Yossie's Corkboard

#331 – May 1, 2017

As you know, today we transition from Yom HaZikaron to Yom HaAtzmaut – Israel’s 69 Independence Day – so Happy Birthday of Israel! A little related tidbit I picked up this weekend is that due to Israel’s desire to avoid the desecration of Shabbat in connection with any national events, since 1952 Tuesday is the only day of the week on which Yom HaAtzmaut is celebrated Bo BaYom (on the actual date Israeli independence was declared – the fifth day of Iyar), which is why this year we celebrate it on the eve of the sixth day of Iyar. Yom HaAtzmaut caps one of the most emotionally tumultuous weeks of the year with Yom HaShoah and Yom HaZikaron (Israel’s Memorial Day) just ending and Yom HaAtzmaut coming right up. On a personal note, this week is easily the hardest for me to be living out of Israel, especially given the tremendous difference between how all three days (along with the coming Yom Yerushalayim) are commemorated in the US and Israel. It is during this week that the famous words of Yehuda HaLevi rings particularly true for me – “Libi Ba’Mizrach V’Anochi B’sof Ma’arav” (My heart is in the east and I am at the edge of the West)).

One of those glib memes floating around social media actually resonated with me as it explained the connection between these three powerfully emotional days we experience every year in rapid succession – Israel has two official remembrance days (Yom HaShoah and Yom HaZikaron . One is to remind us of the cost of having a Jewish state and the other serves to remind us the cost of not having one. The dramatic shift from Yom HaShoah’s deep anguish and strong feelings of “Never Again” to the monumentally important Yom HaZikaron where we honor those of gave their lives in defense of Israel, whose continued existence is paramount to protecting Jews everywhere (backing up the promise of never again) culminating with tonight’s joyous uplifting Yom HaAtzmaut (marked by the reciting of Hallel and notes of smoky grilled meat that permeate Israel for the next 24 hours) can be somewhat jarring, even to those who have spent their entire life experiencing this roller-coaster week of emotional occasions. However, as with many other Israeli experiences, the extremity of our emotions is what helps make Israel the incredible and unique country we all love so much.

My originally planned newsletter will come on Thursday but in honor of Israel’s birthday and taking inspiration for a delightful article by Adam Montefiore a few years ago, I have listed some Israel wines that are personal milestones for me in my continued journey through Israel’s ongoing wine revolution. While the list may seem a bit long to some of you, it is nowhere close to encompassing all the incredible Israeli wines I have enjoyed over the 26 years I have been enjoying Israeli wine. While my first exposure to quality wine was actually via French Bordeaux, growing up in Israel afforded me a first row seat to the resurgence of the Israeli wine industry as it retakes its rightful place among the great emerging wine-producing regions of the world (hopefully this newsletter has played at least some small part in this as well). I note that this list is truly personal and focuses on these wines that are meaningful to me for one reason or another as opposed to the wines that have won medals or brought international fame to them or the industry as a whole (although many of the wines listed accomplished that as well). Most of these wines are so special that I remember them and their impact from years ago without the need for any notes whatsoever.

Looking over the list, you will notice the disproportionate number of wines produced by the Golan Heights Winery. As the country’s leading winery for decades, this shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone, especially with its success in producing the largest number of truly ageable Israeli wines (the 2000 Katzrin we enjoyed last week in honor of the Rosh Chodesh Club’s fourth anniversary is a terrific example of this success). Recent years have seen the numbers shift, not only due to the increasing excellence showcased by other wineries who are managing to produce many cellar-worthy wines of their own on a consistent basis. Further analysis of the list shows the increase of notable wines in later vintages reflecting the tremendous proliferation of Israeli wineries and the exponential growth of available quality kosher wines produced by this tiny wine growing region with a winemaking history going back over 5,000 years. One additional interesting anecdote is the preponderance of white wines towards the end of the list which showcases the increasing popularity of white wines among Israeli drinkers the accompanying drive by Israeli wineries to satisfy this desire with quality options.

Given that sharing wine and related experiences is one of the most enjoyable aspects of being a wine lover, I’d really love to hear from you folks which are your own personal Israeli wine milestones!

Chag Samaech,
Yossie

Carmel, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1976: This was Israel’s first “real” wine and, for some folks, it lasted nearly two decades. I had the pleasure of enjoying a bottle in 1990 and, while I didn’t have sufficient comparative wine tasting experience at that time to fully appreciate its greatness, it was a delicious and memorable bottle at the time it was enjoyed, only a few years after I started really “getting into wine (at the age of 16). I still have the empty bottle!

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1985: The earliest vintage of Israel’s iconic and benchmark wine that I had the pleasure of tasting. The first vintage was in 1984 (which was also the wine which won a number of important international awards and really first placed Israel on the international wine map (a process that we are still working on nearly 30 years later)). For decades this wine, together with the Katzrin whose first vintage was 1990 – see below, was the only Israeli wine capable of long term aging and even today, it remains a reliable ageable wine and the benchmark against which most Israeli Cabernet Sauvignon wines are measured and priced (although, as discussed on multiple occasions, recent years have seen a new trend among Israeli winemakers away from its style).

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, 1988: The only Israeli wine to ever be naturally effected by botrytis and a unique milestone in Israel’s incredible vinographic history. I got to taste the wine only once, and was equally overwhelmed by its historical importance and deliciously unique taste.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 1990: Israel’s first “Super Israeli”, which instantly became Israel’s ‘best’ wine, a title it held for many years (and many would say, still holds today). I recently had a bottle of this wine from the 1990 vintage and, as you can see, it was still drinking quite nicely boding quite well for the ageability of subsequent vintages (in 1993, 1996, 2000, 2003, 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011 and 2012).

Dalton, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1997: For a few years, this was my go-to high-end Cabernet Sauvignon, which provided many happy memories and delightful vinous experiences placing Dalton on a favored winery list. Subsequently, the quality of Dalton deteriorated for a few years before coming back with a vengeance and transforming into the incredible winery we have today.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 1998: Though the 2007 release may be my favorite vintage of this wine earning it a place on the list below), surpassing even the terrific 1999 version I loved so much (not only because it was my anniversary year wine), the 1998 was the first vintage sparkling wine I experienced and it held a special place in my heart for many years.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: Significant only on a personal level as 1999 is the year I got married and this wine is the only living Israeli wine from that vintage that Ayala and I enjoy every year on our anniversary. While still drinking well, it is starting to get a little long in the tooth and it will soon be time to switch to one of the few other [French] kosher wines from that vintage that are still alive.

Tishbi, Special Reserve, Single Vineyard Ben Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: Released together with two other single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the same vintage (from the Sde Boker and Kfar Yuval vineyards) proving an innovation of single vineyard releases and amazing comparative tasting experience together with some nice aging ability.

Bustan, Merlot, 2000: Among my first experiences of a boutique-winery wine, enjoyed during the initial stages of the boutique craze that overtook Israel during the 1990s. Despite being released in small quantities, Avi Ben always had a good stock and they turned me onto this winery early on, a passion that has continued to this day, despite the “failure” of the wines to take hold here in the United States.

Carmel. Single Vineyard Ramat Arad, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: Honestly, despite all empirical evidence to the contrary, this wine seemed to live forever and, for quite some time, was one of Israel’s best kosher wines for those in the know. I got much pleasure from having enjoyed this on release, subsequently purchasing a number of bottles and enjoying its development over the years.

Galil Mountain, Yiron, 2000: The first released vintage of this ubiquitous wine that reined as Israel’s primary QPR wine for years, easily providing the most wine for your shekels. While it is no longer the only great wine at a decent price, it remains a contender even after a decade of potential competition.

Tabor, Meshcha, 2001: A delicious wine that put Tabor on the quality wine making map and kept it there for a few years, unfortunately recently (in my opinion), falling from grace.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Noble Semillon, Botrytis, 2001: I believe this was one of Israel’s first botrytis wines after the magnificently unique 1988 one noted above, albeit made from late harvested grapes manually exposed to botrytis in the winery as opposed to naturally occurring botrytis as in the 1988 version. In any event, a delightful dessert wine that instantly became and remains a personal favorite, with the most recently released *and unfortunately last) vintage being from 2007.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Single Vineyard Elrom, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: At release, and maybe even still today, the best Cabernet Sauvignon ever made in Israel and the beginning of Israel’s “Single Vineyard” craze (although Tishbi had already championed and produced such wines with the 1999 vintage) which continues to be lead today by the Golan Heights Winery (although too much leading may not necessarily a good thing) accompanied by Carmel, Segal (with their delightful Dishon vineyard releases) and a few other wineries.

Castel, Grand Vin, 2002: The first kosher release from the winery, which had been garnering international acclaim since Serena Sutcliffe of Sotheby’s “discovered” it in 1992. For 2002, Castel produced a kosher and non-kosher version (the first kosher Petite Castel and “C” chardonnay did not arrive until the 2003 vintage); thereafter going “completely kosher” and the rest is history.  We recently enjoyed this wine and were delighted to see it was still going strong.

Yatir, Yatir Forest, 2002: While the 2003 vintage of this wine was arguably a “better wine”, the 2002 was the first vintage I tasted (2001 was the first vintage, though I tasted it at a later date) and it was love at first sip – literally! Deep, rich and complex, it was among my first “mind-blowing” wines and the start of a long lasting love affair with the exceptional Yatir Winery that continues to this day (although without a varietal Cabernet Franc there is a limit to my patience).

Ella Valley Vineyards, Vineyards Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Despite the so-called “curse” of the 2002 vintage (brought on by devastatingly hot (“sharav”) August temperatures), this wine excelled and stood out as a new and exciting addition to the Israeli wine scene (assisted by a huge [some say overdone] marketing push by the winery). Championed to me by Avi Ben, I loaded up on the wine and enjoyed it for years, subsequently becoming a huge fan of the winery.

