2023 Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Reviewing my Pesach newsletters from the past two years had quite an impact on me.  As we have moved past the Covid pandemic, it can be easy to forget the havoc it wreaked across the world for so long, along with its many victims – something which this chag should really teach us not to do.  Learning from the past is an important aspect of our Weltanschauung and one that makes us better, stronger and more connected.  If there was ever a time in which the Jewish people needed to be reminded of our historical unity, it is know!  I am so happy to be seeing folks returning to having their sederim with large groups of family and friends but fervently hope that we remember the lessons of the past year(s) and continue to take pleasure in the simple enjoyment of close family and friends, while reaching out to assist our fellow Jews for whom the chag may not be as joyous for a host of reasons .

As Pesach is a celebration of the Jewish people coming together a nation for the first time, this is an easy idea to get behind with everything we have got.  Personally, I find choosing wine for our sedarim a worthy endeavor to apply some effort too, especially given the teaching by our sages that wine gladdens the heart and there is no joy without wine (and meat).  With wine such an integral part of the Pesach holiday, physical and spiritual aspects combined, my hope is that this annual guide makes the task easier and hopefully helps in enhancing this year’s seder we are each about to undergo, regardless of our personal circumstances.  Take the opportunity to recognize all you have and take some time to contemplate the nature of the holiday – it will serve to enhance things dramatically.

Now, with the philosophical messaging out of the way, onto wine!

Busy Times

Typically, the weeks leading up to Pesach are the US kosher wine industry’s busiest, with more kosher wine purchased during this period than the rest of the year combined (in Israel, Rosh Hashanah is nearly as busy a buying season as Pesach and wine buying is also more evenly spread throughout the year).  Personally, purchasing wine for Pesach remains one of my favorite parts of Pesach prep, a feeling I am sure is shared by most committed wine lovers, and this year has yielded some new and exciting wines for every budget and palate preference.  However, even though the more than 5,000 different kosher wines being produced annually includes more than 100 disparate varieties of unmentionable options like wines with Cream in their name, Manischewitz, variations of Yayin Patishim and of course the Blue Bottle Abomination, there remain far too many potentially valid options for any sane human being to wade through.

Elevated Stress Levels

Each year we discuss the elevated stress levels brought on by cooking commercial amounts of restaurant-grade brisket and enough matza balls to feed Napoleon’s army while attempting to eradicate every speck of dirt from the inside of your oven with a toothbrush, with the hope that this Guide will eliminate wine choices as a potential area of stress.  Despite its monumental importance, I feel very strongly that the wine selection process for your chag should as easy, stress-free and enjoyable as possible.  That said, as most subscribers also use the guide throughout the year to assist with their regular wine shopping, we are including all the various usual components to assist in this endeavor as well.

The hardest aspect of wine buying is the sheer (and ever-increasing) number of choices available to the consumer these days, as one contemplates the near-endless number of choices on the shelves or webpage of your favorite retailer.  Without sufficient (and conflict-free) guidance, consumers are usually reduced to selecting wines based on the wine’s label, packaging (gift boxes for wine are a big incentive for some) or a more recent trend – uber heavy bottles for more popularly-priced wines, a guaranteed losing strategy.  Exacerbating the issue are several additional mitigating circumstances, including the sheer number of mediocre-at-best available wines (along with an unacceptable amount of true dreck) and the unfortunate incentives leading many retailers to separate you from your hard-earned shekels by promoting these sometimes quite awful wines.  While the level of knowledge within the kosher wine industry has grown tremendously over the last few years, the primary reason customers continue to leave stores with less than worthy options remain the lack of knowledge by those selling the wines, occasionally more sinister reasons are at play (e.g. “incentives”) so (as with all other shopping experiences) – caveat emptor.  Other potential pitfalls to navigate is the aggravating inability of many retailers to accurately provide the vintage year of the offered wines and the classic “bait and switch” with an oenophilic twist – advertising great deals for highly allocated wines without having them in stock, and then trying to unload significantly inferior wines to unsuspecting consumers.  Adding to the morass is the fact that many stores and online purveyors continue carry (and sell) wines so far past their drinking windows as to be criminal.

Help is Here

With a desire to help reduce stress levels in any way I can, I have once again curated my Pesach Wine Buying Guide from among the thousands of available options.  Hopefully the Guide will simplify your wine shopping and free you to spend time with the remainder of chag preparation, while having time to spend with your family and other loved ones.

As with most other retail experiences, inflation (and other factors) has continued to wreak havoc with pricing so, for the first time ever I have slightly moved the goal posts on the range of price tiers for The Guide (the number of wines over $200 is somewhat overwhelming).  This year I have included my top recommendations for wines in the following five price tiers: (1) Under $20, (2) between $20-34.99, (3) between $35-54.99, (4) Over $55 and (5) Moshiach Wines.  As most of my readers know, Moshiach Wines are wines that I would proudly serve the Moshiach, were I ever sufficiently deserving for him to grace my Seder table.

Many of the wines on this list will not come as a surprise to my regular readers given their perennial appearance over the years resulting from the consistent excellence of their producers and the talent of the applicable winemaker.  As the quality and quantity of top-notch kosher wines continues to expand, the number of contenders for the Guide has increased exponentially, exacerbating the already difficult process of putting together this highly curated list (listing every single contender would defeat the entire purpose of creating the Guide).  Representing less than 5% of all commercially available kosher wines, the list could serve to eliminate all stress involved in sifting through the menagerie of options.  I am also making my regular plug for drinking more white wines.  If you are one of those unfortunate and self-proclaimed “I don’t drink white wine” people, please take this as an opportunity to try something new – I promise you won’t be disappointed.

The Fine Print

As a corporate lawyer with over 20 years of deal-making under my belt, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that a list of this magnitude comes with some fine print and a few important caveats.

1. The Guide isn’t intended to be a comprehensive list of every wine I believe worthy of your consideration. It represents a selection of the better wines available across different pricing tiers; each of which I recommend and believe worthy of your Pesach table.  As I have written far less over the past year than ever before, I have included more wines than usual on the list to compensate.  Of course, all wines remain subject to their recommended drinking window.

2. Broadly speaking, most wines from Dalton, ElviWines, Flam, Gvaot, Herzog (in their Lineage & Special Reserve series) Recanati and Tzora are worth buying, even if they aren’t listed below.

3. With a few rare exceptions I didn’t repeat any wines listed in last year’s guide and many of last year’s wines are still available on the shelves and remain in top drinking condition so check out last year’s list for additional suggestions and/or vintages, as many of those are still available and drinking beautifully!

4. Some wines may only be available either in Israel or the US and I have tried to mark them as such. While there remain a number of wines that remain available only in their country of production (e.g. most winemaker “Pet Projects” in Israel, Four Gates and Shirah in the US and a number of French options in Europe), the vast majority of recommendable Israeli wines are imported to the US these days (Shmita excepting) and most of the Herzog/Royal wines that were formerly “US Only” wines, are exported to Israel, making this list more useful across the broadly disparate geographic location of my 11,000 subscribers.

5. Due to the disparate geographical disbursement of my reader base, the listed vintages may be different depending on which part of the world your shopping cart is in (although vintages tend to also shift from local retailer to retailer and distributor to distributor, depending on how much of the prior vintage they have left in stock). Especially for Israeli wines, different vintages are available in Israel and outside of Israel.

6. It is always best practice to consult me before buying a recommended wine from a different vintage but in this case, given the fluctuation in quality of recent vintages and potential shipping/storage issues, I’d be even more careful than usual when utilizing this list to purchase non-listed vintages.

7. As with most goods, wine prices have dramatically escalated over the last 12 months, so wines in each tier have often moved up to the more expensive slot. Additionally, prices fluctuate wildly from location to location, so when determining the price tier for each wine I typically average among several US online and brick and mortar options to achieve what is hopefully an average price for the various wines.  However, listed wines in your local market may not always fall exactly within the listed price points (online price-checking is always a good idea, as is asking retailers to match listed prices).

Seder Drinking Conundrum

Despite occupying a top spot on any oenophile’s list of favorite customs, the tradition to consume four full cups of wine at the Seder can be tricky to navigate, with a handful of potential issues requiring some thought.  Thankfully, with a bit of thoughtful planning they can all be easily mitigated.

First and foremost is that four full (or even partially full) cups of is a lot of wine to consume at one sitting, especially given the fact that the first two cups are typically imbibed on an empty stomach.  Another issue stems from the tradition of using a silver goblet for Kiddush (and the rest of the cups).  While the easy solution of pouring the wine into a proper wine glass immediately following the recital of Kiddush works beautifully on a regular Shabbat or chag, the lengthy Haggadah reading between pouring the wine and consuming it results in longer wine-silver contact that is advisable.  Other potential issues include the (halachik driven) tradition of using only red wines and avoiding mevushal wines during the Seder.

