported to Israel, making this list more useful across the broadly disparate geographic location of my 10,000 readers.

4. Due to the disparate geographical disbursement of my reader base, the listed vintages may be different depending on which part of the world your shopping cart is located in (although vintages tend to also shift from local retailer to retailer and distributor to distributor, depending on how much of the prior vintage they have left in stock). Especially for Israeli wines, different vintages are available in Israel and outside of Israel.  Where more than one vintage is readily available and still recommendable, I have listed both (I have also noted specific vintages to avoid).

5.  It is always best practice to consult me before buying a recommended wine from a different vintage but in this case, given the fluctuation in quality of recent vintages and potential shipping/storage issues, I’d be even more careful than usual when utilizing this list to purchase non-listed vintages.

6.  Prices can fluctuate wildly among the various markets so I average to determine the tier each wine falls into. However, listed wines in your local market may not always fall exactly within the listed price points (online price-checking is always a good idea as is asking retailers to match listed prices).

7.  To ensure the practical functionality of this list, I have not included wines only available to wine club members and have significantly reduced the number of listed wines that aren’t generally available.

Seder Drinking Conundrum

Despite being at the top of any listing of an oenophile’s favorite customs, the tradition to consume four full cups of wine at the Seder brings a host of problems whose solutions can require a bit of advance thought and careful planning.

First and foremost is that four cups of is a lot of wine to consume at one sitting (even for a five hour traditional Seder), especially given the fact that the first two cups are typically imbibed on an empty stomach.  Another issue stems from the tradition of using a silver goblet for Kiddush (and the rest of the cups).  While the easy solution of pouring the wine into a proper wine glass immediately following the recital of Kiddush works beautifully on a regular Shabbat or holiday, the lengthy Hagada ensures far more contact with the silver during the Seder.  Other issues are caused by the common traditions of using only red wine and avoiding mevushal wines during the Seder.

With the Seder representing one of the most important meals on the Jewish calendar, people try to have the nicest (and typically the most expensive) wines possible, creating yet another potential conundrum.  Despite being among the kosher wine world’s best, the top tier Bordeaux, Israel and California wines are not going to be properly appreciated giving the hurried manner in which most of the Seder’s four cups are mandated to be consumed.  Many of the better wines are full-bodied, oak aged and boldly flavored; attributes not very conducive to Seder drinking.  Between the empty stomach with which most people approach the first two cups, the halachik requirement to consume nearly an entire cup of wine rather rapidly and the need to keep a roomful of over-stimulated children from re-enslaving us all; most Sederim offer far-from-ideal conditions for enjoying such magnificent wines.

The Perfect Solution

Therefore, I suggest saving the more expensive wines for leisurely drinking during Shulchan Aruch (i.e. the actual meal) and the plethora of subsequent holiday meals while finding other worthy options for the four cups.  Being a traditionalist, my personal custom is sticking with red wines for all four cups (although Rosé is a terrific compromise on all fronts), while using a few basic principles to choose the proper wines.  Despite the less than adequate conditions mandated by our traditions, Seder night is one of the most exalted evenings we get to spend in G-d’s company, while celebrating our freedom from oppressive slavery and the coalescing of the Jewish People into a nation with collective responsibility for one another.  As such top quality wine is still a pre-requisite.  The tradition of large family gatherings that started with the first Seder continues unabated today, often resulting in a widely disparate range of palate preferences.  Given the large numbers, to satisfy all comers (and to avoid fielding the inevitable questions about the horrid blue bottled abomination), I focus on affordable medium bodied quality wines that are highly approachable and enjoyable even without any oenophilic sophistication.  Over the years, my “go-to” Seder wines have included Israeli Petite Sirah from Dalton and Recanati, Spanish wines from Capcanes and ElviWines like the Peraj Petita and Rioja and Galil Mountain’s Yiron.  To the extent you are looking for well-priced and versatile white (or Rosé); good bets will be Rosé from Netofa, Recanati and Dalton, Sauvignon Blanc from Yarden, Covenant and Goose Bay, Pinot Grigio from Yarden and Dalton, Jacques Capsouto’s Eva Blanc and Carmel’s Riesling under the Kayoumi label.  The Nik Weis Riesling would be a great fit as well but personally, I’m not going to be consuming German wine at the Seder.

Parting Advice

During this busy buying season, retailers pull out all the stops to bring in your dollars with big sales everywhere.  Between the increasing competition and online availability of most top-notch kosher wines, most wine merchants will match any published price, so always ask your favorite retailer to match the prices you have seen elsewhere and, if you aren’t happy with the price – ask for a discount.

With all the explanations behind us, I present my:

Annual Pesach Kosher Wine Buying Guide

Under $17.99

This range includes many good, enjoyable wines.  With few exceptions, these wines aren’t complex or cellar worthy.  With oak barrels representing a significant percentage of a wine’s cost (actual cost and the time-value of aging), many of these wines have spent little to know time in oak (although oak chips can provide certain benefits without the heavy costs) contributing to their lower prices.  Along with focusing on “Safe Bet” wineries, varieties less popular than Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay tend to be cheaper given their relative lack of familiarity.  As such, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Roussanne and Gewürztraminer will usually provide better bang for your buck and are good places to look for bargains.

Most of the wines on these lists qualify as YH Best Buys (wines especially worthy of your hard-earned cash).

1.  Abarbanel, Cabernet Sauvignon, France, 2016 [US / mevushal]
2.  Barkan, Classic, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 [mevushal]
3.  Borgo Reale, Cantina Gabriele, Pinot Grigio, 2016 (also 2017 Rose) [both US / mevushal]
4.  Borgo Reale, Primitivo Salento, 2014 [US / mevushal]
5.  Capcanes, Peraj Petita, 2016 [mevushal option also OK] (also the 2017 Rosé)
6.  Cantina Giuliano, Chianti, 2016 (also 2017 Costa Toscana Vermentino)
7.  Carmel, Appellation, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014 (also 2016 Four Vats [Israel])
8.  Carmel, Selected, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 (also Mediterranean Red Blend) [both mevushal]
9.  Château Bellerives Dubois, White, Bordeaux, 2016 [US / mevushal]
10. Château Le Petit Chaban, Bordeaux, 2016 [US / mevushal]
11. Château Les Riganes, Bordeaux, 2016 [US / mevushal]
12. Dalton, Estate, Pinot Gris, 2016 (also 2016 Chenin Blanc)
13. Dalton, Estate, Rosé, 2017
14. ElviWines, InVita, 2016 (also 2016 Rioja Semi-Crianza)
15. Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla in Israel), Brut, n.v.
16. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Pinot Grigio, 2017 (also 2017 Sauvignon Blanc)
17. Goose Bay, Chardonnay, 2016 [mevushal]
18. Gush Etzion, Lone Oak, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016
19. Hagafen, Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 (also Lake County Riesling) [US / mevushal]
20. Herzog, Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 2016 [mevushal]
21. Herzog, Baron Herzog, Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, 2016 [mevushal]
22. Jezreel Valley, Levanim, White Blend, 2016
23. Koenig, Riesling, Alsace, 2015 [US / mevushal]
24. Lanzur, Chardonnay, Chile, 2016 (also 2015 Pinot Noir) [US / mevushal]
25. Sainte Beatrice, Instant B, Rosé, 2017 [Europe]
26. Tabor, Mount Tabor, Rosé, 2017
27. Terra Di Seta, Meshi, Rosé, Toscana, 2016 (also 2014 Chianti Classico)
28. Terra Vega, Pinot Noir, Chile, 2016 [mevushal]
29. Tres Buhis, Tempranillo, Yecla Valley, 2016 [US / mevushal]
30. Vitkin, Israel Journey, White, 2016

$18-29.99

This tier is my personal sweet spot and I had over 100 potential wines before I culled the list.  As the average price of a quality bottle of kosher wine continues to surge, it’s refreshing to find a number of wineries valiantly trying to hold their ground at affordable.  While most great wines remain over $30, there are plenty of great ones here.  In general, I find Carmel, Dalton, ElviWines, the Golan Heights Winery, Recanati and the wines under Herzog’s Special Reserve label to be consistent players in price range (while having terrific more expensive wines as well).