Binyamina, HaChoshen, Syrah, Odem, 2003: A milestone wine for a number of reasons. It was the first vintage for Binyamina’s upscale HaChoshen label, which, in some ways, represented their ascendance back to the top tier of Israeli wineries. Interestingly enough, it was also one of the first Israeli Syrah wines to have some (2%) Viognier blended in, a practice now followed with many other top Syrah wines including the delightful version from Recanati.

Carmel, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Shiraz, 2003: The first vintage release from the magnificent Kayoumi vineyard (which ended up replacing for Carmel the previously immensely successful Ramat Arad one (that became part of Yatir) and the beginning of many great Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Riesling releases from the tremendously blessed parcel of earth.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2003: The first release of what was destined to become my favorite Israeli expression of my favorite grape. I just enjoyed the 2004 vintage of this wine last week – delightful!

Galil Mountain, Yiron, Syrah, 2003: The first release of the Yiron companion and among the first times I realized that Syrah was going to be doing tremendous things on Israel’s unique terroir.

Tzora, Givat HaChalukim, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Despite going kosher in 2002, almost no wines were released from this vintage and this wine was the first I tasted from a winery, whose reputation for producing true, terroir-driven wines (before it became fashionable) was well-known.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Viognier, 2004: The first vintage of this wine was in 2003 but the 2004 vintage was the first one I tasted. Well crafted, exciting and new at the time, it really turned me on to Viognier, which became quite the “hot little grape” in Israel for a few years, culminating in the excellent Dalton Wild Yeast version I have loved so much.

Golan Heights Winery, Rom, 2006: A new flagship wine for the Golan heights Winery, joining the Katzrin as one of Israel’s best and released to significant hype and fanfare substantially exacerbated by the late Daniel Rogov’s 96 point score – the highest ever for any Israeli wine and one of the top 3 scores for any kosher wine – ever by Daniel Rogov (or anyone else). A collaboration between the Golan Heights Winery’s longtime winemaker Victor Schoenfeld and famed wine maker Zelma Long)

Carmel, Mediterranean, 2007: Significant both by being a delicious wine that has aged really nicely and by its representation of Carmel’s leadership towards creating distinctly Israeli/Mediterranean wines that can represent Israeli on an international level as Israeli wines instead of the kosher label most Israeli wineries cannot seem to shake (even the non-kosher ones), although more and more wineries are seeing minor successes on this front, with Tzora being a prime example.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blancs, 2007: While obviously not the first great sparkling wine produced by them, the 2007 was the best and rapidly became an RCC house-favorite and the sparkling wine I turn to most often (as an aside – we should all endeavor to drink sparkling wine much more often).

Recanati, Reserve, Wild Carignan, 2009: While this wasn’t the first quality release of the Carignan grape that historically was produced in Israel’s in the largest quantities, it was certainly one of the most interesting and demonstrative of the new path Recanati is on, away from the California-styled wines championed by former winemaker Lewis Pasco, towards more subtle, refined and terroir-driven wines led by awesome wine making team, Gil & Ido.

Gvaot, Gofna, Pinot Noir, 2009: While not the first Pinot Noir produced in Israel (or even the first really good one – the 2008 version from the Golan Heights Winery under the Yarden label is another stand out), this was the best and one which has become a regular part of Gvaot’s portfolio where it is released on a near-annual basis. The winemaker wisely avoided the trap of attempting to replicate the ethereal Burgundian style and instead focused on coaxing the maximum out of the grape as it developed under the hot Mediterannean sun. The results were delightful and blazed a path for other winemakers to try and follow.

Mia Luce, Rosso, 2009: The first official kosher vintage from this winery, whose talented winemaker’s “day job” is crafting the terrific wines of Recanati, it was another great interpretation of Israel’s resurgent Carignan. Taking advantage of his ability to use the same grapes as Recanati did, Kobi produced a wine is a dramatically different style – but just as good. Nearly ten years later the wine is still showing well and was an early indicator of the great things lying ahead for one of Israel’s greatest rising stars.

Castel, Rosé, 2009: The first Israeli Rose that had serious depth and complexity in addition to their crisp refreshingness. I begged Eli Ben-Zaken to add Rose to his repertoire of wines and with the current 2011 release, I am hopeful it becomes a regular staple in their portfolio as it is quite the delicious wine and perfect for long, contemplative summer days and a great match for many foods.

Flam, Noble, 2010: After establishing themselves as one of Israel’s greatest wineries, the Flam family wasn’t complacent enough to rest on their high-end and hard-earned laurels but rather surged ahead with a new flagship wine produced from their greatest plots. A Bordeaux blend that spends two years in the barrel and another two years aging in the bottles before release (while a great idea with plenty of practical reasoning, this is a first for an Israeli winery), it reflected in part the desire to continuously improve and innovate (not to mention the economic benefits of such a move).

Domaine Netofa, Fine Ruby Port, 2010: Domaine Netofa is one of Israel’s perennially underappreciated wineries, with Pierre producing top quality wines that don’t necessarily jive with the common expectations of kosher wine consumers. In addition to his fantastic Chenin Blanc-driven white wines and Rhone-focused red wines, he managed to produce a quality Port-style wine that immediately stood out among the many Israeli interpretations of this style. Reflecting the same care and quality control he brings to all his win (Israeli and French alike), the wine is a true delight and has become a mainstay of Domaine Netofa’s portfolio (which grew to include a LBV (Late Bottle Vintage) version as well.

Dalton, Single Vineyard, Semillon, Elkosh Vineyard, 2012:  Along with the following three wines – all white, this wine represents Israel’s renewed interest in white wines and continued excellence in coaxing the best of these varietals to slake the country’s thirst for refreshing and crisp white wines brought on by eight to nine months a year of hot Mediterannean sunshine. One of the only varietaly bottled Semillon wines; it was a delight that unfortunately has not been repeated as often as a like.

Tabor, Adama, Roussanne, 2012: With Tabor remerging as an Israeli powerhouse to be taken seriously, their continued experimentation with new varietals has been yielding great results and this initial release of Roussanne was one of the earliest indications of this new and welcome trend.

Tzora, Shoresh, White, 2013: Easily one of Israel’s top three wineries, winemaker (and now CEO) Eran Pick continues to show why the winery he helms has achieved sustained excellence for so long. Taking Sauvignon Blanc and turning into the winery’s showcase wine took guts but yielded dramatically amazing results, as the White Shoresh has turned into one of Israel’s best white wines ever since its initial release (get ‘em early as they tend to sell out quickly and are imported to the US is very limited quantities).

Recanati, Marawi, 2014: So much ink has been spilled about the importance of this wine (including by me), there is no need to go into great detail. Needless to say, the massive international recognition bestowed on the Israeli industry driven by this little wine was great for the country (even if the wine, in of itself, wasn’t a great wine). Derivative of Shivi Drori’s important research and drive to discover these ancient varietals, it also reflects Israeli curiosity and drive for innovation that has helped propel and keep Israel on the world’s stage for cutting technology and excellence.

Public Service Announcement: You can skip the verbiage and scroll straight down to the bottom of this newsletter for the actual list (which this year includes all my recommendations in this week’s edition, instead of being split over two weeks), but I suggest reading through since the material below contains a number of tips that will enhance your buying process sufficiently to make it worthwhile reading.

As you all know by now, these weeks leading up to Pesach are the US kosher wine industry’s busiest, with more kosher wine purchased during this period than the rest of the year combined (in Israel, Rosh Hashana shares the busy season with Pesach). As we recently discussed, the number of kosher wines grows exponentially every year, with over 3,000 different wines produced in 2016 and 2017 expected to increase that by over 15%. Even though this number includes a significant number of “Fake Wines” like 40 different versions of Manischewitz, Cream Malaga and Yayin Patishim, not to mention the infamous Blue Bottled Abomination, the number of great options is vast with plenty of options for the entire palate spectrum of the budding kosher wine lover.

While the macro implications of such proliferation for us kosher oenophiles is awesome, the sea of labels one encounters these days can certainly create a stressful shopping experience, especially during this busy buying season when every seller of wine is inundating consumers with a multitude of options for any type of wine you may be interested in (new, old, red, white, good, bad, etc.) while proclaiming their offers as the best, cheapest and must have. Separating the wheat from among the proverbial chaff continues to be difficult and is exacerbated by the multitude of potential dangers lurking at every point of sale (most of which I discussed in Part I of my Annual Trifecta), making it hard to decide which of these wines are truly worth your hard-earned zlotys.

Additionally, a number of mitigating circumstances add unneeded stress to the decision making process including the unfortunate prevalent tendency of retailers to sell old wines that are well past their prime (i.e. the majority of 2015 (or earlier) vintage Rosé wines), failing to disclose (or even worse, misrepresenting) vintages when advertising wines (they matter) or listing wines that aren’t actually available or in stock as a classic bait-and-switch tactic. As a reminder (and there are exceptions), white wines shouldn’t be sold more than two years past their vintage and red wines three years (unless we are talking about the better and more expensive wines and you are confident about their provenance). As with every industry, caveat emptor!

Since I whole-heartedly believe that wine is supposed to bring pleasure and should not be associated with all the other stressful pre-holiday experiences including grating 30 pounds of potatoes, making 200 matza balls or spending 20 hours inside your oven with a toothbrush making sure no chamtetz remains (true childhood experience), I am happy to present you with my Annual Pesach Kosher Wine Buying Guide which should help alleviate any wine buying associated stress! The Guide covers my recommendations for wines across four price ranges: (1) Under $18, (2) between $18-29.99, (3) between $30-50, (4) Over $50 (a new category) and (5) Moshiach Wines. As most of my readers know, Moshiach Wines are wines that I would proudly serve the Moshiach, were I ever to earn the honor of hosting him at my table. As promised last year, I have added a category for great wines over $50 that aren’t quite at the “Moshiach wine” level and have been left off the guide (and therefore not purchased as often) for years (while being recommended often throughout the year as great wines).