With the Seder representing one of the most important meals on the Jewish calendar, people try to have the nicest (and often the correlatingly most expensive) wines possible, creating yet another potential conundrum.  Despite being among the kosher wine world’s best, the in-store vintages of popular high(er)-end wines from Bordeaux, Italy, Spain, Israel and California are not yet ready to drink and unlikely to be properly appreciated giving the hurried manner in which most of the Seder’s four cups are mandated to be consumed.  Many of the better wines are full-bodied, oak aged and boldly flavored; all attributes not very conducive to Seder drinking (even with extensive decanting).  With the combination of the empty stomach with which most people approach the first two cups, the halachic requirement to consume nearly an entire cup of wine rather rapidly and the oft-additional stress from trying to corral hyperactive children; most Sedarim are unlikely to offer ideal conditions for enjoying such magnificent wines.  That said, if your current circumstances allow for a leisurely seder enhanced by the finest wines in your cellar – go for it!  Nothing elevates a meal like sharing a special and well-aged wine with friends and family and the spiritual aspects of wine sanctifying our table and seder-night experience would make using your best bottles to elevate the exalted experience as good a use of Moshiach wines as I can fathom.

The Perfect Solution

So, unless you are among the rarified company enjoying a seder conducive to such Moshiach wines, I suggest saving the more expensive wines for leisurely drinking during Shulchan Aruch and the plethora of subsequent holiday meals, while finding other worthy options for the Seder’s four cups.  Being a traditionalist, my personal custom is to use red wines for all four cups, while selecting wines that fulfil a few basic criteria to ensure their enjoyment through the long Seder meal.

Over the last few years, the use of rose as a Seder wine has gained popularity.  With color, relatively low acidity, affordability and a mass appeal, the option has a lot going for it.  That said, I personally find it to be a simpler and more quaffable genre, lacking the necessary gravitas for such an exalted meal.  Additionally, the quality of availability rose wines to have decreased (in a nearly correlative manner to its increasing popularity) to such a degree that recommending them as an appropriate genre doesn’t feel right to me.

Seder night is one of the most exalted evenings we get to spend in G-d’s company.  It is an evening dedicated to celebrating our emancipation from historical slavery the coalescing of the Jewish People into a unified nation with collective responsibility for one another (a concept more important to remember these days than ever before).  Given the importance of the evening, utilizing top-notch wine should remain a pre-requisite to proper execution of the Seder.  The diverse and wide-ranging array of palate preferences around a typical seder table calls for a diverse range of wines.  Coupled with the significant amount of wine to be consumed by the large gathering of family and friends, I focus on approachable, medium bodied quality wines that are enjoyable without the requirement of any level of oenophilic sophistication (or even appreciation).  Over the years, my “go-to” Seder wines have included Israeli Petite Sirah from Vitkin and Recanati, entry-level Spanish & Italian wines from ElviWines and Terra di Seta respectively, well-priced Bordeaux, Mia Luce’s CSM blend and well-made Pinot Noir.  To the extent you are looking for well-priced and versatile white (or Rosé), good bets will be rosé from Dalton or Hajdu; Sauvignon Blanc from Yarden, Covenant and Goose Bay, Pinot Grigio from Dalton or Yarden and Rieslings from Carmel, Kishor or Vitkin..

Parting Advice

During this busy buying season, retailers pull out all the stops to bring in your dollars with big sales everywhere.  Between the increasing competition and online availability of most top-notch kosher wines, most wine merchants will match any published price, so always ask your favorite retailer to match the prices you have seen elsewhere and, if you aren’t happy with the price – ask for a discount.

With all the explanations behind us, I present my annual

Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Under $20

Rising prices have somewhat decimated this list, with many previously well-priced options moving up to the next price point.  However, there are still several good options on this list, each of which yields a good and enjoyable wines, albeit these wines aren’t complex or cellar worthy (with a few exceptions).  With oak barrels representing a significant percentage of a wine’s cost (actual cost and the time-value of aging), many of these wines have spent little to no time in oak contributing to their lower prices.  Along with focusing on “Safe Bet” wineries, more popular varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay tend to be more expensive than their lessor known peers.  Instead of reaching for the tried and true, seek out other varieties form the same winery or series which will usually be a bit cheaper.  Suggestions include Barbera, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Gewürztraminer, Grenache, Marselan, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Roussanne, Sangiovese and Tempranillo.

 

 

    1. Cantina Giuliano, Vermentino, 2021
    2. Cellar de Capçanes, Peraj Petita, Rosat, 2022
    3. Château les Riganes, Red, Bordeaux, 2021 [mevushal]
    4. Covenant, Mensch, Zinfandel, 2022 [mevushal]
    5. Dalton, Pinot Grigio, 2022
    6. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja (Semi-Crienza), 2020 (white/blue label)  [mevushal]
    7. ElviWines, Herenza, White, 2021 (f/k/a InVita)
    8. ElviWines, Vina Encina, White, 2020  [mevushal]
    9. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 (also 2021 Hermon Indigo)
    10. Herzog, Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2020 [mevushal]
    11. Herzog, Lineage, Sauvignon Blanc, 2022 [mevushal]
    12. Koenig, Riesling, Alsace, 2020  [mevushal]
    13. O’Dwyers Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021  [mevushal]
    14. Pacifica, Viognier, 2020  [mevushal]
    15. Ramon Cardova, Rioja, 2019  [mevushal]
    16. Recanati, Colombard, 2022 (also 2022 Carignan) [Israel]
    17. Recanati, Yasmin, White, 2022 [mevushal]
    18. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, 2020

$20 – $24.99

As the average price of a quality bottle of kosher wine continues to surge (this tier absorbed a fair number of wines previously in the under $18 range), it’s refreshing to find several wineries valiantly trying to hold their ground at affordable.  While most great wines cost more than $30, there are plenty of good ones here as well.  In general, I find Carmel, Dalton, ElviWines, the Golan Heights Winery and Recanati to be consistent players in price range.

    1. Ari Earle Wines, Dabuki, White, 2022 (Bat-Shlomo’s winemaker) (also 2022 Dabuki Barrel [Israel])
    2. Bat-Shlomo, Sauvignon Blanc, 2022 (also 2021 Chardonnay)
    3. By Teperberg, Barbera, 2021 (Ast. Winemaker Dani Friedenberg wine) (also 2020 Grenache) [Israel]
    4. Carmel, 4 Vats, Mediterranean, Shomron, 2021
    5. Carmel, Appellation, Petite Verdot, 2018 (also Cab. Sauvignon/Shiraz 2018) [both mevushal]
    6. Château D’Arveyres, Bordeaux, 2019 [mevushal]
    7. Château Forcas Dupre, Listrac Medoc, 2020
    8. Château Lamothe-Cissac Haut-Médoc, 2019
    9. Château Meilhan, Medoc, 2020 [US]
    10. Château Royaumont, Lalande de Pomerol, 2019
    11. Christophe Patrice, Gendraud Patrice, Chablis, 2020 [US]
    12. Covenant, Landsman, Pinot Noir, 2021
    13. Covenant, Red C, Rose, 2022 (also 2022 Viognier)
    14. Covenant, The Tribe, Chardonnay, 2021 (also 2022 Red C Sauvignon Blanc)
    15. Dalton, Alma, Rose, 2022
    16. Dalton, Asufa, Coast to Coast, 2019
    17. Dalton, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021
    18. Domaine du Haut-Montlong Les Hauts des Noilettes, Vieilles Vignes, Monbazillac, 2020 [US]
    19. Domaine Guillerault Fargette, Sancerre, 2020
    20. Drimia, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 [Israel]
    21. ElviWines, Cava, Brut, N.V.
    22. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja (Crianza), 2018 (Black Label)
    23. Feldstein, Dabuki, 2022 (also 2021 Roussanne) [Israel]
    24. Feldstein, Gilgamesh, 2019 [Israel]
    25. Feudi del Pisciotto, Merlot, Sicily, 2019
    26. Five Stones, D V G, White, 2022 (also 2022 Rose)
    27. Flam, Classico, 2021
    28. Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla), Brut, N.V.
    29. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Syrah, 2019
    30. Goose Bay, Pinot Grigio, 2022 (also 2021 Chardonnay) [mevushal]
    31. Goose Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 [mevushal]
    32. Gush Etzion, Lone Oak, Viognier, 2021 (also 2019 Cabernet Franc)
    33. Gush Etzion, Spring Valley, GSM, 2021
    34. Hagafen, Pinot Noir, Coombsville, 2021 [mevushal]
    35. Hajdu, Pinot Blanc, 2022 [US]
    36. Herzberg, Village, 2020 (also Reserve 2021)
    37. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2020 (also 2020 Napa) [mevushal]
    38. Herzog, Variations, Cabernet Sauvignon, Five, 2020 (also 2020 American Oak) [mevushal]
    39. Invei, Malbec, Rose, 2021 [US]
    40. K Syrah, by Zev Dunie, Syrah, 2019 [Israel]
    41. Matar, Stratus, 2019
    42. Pescaja, Solei Terre Alfieri, Arneis, 2021
    43. Pinto, Rose, 2022 (also the 2021 White Sands) [both Israel]
    44. Psagot, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 (also Viognier)
    45. Psagot, Sinai, Red, 2021 [mevushal]
    46. Ramon Cardova Albarino, 2020
    47. Recanati, Gris de Marselan, Rose, 2022
    48. Recanati, Single Vineyard, Chardonnay, Manara, 2020
    49. Segal, Beta, Rose, 2022 (also 2022 “Other Red”) [both Israel]
    50. Segal, Wild Fermentation, Chardonnay, 2019 (also 2019 Native Marawi)
    51. Sheldrake Point, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, 2021
    52. Shiloh, Legend, Fiddler, 2020 (also 2020 Privilege) [both mevushal]
    53. Shiloh, Shor, Merlot, 2020 [mevushal]
    54. Shirah, One | Two Punch, 2019
    55. Shiv’im, Red, 2020 [Israel]
    56. Tabor, Single Vineyard, Marselan, 2019
    57. Teperberg, Essence, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018
    58. Teperberg, Essence, Pinot Gris, 2021 [Israel]
    59. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Riserva, 2018
    60. Tinazzi, Desto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Costa Vento, 2018 [US / mevushal]
    61. Tura, Ridge, 2021
    62. Twin Suns, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 [US / mevushal]
    63. Tzuba, Chardonnay, 2019
    64. Vitkin, Israel Journey, White, 2021 (also 2022 Rose)
    65. Weinstock, Cellar Select, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso, 2020 [mevushal]
    66. YA Winery, by Yossi Ashkenazi, Kerem Ben Zimra, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021
    67. Ya’acov Oryah, Light from Darkness, 2022
    68. Yaffo, Hommage (Reserve), Malbec, 2021
    69. Yaffo, Hommage (Reserve), Viognier, 2021 (also 2021 Chardonnay)
    70. Yatir, Darom, White, 2021
    71. Yatir, Mount Amsa, White, 2020
    72. Yotam Sharon Wines, L’esprit de Yotam, Red, 2020 (also 2021 Cuvee Vera)