1,  Amos, Rose, 2017 [Israel (for now)]
2,.  Carmel, Single Vineyard, Riesling, Kayoumi, 2014 [US] / 2016 [Israel]
3.  Chateau de Parsac, Montagne Saint-Émilion, 2014 [US / mevushal]
4.  Château de Beaulieu, Montagne Saint-Émilion, 2012 [US]
5.  Château Fourcas Dupre, 2015 [US]
6.  Château Picampeau, Saint-Émilion, 2012 [US]
7.  Covenant, Mensch, 2016 [US / mevushal] (also 2016 Red C Sauvignon Blanc)
8.  Covenant, Zahav, 2016
9.  Dalton, Alma, Ivory, 2016 (also 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon)
10. Dalton, Reserve, Viognier, 2016 (also 2013 Alma Crimson)
11. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja (Crianza), 2012
12. Eviatar, Petit Verdot, 2014 [Israel]
13. Flam, Blanc, 2017 (also the 2017 Rosé)
14. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2009 (also 2014 Katzrin Chardonnay)
15. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014
16. Gush Etzion, Spring River, Red Blend, 2014
17. Gvaot, Jandali, 2016 [Israel]
18. Hagafen, Pinot Noir, Coombsville, 2016 (also 2017 Don Ernesto Rosé [both mevushal]
19. Hagafen, Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 (also 2017 Dry Riesling) [both mevushal]
20. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2015 (also 2015 Russian River Chardonnay) [mevushal]
21. Jacques Capsouto, Cotes de Galilee Village, Cuvee Samuel, 2016 (also 2016 Cuvee Marco Blanc)
22. Jezreel, Argaman, 2015 [Israel / Shmita]
23. Kishor, Kerem Kishor, Rosé, 2017 [Israel]
24. Les Marronniers Chablis 2016 [US / mevushal]
25. Lewis Pasco, The Pasco Project, BDX, 2016
26. Matar, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, 2016
27. Netofa, Domaine Netofa, Rosé, 2017 (also 2017 Domaine Netofa White) [both Israel]
28. Nik Weis, St. Urbans-Hof, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Saar, 2016 [US]
29. Or Haganuz, Amuka, Rosé, 2017
30. Porto Quevedo, Ruby Port, n.v. [US]
31. Recanati, Gris de Marselan, Rosé, 2017 [Israel]
32. Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Petite Sirah, 2014
33. Shiloh, Privilege, Winemakers Blend, 2016 [mevushal]
34. Shirah, Vintage Whites, 2016 [US]
35. Tabor, Single Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, Yosef, 2016 [Israel]
36. Tura, Mountain Vista, Rose, 2017 (also 2014 Heartland)
37. Tzafona Cellars, Nava. Blanc, 2016 [US / mevushal]
38. Tzora, Judean Hills, White (also Red), 2016
39. Vitkin, Vitkin Series, Petite Sirah, 2015 [Israel / shmita] (also 2016 Pinot Noir)
40. Weingut von Hövel, Riesling, Kabinett, Saar, 2015 [US]
41. Weinstock, Cellar Select, Chardonnay, Clarksburg, 2016 [US / mevushal]

$30-49.99

While a lot of good options sit in this category, many of them really should be priced in the lower range but have crept up in price for no justifiable reason.  It’s harder to sell wines in this price range than the one above or below it.  It’s also nearly impossible to find a YH Best Buy in this range.  As with most higher-end wines, especially those with a year or more of barrel aging, these need time to open up (often the current vintage should be regulated to a few years of aging since it simply isn’t ready for prime-time).  In any event, do yourself a favor and get a decanter to ensure that you are obtaining maximum benefit from these wines in the event that you don’t or cannot cellar them before enjoying.

1.  Adir, Kerem Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014
2.  Bat Shlomo, Regavim, Red Blend, 2016
3.  Carmel, Mediterranean, 2012
4.  Champagne Drappier, Brut Nature, Pinot Noir, Zero Dosage, n.v. [Europe (for now)]
5.  Château Gazin Rocquencourt, Pessac-Léognan, 2015 [US]
6.  Château Haut-Brisson, Saint-Émilion, 2014 [US]
7.  Château Marquisat de Binet, Cuvee Abel, Montagne St. Émilion, 2012 [US]
8.  Covenant, Lavan, Chardonnay, 2014
9.  Domaine du Castel, “C”, Chardonnay, 2016 (also 2014 Petite Castel)
10. Drappier, Carte D’Or, Brut, n.v.
11. ElviWines, EL26, 2015
12. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Pinot Noir, 2016 (also 2016 Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon)
13. Hagafen, Brut Rose, 2015 [US / mevushal]
14. Hajdu, Hajdu, Syrah, 2014 (also 2015 Port) [both US]
15. Jacques Capsouto, Cotes de Galilee Village, Cuvee Marco, Grand Vin Rouge, 2014
16. Kishor Vineyards, Riesling (Dry), 2017 (also the 2015 Red Savant [shmita]) [both Israel]
17. Mia Luce, Syrah and Stems, 2015 [Israel / shmita]
18. Netofa, Domaine Netofa, Ruby Port, 2012 [Israel]
19. Netofa, Latour Netofa, Red, 2014
20. Pascal Bouchard, Chablis, 2016 [US / mevushal]
21. Recanati, Special Reserve, Red, 2014 (and 2016 White)
22. Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Ancient Grapes, Bituni, 2016 (also 2016 Marawi)
23. Shirah, Black & Blue, Syrah, 2014 (also 2015 Coalition) [US]
24. Terra di Seta, Assai, Chianti Classico, 2012
25. Tzora, Shoresh, Red, 2015 [shmita] / 2016 (also 2016 Shoresh White)
26. Tzora, Or, 2012 [Israel]
27. Yaacov Oryah, Iberian Dream, Gran Reserva, 2011 (also 2015 Eye of the Storm [shmita]) [both Israel]
28. Yaacov Oryah, Old Musketeer, Sweet White Wine, 2008 [Israel / shmita]
29. Yatir, Viognier, 2016
30. Yatir, Syrah, 2013 [also the 2013 Petit Verdot]

Over $50

Over the decade of producing the Guide, many deserving wines were repeatedly excluded because they were priced over $50 and didn’t quite make the exalted “Moshiach Wine” club.  Whether any particular wine is “worth it” is a subjective matter with a newsletter all to itself, these are great wines that will bring great pleasure while properly honoring your Pesach experience.  Even more than the prior tier, proper aeration and cellaring will have a huge impact of extracting maximum pleasure from these wines.

1.  Carmel, Limited Edition, 2012
2.  Capcanes, La Flor del Flor, Garnacha (Grenache), 2014
3.  Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac, 2015
4.  Château Haut-Condissas, Médoc, 2014
5.  Chateau Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Léognan, 2014
6.  Château de la Clide, Saint-Émilion, 2011 [US]
7.  Château Moulin Riche, Saint Julien, 2015
8.  Château Tour Saint Christophe, Saint-Émilion, 2014 [US]
9.  Dalton, Matatia, 2013
10. Domaine Roses Camille, Echo de Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2012 [US]
11. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja, Reserva, 2009 / 2010 [US]
12. Four Gates, Merlot, La Rochelle, 2013 (also 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon) [US]
13. Goblet Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendicino County, 2015 [US]
14. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 2013
15. Gush Etzion, Blessed Valley, Special Reserve, Red Wine, 2012
16. Gvaot, Masada, 2014
17. Herzog, Generation VIII, Cabernet Sauvignon, Padis Vineyard, Oak Knoll, 2014
18. Herzog, Single Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll, 2015 (also 2014 Spring Mountain) [US]
19. Matar, CB, 2014
20. Netofa, Dor, 2016 (also the Tel Quasser Red Blend) [both Israel]
21. Shiloh, Mosaic, 2014 [mevushal but also non-mevushal] (also Yehoshafat Hero’s Edition]
22. Shirah, Power to the People, 2014 [US]
23. Terra Gratia, Red Wine, 2015 [US]
24. Tulip, Black Tulip, 2014
25. Tura, Mountain Peak, 2013

Moshiach Wines (for more Moshiach Wines, check out my Best Wines of 2017)

Moshiach wines are the really special wines that represent top-notch winemaking and plenty of patience on the consumer’s part to allow the wines the additional aging time in the bottle before the wine showcases all it can be (and the perfection intended by the winemaker).  Unfortunately as our world continues to devolve into the pursuit for instant gratification, the terrible crime of consuming high-end wines shortly after they are purchased is a crying shame.  While certain top tier wines are structured for immediate consumption and long-term aging, a few years of aging nearly always does good things for these wines and is worth the extra time, effort and patience.  With the continued global expansion of my Rosh Chodesh Club concept (over 20 regular monthly meetings worldwide), more and more folks and getting to experience the immense pleasure derived from properly aged mature wines and with the recognition that a few years of storage can yield a stratospheric ROI, many more wines are finding their way to the cellar instead of the table upon purchase – which is a great thing!

Please note that some of the Moshiach wines are very limited edition wines that may not be easily available at your local retailer.  While they may be a tad difficult to lay your hands on, I promise they are all worth the extra effort and additional expense.  Additionally and as is the case with many of the best wines, many become Moshiach wines only after a few years of aging.  As older vintages (that have been stored properly) are somewhat difficult to come by, the list includes the current vintage for many of the wines and, for a number of the wines I have included (at least one of) the vintages that makes the wine fit for the Moshiach (buy the current vintages, store them properly for a few years and voila – house-made Moshiach wines).

1.  Capcanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, 2015 (2008, 2009)
2.  Château de Valandraud, Saint-Émilion, 2005
3.  Château Giscours, Margaux, 2015 (2003)
4.  Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 2001
5.  Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 2014
6.  Château Lascombes, Margaux, 2015
7.  Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2015 (2005)
8.  Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2003
9.  Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, 2014 (2000, 2009)
10. Covenant, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2015 (2009)
11. Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, 2014 (2008 [Israel / shmita])
12. Domaine Rose Camille, Pomerol, 2012 (2005, 2006)
13. ElviWines, Clos Mesorah, 2015 (2010) [US]
14. Falesco, Marciliano, Cabernet, Umbria 2005 (also the 3 other 2005/2006 Falesco wines) [US]
15. Flam, Noble, 2013 (2011)
16. Four Gates, Frere Robaire, 2013 (2011) [US]
17. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 2013 (2008 [shmita])
18. Gvaot, Gofna, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014 (2011)
19. Hajdu, Proprietary Red, 2015 (2011) [US]
20. Herzog, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone Six, 2015 (2007)
21. Tzora, Misty Hills, 2015 (2008) [both shmita]
22. Yatir, Forest, 2013 (2008 [shmita])

This week includes my annual list of the best wines I tasted during the 2017 calendar year.  As is my annual custom, I also list the most exciting and/or interesting wines I tasted throughout the year, many of which give more pleasure than some of their “near-perfect” brethren who are included in the former, more prestigious, list.