With “the rich grow richer” being as true for the wine world as any other area of life, it will come as no surprise to you that many of the wines & wineries are perennial repeaters on my list (with only the vintage changing and, in the case of the more expensive and Moshiach wines, not even the vintage changes every year). While the adage of even a broken clock is right twice a day doesn’t exactly translate to winemaking, it is however far easier to make a great wine once that a very good wine every year. As such, the wines that make it to this exalted list are typically produced by the better wineries that will also usually be able to maintain their level of excellence on a consistent basis.

As the quality and quantity of top-notch kosher wines continues to grow year over year, compiling this list gets more difficult (since listing every single wine that could be on this list would significantly degrade its usefulness and nearly eliminate its reason for existing in the first place) and the culling process even more painful (even before the impending deluge of complaints with respect to wines left off the list). With less than 5% of available wines on this list, I certainly hope it proves useful in making your Pesach selections. In the event that further narrowing is required, I will also be sending around some of my personal favorites from each of the categories (not necessarily what I believe to objectively be the best – simply the ones I enjoy the most at this specific point in time).

Being an attorney by profession (i.e. my “other” job), I would be remiss in providing this kind of a guide without the following caveats:

1. The attached is not a comprehensive list of every wine I believe worthy of your consideration, but rather a curated selection of the better wines available in the different price ranges, each of which I recommend and believe are worthy of your Pesach table – the key word here being “recommend”. I provide weekly recommendations and only write about wines I like, so if I have recently written about a wine – you can buy it in confidence even if it’s not on this list.
2. In general, nearly every wine made by Flam, Gvaot, Hajdu, Recanati, Tzora and Yatir is worth buying (with Dalton, Four Gates and Matar all close behind) – otherwise known as “Safe Bet Wineries” so feel free to indulge in their wines that aren’t listed here as well. Additionally, many of last year’s wines are still available on the shelves, are still good (subject to my earlier comments re: vintages) and may simply not have been relisted this year. Check out last year’s list for additional suggestions and/or vintages.
3. Some of these wines may only be available either in Israel or the US and are marked as such. While there remain a number of wines that remain in their indigenous countries (e.g. Hajdu and Shira in the US and Mia Luce in Israel), the vast majority of recommendable Israeli wines imported to the US (Shmita excepting) and most of the Herzog/Royal formerly “US Only” wines exported to Israel, making this list more useful across the broadly disparate geographic location of my readers.
4. Due to the disparate geographical disbursement of my reader base, the listed vintages may be different depending on which part of the world your shopping cart is located in (although vintages tend to also shift from local retailer to retailer and distributor to distributor, depending on how much of the prior vintage they have left in stock). Especially for Israeli wines, different vintages are available in Israel and outside of Israel. Where more than one vintage is readily available and good, I have listed both (conversely, I have also noted specific vintages to be avoided, as applicable).
5. While reaching out to me before deviating from a recommended vintage is always a good idea, given the qualitative fluctuation in recent vintages and growing shipping and storage issues, it is especially important when utilizing this list to purchase vintages other than those specifically listed.
6. Prices fluctuate wildly, not only between countries and individual States, but even within the same city (e.g. the five boroughs of New York City), so some of the listed wines may not fall within the listed price points. Online price checking is always a good idea, especially since most retailers worth their salt will match any listed price.
7. In order to ensure the practical functionality of this list, I have not included wines that are only available to members of wine clubs (e.g. Hajdu or Covenant) and have severely limited wines that are generally not available at all (or anymore).

With the quality of white wines increasing year over year there are more white wines on the list than in prior years, especially on in the lower price ranges. If you are one of those unfortunate and self-proclaimed “I don’t drink white wine” people, please take this as an opportunity to try something new – I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Despite earning top billing on any self-respecting oenophiles list of favorite holiday customs, the tradition to consume four full cups of wine at the Seder brings with it a host of dilemmas, many of which require advance thought and careful planning. The main problem is that four cups of wine is simply a tremendous amount of wine to consume at one sitting (even for a five hour traditional Seder), exacerbated by imbibing the first two cups in rather rapid fashion and on an empty stomach. Another issue stems from the tradition to use silver goblets as opposed to wine glasses and while the issue is relatively easily remedied for Kiddush by immediately pouring the wine into a proper wine glass following the recital of Kiddush, the wine spends extended time in contact with the silver goblet during the course of the Seder as we go through the lengthy Hagadah. Other issues present themselves in connection with the common practice to focus on only red wines during the Seder and the strong tradition to avoid Mevushal if at all possible.

With the Seder being the most prestigious meal of the Jewish calendar by a huge margin, folks usually try to bring some of their best (and usually the expensive wines) wines to the table. While French wines contain to retain the “most expensive kosher wine” moniker across the board, Israeli and Spanish producers continue to try and best them. In any event, these “best” wines are typically big wines, with plenty of oak and tannin enveloped in rich and ripe fruits. While many of these wines certainly belong in the category of “best kosher wines”, most of them require significant “air time” to achieve their true potential (if not cellaring time – see my comments below re: Moshiach wines) and even then, are not wines to be consumed within the halachically-legislated timeframe for consumption, but rather to be savored, sipped and enjoyed in a relaxed setting. The combination of an empty stomach, the requirement to consume nearly an entire cup of wine rather rapidly and the need of parents to prevent a roomful of over-stimulated children from re-enslaving us all combine to significantly impair one’s ability to properly enjoy such magnificent wines.

In order to avoid finding myself lamenting “wasting” these special treasures without affording them the respect they deserve, I strongly suggest saving the more serious (and expensive wines) for leisurely drinking during the actual Seder meal and the abundance of subsequent holiday meals) while sourcing other good, more “appropriate” wines to use for the four cups. Being somewhat of a conforming traditionalist when it comes to holiday traditions, I stick with red wines for all four cups (many view Rosé as a perfect compromise) and choose my wines based on a few simple principles. It remains a chag and we are celebrating being freed from punishing slavery and our birth as a nation with collective responsibility for each other, so great wine is still a pre-requisite. With the nearly 40 folks at our family Sedarim representing an extremely diverse range of palate preferences, I try to focus on medium-bodied and affordable wines that can be enjoyed immediately and give pleasure without requiring a significant amount of contemplation or oenophilic sophistication. Some of my “go-to” Seder wines over the years have included Israeli Petite Sirah from Dalton and Recanati, the Spanish Capcanes Peraj Petita (try to avoid the mevushal), Galil Mountain’s Yiron and the Rioja Herenza from ElviWines. To the extent you are looking for well-priced and versatile white or Rosé, the Rosé wines from Netofa, Psagot and Dalton are nice (and affordable) options while good white wine options include Sauvignon Blanc from Yarden, O’Dwyers Creek (mevushal to boot), Covenant, Carmel’s 2014 Kayoumi Riesling, the Eva Blanc from Capsouto and Viognier from Dalton or Yatir. While the German Nik Wies Riesling is delightful, my personal preference would be to avoid drinking German wines at the Seder…

During this busy buying season, retailers pull out all the stops to bring in your dollars with big sales everywhere. Between the increasing competition and online availability of most top-notch kosher wines, most wine merchants will match any published price, so always ask your favorite retailer to match the prices you have seen elsewhere and, if you aren’t happy with the price – ask for a discount.

With all the explanations behind us, I wish you all Shabbat Shalom, Chag Kasher V’Samaech and present my:

Annual Pesach Kosher Wine Buying Guide

Under $17.99

With winemaking skills continuing to improve across the board, assisted by increasingly affordable technological advances, the number of quality wines in this price ranges continues to grow every year. Other than a few welcome outliers, the wines in this price range are usually not complex or cellar worthy. With oak barrels being pricy, this price-point includes the highest percentage of white and Rosé wines, as these wines typically spend almost no time in oak thus allowing wineries to charge less for them. In addition to focusing on “Safe Bet” wineries, another good tip is to seek out the less popular varietals like Petite Sirah, Carignan, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Roussanne and Gewürztraminer which usually provide better bang for your buck than Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay. As would be expected, most of the wines on these lists qualify as YH Best Buys.

1. Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 2015 [mevushal]
2. Baron Herzog, Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, 2015 [mevushal]
3. Borgo Reale, Rosé, 2016 [mevushal]
4. Cantina Giuliana, Chianti, 2014 (also the 2016 Costa Toscana Vermentino)
5. Capcanes, Peraj Petita, 2014 [avoid the mevushal option]
6. Château Les Riganes, Bordeaux, 2014 (mevushal)
7. Cotes de Galilee Village, Jacques Capsouto Vignobles, Cuvee Eva Blanc, 2015 [shmita]
8. Dalton, Estate, Pinot Gris, 2016 (also the Fume Blanc and 2016 Rosé)
9. Dalton, Estate, Petite Sirah, 2014 (also the 2014 Alma Ivory (f/k/a the “White Blend”))
10. Domaine Netofa, Netofa, Rosé, 2016
11. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja (Semi-Crianza), 2014
12. ElviWines, InVita, 2014, 2016
13. Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla in Israel), Brut, n.v.
14. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 (also the 2016 Pinot Grigio)
15. Goose Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, 2015 [mevushal]
16. Hagafen, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 (also the Lake County Riesling) [mevushal / US]
17. Jezreel Valley, Levanim, white Blend, 2014
18. Montefiore, Rosé, 2016 (also the 2015 White [shmita / Israel])
19. O’Dwyers Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 [mevushal]
20. Oscar Quevedo, Douro, 2014 [mevushal / US]
21. Pavolino, Prosecco, n.v. [US]
22. Porto Quevedo, Ruby Port, n.v. [US]
23. Recanati, Rosé, 2016
24. Recanati, Yasmin, White Blend, 2015 [shmita / mevushal]
25. Tabor, Adama, Barbera, Rosé, 2016 (also the 2016 Sauvignon Blanc)
26. Tabor, Mount Tabor, Chardonnay, 2016
27. Teperberg, Vision, White (Off-Dry), 2014
28. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, 2013

$18-29.99

This price range is the sweet spot for me (my initial list in this range had over 150 options before the stressful culling process began). As the price of kosher wine continues to rise to ridiculous levels ($150 is the new $100), there are thankfully a number of wineries that continue to hold steadfast with great quality without pushing prices into the stratosphere and making their wines inaccessible to most folks. It behooves us to show our appreciation with our wallets and indicate by action how appreciative we are to have these affordable options for great wines. Even though the majority of great kosher remain in the “Over $30” price range, there are plenty of great ones here. In general, I find Carmel, Dalton, Elvi, the Golan Heights Winery, Herzog and Recanati to be consistent players in price range (while also having terrific wines in the more expensive brackets).