$35 – $55

While a lot of good options sit in this category, many of them really should be priced in the lower range but have crept up in price for no justifiable reason.  It’s harder to sell wines in this price range than the one above or below it.  It’s also nearly impossible to find a YH Best Buy on this list.  As with most higher-end wines, especially those with a year or more of barrel aging, these need time to open (often the current vintage should be regulated to a few years of aging since it simply isn’t ready for primetime).  In any event, do yourself a favor and get a decanter to ensure that you are obtaining maximum benefit from these wines if you don’t or cannot cellar them before enjoying.

 

 

      1. Agur, Layam, Blanc, 2022
      2. Bat-Shlomo, Regavim, 2019
      3. Carmel, Mediterranean, 2019
      4. Cellar de Capçanes, La Flor del Flor de Primavera, Samso, 2017
      5. Cellar de Capçanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, Montsant, 2021 [mevushal]
      6. Champagne Bonnet-Ponson, Brut, n.v. [US]
      7. Champagne Drappier, Brut Nature, Zero Dosage, Rose, N.V.
      8. Champagne Drappier, Carte D’ Or, Brut, N.V.
      9. Château Guiraud, G, 2019 (Dry)
      10. Château Hautville, Saint-Estephe, 2021
      11. Château Rollan de By, Medoc, 2019 [mevushal]
      12. Château Tour Seran, Medoc, 2019 [mevushal]
      13. Covenant, Lavan, Chardonnay, 2021
      14. Flam, White, 2022 (white label; different than the Flam Blanc)
      15. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, 2T, 2019
      16. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Brut, Rose, 2016
      17. Gvaot, Dances in White, 2022 (also 2022 Rose)
      18. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2020
      19. Hagafen, Merlot, Napa Valley, 2018 [mevushal]
      20. Hagafen, Prix Reserve, Merlot, 2018 [mevushal]
      21. Hagafen, Prix Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc, 2018 (also the 2018 Syrah) [both mevushal]
      22. Hajdu, Barbera, 2021 (also 2021 Tannat) [US]
      23. Herzog, Special Edition, Chardonnay, Chalk Hill, 2021 [mevushal]
      24. Herzog, Special Reserve, Quartet, 2020 (also 2020 Lake County) [both mevushal]
      25. J. De Villebois, Sancerre, Silex, 2021 [US]
      26. Jean Marc Brun Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits, 2021 [US]
      27. Jean-Paul Seguin, Sancerre, Cuvee Tradition, 2020 [US]
      28. Jean-Pierre Bailly, Pouilly-Fume, 2021 [US]
      29. Kishor Vineyards, GSM, 2020 (also 2021 Mourvèdre)
      30. Kishor Vineyards, Riesling, 2021 [Israel]
      31. Kishor Vineyards, White Kishor, 2022
      32. L’enclos, Vin Rouge Sec, 2020 (personal wine by Olivier Fratty – Barkan’s new head winemaker) [Israel]
      33. Les Marrionniers, Chablis, 2021 [mevushal] (also the 2020 Premier Cru)
      34. Les Roches de Yon-Figeac, Saint-Émilion, 2020
      1. Midbar, Grenache, 2020 [Israel]
      2. Netofa, Latour, White, 2020
      3. Netofa, Tel Qasser, Red, 2019 (also 2019 White)
      4. Pe’er Winery, Black Sheep, Red Blend, 2019 [Israel]
      5. Pescaja, Soliter, Barbera d’Asti, 2020 [US]
      6. Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Wild Carignan, 2020 (also 2020 Petite Sirah)
      7. Rocca di Frassinello, Le Sughere di Frassinello, Toscana, 2020 [US]
      8. Segal, Whole Cluster, Pinot Noir, 2018
      9. Shiloh, Secret Reserve, Petite Sirah, 2019 [mevushal] (also Merlot 2019)
      10. Shirah, Coalition, 2019
      11. Shiran, Semillon, 2021 (also the 2020 Soprano)
      12. Shiran, The Song of the Birds, 2020
      13. Stoudemire, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019
      14. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione, Assai, 2016
      15. Tzora, Judean Hills, White, 2021
      16. Tzora, Shoresh, Red, 2021 (also 2021 Shoresh White)
      17. Vitkin, Carignan, 2019 (also 2019 Petite Sirah & 2020 Pinot Noir)
      18. Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Grenache Blanc, 2020
      19. Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Grenache Noir, 2019 [Israel]
      20. Ya’acov Oryah, Alpha Omega, SMLH Viognier, 2021(also 2021 Gewürztraminer)
      21. Ya’acov Oryah, Black Pinecone, Pinot Noir, 2019 [Israel]
      22. Ya’acov Oryah, Valley of the Hunters, 2017 [Israel]

Over $55

Over the decade of producing the Guide, many deserving wines were repeatedly excluded because they were priced over $50 and didn’t quite make the exalted “Moshiach Wine” club.  Whether any particular wine is “worth it” is a subjective matter with a newsletter all to itself, these are great wines that will bring great pleasure while properly honoring your Pesach experience.  Even more than the prior tier, proper aeration and cellaring will have a huge impact of extracting maximum pleasure from these wines.

    1. Bat-Shlomo, Winemaker’s Collection, Collage, 2020
    2. Bernard Magrez, Servitude de la Tour Carnet, Haut-Medoc, 2017 [US]
    3. Castel, Raziel, 2019 (also the Raziel Sparkling Rose)
    4. Château Angelus Carillon de l’Angélus, 2020
    5. Château Bellefont Belcier, Saint Emilion, 2020
    6. Château Bernard Magrez, Saint-Estephe, 2018 [US]
    7. Château Clarke, Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Listrac-Medoc, 2020
    8. Château Clement-Pichon, Haut-Medoc, 2020
    9. Château Fayat, Pomerol, 2020
    10. Château Haut-Breton Larigaudiere, Margaux, 2019
    11. Château Kirwan, Margaux, 2018 [US]
    12. Château Le Crock, Saint-Estephe, 2020 [mevushal]
    13. Château Leoville de Poyferre, Pavillon de Leoville Poyferre, Saint Julien, 2020
    14. Château Luchey-Halde, “S”, Pessac-Leognan, 2016 [US]
    15. Château Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Leognan, Blanc, 2020
    16. Château , Margaux, 2019
    17. Château Meyney, Saint-Estèphe, 2020
    18. Château Montviel, Pomerol, 2020
    19. Château Olivier, Pessac-Leognan, 2020
    20. Château Piada, Sauternes, 2020
    21. Château Sainte Marguerite, Cuvee Symphonie, Blanc, Cotes de Provence, 2021
    22. Covenant, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2020 (also 2020 Syrah)
    23. Covenant, Solomon, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020
    24. Domaine Aegerter, Volnay, 2020 [US]
    1. Domaine du Chateau Philippe le Hardi, Beaune, 2020
    2. Domaine de Chevalier, L’esprit de Chevalier, Graves, 2019
    3. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja, Reserva, 2016 (also EL 26 2019)
    4. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Single Vineyard, Syrah, Bar’on, 2019
    5. Gvaot, Masada, 2020
    6. Herzog, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill, 2019
    7. Jean-Philippe Marchand, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2019 (also 2019 Volnay)
    8. Jean-Philippe Marchand, Meursault, 2021
    9. Lueria, Gran Vital, 2018
    10. Mia Luce, CSM, 2020
    11. Shiran, Limited Edition, Carignan, 2020 (also the Limited Edition Tempranillo)
    12. Teperberg, Legacy, Cabernet Franc, 2018 (also 2018 Petite Sirah)
    13. Tzora, Misty Hills, 2019
    14. Valle Reale, San Calisto, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, 2018
    15. Vignobles Mayard Le Hurlevent, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020
    16. Yatir, Forest, 2019