With the number of wines I tasted this year (2,531) once again surpassing the number tasted the previous year (2,085), it is safe to say the world of kosher wine continues to evolve, grow and improve and there are great things ahead for the industry.  The kosher wine consumer base continues to grow in size and purchasing power while developing more of an appreciation for better wines.  These developments and many others will be discussed in the next editions of my Annual Trifecta; a summary of the 2017 wine year and my crystal-ball analysis of what 2018 will bring.

Given that I taste many wines well in advance of their official release, it’s worth checking out last year’s “Best of” list for some of the best wines that are currently on the market.  A number of factors contribute to a significant delay between the bottling of a wine and its official release (including importers and retailers holding back new vintages until the prior vintage is depleted) and, as a result, certain of the wines listed below may not officially appear on the market for a while (but the wine’s from last year’s list should tide you over if needed).

The job of compiling these lists would be easier if I scored wines since I could simply list the ten wines I scored highest during the year.  However, given my well-known abhorrence for the practice of scoring wines (to the constant chagrin and complaint of many wineries and retailers), the task is significantly more complicated and thus, especially with my day job as a transactional corporate attorney, the following detailed caveats are required:

1.  In keeping with past practice, the list includes only wines I tasted for the first time during the 2017 calendar year (although barrel tastings from prior years that I tasted as final wines this year are included), with only final and bottled wines are eligible for this list.

2.  The list doesn’t include older vintages of wines I tasted for the first time throughout the year. With the 57th gathering of the Rosh Chodesh Club behind us and our fifth anniversary just around the corner (along with tremendous global growth), the list would be overrun with many of the magnificently cellared wines enjoyed at RCC’s 20 franchises over the last 12 months.

3.  A handful of wineries are constantly producing so many terrific wines that the list could be comprised solely of their wines (g. Capcanes, Covenant, ElviWines, Flam, Hajdu and Tzora). With the recent influx of high-end French wines (another topic that will be discussed in depth in the coming newsletters), they represent the highest percentage f this list ever.  However, in order to reflect the wonderful diversity of today’s quality kosher wines, I have limited the number of entries by any specific winery to ensure a more inclusive (and comprehensive) list.

4.  Once again, I decided to avoid wines of such exceptional rarity as to render them impractical for the bulk of readers. As such, wines I personally tasted and loved throughout the year that were non-commercial (g. Napa Valley Reserve 2014), exceptionally rare or [currently] only available in limited markets (e.g. the 2012 Gevry-Chambertin Pinot Noir from Domaine D’Ardhuy in Burgundy or the new Rieslings from the non-Nik Weis Gefen Hashalom wineries) aren’t included.

5.  Reflecting the geographically widely disparate location of my over 9,000 readers (approximately 70% US, 15% Israel and 10% spread throughout the rest of the world), some of the wines may not be readily available in one market or another (a winery’s flagship wine(s) are typically produced in relatively small quantities and thus sell out fast or are not exported).

6.  Despite my best intentions and efforts, four children and a rather demanding day-job continue to limit my wine-tasting travel and I wasn’t able to taste every one of the more than 3,300 kosher wines released this year. Combined with a slowly failing memory, these lists aren’t 100% set in stone and there are dozens of other worthy-wines worthy of your time, attention and wallet.

And, onto the wines!

Best Wines of 2017 (in alphabetical order)

Capcanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, Flor de Primavera, Montsant, 2015:  As noted above, Capcanes is one of those wines that make a play for this list every year, usually getting its way and 2015 was no exception.  As always, a blend of the winery’s three varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Carignan (the latter two also bottled as individual varietals in the La Flor series), with this years blend around 55% Grenache, 30%  Carignan and approximately 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.  With even more Grenache than the 2014’s already increased percentage, Jürgen’s love of the floral elegance and supple finesse the varietal brings to the blend is obvious.  Deep, rich and extracted on both the nose and full bodied palate with loads of rich black fruit, tar, floral notes, lavender, dark chocolate, fresh-cracked black pepper and roasted game along with lovely bitter herbal notes on a bed of gripping yet supple tannins and great acidity that keeps things vibrant.  Layers of aromas reveal themselves slowly and lead into a mouth-filling and lingering finish.  A rich and powerful wines that is still coming into its own, and the high-quality grape and masterful winemaking ensure that the 15% AbV doesn’t get in the way.  Give this one until mid-2019 before opening and then enjoy through 2030, maybe longer.

Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac, 2015:  Another great French offering from the supremely approachable 2015 vintage year.  While “only” a Fifth Growth, it’s important to realize the ranking was based on futures pricing in 1855 and many great wines come from low (or un-)ranked tiers (the incredible Pontet-Canet is also a Fifth Growth) and it represents one of the highest available kosher offerings from the well-regarded Pauillac region (home to three of the five first Growth châteaux).  One of the wineries whose châteaux isn’t located within he vineyards, Grand-Puy Ducasse has vineyards spread throughout many prestigious areas of Pauillac and sources grapes from all of them to create the wine which typically spends 18 months in approximately 50% new French oak, with this wine clocking in at 14% AbV.  Despite being planted with 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot this wine is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with only a bit of Merlot mixed in.  Like many of its 2015 brethren, the wine opens with an expressive and voluptuous nose of rich and ripe black cassis, crushed blackberry, plums and dark cherries with rich dark chocolate, nuanced herbal notes and earthy minerals providing lovely complexity along with cigar-box wood and freshly sharpened pencil.  The full-bodied palate is highly extracted, rich and deep and needs plenty of time to settle down before it will be ready for prime time and culminates in a finish that lingers nearly forever.  With powerful tannins providing great backbone for the rich fruit and plenty of lovely acidity in balance with the oak and tannins, this is a beautiful and elegant wine for the ages that will be enjoyable for many stops along the way as well.  Drink 2025-2035.

Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 2014:  Different from the red wines of Bordeaux and attributable to the exalted status of Château d’Yquem, the ranking of white wines (which includes the dessert wines of Sauternes) included an extra-special tier about First Growth – that of a Superior First growth, the sole beneficiary of which was d’Yquem.  However, due to this anomaly, the kosher wine world benefited from First Growth Bordeaux after all.  Initially this title was held only by Château Guiraud (which produced kosher cuvées for 1999, 2000 and 2001) but was joined by three new options for the 2014 vintage (with more on the way), the best of which is this wine (all three were reviewed in my Rosh Hashanah newsletter earlier this year) resulting in an extremely gorgeous and elegant Sauternes.  Different from most of the vineyards in France, Château La Tour Blanche is owned by the state and also includes a school of oenology and viticulture onsite.  At 5%, its vineyards contain one of the highest concentrations of Muscadelle in all of Bordeaux.  The wine is comprised of 80% Sémillon that spent 16-18 months in 35% new French oak along with 15% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle which spent the same amount of time in stainless steel before being blended on the bottling line.  Loads of dried tropical fruit, ripe green fig, sweet heather, crème brûlée, honeycomb and luscious notes of lemon cream are enhanced by notes of orange blossom, ginger and honeysuckle on a lovely and tantalizing nose.  Great balancing acidity keeps the wine vibrant and fresh and bodes exceptionally well for its longevity with more of the same on the unctuous and luscious palate joined by crystallized ginger root, caramelized hazelnuts, cream, peaches and characteristic botrytis funkiness, culminating in a long and lingering spice-tinged finish.  While the wine can provide enjoyment at this stage it would literally be a crime not to give it the time it needs and deserves.  Hold at least until 2020 then enjoy through 2040, maybe longer

Château Lascombes, Margaux, 2015:  One of the many new French arrivals coming to your local kosher wine retailer in a few months.  As will be discussed in depth in my summarizing newsletters, kosher French wine is making a huge comeback with many new top tier options on the market for vintages 2014 – 2016.  With 2015 a particularly approachable vintage yielding more than its fair share of floozies, it will be easy for increasingly sophisticated consumers to get behind this new slate of French wines with Château Lascombes best-suited for this given its position as the most New-World of all Margaux châteaux.  While 2015 hasn’t yielded a kosher First Growth wine yet, Lascombes joins the growing list of Second Growth châteaux who have produced kosher cuvées (the others being Château Rauzan-Gassies, Château Léoville-Poyferré, St.-Julien and Château Gruaud-Larose.  A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, the wine typically spends 18 months in approximately 80% new French oak and clocks in at 14% AbV (reflecting the riper vintage).  The wine open with a rich and expressive nose loaded with ripe raspberries and plums along with rich crushed black fruits, dark chocolate, warm cedar, freshly cured tobacco, lead pencil, warm brown spices along with nuances of toasted oak, roasted hazelnuts and a whiff of anise.  The full-bodied palate is plush and voluptuous with gripping tannins and good acidity is near-perfect harmony with the rich fruits and most of the same notes form the expressive nose along with pungent mushrooms, rich dark forest floor and a lovely salinity providing complexity on the multi-layered palate that reveals itself over the course of hours.  Despite the somewhat remarkable approachability, this is a powerful and robust wine with plenty of gas in the tank for long term magnificent aging.  Drink 2022-2035.