1. Agur, Rosé, 2016 [Israel]
2. Alexander, Liza, Chardonnay, 2014
3. Bat Shlomo, Sauvignon Blanc, 2015 [shmita]
4. Carmel, Single Vineyard, Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Sha’al, 2010
5. Carmel, Single Vineyard, Riesling, Kayoumi, 2014
6. Château Fourcas Dupre, 2012 [US]
7. Château Roubine, Côtes de Provence, 2016 [US]
8. Covenant, Red C, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016
9. Dalton, Alma, Scarlet (f/k/a “GSM Blend”) 2013
10. Dalton, Alma, Crimson (f/k/a “Bordeaux Blend”), 2013
11. Damien Gachot-Monot, Bourgogne, 2010 (also the Côte de Nuits-Villages) [US]
12. Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2014
13. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja (Crianza), 2010
14. Flam, Classico, 2014 (also the 2016 Rosé)
15. Four Gates, Chardonnay, 2013 [US]
16. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2009 (also the 2013 Petit Verdot)
17. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Single Vineyard, Chardonnay, Odem, 2014 (also 2013 Katzrin Chardonnay)
18. Gush Etzion, Lone Oak, Chardonnay, 2014
19. Gush Etzion, Spring River, Syrah-Mourvedre-Grenache, 2014
20. Gvaot, Gvaot, Merlot, 2014 (also the 2016 Gewürztraminer [Israel])
21. Hagafen, Don Ernesto, Beret Rosé, 2016 [mevushal / US]
22. Hagafen, Pinot Noir, Coombsville, 2013 [mevushal / US]
23. Hagafen, White Riesling, Dry, 2016 [mevushal / US]
24. Herzberg, Coteaux de Sitrya, Rosé, 2016
25. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2014 [mevushal] (also the Chardonnay)
26. Jerusalem Winery, Yovel (5777), Har HaTzofim, 2016 (also the 2016 Orange Wine)
27. Jerusalem Winery, Gerstein Edition, Chardonnay, 2014 (also the Vintage 2014) [Israel]
28. Jezreel Valley, Rosé, 2016
29. Joseph Mellot, La Graveliere, Sancerre, 2014 [US]
30. Kishor, Savant, Viognier, 2014 (also the 2014 Riesling!)
31. Porto Quevedo, Ruby Port, n.v.
32. Psagot, Rosé, 2016 (also the 2013 Edom)
33. Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Petite Sirah, 2014 (also the 2015 Reserve Chardonnay [shmita])
34. Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lebanon (David) Vineyard, 2014 (also 2014 Merlot)
35. Shiloh, Shor, Barbera, 2014
36. Shirah, Vintage Whites, 2015 (also the 2015 Furmint) [US]
37. Tabor, Adama II, Storm, 2013
38. Teperberg, Essence, Merlot, 2013
39. Tzora, Judean Hills, White (and Red), 2014
40. Tzora, Shoresh, White, 2015 [shmita]
41. Vitkin, Israel Journey, Rosé, 2016
42. Yatir, Viognier, 2014 (also the 2016 Rosé [Israel])

$30-50

While the $18-29.99 range is my personal sweet spot, this range is where the majority of great kosher wine sits. Unfortunately, many of these really should be priced in the lower range but have crept up in price for no justifiable reason. It’s nearly impossible to find a YH Best Buy on this list, even though they are all great wines but at this price range, the wine needs to work a little harder to make the list. As with most higher end wines, especially those with a year or more of barrel aging, they need some time to open up and often the current vintage on the shelf should be regulated to your cellar for a few years since it simply isn’t ready for primetime. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a decanter to ensure that you are obtaining maximum benefit from these wines in the event that you don’t or cannot cellar them before enjoying.

1. Adir, Kerem Ben Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2015 [shmita / Israel]
2. Bat Shlomo, Chardonnay, 2014
3. Bokobsa Selection, Chavignol, Sancerre, 2012 [US]
4. Borgo Reale, Signi, Brunello di Montalcino, 2007 [US]
5. Carmel, Mediterranean, 2011
6. Château Les Roches de Yon Figeac, 2012 [US]
7. Château Marquisat de Binet, Cuvee Abel, Montagne St. Émilion, 2012 [US]
8. Château Royaumont, Lalande de Pomerol, 2014
9. City Winery, Deep Roots, Petit Verdot, 2013 [US]
10. Covenant, Lavan, Chardonnay, 2014 (also the 2014 Red Tribe)
11. Covenant, Red C, Rosé, 2016
12. Domaine du Castel, “C”, Chardonnay, 2014 (also the 2014 Petite Castel)
13. Domaine Netofa, Latour Netofa, Red, 2013 (also the 2014 Latour White [Israel]!)
14. Domaine Netofa, Ruby Port, 2012 [Israel]
15. Drappier, Carte D’Or, Brut, n.v. (the Carte Blanche as well)
16. Earl Christian Bonfils, Gigondas, Grand Reserve, 2014
17. Elvi, EL26, 2010 [US]
18. Flam, Reserve, Merlot, 2014 [Israel] (also the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon)
19. Four Gates, Chardonnay, 2013 [US]
20. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Brut, Rosé, 2010
21. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Pinot Noir, 2014 (also the Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon)
22. Hagafen, Brut Cuvee, Late Disgorged, 2012 [mevushal / US]
23. Herzog, Eagles Landing, Syrah, Reserve, Paso Robles, 2014 (also the 2015 Pinot Noir) [US]
24. Herzog, Special Reserve, Malbec, 2014 [shmita / mevushal / US]
25. Hajdu, Petite Sirah, Eaglepoint Ranch, 2015 (also the Syrah) [US]
26. Jezreel Valley, Single Vineyard, Carignan, 2014
27. Matar, Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon, 2014 (also the 2014 Chenin Blanc)
28. Matar, Cumulus, 2014 (also the 2016 Rosé [Israel])
29. Mia Luce, Syrah and Stems, 2015 (also the 2015 CSM) [shmita / Israel]
30. Montefiore, Kerem Moshe, 2013
31. Ramot Naftaly, Malbec, 2014
32. Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Carignan, 2014 (also the 2014 Marselan)
33. Recanati, Special Reserve, Red, 2014
34. Shiloh, Secret Reserve, Merlot, 2014
35. Shirah, Bro-Duex, 2014 (also the 2014 One Two Punch) [US]
36. Tabor, Limited Edition, 2012
37. Tenuta Monchiero, Barolo, 2010 [US]
38. Terra di Seta, Assai, Chianti Classico, 2011
39. Tura, Heartland, 2014 (also the 2014 Mountain Vista Chardonnay)
40. Tzora, Shoresh, Red, 2014 and 2015 [shmita]
41. Tzora, Or, 2012 [Israel]
42. Yatir, Petit Verdot, 2011

Over $50.01

As I mentioned last year, over the decade or so of producing this guide many deserving wines were left off this list simply because they were priced over $50 and didn’t belong in the exalted “Moshiach Wine” club. While the question of whether any particular wine is “worth it” requires a newsletter of its own, these are great wines that should certainly be viewed as bringing tremendous pleasure while properly honoring your Seder table. Even more applicable than for the $30-50 wines; my comment above with respect to proper aeration and cellaring will make a huge difference in extracting the maximum amount of pleasure from these wines.

1. Adir, Plato, 2013
2. Bonnet-Ponson, Brut Premier Cru, Champagne, n.v. [US]
3. Capcanes, La Flor del Flor, Samso, Carignan, 2014
4. Château Giscours, Margaux, 2014
5. Château Haut-Condissas, Médoc, 2013
6. Château Magrez Fombrauge, Bordeaux, White, 2014 [US]
7. Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Leognan, 2014
8. Château Montviel, Pomerol, 2014
9. Château Moulin de la Clide, St. Émilion, 2011 [US]
10. Château Piada, Sauternes, 2013
11. Château Soutard, Saint-Émilion, 2014
12. Clos Haut-Peyraguey, Sauternes, 2014 [US]
13. Dalton, Matatia, 2013
14. Domaine D’Ardhuy, Côtes de Beaune, Village, 2014 [US]
15. Domaine Rose Camille, Echo de Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2011 [US]
16. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja, Reserva, 2010 [US]
17. Four Gates, Cabernet Franc, 2013 (also the 2013 “regular” Merlot) [US]
18. Four Gates, Frere Robaire, 2012 [US]
19. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 2012
20. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Single Vineyard, Syrah, Bar’On, 2013
21. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014 (also the 2014 Petit Verdot)
22. Herzog, Single Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ink Ranch, 2013 (also the 2014 Spring Mountain) [US]
23. Herzog, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone Six, 2014 [US]
24. Lueria, Grand Vital, 2014
25. Matar, CB, 2014
26. Recanati, Special Reserve, White, 2014
27. Shiloh, Mosaic, Exclusive Edition, 2013
28. Shirah, Syrah, The Saint and the Barbarian, 2013 (also the 2014 Grenache) [US]
29. Teperberg, Legacy, Cabernet Franc, 2013
30. Tura, Mountain Peak, 2013
31. Yaacov Oryah, Iberian Dream, Gran Reserva, 2011 (also the 2014 Eye of the Storm) [Israel]
32. Yatir, Forest, 2011

Moshiach Wines (for more Moshiach Wines, check out my Best Wines of 2016)

Moshiach wines are the really special wines that represent top-notch winemaking and plenty of patience on the consumer’s part to allow the wines the additional aging time in the bottle before the wine showcases all it can be (and the perfection intended by the winemaker). Unfortunately as our world continues to devolve into the pursuit for instant gratification, the terrible crime of consuming high-end wines shortly after they are purchased is a crying shame. While certain top tier wines are structured for immediate consumption and long-term aging, a few years of aging nearly always does good things for these wines and is worth the extra time, effort and patience. With the continued global expansion of my Rosh Chodesh Club concept (over 20 regular monthly meetings worldwide), more and more folks and getting to experience the immense pleasure derived from properly aged mature wines and with the recognition that a few years of storage can yield a stratospheric ROI, many more wines are finding their way to the cellar instead of the table upon purchase – which is a great thing!