Moshiach Wines

Moshiach wines are the really special wines that represent top-notch winemaking and plenty of patience on the consumer’s part to allow the wines the additional aging time in the bottle before the wine showcases all it can be (and the perfection intended by the winemaker).  The word is derived from the fact that I’d be proud to serve these wines to the Moshiach were I ever so lucky as to have him grace my [Seder] table.  Unfortunately, as our world continues to devolve into the pursuit for instant gratification, the terrible crime of consuming high-end wines shortly after they are purchased is a crying shame.  While certain top tier wines are structured for immediate consumption and long-term aging, a few years of aging nearly always does good things for these wines and is worth the extra time, effort and patience.  With the continued global expansion of my Rosh Chodesh Club concept (over 30 regular monthly meetings worldwide), more and more folks and getting to experience the immense pleasure derived from properly aged mature wines and with the recognition that a few years of storage can yield a stratospheric ROI, many more wines are finding their way to the cellar instead of the table upon purchase – which is a great thing!

Please note that some of the Moshiach wines are very limited-edition wines that may not be easily available at your local retailer.  While they may be a tad difficult to lay your hands on, I promise they are all worth the extra effort and additional expense.  Additionally, and as is the case with many of the best wines, many become Moshiach wines only after a few years of aging.  As older vintages (that have been stored properly) are somewhat difficult to come by the list includes the current vintage for many of the wines and, for a few the wines I have included (at least one of) the vintages that makes the wine fit for the Moshiach (buy the current vintages, store them properly for a few years and voila – house-Moshiach wines).

      1. Château Cantenac Brown, 2018 (2015)
      2. Château Giscours, Margaux, 2020 (2003)
      3. Château Lafon Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 2020 (2003, 2010)
      4. Château Lascombes, Margaux, 2020 (2015)
      5. Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2020 (2000, 2005)
      6. Château Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Léognan, 2020 (2005)
      7. Château Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan, 2017 (2014) [US]
      8. Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2020 (2003)
      9. Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, 2019 (2009, 2014)
      10. Covenant, Lot 70, Solomon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 (2011)
      11. Domaine Aegerter, Meursault, 2020 [US]
      12. Domaine de Montille, Pommard, Les Grands Epenots, 2020 (also Volnay & Puligny-Montrachet) [US]
      13. Domaine Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2015 (2005, 2011) [US]
      14. ElviWines, Clos Mesorah, 2019 (2010)
      15. Four Gates, Chardonnay, 2018 (2007, 2011) [US]
      1. Hajdu, Proprietary Red, 2020 (2010) [US]
      2. Herzog, Generation IX, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, 2020 (2018)
      3. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone Six, 2019 (2011)
      4. Marciano, Marciano Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 20202 [US]
      5. Yaacov Oryah, Old Musketeer, Sweet White Wine, 2008 (Ten Year Release) [Israel / Shmita]

2022 Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Once again Pesach is upon us, but what a difference a year makes!  While Covid continues to wreak havoc across the globe, its impact on our day-to-day lives continues to thankfully diminish and many folks are looking forward to the Pesachs of yesteryear, with large gatherings of family and friends, along with travel to different locales for a change of pace, scenery and weather.  While all a good thing, it is my fervent hope that we remember the lessons of the past year(s) and continue to take pleasure in the simple enjoyment of close family and friends, while reaching out to assist our fellow Jews for whom the chag may not be as joyous for a host of reasons.

As Pesach is a celebration of the Jewish people coming together a nation for the first time, this is an easy idea to get behind with everything we have got.  Personally, I find choosing wine for our sedarim a worthy endeavor to apply some effort too, especially given the teaching by our sages that wine gladdens the heart and there is no joy without wine (and meat).  With wine such an integral part of the Pesach holiday, physical and spiritual aspects combined, my hope is that this annual guide makes the task easier and hopefully helps in enhancing the strangely unique seder we are each about to undergo, regardless of our personal circumstances.  Whether you are back to a large family gathering or continuing to celebrate on a smaller scale, take the opportunity to recognize all you have and take some time to contemplate the nature of the holiday – it will serve to enhance things dramatically.  Now, with the philosophical messaging out of the way, onto wine!

Busy Times

Typically, the weeks leading up to Pesach are the US kosher wine industry’s busiest, with more kosher wine purchased during this period than the rest of the year combined (in Israel, Rosh Hashanah is nearly as busy a buying season as Pesach and wine buying is also more liberally spread out through the year).  As we slowly return to some semblance of normal, buying wine for Pesach remains one of the best parts of Pesach prep for every committed wine lover and this year has yielded some new and exciting wines for every budget and palate preference.  However, even though the more than 4,500 different kosher wines being produced annually includes almost 100 disparate varieties of “Fake Wines” like wines with Cream in their name, Manischewitz, variations of Yayin Patishim and of course the Blue Bottle Abomination, there remain far too many labels for any sane human being to wade through.

Elevated Stress Levels

Every year we talk about the elevated stress levels brought on by cooking commercial grade amounts of brisket and matzah balls while attempting to eradicate every speck of dirt from the inside of your oven with a toothbrush with the goal of ensuring Seder wine selection won’t be an added source of stress.  With another year of pandemic-related stress under everyone’s belts, I feel more strongly than ever before that wine selection should be as easy, simple and enjoyable as possible.  However, as this guide is used by most readers throughout the year as a benchmark for which wines to acquire and all the potential pitfalls remain (and then some), we are going to remain focused on the usual matters the guide is mean to help alleviate.

With wine such an integral part of the Pesach experience, the massive number of choices can create a particularly stressful shopping experience as one contemplates the near-endless number of choices on the shelves or webpage of your favorite retailer.  Exacerbating the issue are several mitigating circumstances including the sheer number of mediocre-at-best available wines (along with an unacceptable amount of true drek) and the unfortunate tendency of many retailers to part you from your hard-earned shekels by selling these less than worthy wines.   Typically stemming from a lack of knowledge, occasionally more sinister reasons are at play so, caveat emptor.  Other aggravating obstacles include lack of vintage transparency and the oenophilic “bait and switch” – advertising great deals for allocated wines without having them in stock and then selling you copious amounts of sub-par wines.  Adding to the fun is the terrible fact that many stores and online purveyors continue to sell wines that are so far past their optimum drinking windows that it’s practically criminal.

Help is Here

With a desire to help reduce stress levels in any way I can, I have once again curated my Pesach Wine Buying Guide from among the thousands of available options.  Hopefully the Guide will simplify your wine shopping and free you to spend time preparing the rest of chag while spending time with your family and other loved ones.

The Guide covers my top recommendations for wines in the following five price tiers: (1) Under $18, (2) between $18-29.99, (3) between $30-49.99, (4) Over $50 and (5) Moshiach Wines.  As most of my readers know, Moshiach Wines are wines that I would proudly serve the Moshiach, were I ever sufficiently deserving for him to grace my Seder table.

Many of the wines on this list will not come as a surprise to my regular readers given their perennial appearance over the years resulting from the consistent excellence of their producers and the talent of the applicable winemaker.  As years go by and the quality and quantity of top-notch kosher wines grows, the potential wines for this list gets longer, increasing the difficulty in providing this highly curated list (listing every good wine would defeat the entire purpose of the list).  Representing less than 5% of all commercially available kosher wines, the list should go a long way in easing the pain of sifting through all your options.  With the quality of white wines increasing year over year, there are more white wines on the list than in prior years, especially on in the lower price ranges.  If you are one of those unfortunate and self-proclaimed “I don’t drink white wine” people, please take this as an opportunity to try something new – I promise you won’t be disappointed.

The Fine Print

As a transactional lawyer with over 20 years of deal-making under my belt, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that a list of this magnitude comes with some fine print and a few important caveats.