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac Léognan, 2014:  Different from many Bordeaux estates, Smith Haut Laffite produced both red and white wines (with approximately 86% devoted to red wine production).  While there was only one kosher cuvée ever produced of the white wine (for the vintage year 2004), the château d has released a kosher red cuvée for the 1995, 2000, 2000, 2009 and 2014 vintages.  Following on the voluptuous and approachable 2009 vintage of this wine which has achieved near cult-status in the kosher wine world, the 2014 returns to the Old World style the winery is known for.  The highly extracted nose is loaded with rich notes of mostly black fruit, cigars, anise, lack olives, saline minerals and pungent forest floor with nuances of smoky oak, roasted meat and Oriental spices.  The full-bodied palate has caressing tannins that need plenty of time to integrate but hold great promise of long-lived harmony and balance with much of the nose present long with caramelized almonds, roasted coffee, more black olives, a touch of herbacousness and layers of complexity that take hours to reveal themselves culminating in a long-lingering finish.  Drink 2025-2040.

Covenant, Solomon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lot 70, 2014:  With plenty of ink already spilled on the wine’s “name”, this note focuses on the wine itself.  Labeled by the editors of Food & Wine as “the best kosher Cab made in the U.S.” while remaining a “world class wine”.  While I am not ready to crown it the best of a class of 2014 that showcases some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon I have seen to date out of California (with Herzog having some amazing stuff in their lineup as well), I wholeheartedly concur with the second part – this is a terrific wine sourced from Leslie Rudd’s Oakville estate vineyard and certainly a step up from the already lovely “regular” Covenant.  The wine spent 18 months in 50% new French oak and presents at 14.5% AbV with an extracted and voluptuous nose loaded with crushed black forest fruits, ripe black cherries, cassis and chocolate alongside slightly smoky oak, anise, rich minerals and pungent earthiness while retaining that hint of herbaceousness that typifies Covenant’s offerings, with enough time one could lose himself in the aromas alone.  However that would be a shame as the extracted and full bodied palate has plenty to offer as well with rich, dark and deep fruits alongside complex layers of herbs, spices, anise and more chocolate that slowly evolve if they are given enough time.  While enjoyable now, I’d recommend giving the wine at least another six months before opening after which it should cellar nicely through 2025.

Flam, Noble, 2013:  Since the first kosher release for the 2010 vintage year, this wine has been a perennial participant in this annual list.  Given its indented personification of Golan flam’s winemaking expression, the success shouldn’t come as any sort of surprise.  With the winery’s entire portfolio typifying restraint and elegance, Flam’s flagship offering showcases the best they can do and certainly lives up to being “the prime of the premium” – an apt descriptor coined by Israel Flam.  It is interesting to note that while many Israeli winemakers are shying away from the Bordeaux varietals in a search for grapes more suited to the hotter Mediterranean climate, three of Israel’s top wineries (Castel, Tzora and Flam) continue to make restrained and elegant top tier wines from these varietals.  A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 9% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot, the various components were vinified separately and spent 18 months in 85% new French oak before being blended and returned to the barrels for another six months.  Keeping with the wine’s tradition, it was then bottle-aged for an additional two years in the winery’s cellar before being released.  Despite being a “Judean Hills Winery”, Flam continues to source a portion of its grapes for this wine from its better Upper Galilee vineyards located in Kayoumi and Dishon (along with their Judean Hills Mata vineyard) and Golan feels this is the best Noble yet.  With their 2014 Reserve Merlot being among the best of the bunch, I was happy to see the increased percentage of Merlot in the wine, giving it more power than the 2012 while retaining the characteristic elegance and complexity.  The wine opens with a rich nose of near-sweet red crushed fruit tinged with warm spices, nuanced toasty oak and hints of dark chocolate, cedar wood and a light overlay of roasted herbs.  The medium to full bodied palate is elegant and refined with nicely integrating tannins providing ample backbone for the deep fruit and layered complexity with a pleasing bitterness that rises and plays out through the supple and lingering finish is tinged with rich dark chocolate and Oriental spices with a whiff of herbaceousness that pleases.  Truly a beautiful wine and I’d agree with Golan that it’s his best effort to date.  Drink 2020-2028.

Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone Six, 2014:  As evidenced by another California Cabernet Sauvignon on this list, 2014 was truly a special year in California for the varietal and this year’s Clone Six is truly delightful.  Sourced from the acclaimed Chalk Hill region of Sonoma, the wine spent 18 months in new French oak an is superbly balanced with great acidity backing up the rich, extracted and near-sweet fruit.  Rich, deep and brooding, the wine is very approachable with lovely extracted red and black crushed forest fruits, spicy oak, tart raspberries, rich cassis, black currents, potent notes of black pepper and pencil shavings along with nuances of fresh-paved asphalt, roasted meat, anise and a whiff of smoky oak.  A lingering finish is redolent of more rich red fruit, warm spices and dark chocolate.  Truly a magnificent wine and one of the best Herzog offerings so load up if you can and please, give the wine the cellaring time it deserves that will enable you to enjoy all that was intended by its creator.  Drink 2019 – 2026

Tzora, Misty Hills, 2015:  Another wine that earns its way onto this list with relative ease.  Given the winery’s history of careful excellence, one shouldn’t be surprised that nearly every vintage at Tzora shows improvement over the prior, regardless of the quality of the particular vintage in question.  Eran Pick’s meticulous nature combined with a certain level of humility that enables him to continue learning from the terroir and improving on his incredible creation are likely partially responsible for the continuous uptick in quality (in addition to the consulting advice from Chateau Petrus’ retired winemaker – Jean-Claude Berrouet), but regardless of their genesis I can only say thank you.  Taking its name from the early morning fog that is often blanketing the “Fossil Vineyard’ from which the grapes are sourced (and only the best plots from the vineyard are utilized for the flagship wine), this year’s blend is comprised of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Syrah (see my note for the noble above with respect to the continued use of Bordeaux varietals by these wineries) which spent two years in French oak.  The dust storm of 2015 wreaked havoc on most Israeli wineries and Eran’s decision to harvest a little earlier has paid dividends in the form on a more austere wine than ever before (including from the colder than usual vintage of 2011) with subtlety and restraint being the hallmark of this Über professionally-made wine.  Give the wine a little air and you will be rewarded with a rich nose of mostly red fruit with some dark black fruit nuances providing pleasing complexity alongside floral notes and typical roasted herbs with black pepper, earthy minerals and a whiff of minty chocolate completing the picture.  The palate is medium to full bodied and surprisingly approachable with elegant tannins nicely integrated and showcasing good acidity alongside the pungent forest floor, tart red fruit, hint of slightly toasted oak and rich chocolate.  A long chocolate and herbal-laced finish is supple and with a pleasing bitterness on the finish.  Drink 2019 – 2025 [Shmittah].

Yatir, Forest, 2013:  The winery’s flagship blend continues to be well-deserving of its position in the portfolio and was recently selected (along with Flam’s 2013 Noble reviewed above) by Jancis Robinson as one of her favorites from a recent tasting in Israel of local wines.  This year’s blend is comprised of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Petit Verdot harvested from the winery’s dessert vineyards located upwards of 900 meters high.  The high percentage of Petit Verdot is helpful in maintaining the wine’s characteristic profile of an iron first in a velvet glove.  A subtle but extracted nose of primarily dark fruits with sun-warmed sage and rosemary providing nuanced complexity to the toasty oak, cigar-box tobacco and warm cedar.  Nice black pepper, mocha and hints of red fruit add to the layers that slowly reveal themselves over time on the elegant yet powerfully built full-bodied palate.  Gripping tannins are still integrating and will continue to provide a solid structure on which the rich and controlled fruit will express itself for years to come as the wine presents in great harmony and with the elegant balance we have come to expect from Yatir’s Eran Goldwasser.  A luscious finish lingers long.  Drink 2019-2027.

Most Interesting / Exciting Wines of 2017 (in alphabetical order)

Château Forcas Dupre, Listrac-Medoc, 2015:  A lovely wine which makes this list given its incredible QPR, presenting as a French Bordeaux blend that punches well above its retail price.  The wine spent 12 months in 33% new French oak and presents on the nose with plenty of rich black fruits including blackberry, black current and boysenberry on the nose along with a subtle salinity that pleases and enhanced with grilled meat, loamy earth and earthy minerals.  The medium bodied palate is fresh and vibrant with tart red fruit added to the mix and backed by juicy acidity and nicely integrating tannins along with roasted herbs, fresh-cracked black pepper and just-rolled fat cigars.  A long finish has dark chocolate, spice, earth and tobacco that lingers.  13% AbV.  Drink 2020-2030

De La Rosa, 613, Ashray Ice Wine, 2009:  I first encountered this label at KosherFest a few years ago where the few wines on offering were insufficient to garner my interest.  I was therefore happy to discover two Austrian Icewines at a tasting earlier in the year with this one being truly delightful.  De La Rosa Real Foods & Vineyards, is a family-owned business hailing from Austria who have been producing wines for nearly 800 years and named the company for the 18th century Sephardic kabbalist Rabbi Chaim De La Rosa of Salonika (since natural healing was a focus for him).