Please note that some of the Moshiach wines are very limited edition wines that may not be easily available at your local retailer. While they may be a tad difficult to lay your hands on, I promise they are all worth the extra effort and additional expense. Additionally and as is the case with many of the best wines, many become Moshiach wines only after a few years of aging. As older vintages (that have been stored properly) are somewhat difficult to come by, the list includes the current vintage for many of the wines and, for a number of the wines I have included (at least one of) the vintages that makes the wine fit for the Moshiach (buy the current vintages, store them properly for a few years and voila – house-made Moshiach wines).

1. Capcanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, 2014 (2000, 2005, 2008)
2. Carmel, Limited Edition, 2011 (2007)
3. Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 2001
4. Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2005 (2003)
5. Château Pape-Clement, Pessac-Leognan, 2014 [US]
6. Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2003
7. Château Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes, 2014
8. Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, 2009 (2000)
9. Château de Valandraud, Saint-Émilion, 2005
10. Covenant, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2015 (2007)
11. Dalton, Matatia, 2006 (also 2008 [shmita / Israel])
12. Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, 2014 (2008) shmita / Israel)
13. Domaine Rose Camille, Pomerol, 2012 (2005, 2006)
14. ElviWines, Clos Mesorah, 2014 (2010) [US]
15. Falesco, Marciliano, Cabernet, Umbria 2005 (also the 3 other 2005/2006 Falesco wines) [US]
16. Flam, Noble, 2012 (2011) (also the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve)
17. Four Gates, Merlot, M.S.C., 2013 (2006) [US]
18. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 2008 [shmita]
19. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Single Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom, 2008 [shmita]
20. Gvaot, Masada, 2014 (2007)
21. Hagafen, Prix, Mélange, 2009 (2005) [US]
22. Hajdu, Proprietary Red, 2014 (2011) [US]
23. Herzog, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill, 2014 (2009) [mevushal]
24. Tzora, Misty Hills, 2014 (2008 [shmita])
25. Yatir, Forest, 2011 (2006)

Following last week’s newsletter summarizing the trends and occurrences in the kosher wine world, this week includes my annual list of the “Best Wines of 2016” and the “Most Exciting / Interesting Wines of 2016” (many of which give more pleasure than some of their “near-perfect” brethren who are included in the former, more prestigious, list). When you taste an incredibly large number of different wines every year, a different varietal or flavor profile certainly helps the wine to stand out among the hundreds or thousands of wines that pass through one’s tasting glass every year; thus the inclusion (and importance) of the second list.

While obviously not news to any reader of Yossie’s Wine Recommendations, after tasting over 2085 different wines this year (significantly more than in 2015), I can safely say that the world of Israeli and kosher wine continues to improve and there are great things ahead for the industry. The kosher wine consumer continues to develop and evolve and is learning to appreciate good wine for what it is (a topic discussed in depth in Part I of my Annual Trifecta).

Obviously the job of compiling these end of the year lists would be enormously easier if I scored wines since I could then simply list the ten wines I scored highest during the year. However, given my well-known abhorrence for the practice of scoring wines (to the constant chagrin and complaint of many wineries and retailers), the task is significantly more complicated and thus, a fair number of caveats are in order (attorney day job, caveats would likely have been involved anyway) as set forth below.

1. The list doesn’t include older vintages of wines I tasted throughout the year, including magnificent wines that are now in their prime like the Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2005, Château Pontet-Canet 2003, Capcanes Peraj Ha’Abib 2005 or the Yarden Katzrin 2007 and 2008. With the fourth anniversary (!) of the Rosh Chodesh Club just around the corner, this newsletter would be completely overtaken by the magnificent cellared wines participants of the various 15 franchises have enjoyed over the last 47 months.
2. In keeping with past practice, the list includes only wines I tasted for the first time during the 2016 calendar year (although barrel tastings from 2015 that I tasted as final wines this year are included). Only wines that have been bottled are eligible for this list (“components,” “near final” blends and wines not yet filtered won’t appear on this list.
3. A handful of wineries are constantly producing so many terrific wines that the list could be comprised solely of their wines (g. Capcanes, Elvi, Hajdu, Covenant (missing from this list due to sheer timing issues relating to when I tasted their wines during 2015 and 2016), Flam, Tzora, Gvaot and Recanati). In order maintain a modicum of parity and also reflect the wonderful diversity of today’s quality kosher wines, I have limited the number of entries by any specific winery to ensure a slightly more inclusive list.
4. Following on my experiment from last year, I again avoided wines of such exceptional rarity as to render them one-off experience, thus ensuring the usefulness of this list to the bulk of readers. As such, wines I personally tasted and loved throughout the year that were non-commercial (like the Napa Valley Reserve 2010-2013), exceptionally rare and/or expensive (like the 2014 Château Pape Clément or the incredible 2013 Lot 70 Cabernet Sauvignon from Covenant) or only available in limited markets (like the amazing 2000 Sauternes from Château Guiraud or 2009 Château Smith Haut-Lafitte) were not included in the list (but definitely get your hands on some if you can – you will not be disappointed).
5. Reflecting the geographically widely disparate location of my readers (currently about 65% are based in the United States, 25% in Israel with the remaining 10% spread throughout the globe), some of the wines may not be readily available in one market or another (a winery’s flagship wine(s) are typically produced in relatively small quantities and thus sell out fast or are not exported).
6. Despite my best intentions and efforts, four children and a rather demanding day-job continue to limit my wine-tasting travel and I wasn’t able to taste every one of the more than 3,000 kosher wines released this year. Combined with a slowly failing memory, these lists aren’t 100% set in stone and there are dozens of other worthy-wines worthy of your time, attention and wallet.

Below is my list – I’d love to hear from you on your best and favorite wines of 2016.

Best Wines of 2016 (in alphabetical order)

Capcanes, Peraj Habib, 2014: As noted above, Capcanes is one of those perennial contenders for this list with the 2012 earning a top slot last year and the 2014 showcased for this year’s list (I tasted both the 2013 and 2014 this year and, while both would make this list, I personally enjoyed the 2014 more). As always, a blend of the winery’s three varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Carignan (the latter two also bottled as individual varietals in the La Flor series), with this years blend having more Grenache than usual (45%) and contributing to a more approachable and sensual wine than in prior years. Give the wine 15-20 minutes in the glass and you will be rewarded with a lovely nose redolent with rich red fruit, smoky oak, black pepper, sweet spices, dark chocolate, slate, a bitter tinge of pleasing herbaceousness, graphite and plenty of lavender and floral notes from the Grenache. The full bodied palate nicely fulfills the nose’s promise, with plenty of the same on a backbone of velvety and powerful tannins with hints of blueberry, flinty minerals and extracted black fruit leading into a rich and powerful finish that lingers long with notes of smoky oak, chocolate and anise. One for the ages, this is a rich and layered wine that can be enjoyed now but will also age through 2025, likely longer.

Chateau Piada, Sauternes, 2013: With the last kosher vintage of this wine being 2006 and the Golan Heights Winery ceasing to produce the delightful “Noble Sémillon” as of the 2007 vintage, the non “Port-style” kosher dessert wine cupboard is somewhat bare. As such, this wine was warmly welcomed and sold out pretty quickly (it’s decent pricing contributed as well); a somewhat surprising development, given the lackluster popularity kosher Sauternes typically enjoys among the general kosher wine consuming public. However, as noted in the 2016 “lookback”, “times are changing” and folks are thankfully more willing to explore wines outside their comfort zone. With a voluptuous nose bursting with sweet tropical fruits including guava and pineapple along with apricot, orange blossom, rich citrus notes and honeysuckle and a full bodied palate drenched in more sweet fruit and honey with plenty of acid keeping the wine honest and spices, candied ginger, minerals and hints of graphite adding welcome complexity to a wine that will develop over the coming years as it sheds a bit of “fat” and allows the layers of complexity to come forward. Abundantly enjoyable now, the wine should continue to evolve and develop through 2020 and then cellar nicely through 2025, maybe longer.

Domaine Roses Camille, Rose Camille, 2012: Another winery repeating its success from last year where the 2011 vintage earned a spot (following a five-year dry spell since the last kosher vintage in 2006), the 2012 vintage yielded another layered and complex elegant wine with plenty of power providing a stage on which the wine will star for years to come (after a recent visit to the winery and taste of the 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages, one should expect to see these wines safely ensconced on this for the foreseeable future). At this point the wine is so tight, it needs 12-18 hours of air before it starts to yield a little, giving one a glance at the greatness that lies beneath. As typical for Pomerol, the wine is comprised of 100% Merlot sourced from the winery’s vineyards located a stone’s throw from Château Pétrus which spent approximately two years in French oak. Once aromas can be coaxed from this über-young wine, one is rewarded with rich black fruit, earthy minerals, pungent forest mushrooms, garrigue along with hints of near-sweet red fruit, saddle leather graphite and layers of rich spices that warm the soul. The full bodied and extracted palate is loaded with dense fruit, gobs of wet forest floor, freshly-wrapped cigars, savory tannins, a hint of roasted meat all wrapped around a core of gripping tannin and gobs of acidity that will ensure the wine gets the long life it deserves. A long and lingering finish is replete with more dark fruit, minerals, roasted coffee beans, a touch of herbaceousness and more warm spices. It would be criminal to open at this point, so wait [at least] four years before opening and then enjoy as the wine continues to improve and evolve through 2028 [Only in the US].