  1. The Guide isn’t intended to be a comprehensive list of every wine I believe worthy of your consideration.  It represents a selection of the better wines available across different pricing tiers; each of which I recommend and believe worthy of your Pesach table.  As I have written far less over the past year than ever before, I have included more wines than usual on the list to compensate. Of course, all wines remain subject to their recommended drinking window.
  2. Broadly speaking, the majority of wines from Dalton, ElviWines, Flam, Gvaot, Recanati, Tzora and Yaacov Orayh are worth buying, even if they aren’t listed below.  With a few rare exceptions I didn’t repeat any wines listed in last year’s guide and many of last year’s wines are still available on the shelves and remain in top drinking condition so check out last year’s list for additional suggestions and/or vintages.
  3. Some wines may only be available either in Israel or the US and I have tried to mark them as such.  While there remain a number of wines that remain available only in their country of production (e.g. Four Gates and Shirah in the US and a number of French options in Europe), the vast majority of recommendable Israeli wines are imported to the US these days (Shmita excepting) and most of the Herzog/Royal wines that were formerly “US Only” wines, are exported to Israel, making this list more useful across the broadly disparate geographic location of my 11,000 subscribers.
  4. Due to the disparate geographical disbursement of my reader base, the listed vintages may be different depending on which part of the world your shopping cart is located in (although vintages tend to also shift from local retailer to retailer and distributor to distributor, depending on how much of the prior vintage they have left in stock).  Especially for Israeli wines, different vintages are available in Israel and outside of Israel.
  5. It is always best practice to consult me before buying a recommended wine from a different vintage but in this case, given the fluctuation in quality of recent vintages and potential shipping/storage issues, I’d be even more careful than usual when utilizing this list to purchase non-listed vintages.
  6. As with most goods, wine prices have dramatically escalated over the last 12 months, so wines in each tier have often moved up to the more expensive slot. Additionally, prices fluctuate wildly from location to location, so when determining the price tier for each wine I typically average among a number of US online and brick and mortar options to achieve what is hopefully an average price for the various wines.  However, listed wines in your local market may not always fall exactly within the listed price points (online price-checking is always a good idea, as is asking retailers to match listed prices).
  7. To ensure the practical functionality of this list, I have not included wines only available to wine club members (e.g., Covenant’s Landsman, Hajdu’s Guild, Herzog Tasting Room) and have significantly reduced the number of listed wines that aren’t generally available or have sold out (e.g., Four Gates wines).

Seder Drinking Conundrum

Despite occupying a top spot on any oenophile’s list of favorite customs, the tradition to consume four full cups of wine at the Seder can also present a number of potential issues that can be prevented with a bit of advance thought and planning.

First and foremost is that four full (or even partially full) cups of is a lot of wine to consume at one sitting, especially given the fact that the first two cups are typically imbibed on an empty stomach.  Another issue stems from the tradition of using a silver goblet for Kiddush (and the rest of the cups).  While the easy solution of pouring the wine into a proper wine glass immediately following the recital of Kiddush works beautifully on a regular Shabbat or chag, the lengthy Hagada ensures far more contact with the silver during the Seder.  Other potential issues include the common traditions of using only red wine and avoiding mevushal wines during the Seder.

With the Seder representing one of the most important meals on the Jewish calendar, people try to have the nicest (and typically the most expensive) wines possible, creating yet another potential conundrum.  Despite being among the kosher wine world’s best, the currently available high-end wines from Bordeaux, Italy, Spain, Israel and California are unlikely to be properly appreciated giving the hurried manner in which most of the Seder’s four cups are mandated to be consumed.  Many of the better wines are full-bodied, oak aged and boldly flavored, attributes not very conducive to Seder drinking.  Between the empty stomach with which most people approach the first two cups, the halachic requirement to consume nearly an entire cup of wine rather rapidly and the oft-additional stress from trying to corral hyperactive children; most sedarim are unlikely to offer ideal conditions for enjoying such magnificent wines.  That said, if your current circumstances allow for a leisurely seder enhanced by the finest wines in your cellar – go for it.  The spiritual aspects of wine sanctifying our table and seder-night experience would make using your best bottles to elevate the exalted experience as good a use of Moshiach wines as I could conjure.

The Perfect Solution

So, unless you are among the rarified company enjoying a seder conducive to such wines, I suggest saving the more expensive wines for leisurely drinking during Shulchan Aruch and the plethora of subsequent holiday meals, while finding other worthy options for the four cups.  Being a traditionalist, my personal custom is sticking with red wines for all four cups, while using a few basic principles to choose the proper wines.  Many folks like to use rose as a good compromise and with the genre’s popularity soaring, many options are already available.  However, the quality of kosher rose has been severely declining over the last 4-5 years and the 30 or so samples I have tasted to date have done nothing to disprove me of the view that another mediocre crop of rose is upon us.

Despite the less than adequate conditions mandated by our traditions and extra important given the circumstances we all find ourselves in, Seder night is one of the most exalted evenings we get to spend in G-d’s company, while celebrating our freedom from oppressive slavery and the coalescing of the Jewish People into a nation with collective responsibility for one another.  As such top-quality wine is still a pre-requisite.  As much of the world reverts back to large(r) family gatherings with friends and family, the wine-range of potential palate preferences and extended sitting calls for a diverse range of wines.  Therefore, I focus on affordable medium bodied quality wines that are highly approachable and enjoyable even without any oenophilic sophistication.  Over the years, my “go-to” Seder wines have included Israeli Petite Sirah from Vitkin and Recanati, entry-level Spanish & Italian wines from ElviWines and Terra di Seta respectively, some of the well-priced newer options from Bordeaux and the multiple lovely Pinot Noir wines from around the world.  To the extent you are looking for well-priced and versatile white (or Rosé); good bets will be rosé from Dalton or Hajdu; Sauvignon Blanc from Yarden, Covenant and Goose Bay, Pinot Grigio from Dalton or Yarden and Rieslings from Carmel, Kishor or Vitkin.

Parting Advice

During this busy buying season, retailers pull out all the stops to bring in your dollars with big sales everywhere.  Between the increasing competition and online availability of most top-notch kosher wines, most wine merchants will match any published price, so always ask your favorite retailer to match the prices you have seen elsewhere and, if you aren’t happy with the price – ask for a discount.

With all the explanations behind us, I present my annual

Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Under $17.99

Rising prices have somewhat decimated this list, with many previously well-priced options moving up to the next price point.  However, there are still a number of good options on this list, each of which yields a good and enjoyable wines, albeit these wines aren’t complex or cellar worthy (with a few exceptions).  With oak barrels representing a significant percentage of a wine’s cost (actual cost and the time-value of aging), many of these wines have spent little to no time in oak contributing to their lower prices.  Along with focusing on “Safe Bet” wineries, varieties less popular than Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay tend to be cheaper given their relative lack of familiarity.  As such, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Roussanne and Gewürztraminer will usually provide better bang for your buck and are good places to look for bargains.

Most of the wines on these lists qualify as YH Best Buys (wines especially worthy of your hard-earned cash).

  1. Cantina del Redi Pleos Toscana Sangiovese, 2019
  2. Cantina Giuliano, Vermentino, 2020
  3. Château Canteloup, Medoc, 2019
  4. Château Genlaire, Bordeaux, 2019
  5. Château Trijet, Bordeaux, 2020
  6. Dalton, Estate, Rose, 2021
  7. Dalton, Fume Blanc, 2020
  8. Elvi, Vina Encina, White, 2019 (also the 2018 Red)
  9. Elvi, Herenza, White, 2019 (f/k/a InVita)
  10. Elvi, Herenza, Rioja (Semi-Crienza), 2019 (white/blue label)
  11. Essa, Altira, South Africa, 2021
  12. Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla), Brut, N.V.
  13. Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla), Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2019
  14. Goose Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021
  15. Herzog, Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 [mevushal]
  16. Herzog, Lineage, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 [mevushal]
  17. MAD Winery, Aleph, Blaufrankisch, 2015
  18. O’Dwyers Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020
  19. Pacifica, Riesling, 2018
  20. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, 2019
  21. Recanati, Yasmin, White, 2021
  22. Recanati, Galil, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021
  23. Recanati, Rose, 2021
  24. Recanati, Galil, Syrah, 2020 (also the Petite Sirah [Israel])

$18-29.99

As the average price of a quality bottle of kosher wine continues to surge (and this tier containing many previous members of the under $18 range), it’s refreshing to find a number of wineries valiantly trying to hold their ground at affordable.  While most great wines cost more than $30, there are plenty of great ones here.  In general, I find Carmel, Dalton, ElviWines, the Golan Heights Winery and Recanati to be consistent players in price range.