Hajdu, Counoise, Eaglepoint Ranch, 2014:  Recognizing the value of a wine club, Hajdu joined the growing number of wineries who have heeded my advice and launched these direct to consumer lines of communications, offering loyal customers the chance for special wines made available only in limited quantities.  Continuing his love of Rhone varietals, Jonathan included this Rhone Valley varietal with his first offering of the adventurer’s Guild.  Counoise is one of the 14 varietals allowed in of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with Château de Beaucastel’s Perrin family being such big proponents of the grape that nearly 5% of their blend (known for using all 14 allowed varietals in the blend) is Counoise while also being responsible for bringing the grape to California (via their family owned grape nursery in the state).  This is the first (and to date, only) experience with the varietal as a stand alone offering so I was excited to try it, especially given Hajdu’s well-known talent.  A warm and rich red nose has plenty of cherries, cassis and warm brown spices which are noticeable on the medium bodied round palate with good acidity and supple tannins that lead into medium finish with tart raspberries and spices lingering nicely.  14.5% AbV.  Drink now through 2019.

Jezreel Valley, Dabuki, Pét-Nat, 2016:  To my knowledge, Jezreel currently makes the only kosher version of this genre and this was the first time I had ever tasted the genre for myself.  In addition to the novelty of the ancient grape coupled with ancient winemaking techniques, I enjoyed the wine as well, especially after it had some air and much of the cabbage-like funkiness blew off.  Even so, there was plenty of funk on the nose reminiscent of ripe cheese, wet earth, rain-slicked flint, minerals and some grassy notes.  Decent mousse and sufficient acid kept the wine alive while it aired out and sat in the glass over the course of the hour it was tasted where subtle green apple and slightly-sweet notes of melon developed. The funky notes were actually enjoyable (it smells like winemaking) and it was a fun experience with a low 11.5% AbV.  While not a wine I’d drink regularly, it was certainly an interesting and pleasing experience that I’d recommend to any interested oenophile and the winery is currently anticipating releasing two different Pet-Nat wines for the 2017 vintage, some of which will hopefully make its way to the United States [Only in Israel].

Nik Weis, St. Urbans-Hof, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Saar, 2016:  The third release from the German Nik Weis winery of a German Riesling as part of the “Gefen Hashalom” collaborative project between a number of Mosel vineyards (stay tuned for Rieslings Weingut von Hövel from the other two partners in the project – Hans Wirsching and Weingut von Hövel).  Due to various logistical issues, this year’s version hails from the superior Ockfener Bockstein vineyard resulting in a more complex and longer aging wine (in addition to the increased price tag).  Sourced from Mosel’s Saar sub-region, this elegant and light to medium bodied wine has a near-ethereal feel to it with great acidity backing up rich fruit and layers of complex aromas and flavors that tantalize.  Currently the wine needs some aerating in order to showcase its potential but allow it the time and you will be rewarded with rich notes of white stone fruit, rich sweet orange citrus notes and warm spices on a refined and elegant nose.  The palate is less viscous than the 2015 slightly sweeter vintage but is balanced by terrific crisp acidity and a depth of character that intrigues along with hints of limestone and flinty minerals.  While enjoyable now, the wine will only improve over the coming years and it would be a crying shame to miss out on its expected wondrous development so be sure to stash some bottles out of range to ensure longevity.  Drink now – 2026, likely longer [Only in the US].

Recanati, Single Vineyard, Ancient Grapes, Bittuni, 2016:  The name likely originated from the grape’s origin (one of two villages located near Chevron or Ramallah), the hardy grape is known to produce copious yields and with high levels of sugar, is one of the Arab world’s primary sources for raisins (I think we can all agree that the lovely wine is a better use for the grape).   50% of the wine was whole-cluster fermented, following which it spent approximately six months aging in one year old French oak barrels.  A lovely and lithe wine, it comes packed with bright fresh near-sweet notes of red fruit including cherries and plums, violets, light warm spices, soft tannins and great acidity.  Light to medium bodied, the wine is slightly reminiscent of Gamay (from which Beaujolais is made).  A perfect accompaniment to late evening summer meals (or anytime else) with the characteristically low alcohol (12% AbV) found is most of these revitalized ancient grapes.  Drink 2018-2020.  The third vintage (2016) of Recanati’s Marawi is worth mentioning as quality improves on an annual basis for this indigenous grape.

Tzora, Or, 2016:  If visiting one of Israel’s best wineries and meeting Israel’s only Master of Wine was enough of an incentive, this Ice Wine-styled treat is only sold at the winery and would be incentive enough on its own to visit the picturesque winery located in Kibbutz Tzora and sourcing its grapes from among the best Judean Hills’ vineyards.  The wine is made from 100% late-harvested and cyroextracted Gewürztraminer grapes sourced from the winery’s acclaimed Shoresh vineyard.  With a voluptuous and fresh nose of candied apricot, white peaches, guava, lychee, honeysuckle and candied pineapple and with sugared citrus, roasted nuts spices and lovely floral, most of which is present on the acid-loaded full-bodied and slightly viscous palate.  Drink now through 2024 [Only at the Winery].

Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Grenache Blanc, 2016:  With so few kosher options for Grenache Blanc, I was happy to add to my tasting repertoire a wine that is delicious in its own right.  Available only at the winery, this is another wine worth seeking out.  Sourced from vineyards located at an altitude of 700 meters above see level and blended with 10% Roussanne to give it a little extra backbone while still having it represent the “fattier” aspect of his portfolio – decadent and luxurious.  50% of the wine spent approximately five months in 50% new French oak to further buttress those characteristics.  With lovely bitter notes of flinty minerals providing some excitement on the palate along with lip-smacking citrus, ripe peach, lovely spices and tart/slightly under-ripe stone fruit, the wine has plenty of acidity and lip-smacking citrus notes all the way through the lingering finish and is well-worth the added effort to source a few bottles.  Drink 2018-2020 [Only at the Winery]

Yaacov Oryah, Old Musketeer, 2008: with a day job making clean and well-crafted wines for Psagot, Yaacov Oryah expresses his well-deserved reputation of unconventionality in the growing portfolio of wines bottled under his eponymous label.  While I am not yet convinced of the merit behind his planned focus on orange wines, I certainly appreciate the non-conventional winemaking method and mélange of wines produced.  Currently only available in Israel directly from Yaacov, these are certainly wines well-worth seeking out and bringing back to enjoy.  After revamping the port-style offering from Psagot (now marketed as “Devine” and after a serious qualitative upgrade, is well worth seeking out as well), Yaacov serves up one of the most intriguing dessert wines I have enjoyed to date.  A limited edition of 1,000 bottles, the wine is late harvested Muscat of Alexandria spent seven years aging in used oak barrels before being blended with 6% 2015 Chardonnay which provided acidity to back up the rich sweetness and balanced out the oxidized notes that give the wine its complexity and testify to its potential longevity.  The long-term aging is intended to allow the wine to slowly mature and oxidize providing it with complex flavors while also protecting it from future deterioration due to oxidization, thus prolonging its ageability.  Additional wines remains in barrels and Yaacov will likely bottle it in a few years as the wine continues to develop in the barrels.  A lively and aromatic nose and a full bodied and rich palate back by good acidity are both redolent of honeysuckle, blooming white flowers, crème brûlée, toasted hazelnuts, white chocolate, candied lemons, a hint of white pepper and expressive notes of tropical fruit all balanced by warm spices and spicy oak and a long lingering sweet finish that is enhanced by great spices and more developing complexity. 15.9% AbV.  Drink now through 2035, likely longer [Only in Israel / Shmittah].

#350 – November 22, 2017

As a wine writer and full-fledged oenophile, the chagim and seasonal weather changes are harbingers not only of wardrobe changes and an onslaught of meat-heavy grocery shopping but also curated wine and drinking adjustments.  With good wine playing a primary role in the positive vibe of any social gathering or festive meal, it shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone that wine selection takes up a significant amount of any good host’s time and effort.

As any reader worth his or her proverbial salt already knows, my general view is that folks should drink wines they enjoy with foods they like.  As discussed in my recent article on wine and food pairing, the “right” wine for any particular dish is the wine you are most in the mood for at any given time.  However, while the traditional wine-pairing “rules” may “be for the birds,” many of them are built on solid foundations and can be helpful as guidelines (as opposed to being set in stone)

Blame it on the Bird

Different from most chagim (other than perhaps Chanukah), the traditional Thanksgiving repast tends to forewarn increased stress levels.  While the primary cause of the elevated cortisol levels is usually a specific guest or relative, coming up with proper wine pairings is a common cause as well.  In addition to preparing a fowl with which most of us are relatively unfamiliar, a traditional Thanksgiving repast includes a mélange of dishes, with a focus on the turkey and traditionally fall-orientated trimming.  While the array of options provides your guests with sufficient choices to satisfy all manner of lifestyle choices, the wide-ranging scope of taste, flavor and texture options can throw a serious wrench in commonly used wine and food-pairing concepts, significantly complicating the wine pairing exercise.  Exacerbating the difficulty is the diverse range of palate preferences and oenophilic expertise, virtually guaranteed by the eclectic guest list.  Unless you are having an intimate meal where all participants are fellow wine lovers, Thanksgiving dinner usually isn’t the best place to showcase meticulous wines pairings.

That said, and regardless of the copious ink spilled on the topic, successfully incorporating wine into the meal is nowhere near the Herculean task some would have us all believe.  As any gathering of friends and family is enhanced with wine, this week’s article sets forth some tips and helpful suggestions for created the exalted environment guaranteed by good wine without any of the accompanying grief created by extra wine-pairing work.