Elvi, Clos Mesorah, 2014: Yet another perennial contender for top billing on this list, the Clos Mesorah represents some of the best kosher Spanish wine on the market. Along with the Peraj Ha’Abib listed above (while hailing from relatively proximate locations, these two wines are hugely different stylistically), you would be hard pressed to find a better duo to represent [kosher] Spanish terroir and winemaking. While I find the 2013 to be slightly more impressive, the 2014 certainly earned its billet by sheer merit. As with prior years, the wine is made from old vine Carignan and Grenache blended with some “newer” Syrah. A slightly different blend from last year, with Grenache taking up 50% of the blend, a fact that is evident on both the aromatic nose and the sensuous palate. On the nose, the Grenache and Syrah team up against the Carignan to yield rich and near-sweet red fruit, hints of blueberry and boysenberry along with concentrated plum and cherry backed up by milk chocolate, lavender, cloves, spicy oak, freshly ground coffee and slate minerals on a backbone of dusty tannins that need time to integrate. The full-bodied and highly extracted palate is complex and layered with much of the same, with a royal elegance that is evident amongst all the raw power. Give the wine another 18 months before opening and then enjoy through 2025.

Flam, Noble, 2012: It was at this point in composing the list that I realized listing which wines hadn’t been on last years list would have been an easier task, as both Noble predecessors (2010 and 2011 were the first vintages of this marvelous and extra-special wine) made the 2014 and 2015 lists, respectively. Similar to last year’s blend but with Syrah added to the mix, each component (67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% each of Syrah, Merlot and Petit Verdot) represents the absolute best specimens from Flam’s vineyards which was aged for 12 months individually before being blended and then spending another 12 months as the final blend. Once bottled, the wines were regulated to Flam’s cellars for another two years to allow the wine to meld together perfectly and only then was it released. More reminiscent of the 2010 vintage with a big and rich nose of expressive mostly black fruit and a full bodied palate replete with blackberries, cherries, plums, candied cranberries and tart raspberries along with rich chocolate, fresh-cracked black pepper, roasted herbs and earthy minerals, the wine is far more approachable than the 2011 while also representing a more “new world” style than the more subtle 2011 vintage. Very different than the 2011 (which I personally preferred), but definitely worthy of its spot on this list and it should be a welcome addition to any self-respecting oenophile’s cellar. Enjoyable now, the wine will continue to evolve over the next three to four years, after which is should cellar nicely through 2025, maybe longer.

Gvaot, Masada, 2014: Gvaot remains somewhat off the radar screen, an unfortunate fact I chalk up to its initial impression of being overpriced. Regardless of the rationale, every self-respecting wine connoisseur should have “getting to know Gvaot” high on their personal oenophilic “to-do” list for 2017, and their flagship Masada wine is as good a place to start as any. Maintaining the Bordeaux-blend style Gvaot has been utilizing since it introduced the Masada wine with the 2005 vintage, the wine is comprised of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Petit Verdot, which spent approximately 22 months in French oak and yielding 14.5% AbV. Highly extracted and complex, the wine showcases layers of rich black fruits, plenty of tart red fruit providing nuance along with fresh-cured tobacco leaf, mocha, roasted coffee, flinty minerals and warm roasted Mediterranean herbs providing a pleasing bitterness in the mid palate that enhances the near-sweet fruit and provided a welcome contra to the richness. Retaining Shivi’s characteristic elegance while presenting an immensely powerful wine, I’d give this one the time is deserves to become all that it is intended to be. Enjoy 2018 – 2024.

Hajdu, Proprietary Red, 2014: Giving the wine an air of mystery to go along with its utter deliciousness, the varietals and percentages are not officially disclosed with the only information being the Napa Valley Howell Mountain source for the grapes. Despite capitulating to market demand and producing a Bordeaux blend (instead of sticking to his beloved Rhone varietals), the wine easily maintains his characteristic style of highly-extracted rich, dense and near-sweet fruit with searing tannins and oak influence all of which are kept in check with tight control and finesse, exhibiting grace and balance of the epic components he put together. This powerful and rich wine needs plenty of time to come together but once it does, you will be rewarded with rich notes of blackberries, ripe black cherries, fleshy cassis and tart red fruit, joined by hints of ripe blue fruit and plenty of spice; all backed by toasty oak and a dense core of gripping tannins and judicious acid which bodes well for the future development of this wine. A full-bodied palate with highly extracted and mostly dark fruit is enhanced with rich baker’s chocolate, forest floor, earthy minerals, a hint of eucalyptus and anise with more smoky oak undertones providing a delicious nuance that lingers. Give the wine 2-3 hours of air or 12 months before opening and enjoying through 2024 [Only in the US].

Herzog, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill, 2013: Herzog continues to evolve and has a number of wines these days that could contend for the “flagship” moniker, including the Generation VIII and the Clone #6, however this was has held that slot for nearly two decades, showcasing incredible longevity, especially for a mevushal wine (other than the delightful 1997 vintage, which is still going strong) and finesse. Consistently excellent, the 2013 ranks among the best yet, with the 2014 surpassing it (although not for this list as I only recently tasted the wine in 2017) but only barely. Rich, dense and powerful this is simply a great wine that showcases elegance and excellence without flaunting it. A densely rich nose of blackberries, black cherries and plums with freshly cracked black pepper, sage, thyme and eucalyptus, cloves, baker’s chocolate and some spicy oak leads into a full bodied palate has plenty more ripe black fruit, more spicy oak, some earthy minerals and cigar-box tobacco notes along with a pleasing and subtle hint of eucalyptus.  A lingering finish of more near-sweet black fruit, slightly toasty oak, warm spices and rich baker’s chocolate leaves you wanting more. Drink now through 2029.

Kishor, Savant, Riesling, 2014: I was strongly tempted to have half the list be white wines, with the 2014 Kayoumi Riesling from the perennially under-appreciated Carmel Winery getting beat by this wine by half a hair and the Shirah Furmint, German Riesling and the Elvi InVita (all listed on the “Most Interesting / Exciting” list below) all nearly making this list, but in the end the sheer finesse and elegance of many wines on this list beat the crisp and clean lines of the white wines I continue to adore. That said, Kishor is certainly a winery well worth knowing (stay tuned for a full blown post in the next few weeks), both due to the nature of its employee makeup (comprised of special needs adults) and its consistently improving winemaking, with recent vintages really showing beautifully and this wine is no exception. While off dry as opposed to bone dry, the wine represents one of the only “Mosel-style” wines produced in Israel with a subtle nose and a shy demeanor that belies the elegance and flinty minerals that lie beneath. As the wine opens, look for tart green apples, an alluring combo of eucalyptus and mint, a whiff of petrol, fresh-brewed green tea and a stiff saline background backed up by sufficient acidity to make this wine enjoyable on its own or with a host of different dishes. Enjoy now and over the next 12-18 months [Only in Israel].

Tzora, Shoresh, White, 2015: While the vast majority of wineries covered on this list so far all have multiple wines that easily compete for additional slots on this list, Tzora stands a head and shoulders above the rest and I believe safely ensconced in the top slot for best winery in Israel. Some may find it strange that a 100% sauvignon Blanc wine beat out the incredible 2013 flagship Misty Hills or the [best yet] 2014 Shoresh Red blend or event the luscious 2013 late harvested Gewürztraminer “Or”, but to me the sheer elegance and sophistication coaxed out of the grapes along with the sheer dominance of the Shoresh terroirs so tied to Tzora’s personality on the medium bodied palate, made this the wine I felt most represented what Eran accomplished at Tzora this past year. With a vibrant nose of classical Sauvignon Blanc notes of rich grapefruit, citrus pith, fresh-cut grass, boysenberry and blooming flowers, the wine gets under your skin as son as you uncork the bottle and doesn’t stop until it has you completely under its charm with judicious acidity keeping the flavors lively and fresh on the medium bodied palate, hints of near-sweet tropical fruits giving the wine additional layers of complexity and a pleasing bitterness laden with chalky limestone minerals, hints of tart green apples, more grassy notes, some pepper and warm spices and loads more sweet and bitter citrusy notes all blending together in one harmonious and joyful pitch. Drink now through 2020 and drink as often as you can.

Most Interesting / Exciting Wines of 2016 (in alphabetical order)

Domaine La Ferrage, Cote De Brouilly, Beaujolais, (Louis Blanc Selection), 2012: While Beaujolais Nouveau has periodically had decent representation in the kosher wine world, its tradition for being consumed immediately on release, made it a hard one to track down and enjoy over any extended period of time, giving me another reason to rejoice in the discovery of this wine, different in style than the Nouveau while providing the same rich and red fruit and joyful expression of the Gamay grape the genre represents (I was initially surprised by its 2012 vintage before realizing that this wasn’t your typical Beaujolais Nouveau). 100% Gamay as dictated by tradition, the medium-bodied wine has well-rounded tannins and exhibits the typical Beaujolais characteristics of ripe currents, black cherries and boysenberries along subtle notes of tart red strawberries and raspberries, with earthy minerals and hints of cherry, with a not-unwelcome touch of banana in the mid-palate joined by fresh lavender and a hint of gun smoke with black fruit and pleasantly slightly bitter tannins rising on the lingering finish.  Drink now an over the next 12 months [Only in the US].