  1. By Teperberg, Grenache, 2020 (Assistant Winemaker Dani Friedenberg wine)
  2. Carmel, 4 Vats, Mediterranean, Shomron, 2019
  3. Carmel, Appellation, Merlot, 2017 (also the 2018 Gewurztraminer)
  4. Château D’Arveyres, Bordeaux, 2019
  5. Château Greysac, Medoc, 2019
  6. Château Signac, Cotes du Rhone, 2020
  7. Covenant Sauvignon Blanc, Red C, 2021 (also the 2020 Mensch)
  8. Dalton, Alma, Rose, 2021
  9. Dalton, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020
  10. Dalton, Asufa, Wild One, Chenin Blanc, 2020 [Israel]
  11. Dalton, Asufa, Levintina, 2019
  12. Dalton, Alma, Red Blend, 2019
  13. Drimia, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 + 2021 [Israel]
  14. Elvi Wines, Cava, Brut, N.V.
  15. Elvi Wines, Herenza, Rioja (Crianza), 2018 (Black Label)
  16. Flechas De Los Andes, Malbec, 2021
  17. Fura, Chenin Blanc, 2020 [Israel]
  18. Goose Bay Pinot Grigio, 2021
  19. Gush Etzion, Lone Oak, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 (also the Viognier)
  20. Hagafen Dry Riesling, 2021
  21. Herzog, Variations, Cabernet Sauvignon, Five, 2019 (also the 2019 American Oak) [mevushal]
  22. Koenig Brut, Cremant d’Alsace, N.V.
  23. La Foret Blanche, Talpiot, Red, 2019
  24. Les Lauriers des Rothschild, Montagne Saint-Émilion, 2019
  25. Pescaja, Solei Terre Alfieri, Arneis, 2019
  26. Pinto, Chardonnay, 2020 [Israel]
  27. Psagot, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 (also the Gewurztraminer & Viognier)
  28. Psagot, Sinai, Red, 2020
  29. Ramon Cardova Albarino, 2019
  30. Recanati, Med Blend, White, 2019
  31. Recanati, Single Vineyard, Chardonnay, Manara, 2019
  32. Recanati, Single Vineyard, Chenin Blanc, 2020 [Israel]
  33. Sheldrake Point, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, 2020
  34. Shiloh, Rose, 2021
  35. Shiloh, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021
  36. Teperberg, Inspire, 150th Anniversary, White Blend, 2021
  37. Teperberg, Essence, Pinot Gris, 2020 [Israel]
  38. Teperberg, Imagine, Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot & Cabernet Franc), 2020
  39. Teperberg, Essence, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018
  40. Tura, Snow, 2020
  41. Tura, Mountain Vista, Heartland, 2020
  42. Tzora, Judean Hills, White, 2020 (also the Red)
  43. Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Dry Gewurztraminer, 2020 (also the 2020 Riesling)
  44. Vitkin, Israel Journey, White, 2020 (also the 2020 Red & 2021 Rose)
  45. Weinstock, Cellar Select, Cabernet sauvignon, 2019 (also the 2019 Chardonnay) [mevushal]
  46. Ya’acov Oryah, Light from Darkness, 2019
  47. Ya’acov Oryah, Queen of Hearts, 2020
  48. Yaffo, Rose, 2021
  49. Yatir, Darom, White, 2020
  50. Yatir, Mount Amsa, White, 2019 (also the 2018 Red)

$30-49.99

While a lot of good options sit in this category, many of them really should be priced in the lower range but have crept up in price for no justifiable reason.  It’s harder to sell wines in this price range than the one above or below it.  It’s nearly impossible to find a YH Best Buy on this list.  As with most higher-end wines, especially those with a year or more of barrel aging, these need time to open up (often the current vintage should be regulated to a few years of aging since it simply isn’t ready for primetime).  In any event, do yourself a favor and get a decanter to ensure that you are obtaining maximum benefit from these wines in the event that you don’t or cannot cellar them before enjoying.

  1. Aura di Valerie, Del Beneventano, Aglianico, 2019
  2. Cantina Sanpaolo, Aglianico, Irpinia, 2018
  3. Carmel, Mediterranean, 2018
  4. Carmel, Single Vineyard, Syrah, Ein Zeitan, 2018
  5. Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico, 2019
  6. Champagne Drappier, Brut Nature, Zero Dosage, Rose, N.V.
  7. Champagne Drappier, Carte D’ Or, Brut, N.V.
  8. Château Guiraud, G, 2019 (Dry)
  9. Château Royaumont, Lalande De Pomerol, 2018
  10. Château Tour Seran, Medoc, 2019
  11. Covenant, Tribe, 2020
  12. Dampt Freres, Chablis, Brechain, Premier Cru, 2018
  13. Drimia, Sahar, Red Blend, 2019
  14. Domaine De Panquelaine, Sancerre, 2020
  15. Domaine Joost de Villebois, Pouilly Fume, 2020
  16. Etoiles de Mondorion, Saint Emilion, 2019
  17. Flam, Blanc, 2021
  18. Flam, Classico, 2019
  19. Gito, Uphaz, 2020
  20. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2014
  21. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Brut, Rose, 2014
  22. Gvaot, Dances in White, 2021 (also the 2019 Vineyards Dance Red)
  23. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Bittuni, 2019
  24. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon – Chardonnay, 2020
  25. Hagafen Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018
  26. Hagafen, Prix Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc, 2018 (also the 2019 Chardonnay)
  27. Hajdu, Zinfandel, 2020 (also the 2020 GSM) [US]
  28. Herzog, Eagle’ Landing Pinot Noir, 2019 (also the 2019 Special Reserve Pinot)
  29. Herzog, Sauvignon Blanc, Acacia Barrel Series, 2020 (also the 2017 Paso Syrah)
  30. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2019 (also the 2019 Lake County)
  31. Herzog, Special Reserve, Merlot, 2018 (also the 2019 Russian River Chardonnay)
  32. Jean Marc Brun Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits, 2019 (also under Jean Philippe Marchand label)
  33. Jean-Pierre Bailly, Pouilly-Fume, 2019
  34. Les Marrionniers, Chablis, 2019
  35. Les Roches de Yon-Figeac, Saint-Émilion, 2018
  36. Midbar, Grenache, 2020 [Israel]
  37. Lueria, Roussanne, 2020 (also the 2020 Pinot Grigio & Unoaked Chardonnay)
  38. Nana Chenin Blanc, 2019
  39. Netofa, Latour, White, 2020
  40. Netofa, Tel Qasser, Red, 2019 (also the 2019 White)
  41. Netofa, Tel Qasser, Moursyr, 2019
  42. Pavillon du Vieux Chantre, Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, 2019
  43. Pe’er Winery, Black Sheep, Red Blend, 2019 [Israel]
  44. Pe’er Winery, Chardonnay, 2020 [Israel]
  45. Pescaja, Soliter, Barbera d’Asti, 2020
  46. Pescaja, Tuké, Terre Alfieri, Nebbiolo, 2019
  47. Psagot, Edom, 2019
  48. Psagot, Cabernet Franc, 2020
  49. Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Petite Sirah, 2018 (also the 2018 Wild Carignan)
  50. Recanati, Special Reserve, White, 2018
  51. Shirah, Black & Blue, Syrah, 2019 (also the 2020 Bro-Deaux Sauvignon Blanc) [US]
  52. Shiran, Semillon, 2019 (also the 2020 Riesling)
  53. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Riserva, 2016
  54. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione, Assai, 2016
  55. Tura, Mountain Heights, Shiraz, 2018
  56. Tzora, Shoresh, Red, 2019
  57. Vitkin, Carignan, 2019 (also the 2019 Petite Sirah & 2020 Pinot Noir)
  58. Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Grenache Blanc, 2020
  59. Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Grenache Noir, 2019 [Israel]
  60. Vitkin, Single Vineyard, Cabernet Franc, 2018
  61. Ya’acov Oryah, Alpha Omega (Orange), Chardonnay, 2019
  62. Ya’acov Oryah, Black Pinecone, Pinot Noir, 2019 [Israel]
  63. Ya’acov Oryah, Late Harvest, Viognier, 2020 (also the 2020 Away We Go [Israel])
  64. Yatir, Creek, Red, 2018 (also the 2019 White)

Over $50

Over the decade of producing the Guide, many deserving wines were repeatedly excluded because they were priced over $50 and didn’t quite make the exalted “Moshiach Wine” club.  Whether any particular wine is “worth it” is a subjective matter with a newsletter all to itself, these are great wines that will bring great pleasure while properly honoring your Pesach experience.  Even more than the prior tier, proper aeration and cellaring will have a huge impact of extracting maximum pleasure from these wines.