One Inflexible Rule

The most important wine rule of any Thanksgiving meal is very simple – don’t run out of wine.  I’ve never heard of a family gathering ruined by the Turkey’s chili pepper glaze demolishing the young Bordeaux, but there are few things sadder than empty wine glasses at a festive meal.  Having leftover wine is way better that running out mid-meal (half-finished bottles can be sent home with guests as a parting gift or enjoyed during cleanup in your wonderfully quiet, post-meal, home).  A wine bottle yields between 4-6 glasses of wine, depending on the pourer’s generosity and I usually recommend buying one bottle per wine-drinking guest.  Giving the numerous sweet and savory dishes and diverse range of your guests’ palates and interest in wine, I highly recommend going with a mixed batch of red and white wines, taking into account the considerations listed below.  A sparkling wine to start things off works wonders to enhance the festive atmosphere and whet your guest’s appetite for the coming feast, and its versatility ensures you will be enjoying It throughout the meal as well.

Helpful Hints

As opposed to your usual robust dish-laden chag meal, for tomorrow’s dinner you are looking for lighter wines – lighter in alcohol, lighter in body (partially driven by alcohol level) and lighter in tannins.  Given the wine range of dishes, the more versatile the wine, the better.  For many, these meals are half-day affairs accompanied by near-endless snacking, plenty of drinking and a seemingly inexhaustible parade of relatives prying you’re your personal life.  As such, it’s important to serve wines that can go the distance and won’t wear you (and your palate) down early on in the process.

Low alcohol can be a subjective term, with younger drinkers considering anything under 14% AbV to fall into that category while more seasoned or older folks considering anything over 12.5% AbV to be an abomination.  For our purposes, any wine in the 13% range should suffice and in this case, less is more – the lower the alcohol and the lighter bodied the wine, the better.  Focusing lessor tannic wines will ensure you can appreciate the flavors and textures of more delicate dishes and, maintaining versatility as a primary goal, higher-acidity wines will do well with heartier dishes while providing a welcome palate-cleansing refreshingness regardless of what dishes you choose to partake in.

I’m sure you are all diligently working towards converting all of your friends and family to full-fledged oenophilia and, like me, are experiencing varying levels of success.  Regardless, chances are that most participants will be wine challenged to some degree (or worse – self identify as a Blue Bottled Abomination lover).  Proper glassware may not be available and it’s unlikely you will be able to properly decant the wines.  Together with the inevitable cacophony that usually accompanies such meals, your special (and expensive) bottles aren’t go to be properly appreciated, so avoid the heartache and aim for moderately priced wines.  Obviously, if you are lucky to be sharing this special meal with fellow wine lovers, by all means up your game and bring out some better wines, but avoid big, rich and complex wines – even if they would be appreciated, they are going to be bigger wines than appropriate for this type of wine.  Save them for a more intimate affair or your local RCC where they can shine in all their vinous glory.

The Specifics

Especially given its well-known versatility, Pinot Noir is an easy choice when searching for a grape varietal most likely to play nicely at your Thanksgiving dinner.  The wine’s savory and umami-laden notes of earthy minerals and grilled meat pair exceptionally well with traditional turkey and savory stuffing combinations and the bright acid and rich cherry flavors play nice with lighter dishes that may end up on the sweeter side of the spectrum.  Unfortunately quality options remain slim pickings but the there are some decent, currently available options hailing from Burgundy (Domaine d’Ardhuy and Damien Gachot-Monot), California (Hagafen [as the only kosher California winery hit during the fires, supporting them has extra value] and Four Gates) and Israel (Gvaot, Vitkin, Tura and the Golan Heights Winery’s Gamla version).

Another light-bodied wine that should be a shoo-in for Thanksgiving is Beaujolais.  With high acidity, low tannins, lovely fruit and an affordable price; it hits all the criteria for a successful pairing.  Unfortunately there are very few acceptable kosher options other than the 2013 Cote De Brouilly (the 2012 was reviewed last year).  Other options include Chianti (Italy’s Cantina Giuliano and Terra di Seta), Barbera (Israel’s Shiloh and Ramot Naftali)

Sticking with red wines, another popular option you hear bandied about this time of year is Zinfandel.  Unlike the other wines discussed, Zinfandel’s inclusion is more emotional than practical.  Ignoring its murky origins, many consider it to the quintessential American wine, making it perfect for our American holiday of Thanksgiving.  However, the varietal’s propensity to yield heavier wines and higher alcohol levels make it hard for me to recommend it as a good option, regardless of the symbolism involved.

While on the esoteric side, a great option would be Recanati’s newly released Bituni.  Next week’s newsletter will have an in-depth review of Israel’s pursuit of true indigenous grape varietals, including the newly-released Bituni.  In the interim, rest assured that the ancient grape’s low alcohol, great acidity and lovely fruitiness makes it a great match for Thanksgiving, with the only downside being its relatively higher sticker price.

White is Right

If you are sufficiently enlightened to avoid the “I only drink red wine” trap, your options are much broader and quite frankly, better.  The inherent differences between the two types of grape along with the different methods of winemaking, ensure that many more white wines fulfil the criteria above than their more opaque-colored siblings.  High acidity, relatively low alcohol, basically non-existent tannins and a more affordable price point are the hallmarks of good white wines.

From a versatility perspective, Pinot Noir’s white wine counterpart is Riesling, which for years represented the kosher wine world’s holy grail.  Thankfully these days there are more than a handful of solid choices, including a number hailing from the genre’s homeland of Germany.  For now only the Nik Weis outlined below is available in the US (the 2016 is the third kosher vintage for this wine, and the best yet), but the winery’s higher-ranked options are headed our way as well.  For those who understandably prefer to avoid German wines, there are some nice options from Alsace, Israel (Carmel and Vitkin) and California (Hagafen) as well.

Another easy-drinking wine that plays nice with many dishes is Pinot Grigio.  While usually regulated to the summer due to its extremely light-bodied nature and lack of complexity, there are some nice options that hit the spot and hail from around the globe.  Israel (Golan Heights Winery’s Yarden option, Gvaot and Dalton) and Italy (Borgo Reale and Cantina Gabriele) have some nice options.  Another wine that is oft-suggested for challenging pairing environments is Gewürztraminer, especially when dealing with spicy or other Asian flavors.  Personally, given the wine’s assertive flavors and personality, it is more of a hate it or love it wine, making it difficult to recommend for this type of meal.  If you are in the “love it” camp, solid versions are produced by Koenig, Lueria and the Golan Heights Winery, under the Yarden label.  ElviWine’s InVita, Bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc (Covenant, Hagafen, O’Dwyers Creek and Goose Bay) and unoaked Chardonnay (Domaine Les Marronniers) are other decent options.  Chenin Blanc would do in a pinch as well (Dalton and Domaine Netofa)

Contrarian and Perfect

While somewhat non-conforming, Rosé is one of the best pairing options out there.  Like Riesling, it hits all the high notes for the meal while also having wider appeal than its Germanic cousin.  As you all know, I wholeheartedly agree with Eric Asimov and strongly recommend enjoying Rosé all year round, with its extreme versatility providing a tailor-made solution to nearly any wine and food-pairing conundrum and its glorious color will complement your table beautifully.  Having achieved a level of popularity so extreme that it has been rendered “uncool” by some misanthrope wine snobs, wine producers have risen to the occasion and we are blessed with a myriad of great options, most of which I reviewed earlier this year.

Achron Achron Chaviv is another wine which simply cannot get the love and respect it deserves.  Despite being the epitome of versatility and representing the height of vino-awesomeness, Champagne and other sparkling wines are severely under-represented at our dinner tables.  A superbly appropriate wine with which to thank anyone insane enough to host a Thanksgiving dinner, it is virtually guaranteed to be appreciated by any potential recipient while also being a near-perfect match to pretty much anything and a great way to begin any festive occasion.  As an added bonus the lively bubbles awaken your palate in the most magnificent way.  Whether as a gift for someone else or a reward for all your hard work and regardless of whether your menu includes ten meticulously-prepared courses or greasy Chinese take-out, sparkling wine is a foolproof bet for easy pairing and should be represented at every meal but certainly one as festive as Thanksgiving dinner.

In addition to the various specific recommendations sprinkled throughout the newsletter, I have listed some specific options below that would all do serious justice to your holiday table.  As time is fast running out, the list focused on wines that are more likely to be widely available (not all the wines mentioned above fall into that criteria).

The most important thing to remember (besides not to run out of wine) is that tomorrow is a day to be thankful for all we have and those we are lucky enough to share it with.  When all is said and done, choosing holiday wine(s) is about what you prefer and think your guests will enjoy – not finding the “right” wine.  Focusing on relaxing, enjoying the company and basking in the warmth of having provided your guests with a wonderful experience (something for which wine is obviously a prerequisite) is the way to go.

Shabbat Shalom and a very Happy Thanksgiving!
Yossie

Sparkling

• Drappier, Carte D’Or, n.v. (mevushal)
  ● Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blancs, 2009

Rosé

• Castel, Rosé, 2016
  ● Psagot, Rosé, 2016
  ●  Ramon Cardova, Rosé, 2016

White

• Hagafen, Dry Riesling, Rancho Wieruszowski, 16 (mevushal)
  ● O’Dwyer’s Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016  (mevushal)
  ●  St. Urbans-Hof, Nik Weis, Gefen Hashalom, 2016

Red

• Damian Gachot-Monot, Bourgogne, 2010
  ● Domaine La Ferrage, Cote De Brouilly, Beaujolais, (Louis Blanc), 2013
  ●  Gvaot, Gofna, Pinot Noir, 2014

The coming Chagim present a perfect opportunity to dig deep into our cellars and bring out some of those Moshiach Wines. While RCC has (and continues to) provide its hundreds of participants around the globe with monthly “excuses” to open and share some of our better wines, the Jewish Holiday “season” of Rosh Hashana, Succot and Simchat Torah (together with Pesach) represent the ultimate opportunity to elevate our enjoyment of wine to a whole new (and dare I say, spiritual) level.