ElviWines, InVita, 2014: A terrific blend of Pansa Blanca (60%) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%) sourced from La Roca del Vallés located in the Alella DO. While I have had a soft spot for this wine since its first release in 2009 given its crisp complexity, refreshing citrus notes and bracing acid, at my recent visit with Moises we tasted it side by side with the 2010 vintage which provide some real insight to what the grape (and wine) can do with a little extra time in the bottle. While $15 wines don’t typically get put away for aging, I’d urge you to make an exception for a few bottles of this wine as the time will enable it to evolve into a richer and more viscous wine with plenty of oomph. The 2015 was just released, is not yet in the US and I have not tasted but the 2014 is bright and fresh with an aromatic nose bursting with zesty citrus, green apple, hints of ripe and tart raspberries long with plenty of floral notes, a hint of the viscosity the wine will develop over time and with a core of acidity that keeps the wine dancing on your palate and making it more than a match for a delightfully wide array of foods. Medium bodied with plenty of the racy fruit accompanied by saline minerals, more green apple and robust citrus, this is another of those white wines that will make a convert out of any remaining “only red wine” drinkers. Even without the bargain price tag that grants it the YH Best Buy label, this is a wine that is well worth seeking out and enjoying over the next 1-3 years [Only in Europe].

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, Late Disgorged, Blanc de Blanc, 2000: I first learned about this wine many years ago from Daniel Rogov who posted about it on his forum in 2011, for some reason its existence was denied by the winery when I inquired about it. However, good things come to those who wait and the wine was released to great fanfare a few months ago. Despite the exceptionally limited quantities, the wine is still available for purchase (500 NIS) at the winery’s visitor center in the Golan Heights and I recently tasted the wine on two separate opportunities. While not as fresh or vibrant as I had expected, the wine retained a lovely mousse and offered up plenty of the yeast brioche, lemon pith and orange notes so present it its [much] earlier disgorged sibling, while also showcasing more vanilla, fresh-baked apple turnovers and nuanced notes of mocha and minerals. With sufficient acidity keeping the wine fresh and vibrant it was a delightful experience and a welcome (albeit expensive) opportunity to try something new. Stay tuned for the 2005 late disgorged as well [Only in Israel].

Gvaot, Jandali, 2016: While Recanati’s 2014 Marawi was the first wine to put Shivi Drori’s ancient wine research on the global map, the glowing New York Times article back in 2015 already mentioned his next big hit – that of the Jandali grape. After watching Recanati assume the glory from his research, Gvaot decided to go at this one alone, with this wine being the second commercially produced wine coming out of Shivi’s research center in Ariel University. Both Avi Feldstein and the Crimesarian Winery have previously produced a Jandali-based wine, but Gvaot’s is the first kosher option. A subtle nose of funky tropical fruit, grassy notes, a hint of melon, bell pepper and spices, the medium bodied palate has good acidity levels keeping the wine crisp and refreshing while providing a completely new flavor profile that intrigues [Only in Israel].

Mia Luce, Syrah with Stems, 2015: As any reader of this newsletter is well-aware, I have been a huge fan of the wines turned out by Kobi Arbiv under his Mia Luce label for nearly a decade now. With Ido Lewinsohn recently decamped to Barkan and Gil Shatzberg assuming new duties at Recanati’s Northern facility, it remains to be seen what will happen to his role at Recanati, but his winemaking prowess will undoubtedly continue to impress at Mia Luce, regardless of what the coming months may bring. Departing from his traditional Carignan-based blend, for 2015 Kobi launched two new and impressive wines – a Carignan/syrah/Marselan (“CSM”), “Mediterranean-influenced” blend and this wine – a rich Syrah, reminiscent of those sourced from Crozes-Hermitage. Fermenting 33% of the grapes in whole clusters and another 33% with separated stems yielded a rich and succulent Syrah with gobs of rich red fruits including candied cherries that maintain great structure and provide a juicy and succulent wine with streaks of black pepper, grilled meat, lavender and floral notes providing an austere elegance and sexy backbone that pleases immensely. The medium to full bodied palate has nicely integrating and near-sweet tannins along with bracing acidity keeping the luscious fruit in check. Spicy oak, earthy minerals and warm herbs provide some savory nuances that add complexity and tantalize the palate as it opens up with air. Drink now through 2021, maybe longer [Only in Israel].

Psagot, 7, White, 2015: One of the few wineries to produce “keep Shmitah” in full while still producing commercial levels of wine, Psagot decided to make only two wines for 2015 – one red and one white, while blending all of their respective grapes into one of these two wines. Unlike some other examples of what I like to refer to as “kolboinik” wine, this one turned out pretty decent, showcasing Yaacov Oryah’s exceptional talent for all things white-related. Plenty of sweet tropical fruits on the heady nose are tempered by lovely spice and near sweet citrus notes of tangerine and grapefruit with additional intriguing notes of lychee, heather, spicy clover honey and slate minerals leading onto the medium bodied palate where sufficient acidity keeps the fruit in check while also providing a background holding everything together. Intriguing and delicious with sufficient complexity to hold the interest of even the more jaded wine lovers. Drink now through 2018 [Only in Israel].

Shirah, Furmint, 2015: Continuing to experiment with exotic varietals, among this year’s new releases was a dry Furmint from the Weiss Brothers. Best-known for its role in Tokaj dessert wines due to its propensity for late-ripening (and botrytis); Furmint also plays a lead role in some of Hungary’s single-varietal dry wines. Sourced from the Alder Spring vineyard that has produced so many of their recent hits, this 100% Furmint wine spent nine months aging in 15% new oak before being released. With pleasing hints of guava, pineapple, Bosc pears and slightly smoky oak, white pepper and other spices, the wine is intriguing and well made (and improves dramatically with 1-2 hours of decanting), providing the “different” experience all us wine geeks continuously crave – while also pairing well with a multitude of dishes [Only in the US].

St. Urbans-Hof, Nik Weis, Gefen Hashalom, 2014: While the ultimate kosher “Holy Grail” (d’Yquem) remains out of reach [for now], as the ranks of kosher wine lovers continues to swell, many former such “Holy Grail” wines continue to fall by the wayside with former contenders including kosher quality versions of “real” Port, Burgundy, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and many others. This wine constitutes the most recent unicorn to fall, representing “true” German Riesling. While Alsace has produced some very nice kosher options over the years, for many wine snobs, real Riesling only comes from Germany, with the Mosel region representing the birthright of the varietal. As you will see from the notes, it’s truly a delightful wine and while decently priced, was not widely distributed. Likely a result of the widely held aversion many Jews continue to have with respect to German products, (a position shared by my family which made procuring everyday items somewhat challenging growing up in Israel during the 80s when reparations where at full throttle and e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g in the country those days came from Germany), many missed out on this delicious wine which, standing on its own – is a treat. With my experience limited to the few Alsatian versions produced over the years, I found the wine to showcase more depth of character than most other versions I have enjoyed in the past. Rated trocken on the dryness scale, the wine opens with voluptuous nose of apricots, peaches, quince, heather is accompanied by the “traditional” notes of petrol knows as among the wine’s primary aromatic characteristics, with ripe tangerine, warm spices and slightly savory notes rounding out the nose. A medium bodied and oily palate in rich and deep with slate minerals and a hint of chalky limestone, more tropical fruits and austere citrus notes rounding things out and giving the wine a lovely edginess that does a good job of balancing out the near-sweet fruit (alongside the well-balanced acidity that does its part as well). At 11.5% AbV (and assuming you are OK with German products), this is a wine that needs to be an integral part of your drinking portfolio (and another good contender for your Thanksgiving repast). Definitely enjoy now, but try and put a bottle or two away and see how it ages through 2022, maybe longer (the 2015 was recently released in the US) [Only in the US].

Tenuta Monchiero, Barolo, 2010: While the kosher wine world continues to enjoy the continued breakage of glass ceiling after glass ceiling, certain facts and circumstances continue to stand in the way of certain genres including Barolo, Brunello and others, with the unifying theme being wines that require a v-e-r-y long time before they are approachable, and thus “sellable” to mainstream consumers (most of which, open the cork within 45 minutes of purchase). With only a handful of kosher Barolo options, I was happy to “discover” a new option, a remnant of somewhat less-than-fortuitous circumstances that ended up with a happy ended – at least for us kosher wine lovers! Obviously a completely different manifestation of Nebbiolo than the California-version above, the wine needed hours of airtime before it started to shed its skin and reveal itself. Sage, thyme and other warm Mediterannean herbs opened up the wine’s nose, enveloping the notes of black cherries, dark chocolate, black pepper, garrigue and cured tobacco leaf in a green velvety wrap. The medium to full bodied palate opens with searing tannins that need time to settle down and continue to integrate but the elegant structure and balance are easily identifiable with plenty of minerals, fresh-paved asphalt and more tobacco leaf lending themselves to an intriguing palate that reveals itself, slowly, one layer at a time. Really nice wine and worth giving it the time it deserves to be fully appreciated. 14% AbV. It can be enjoyed now with at least two hours of decanting; I’d recommend giving the wine 12-18 months more before enjoying through 2025, maybe longer [Only in the US].

Yaacov Oryah, Alpha Omega, 2014: A limited edition (less than 300 bottles) blend of Roussanne, Viognier and Sémillon that was prepared like an Orange Wine and was allowed to macerate on its skins for over two months (73 days) yielding a rich, bold and funky wine that I found to be fascinating but won’ be to everyone’s taste. With his first attempt at Orange wine spending just two weeks on the skins, the Alpha Omega represents a quantum leap forward in this regard. With my only experience in Orange Wines being Yaacov’s I am hard pressed to better describe it but using the biblical “HaKol Kol Yaacov VeHaYadayim Yedei Eisav” (“the voice is the voice of Yaacov, yet the hands are the hands of Esauv”) wouldn’t be inappropriate in this case. A rich aromatic nose is redolent with rich orange and lemon, honeysuckle, candied citrus peel, scented candles, a whiff of oily petrol, jasmine, lavender and crazily enough – subtle notes of smoked meat. The medium bodied and layered palate has a slightly oily feel to it that is backed up with plenty of acidity that also keeps the rich fruit in check and a completely unnerving tannic structure that can provide whiplash if you aren’t expecting it. With gun smoke, melon, tart green apple and more juicy citrus, the wine toys with your senses and reveals layers and layers of notes as time passes by. A long and lingering slightly tart and savory finish rounds out this incredibly different (and delicious) wine. Made in Yaacov’s house without any formal hashgacha the wine doesn’t carry any kosher symbols but like his prior wines, he vouches for it, which was enough for me. Definitely a must try which is enjoyable now and should cellar nicely through 2020, likely longer [Only in Israel].