  1. Aura di Valerie, Della Valpolicella, Amarone, 2017
  2. Capcanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, Montsant, 2019
  3. Château Castelbruck, Margaux, 2019
  4. Château LaGrange, Saint-Julien, 2019
  5. Château Le Crock, Saint-Estephe, 2019
  6. Château Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Leognan, Blanc, 2019
  7. Château Meyney, Saint-Estèphe, 2018
  8. Château Montviel, Pomerol, 2018
  9. Château Moulin Riche, Saint-Julien, 2019
  10. Château Valandraud, Virginie de Valandraud, 2018
  11. Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon, Lot 70, 2018 (also the 2018 Neshama)
  12. Covenant, Solomon, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020
  13. Domaine Chantal Lescure, Pommard, Burgundy, 2017
  14. Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, 2019
  15. Dalton, Matatia, 2018
  16. Dampt Freres, Chablis, Les Preuses, Grand Cru, 2018
  17. Elvi Wines, Clos Mesorah, Sublim, 2016
  18. Elvi Wines, Herenza, Rioja, Reserva, 2016
  19. Flam, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon. 2019
  20. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Petit Verdot, 2019
  21. Hagafen, Prix Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, MJT Block, 2016
  22. Hagafen, Family Vineyard, Red Blend, 2019
  23. Herzog, Generation IX, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, 2018
  24. Herzog, Special Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill, 2019
  25. Jean-Philippe Marchand, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2019
  26. Jean-Philippe Marchand, Meursault, 2019
  27. Jean-Philippe Marchand, Nuits-Saint-George, 2019
  28. Jean Luc & Paul Aegerter, Hautes-Cotes de Nuits, Bourgogne, 2018
  29. Lueria, Gran Vital, 2018
  30. Marciano, Marciano Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020
  31. Netofa, Dor, 2017
  32. Pavillon de Leoville Poyferre, Saint Julien, 2018
  33. Teperberg, Legacy, Cabernet Franc, 2018 (also the 2018 Petite Sirah)
  34. Tzora, Misty Hills, 2019
  35. Vitkin, Insight, Macabeo, 2019
  36. Yatir, Forest, 2016

 

Moshiach Wines

Moshiach wines are the really special wines that represent top-notch winemaking and plenty of patience on the consumer’s part to allow the wines the additional aging time in the bottle before the wine showcases all it can be (and the perfection intended by the winemaker).  Unfortunately, as our world continues to devolve into the pursuit for instant gratification, the terrible crime of consuming high-end wines shortly after they are purchased is a crying shame.  While certain top tier wines are structured for immediate consumption and long-term aging, a few years of aging nearly always does good things for these wines and is worth the extra time, effort and patience.  With the continued global expansion of my Rosh Chodesh Club concept (over 30 regular monthly meetings worldwide), more and more folks and getting to experience the immense pleasure derived from properly aged mature wines and with the recognition that a few years of storage can yield a stratospheric ROI, many more wines are finding their way to the cellar instead of the table upon purchase – which is a great thing!

Please note that some of the Moshiach wines are very limited-edition wines that may not be easily available at your local retailer.  While they may be a tad difficult to lay your hands on, I promise they are all worth the extra effort and additional expense.  Additionally, and as is the case with many of the best wines, many become Moshiach wines only after a few years of aging.  As older vintages (that have been stored properly) are somewhat difficult to come by the list includes the current vintage for many of the wines and, for a number of the wines I have included (at least one of) the vintages that makes the wine fit for the Moshiach (buy the current vintages, store them properly for a few years and voila – house-made Moshiach wines).

  1. Capcanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, 2009
  2. Château Cantenac Brown, 2018 (2015)
  3. Château Giscours, Margaux, 2018 (2003)
  4. Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 2017 (2001)
  5. Château Haut Condissas, Medoc, Prestige, 2019 (2005)
  6. Château Lafon Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 2017 (2003, 2010)
  7. Château Lascombes, Margaux, 2018 (2015)
  8. Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 2017 (2014)
  9. Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2017 (2000, 2005)
  10. Château Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Léognan, 2018 (2005)
  11. Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2019 (2003)
  12. Château Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes, 2018 (2014)
  13. Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, 2019 (2009)
  14. Domaine Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2014 (2005, 2012)
  15. ElviWines, Clos Mesorah, 2018 (2010)
  16. Flam, Noble, 2018 (2012)
  17. Four Gates, Chardonnay, 2018 (2007, 2011) [US]
  18. Gvaot, Masada, 2018 (2012)
  19. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone Six, 2019 (2011)
  20. Marciano, Marciano Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018 [US]
  21. Tassi, Brunello di Montalcino Franci, Bettina Cuvee, 2016 [US]
  22. Yaacov Oryah, Old Musketeer, Sweet White Wine, 2008 [Israel / Shmita]

Chablis

As I work my way through the last two hundred wines I need to taste for my annual Pesach Wine Buying Guide (which I hope to release early next week), I finally got around to tasting three Chablis wines from Dampt Feres (samples provided by importer Bradley Alan) and decided the region and wine genre deserved some love of its own, leading to this week’s newsletter – covering one of the most plagiarized wine designations around – Chablis.

Like most Old-World wine producing countries, French wines are designated (and labeled) according to the region and appellation from where they are sourced with may sub regions utilized to indicate different qualitative levels.  Generally speaking, the more focused the regional designation (appellation), the higher the quality (driven by purer expressions of terroir and more stringent winemaking requirements intended to protect the quality (and value) of the appellation (like the difference between Italy’s Chianti and Chianti Classico discussed a few weeks ago).

Location, Location, Location

Walking into the town of Chablis is like stepping back in time.  Gabled houses with slate roofs surround a massive church. Narrow streets are full of flourishing bakers, butchers and cafés.  Wineries are literally everywhere – on every street, where they sit behind discreet doors that lead to interior courtyards and underground cellars.  With wineries dominating the town, vineyards dominant the surrounding areas, rising up on both sides of the Serein which gives life to the region’s namesake wine. Without its steep-sided valley and temperature moderation, the vines would not be able to flourish.

Chablis is the northernmost wine district of the Burgundy region in France.  The region covers an area of just over 100 square miles spread across 27 communes located along the Serein river.  The northern locations means that the vineyards are closer (and bear more similarity) to the Loire Valley’s Sancerre and southern Champagne than the Burgundy region is it affiliated (and more closely associated) with, resulting in a cooler climate than the rest of Burgundy (with similar macroclimates to Champagne.

The region’s oldest soil dates back over 180 million years and includes a vineyard soil type that is known as Kimmeridge Clay, upon which all Chablis Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards are planted, imparting the region’s well-known flinty mineral note to the wines.  Other areas of Chablis, particularly those covering the majority of Petit Chablis vineyards, are planted on slightly younger Portlandian soil of similar structure, but with a chalky nature reminiscent of certain areas of Champagne and Sancerre.

Just the Facts

Covering approximately 15,000 acres, the only grape variety permitted is Chardonnay and the region is divided into the four following appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru Chablis and Grand Crus Chablis.  A detailed description of each appellation and its defining characteristics is set forth below.

Chablis’ northern location is a primary factor is the region’s defining characteristics of dry white wines loaded with flinty minerals and backed by vibrant and crisp acidity, Chablis wines present a style utterly distinct form the majority of other Burgundian white wines.  They are generally lighter-bodied and less richly flavored than other White burgundies, showcasing a dryer and more vibrantly fresh palate.  Other than Grand Cru (and certain Premier Cru) wines, the majority of Chablis are unoaked helping drive these characteristics.

One of the most interesting things about Chablis is the dominant impact its terroir has on the Chardonnay grape.  As we have previously discussed, chardonnay is one of the more flavor-neutral grapes, allowing outside factors to dictate much of its aroma and flavor profiles and nowhere is this more pronounced than in Chablis (true with respect to the impact of terroir impact globally, a fact not restricted to Chardonnay).  While sub-regional appellation splits are usually driven by differences in terroir, Chablis’ delineation between its upper rankings grown in the more highly regarded Kimmeridgian soils and the lower ranked Portlandian soils is especially pronounced.  The higher concentration of mineral-rich clay and ancient marine fossils are prime drivers of the high regard in which Kimmeridgian soil is held and the source of the region’s trademark saline and flinty minerality.  The richer and more fruit-forward characteristics of Chablis and Petit Chablis wines stem from the lower levels of clay and fossils in Portlandian soils, allowing for fruitier and less mineral-driven wines.

Even today one can run a hand through the limestone soils and pick out fossilized shells and marine skeletons.  While scientists have yet to agree on the precise effect of soils on the aromas and flavors of any wine, Chablis so clearly expresses these characteristics with little regard for skepticism or science, one simply chooses to enjoy what is poured.

Coming to Your Senses

Known for a greenish-yellow color and heightened clarity, Chablis wines present with racy acidity which can mellow with age into notes of roasted nuts and honey (Chablis are among the best-aging expressions of Chardonnay).  The wines are typically light in body and defined by crisp acidity and subtle delicate fruit nuances.  Typical notes will include flinty minerals, a steely and tension-filled body and hints of gun smoke.  Depending on designation, certain wines will present heightened salinity and notes of wet river rock.  Citrus notes abound as do white flowers and pear with the weight shifting from fruit to tertiary notes depending on the region, oak aging and designation.

Let’s Talk About the Weather

Unsurprisingly given the geographic proximity, Chablis’s climate shares much in common with neighboring Champagne. The summer growing season can be hot while winters can be long and harsh with dangerous frost possible through spring.  Historically, the region’s susceptibility to frost drove many producers to cease wine production in the area (the frost in 1957 was so bad only 132 bottles of Chablis were produced); but over the last few decades, technological advances have provided a number of techniques with which producers can combat the frost (recent years have seen heightened temperatures future enable less stressful growing conditions as well).  Starting in the 1960s, smudge pots and aspersion irrigation were introduced to the region, providing some level of protection against frost’s potentially devastating impact (hail remains a real issue).