Despite a number of Moshiach Wine options available for purchase and immediate consumption, the vast majority of such options (and certainly any RCC-qualifying wine) need some time to attain maturity and require some significant investment on the part of their owner. However and contrary to popular belief, the primary outlay in procuring wines at a level that will properly honor our holiday table(s) is not a large chunk of cash but rather the cheaper yet significantly more difficult to attain attribute of patience. In order to properly understand and better appreciate the sheer awesomeness of aged (and properly cellared) wine, this week’s newsletter is going to discuss the science behind a wine’s metamorphosis over the years, and the impact it has on the resulting tastes and aromas and what storage requirements are needed to ensure proper aging is achieved.

While the advent of wine as a consumable beverage predates modern archeology (with the story of Noach and his vines representing the earliest record of humans interaction with wine), there is plenty of tangible evidence that the advantages of aging wine has been known for thousands of years and a significant amount of human ingenuity has been dedicated to the best ways to achieve such aging. Despite the earliest archeological evidence of a winery only being 6,100 years old, the earliest evidence of wine aging are five, 7,000 year old, pottery jugs (with remnants of resin used to seal them) excavated from beneath the dirt floor of a Neolithic kitchen in Iran. Repurposing existing underground storage for wine storage was popularized by the Romans, who in later years utilized their catacombs for this purpose (many caves throughout France’s Champagne region used today for wine storage were dug by the Romans in order to mine the region’s famed salt and chalk), but the practice of digging cellars specifically to store wine was started by the vino-obsessed French, who set out to create the perfect environment for their beloved beverage.

It wasn’t only wine’s ability to last for decades that was recognized and appreciated by the early Greeks (the high sugar content of their straw wines were found to provide long aging ability) and Romans (the excellent Falernian wines were recognized near and far) so many years ago, but also the qualitative improvement the wine underwent as it aged. Jancis Robinson’s indispensable Companion to Wine quotes the Greek physician Galen who wrote that the taste of aged wine was desirable and that this could be accomplished by heating or smoking the wine, though, in Galen’s opinion, these artificially aged wines were not as healthy to consume as naturally aged wines (no different than today’s various wine gizmos falsely proclaiming their ability to hasten the effects of properly aged wine). The Romans built smokehouses to artificially age the wine and achieve some of the flavors and aromas associated with the aged wine they prized so highly, while Pliny the Elder cautioned (like Galen) against utilizing these methods for the top tier wines (Madeira wine is actually subjected to extreme high temperatures to achieve maturity and ensure its viability for decades). Following the fall of the Roman Empire the interest in aged wines was basically non-existent (and winemaking was kept alive primarily through the efforts of the Catholic Church) until the 1600’s when the marriage of glass bottles and corks revitalized the concept and took it to a whole new level.

In today’s fast-paced and ever-changing world, where we have convinced ourselves of the need to stay connected at all times (or at least 24/6), the concept of buying wine today in order to drink it 5, 10, 20 or even 30 years from now is archaic to most and directly contradictory to the world of instant gratification we live in, enabled by advances in technology. While many such advances have enormous positive impact, denying the liquid with which we sanctify Shabbat the necessary time to achieve perfection seems egregious to me.

It is important to note that most wines aren’t meant (nor do they need) extensive aging and this newsletter is talking about the tiny subset of wines that will improve with age. While the aforementioned desire for instant gratification may have contribute to the well-known cliché that almost all wine is consumed within 24 hours of its purchase, the fact that more than 95% of the world’s wine production doesn’t need any cellaring is a far more likely culprit. Taking things one step further and despite wine being one of the only consumable goods that can improve with time (honey may not spoil but it also doesn’t improve with age), the vast majority of wines will no longer be enjoyable after a few years regardless of the quality of its storage conditions

Along with many of the terrific developments in the kosher wine world previously discussed (e.g. explosive growth in the consumer base and the accompanying growth in quality and optionality), we are faced with the unfortunate reality that many special wines are being consumed far too early in their life, denying their owners the enhanced pleasure brought on by some serious cellaring time. An even worse occurrence than depriving one’s self of that additional level of greatness buried within the wine is the far too common phenomenon of not disliking an expensive bottle of recently acquired wine solely as a result of it not yet being ready to drink. Far too often am I confronted by folks who didn’t enjoy a great wine solely because they didn’t give the wine sufficient time in the cellar (or decanter), the result being a heavy reluctance to ever purchase it again (this is one of the reasons I constantly advise wine sellers when having tastings of higher-end wines to properly decant them and, if possible, present older vintages of the same wine when having tastings) showcase not providing the wine with proper decanting and/or cellaring time, thus depriving themselves of ever enjoying the wine again.

Developments in technology and winemaking methods have provided winemakers with the ability to cater to our need instant gratification by producing high-end wines that are approachable and even enjoyable upon release, with many top producers creating wines that require far less cellaring time than in the past. While there is an ongoing debate as to whether today’s Bordeaux wines will age as long as those of years past, there is no question that they are approachable far earlier in life than in the past (kosher wines showcasing this change include the 2014 Château Pape Clément and the 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte (which is far more approachable early on than the magnificent 2000 vintage was (although this may also be attributable to the 2009 Bordeaux vintage which yielded richer and far more opulent wines as a whole)). However, many wines still require channeling a little patience (and proper storage conditions) to achieve the greatness that lies within.

In addition to our ever-increasing lack of patience, a slew of circumstances collaborate to prevent most wine lovers from experiencing the pleasures of mature wine. These include a lack of cellaring room, the cost of professional storage and the ever-rising cost of acquiring well-aged wines from a source with impeccable provenance (in of itself, an exceptionally rare find). Despite my inclusion of drinking windows in nearly every tasting note, some folks are nervous they will forget about the wines (Cellar Tracker is your friend here) or end up opening them after their peak drinking time, preferring safe over sorry. However, for many it is a lack of knowledge with respect to the importance of aging and proper storage and a lack of appreciation for the enhanced pleasure properly aged wines can bring. Most of us know about the same as the ancient Romans did – in order for wine to age properly it needs a dark, cool and quiet place with relatively little temperature variations. That is a good start, but understanding what happens to wine as it slumbers peacefully and why these are the needed conditions is important.

The main reason wine is sometimes referred to as a living thing is its ability to evolve over time (not necessarily improve, but simply change), a characteristic that differentiates it from nearly every other consumable product. The medley of acids, sugars, alcohols, glycosides, esters and phenolic compounds (including arguably the most important of them – tannins) that comprise a wine’s DNA are what enables it to evolve over time. As the various compounds connect, disconnect and reconnect over and over at varying speeds and with different results each time, they yield an ever-evolving kaleidoscope of colors, textures, flavors and aromas. Fresh notes of ripe fruit evolve into dried and candied fruit; aromas of leather, fresh-turned forest floor, flint, honey, pungent mushrooms and herbs magically appear, as if from thin air. While modern science now has the ability to understand many of these reactions, including some specific changes they bring about, we are still not able to quantify exactly how any particular wine will evolve over time, leaving the increasingly important factor of drinking windows as an inexact art left to wine writers such as myself (more on that below). The difficulty is exacerbated by the many different factors that impact a wine’s aging process including the varietal in question, the region (or even plot) in which it was grown and environmental conditions such as heat, wind and rainfall.

As wine ages, changes may occur in its color, texture, aroma and flavor. As you know, our taste buds are only capable of discerning five basic tastes – sweet (the presence of sugar), sour (the presence of acid), bitter, salty and the more controversial umami. In a wine, our tongues can also sense textural sensations such as heat from alcohol, astringency from tannin and creaminess. All other tastes in a wine are detected thorough our olfactory passages, making them technically aromas and not tastes (many scientists believe that grapes developed this amazing myriad of smalls as a wine to entice pollinating insects), but whatever their genesis or exact technical definition – they certainly contribute immensely to our enjoyment!

One of the most important players in a wine’s aroma are esters, which are created when alcohol reacts with acids. One of the many factors that determine the kind of esters produced is the yeast(s) used during fermentation and the level of hydrogen, which encourages this reaction (higher acid wines typically contain higher levels of hydrogen). As the wine ages and the esters undergo hydrolysis, the fresh and fruity aromas of a new wine recede and new aromas evolve as the esters degrade. This changing interaction between the esters and their primary compounds means that the aromas are constantly changing as well (e.g. the esters in a newly released Napa Valley Chardonnay may give off buttery notes while a few years later the same esters may yield aromas of green apples and apples).