#320 – September 22, 2016 (“Mix and Match”)

One of the most frequently-asked questions I receive is with respect to finding the “right” wine(s) to go with any number of specific dishes and/or holiday meals.  As any frequent reader of this newsletter knows, my general belief is that wine is a beverage that can and should bring pleasure and therefore, generally speaking, one should drink the wines you like with the food you like. That said, there are some pretty easy-to-follow tips that can bring an even higher level of enjoying to your Yom Tov meals and are worth discussing in advance of the coming Chagim.

Even though a fair amount of wine is enjoyed without the accompaniment of food, I believe food and wine are soulmates that should rarely be separated.  Similar to the Torah’s description of man and woman’s ability to complete each other, wine and food below together, with each bringing something to the table that enhances the other and provides a platform for Aristotle’s quote to be realized.  Whether via modern technology like Google or Amazon or the “Old World” methods of your local bookstore or library’s bookshelves, you quickly realize how many hundreds of thousands of pages have been dedicated to searching for that elusive perfect pairing.  Pop culture is in on the game, having engaged British spy James Bond to enshrine a (now-outdated) axiom in our hearts and minds when Bond (in “From Russia with Love”) castigates himself for failing to identify SPECTRE assassin Red Grant as a “bad guy” solely by virtue of having ordered red wine with fish.

With its historical prevalence, one cannot really fault the screenwriter for utilizing an inaccurate “truism”, especially one that hails from “the good old days” when food was substantially more homogeneous.  However, even ignoring our progressive age of culinary crossover and exploration, the characteristics of the wine in question have always been are far more important that its color.  As we are all aware, plenty of red grape varieties (e.g. Pinot Noir & Barbera) can be made in such a way that mimics a white wine to a significant degree; and vice-versa, with many white varietals having the ability to be gussied up to match many characteristics of a red wine(e.g. Chardonnay being the prime example).

With wine writing typically unable to provide a solid economic footing, the livelihood of many is dependent on their ability to convince you of the sheer necessity and utter importance of fine-tuning the nuances of wine and food pairing to a near-neurotic degree so that you will buy the copious amount of written material on the subject.  As such, it won’t come as a surprise that the importance of these nuances happens to be the prevailing mindset among the world’s wine professionals (all happy to assist with the perfect book, many of which seem to require an advanced degree in molecular chemistry in order to succeed at the pairings).  All the way on the other end of the happy go lucky – everything goes spectrum are those who chalk it all up to monumental wine snobbism meant to be ignored by most normal wine drinking folks and who ascribe to drinking the wine you want/like with whatever happens to be on the table.  Have the urge to enjoy your bottle of vintage 2005 Château de Valandraud with some mi-cuit salmon? Go for it (even if it may out you as an assassin working for Rosa Klebb)!

Personally, my view on this topic represents my general philosophy when it comes to enjoying the nectar of the gods – do with your wine that which brings you (and yours) pleasure and enjoyment, regardless of the prevailing common wisdom or opinion of so-called experts (with the one, most obvious, exception being consumption of the blue-bottled abomination that should never happen – ever).  Drink the wines that bring you the most pleasure, whether mouth-puckering and acid loaded Sancerre, oak-aged ripe Cabernet Sauvignon wines or full-bodied buttery Chardonnays.  Bring them to the table regardless of what culinary fare is being served.  As one of the first wine writers I enjoyed reading has said “the happy fact about wine and food is that, like Pizza, even when bad it can still be pretty good”.

However (and there is always a “but”), regardless of the sometimes pompous puffery and scientific bularky, there is a ton of legitimate science behind food pairings and a highly successful pairing has the power to elevate dining to a transcendental experience.  The majority relates to the manner in which different food compounds interact with those in the wines (and in the other dishes with which they are served).  In order to help make your Yom Tov (and all other) meals more enjoyable (or even transcendental), this week’s missive contains some general tips and helpful suggestions for thinking about your food and wine is a slightly different way; a way that will make it easier to create a more harmonious combination of foods and wine.

Before getting into specifics with respect to the individual characteristics of the wine and food in question, one should first consider whether the goal of the pairing is to complement or contrast.  If a complementary pairing is desired, focusing on the dominant flavors in the relevant dish can be helpful in finding a matching wine.  Pairing the 16 ounce aged ribeye in pepper sauce with a spicy Syrah or Zinfandel will provide complementary nuances as will a buttery Chardonnay with a sea bass poached in farm-fresh French butter.  Other examples would be to pair a meat dish sweetened by a fruity sauce or glaze with a red wine that is very fruit-forward or utilizing the savory and earthy notes in a classic Bordeaux to match with a dish redolent with pungent mushrooms or other umami-heavy foods.  If your goal is to showcase the uniqueness of either the food or wine, you might prefer to use the textures of each to showcase a contrast between the two.  Utilizing texture leads to many of the more well-known pairings including matching the grease-laden traditional Chanukah latkes and sufganiyot with a crisply acidic Sauvignon Blanc or sparkling wine (that has the added grease-cutting abilities drawn from its bubbles).

One of the most important things to consider are the characteristics of the wine and food in question, with the wine’s “weight” or how it feels in your mouth (heavily influenced by the alcohol content) being the most important piece of the puzzle and the easiest to understand – lighter wines go with lighter food and heavier wines make better pairings with heavier dishes.  The rationale being that one wants the food and wine to complement each other as opposed to one overwhelming the other.  The nuanced beauty of a delicate and complex Pinot Noir could be obliterated by a perfectly constructed beef bourguignon, whereby a rich and slightly spicy Shiraz would provide the needed heft to match the dish round for round.  The need for proper balancing of the weight is the genesis of the now-infamous “white with fish and red with meat” rule, but given the dizzying array of possible weights for fish (think of lighter white fish versus heavier tuna and salmon), poultry (lighter chicken versus heavier turkey or goose) and meat (veal is significantly lighter than beef), the simplistic cliché is not really relevant.

While the alcohol level plays a big part in the weight of the wine, a dizzying array of other wine components all have a say in how well a wine will pair with any particular food or dish.  Any list of factors to be taken into consideration when thinking about wine and food pairing will include the levels of acid, alcohol and sugar in any particular wine, along with the oak influence and strength of its tannins.  Similar to salt’s role when flavoring food, acid acts as an enhancer, highlighting the primary flavors in any particular food.  As long as the wine is balanced (a complex topic we have discussed in the past), the higher the acidity levels the better the wine will pair with food.  A white wine’s acidity levels, together with its level of dryness (i.e. lack of residual sugar) will contribute to its “crispness”, which can serve as a lovely balance to fatty foods.  While acid can be (and is) added to any wine (a practice especially prevalent in hotter-climate wine-growing regions, where the wines ripen too quickly for their natural acidity levels to be sufficiently preserved), some grape varietals are more natural acidic then others including Barbera, Sangiovese and Sauvignon Blanc.  As I mentioned, the acid-levels in wines from colder regions trend higher as do, surprisingly, the wines cultivated on the hilltop owned by Four Gates Winery (as an acid, higher acid levels can be beneficial to long-term aging as well).

In addition to their influence on a wine’s weight (and the resulting food-compatibility), higher alcohol in a wine can overwhelm delicate flavors in a dish by creating a bitter sensation, but can play very nicely with sweeter foods (e.g. most dessert wines are relatively high in alcohol).  In addition to their über-importance in a wine’s structure, balance and aging ability, a wine’s tannins can be softened by pairing them with fatty and high-protein foods like steak and certain cheeses.  However, when paired with sweeter foods, the tannins can have the negative impact of diminishing the sweetness and making the food seem dry and bitter (e.g. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and rich chocolate fudge cake are not the best pairing).  Keep in mind is that a dish’s sauce or glaze will often provide the dominant flavor in a dish so make sure to take the flavors and textures of the sauce when thinking through any wine pairing scenarios.  Another tidbit is to ensure that any dessert wine you are serving should be sweeter than the dessert it is expected to accompany.

Especially when you are contemplating a multi-course meal with numerous dishes and/or dominant flavors in each course, the thought of coming up with a “proper” wine pairing can seem significantly overwhelming (especially on top of actually cooking all that delectable food).  If the thought causes you stress just stick to some generally food friendly wines, that manage to pair nicely with a wide array of different flavors (using my individual newsletters and recommendations for each varietal to make a good choice).  Chief among such wines is Champagne (or other good sparkling wines), whose crisp dry acidity, typically low(er) alcohol level and refreshing bubbles ensure a wine-range of pairing opportunities and make it my go-to pairing partner (besides providing you with the welcome opportunity to significantly up your sparkling wine consumption).  Other options are crisply dry Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Riesling and Cabernet Franc.  While they can certainly provide magnificent pairings with a little bit of thought and advance planning, bigger and bolder Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are not wines that can be relied on to safely pair with anything you put in front of them (with tannin likely a food pairings worst enemy).  One of the kosher wine world’s many ironies is that these two varietals are the best-selling wines for a consumer base whose primary method of wine consumption is during Shabbat and Chag meals where the need for versatile wines is the greatest.

Despite all of the above, my initial comment remains as the most important factor – the awesomeness of any particular pairing hinges on whether you like the wine or food in question.  Sauternes and foie gras may be a classic (and insanely divine) pairing, but it won’t be enjoyable to you if you don’t like one or Sauternes or foie gras (although then you have other issues).  As the assassin retorted to 007’s somewhat snobbish quip – quip “you may know your wines, but you’re the one on your knees.”