Phenolic compounds are another major factor in the changes to a wine’s smells and tastes over time (and their ration to the level of water in the grape and wine are an important factor in a wine’s ability to age). While many phenolic compounds can be found in wine, tannins are by far the most important to a wines aging ability. Tannins love to bind with proteins, which is one of the reasons big and bold red wines go so well with steaks and other hunks of red meat. If you ever tried a rich red wine only to find your mouth puckering, that was the tannins binding to the salvia’s proteins and inhibiting its ability to lubricate your mouth. Tannins are naturally present in the skin, seed and stem of grapes and are also “introduced” into a wine through the use of aging the wine in oak barrels which also impart tannin (one of the reasons red wines age on a whole better than white and rosé wines is their shorter contact period with these tannin-imparting parts of the grape). Over time, the tannins undergo polymerization, a chemical reaction that binds them together in long chains. As they bind together, their surface exposure is reduced and they lose the ability to bind to other proteins, thus lowering the astringency and eliding a smoother tasting wine (after an extended period of time the chains grow too heavy and drop to the bottom of the bottle in the form of sediment) – this may be described in tasting notes as “integrating tannins.” While leaving the tannins out of a wine entirely would make them easier to enjoy immediately, the tannins serve an important purpose in a wine’s ability to age for a long time. Before tannins bind to each other, they tend to bind to other aromatic chemicals in the wine, thus helping the wine retain its original flavors as it gains new ones throughout the aging process, providing enhanced complexity – another great factor in aged wines. Along with acidity, tannins also help prevent oxygenation.

However, without a good dose of acidity in the wine it likely won’t age well. While tannins are a predominant factor in the ageability of red wines, acid is one of the most important aspects that contribute to a white wine’s ability to age (along with oak tannins and sugar content (see below)), while still being important to a red wine’s ability to age as well. High acidity is the primary reason that Chenin Blanc, Riesling and cool-climate Chardonnay (e.g. White Burgundy) are among the white wines with the highest aging ability. As wine ages, the level of acidity may shrink and other changes to the wine could further enhance the felling of lower acidity, both of which contribute to improve taste as the associated astringency and sour taste recedes. A high sugar content is another factor is a wine’s ageability as fructose is the slowest to age from among a wine’s various components. This is one of the reasons that Sauternes ages for so long (and certainly provides the kosher wine world with its currently longest ageable wines (see the list below)), as well as the various fortified wines like Port and Madeira. Alcohol is a volatile component in the wine and lower levels of alcohol generally help with a wine’s ageability (other than in fortified wines). While the level of alcohol in a wine doesn’t change after fermentation, the different stages in a wine’s evolution can cause the alcohol to feel more or less pronounced.

Another important factor in the aging of wine is oxygen, which can be both friend and foe to a wine. While alcohol’s interaction with oxygen yields acetic acid (a/k/a vinegar) and turns the color of a wine into an unpleasant brown (with acid protecting the wine from this phenomenon much like a little lemon juice protects a cut apple from turning brown), it is also responsible for the evolution of a wines aromas from the predominately fruity notes into the desired harmonious combination of fruit, oak and tertiary aromas (which develop as the wine ages (e.g. nuts, earth, mushroom and spices) and are different from secondary aromas which are derived from the winemaking process, including fermentation (e.g. vanilla, toast, cedar wood) or the primary aromas which come from the fruit itself (e.g. blackberry, plum). The oxidation of tartaric acid in a wine contributes to the development of certain of the aforementioned tertiary aromas. Obviously the speed with which a wine interacts with oxygen is a primary factor in how it evolves. Oak barrels, corks and even glass are all porous in varying degrees, allowing the wine to come into slow and limited contact with oxygen to facilitate the wine’s development without being damaged by overexposure and obviously decanting younger wines provides them with a faster level of oxygenation which can facilitate a more pleasurable experience in many wines.

While I love the depth, maturity and complexity of mature wines, it is important to note that, unlike the voluptuous aromas and rich, fruity flavors of younger wines which are appealing to the majority of wine drinkers, the dark and mysterious tertiary notes found in older wines can be harder to appreciate, similar to the natural process towards gaining appreciation for the funky barnyard notes prevalent in many Old World wines. However, once wine drinkers spend a few yours enjoying the rich and fruity pleasure of newer wines, they are able to better appreciate the added complexity older wines gain as the age (not to mention their representation of days past and/or connection to important milestones such as birth or anniversary year wines). One thing to note is that some wines have the ability to last for decades but they don’t necessarily change or improve much over that time (Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of such a genre of wine).

However, in order to ensure that your wines reach their desired maturity in the best condition, care needs to be given to proper storage conditions during the wines aging. The two biggest concerns during a wine’s aging period are waiting too long to open the wine, only to find it is past its peak (the period of a wine’s life where the various compounds are at the highest level of harmony and completely in balance with each other – a period that can last several years) or worse, spoiled once it reaches (or prior to reaching) hat stage. In order to avoid the first, one needs to ascertain the proper drinking window for the wine (and keep track of it over the multiple years of aging the better wines require). Avoiding the second pitfall is primarily facilitated by proper storage conditions that eliminate most of the opportunities for the wine to oxidize before you get to it. While some wines spoil even under the most pristine of conditions, this is a rare occurrence and usually due to flaws from the winemaking process, bottling or the cork itself (including the TCA bacteria which can cause a wine to be “corked” or faulty corks that do not provide a sufficient seal). I will briefly touch on both issues, starting with drinking windows.

The second most common question I get with respect to my wine writing (after why I refuse to score wines) is how I determine the optimal time any particular wine should be consumed or its drinking window. The specifics of this are far beyond the scope of this newsletter, whose length has already exceeded the norm, but the simple (and over generalizing) answer is experience. While there are a number of companies out there that claim to use science to analyze all the various chemical compounds and potential reactions they may undergo in order to ascertain this, they are inconclusive at best and far beyond the reach of any wine writer who tastes and reviews close to 3,000 different wines every year. Instead, we tend to rely on past experience with prior vintages or even other wines produced by the same winery, both of which can give an indication as to the general age-worthiness of any particular winemaking style. Tasting the wine throughout its evolution from the barrel, through bottling until its release also helps navigate the speed with which the wine is (and thus may continue to) evolving. Whenever possible, I also taste wines over a 48 hour period during which it undergoes various manipulations meant to at least partially simulate the aging process. These include decanting the wine and conducting multiple tastings over that period and more aggressively aerating the wine using a Vinaturi or similar tool (for extremely closed wines I have been known to process a portion of the wine through a blender for some insight into what the wine may look like after two decades – this can give a whole new meaning to “blended wine”). I also try to re-taste as many of the ageable wines at least annually to see how they are developing (yet another great thing about the Rosh Chodesh Club). The amazing Coravin can also be helpful in this regard as it allows you use a single bottle to track a wine’s evolution of a period of several months (or maybe even years) without requiring the sacrifice of an entire bottle each time (more on drinking windows and the Coravin in a future newsletter).

One of the worst things for any wine lover who has managed to patiently wait for his treasured wine over the many years of required aging is to open it and find it has spoiled. Avoiding this is relatively simple and while there are many storage options with prohibitive costs, providing solid storage conditions for your liquid treasures doesn’t have to involve an immense amount of time, effort or money . As noted above, in order to achieve the wide variety of subtle reactions that occur as a wine ages, it needs a stable temperature of around 55 degrees, protection from direct light, relative humidity of 70% and as little movement as possible. The cold allows the desired reactions to occur at their natural pace while preventing other reactions that could impair the wine and which occur at higher temperatures. Even very short exposure to extreme temperatures (such as those present in the trunk of a car or non-air-conditioned delivery vehicle) can cause unwanted reactions and ruin the wine. Exposure to too much ultraviolet light can cause otherwise stable organic compounds to degrade at an unnatural pace and have a negative impact on the wine so you want to make sure your wine is in a dark cool environment (or a wine fridge with a UV-proof door).

An adequate level of humidity is necessary to ensure the cork doesn’t dry out and shrink which will let in oxygen-rich air and all its disastrous effect on your wine. On the flip side, an excessive amount of humidity can cause mold to form on the cork with the potential to contaminate the wine or, at lower level, ruin the wine’s label. Last, excessive movement or vibrations can severely disturb a wine’s aging process so best to avoid touching the bottles as much as possible (avoiding vibrations is one of the reasons not to use a kitchen refrigerator for long-term storage – the compressor’s vibrations will wreak havoc with the aging process). Obviously these are the best conditions for any wine, but for wines you intend to drink within six months, you should be OK as long as you keep them under 70 degrees and away from direct sunlight. Keep in mind that regardless of how perfect your home storage conditions are, you cannot control the provenance of the wine before you have acquired it. This goes to newly released wines that may suffer from poor transport conditions and buying older vintages, where obtaining 100% certainty as to proper provenance is impossible. As such, finding wine sources that you trust is imperative in this regard.

Knowing the pleasures of aged wine and understanding the storage requirements necessary for the aging process leave only the question of which wines to age. Obviously the best place to start is this newsletter which regularly recommends great wines across many price points along with drinking windows and recommendations on when to drink (and how to “prepare” the wine for drinking). While not sufficiently accurate even as a generalization, a decent starting point is that the more expensive wines are more likely to be ageable as they are typically those from higher-quality grapes which spend time aging in oak prior to their release. While the world of kosher wine doesn’t yet produce wines that can age for 50 years or more, things are steadily improving and there are a nice number of wines that can age for 10, 20 or even 30 years (only a handful and predominately Sauternes wines in this category) from their vintage year, and I see no reason that number will continue to rise over time. I have included below a list of some wines currently available on the market that will age (i.e. improve) over the next five to ten years (or longer), but remember, these recommendations are assuming pristine storage conditions for the wine from release. While there are a number of more affordable wines on this list, the majority of wines with significant long-term aging ability are going to be n the pricey side. In my opinion, when evaluating the “value” of a wine (or whether it is “worth it”), its long-term aging ability plays a significant role.