Designations

The four appellations are differentiated by the soil types mentioned above as well as the terrain’s incline and proximity to the river.   Many of the Premier Crus, and all the Grand Crus vineyards, are planted along the valley of the Serein river, with all Grand Crus and some of the most highly rated Premier Crus are located on southwest facing slopes (which receive maximum sun exposure, a crucial element given the region’s harsher conditions).  The appellations are as follows:

Petit Chablis.  Only recently designated as an independent AOC (1944), at the lowest end of the classification is “Petit Chablis” which includes the outlying land surrounding the village of Chablis and covers approximately 2,000 acres (out of the total designated 4,448 acres).  The wines tend to have higher acidity and more citrus notes, -like flavors. The wines are best enjoyed cold and within a year or two of release to champion the refreshing dry taste.

Chablis.  Next is the generic AOC Chablis which, at 7,067 acres is the largest appellation by far in the region and the one exhibits the most variability between producers and vintages.  It covers the next “band” in from Petit Chablis as you move closer the village.  Characteristic notes include pear, citrus and pronounced chalk minerals.

Premier (1er) Cru Chablis:  Next up are the 40 Premier Cru vineyards (divided into approximately 70 named plots), which cover around 1,800 acres (representing about 15% of Chablis’ total planted areas).  The Dampt Feres Premier Cru wines reviewed below are sourced from the Cote De Lechet vineyard.  Better access to the sun and higher percentages of limestone are requisites for the Premier Cru vineyards. Premier Cru wines trend a half-percent lower in alcohol than Chablis with more elegant structure and subtle aromas with more distinct flint mineral notes.  The wines must contain at least 10.5% AbV.

Grand Cru Chablis:  Occupying the top of the Chablis food chain, the seven Grand Cru vineyards across the Serein River from the village of Chablis, encompassing a single slope of 257 acres.  Benefitting from southern exposure, the vineyards are planted with Kimmeridgian soil.  In addition to the seven recognized Grand Cru vineyards (Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchot), one additional vineyard (La Moutonne) holds unofficial recognition as such (while also being recognized by BIVB.  Together, the Grand Cru vineyards account for around 3% of Chablis annual yearly production.

Each of the Grand Cru vineyards is noted for its particular terroir characteristics, with widely varying styles among the seven vineyards.  Dampt Feres produces wines in the Les Preuses vineyard which receives the most sun among the Grand Crus and tends to produce the most full-bodied wines.  Some producers produce oak-aged wines, adding a non-traditional savory note to the wine that presents with smokiness.  Fruit notes also range wildly, from intense citrus and tropical fruit to more aged notes of roasted nuts and Asian pear, all depending on the producer’s location and personal style.  Regulations require a minimum of 11% AbV and limited yields of maximum 3.3 tons per acre.

Know Thy History

Chardonnay is believed to have first been planted in Chablis by the Cistercians of Pontigny Abbey in the 12th century, and from there spread south to the rest of the Burgundy region.  The 17th century brought interest from the English (then among the largest importing markets) and by the 19th century there were nearly 98,840 acres planted.  Trouble for the region started in the late 19th century when railway growth allowed for the importation of cheaper wines and then phylloxera hit, devastating the vineyards (along with much of Europe’s vaunted grape-growing regions).  Many Chablis producers gave up winemaking, resulting in a steady decline of planted acreage; by the 1950s there were only 1,235 acres of vines planted in Chablis.  Good times returned by the 20th century, with the introduction of important practices including temperature-controlled fermentation and induced malolactic fermentation.

Coupled with a renewed commitment to quality, the technical developments allowed for better wines to be produced in this difficult wine-growing region.  Partially driven by the rampart global bastardizing of Chablis by using the label for global grape varieties and styles being produced, the official Chablis AOC was created in 1938 (in part to protect the name), mandating Chardonnay as the sole grape variety, creating appellation boundaries and instituting quality controls to defined the designated wines.  The phenomenal growth in Chardonnay’s popularity during themed to-late 20th century significantly enhanced the economic viability of Chablis with plantings growing to over 13,000 acres.
Similar to the legal battles over Champagne, recent years have seen enhanced efforts by producers to protect the Chablis designation, as the wide, semi-generic, use of Chablis outside of France is still seen in describing almost any white wine, regardless of where it was made and from what grapes.

The Wooden Touch

One winemaking issue that is still contested in the region is the use of oak.  Historically Chablis was aged in older neutral oak barrels.  However, use of these barrels wasn’t backed by proper hygiene and often resulted in dramatically faulted wines, leading their usage to fall out of favor and replaced with stainless steel tanks for fermentation under controlled temperatures.  At some point during the late 20th century, certain producers started using neutral oak again, enabled by enhanced technology and heightened awareness of the requisite hygienic protocols required.  more traditional producers scorned the use of oak as counter to what Chablis stood for, while more modern winemakers embraced it as a way to enhance the grape’s true characteristics (even when used, it is in a distinctly different and more subtle manner than New-World countries including significantly lower toast levels than one traditionally finds in places like California or Israel).

Food

The best food pairings take advantage of the wine’s naturally high acidity to act as a palate cleanser and work well with delicately creamy sauces. Due to the lighter, more delicate taste profile of Chardonnay, you’ll want to stick to lighter meats and fishes as your base ingredient, including chicken, bass, halibut or cod. The high acidity and salinity work well with raw fish and sushi.  Poor spring and fall weather often wreak havoc on vintages, but the impact of recent climate changes has helped improve vintages.

There have been kosher Chablis wines from Dampt Feres previously available in the US, but they were from the producer’s lower designation, so I was excited to taste their Premier and Grand Cru wines which are, as would be expected on a different level.  Other quality producers making kosher Chablis include Domaine Les Marronniers and Pascal Bouchard, with more hopefully on the way.  Listed below are some lovely expressions of Chablis I have recently tasted which I am sure you will enjoy as well.

Shabbat Shalom,
Yossie

Dampt Freres, Chablis, Premier Cru, Côte de Lechet, 2017:  2017 was a really nice year for Chablis and it’s reflected in this delicious wine (the few lower-ranked Chablis I tasted last year from them were also nice).  The elegant nose is aristocratic with flinty minerals, tart green apple, yellow pear and subtle notes of gun smoke.  Give the wine some air and you’ll be rewarded with a whiff of peach and white flowers with more green apple and minerals, all on an elegant light to medium bodied palate backed by lovely acidity and slight salinity.  Lip-smacking and vibrant citrus add enjoyment and the minerals and warm spices all combine to present an elegant and lovely wine.  Fresh and vibrant with sophistication and layers of complexity, this is a really lovely treat.  13% AbV.  Drink now through 2024, perhaps longer.

Dampt Freres, Chablis, Premier Cru, Côte de Lechet, 2018:  The quality winemaking skill is evident in this wine, despite suffering through a pretty down vintage for the region (especially after a recent slate of above average years).  Presenting overall less vibrant with fuller body and bolder fruit notes, the wine showcases the same elegant structure and balance evident in the 2017.  Backed by good acidity and well balanced, the wine shows passion fruit, tropical notes and citrus with flinty minerals and notes of wet river rock and fresh-cut hay along with warm spices and a whiff of flowers that emerges more with time.  Less layered and complex than the 2017, the wine is very nice and provides a lovely and enjoyable experience, especially when contrasted to some of the heavier expressions of Chardonnay (that also have their place).13. AbV.  Drink now through 2023.

Dampt Freres, Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Preuses, 2018:  Given how lovely this wine is, I would love to taste the 2017 Grand Cru (although I don’t believe it was made kosher).  Rich, expressive and aromatic, the wine showcases aromas of tart apple, pear and a subtle expression of tropical fruit with the flinty minerals providing nice backdrop and floral notes adding complexity.  The medium bodied palate is rich and elegant, backed with supremely well-balanced acidity that lifts the palate and keeps things fresh and vibrant.  Lovely citrus, notes of smoke and herbacousness all provide solid supporting roles, adding nuanced complexity that tantalizes as the wine evolves in your glass.  Really great experience. 13.5% AbV.   Drink now through 2025, perhaps longer.

Domaine Les Marronniers, Chablis, 2018:  A lovely and well-made Chablis, presenting well if slightly one-dimensional.  Some rich minerals and tart green apple on the aromatic yet subtle nose with salinity and good acidity backing up the light to medium bodied palate.  With some air the wine presents a whiff of orange blossom, iodine and flint along with slightly bitter smokiness that adds nuance.  Sweet and somewhat tropical fruit on the mid palate along with good acidity yields a nice and refreshing wine with notes of toasted almonds and more citrus on the medium finish.  Fermented with native yeasts, the wine clocks in at 13.5% AbV and is mevushal as well.  Drink now and over the next 12 months.

Domaine Les Marronniers, Chablis, Premier Cru, Côte de Jouan, 2018:  Elegant with a more vibrant and complex palate than the Chablis above.  Sourced from 30-year-old vines and fermented with native yeasts, the wine showcases lovely green apple, yellow pear and white flows on a medium bodied palate with great acidity keeping this fresh.  Flint minerals are evident as a backdrop to the rich and medium bodied supple palate, with more flint and orange notes added to the mix.  14.5% AbV is evident with the bigger body and heftier structure. Along with a more pronounced oak backbone.  Well balanced, round and mouth-filling – this is an enjoyable wine.  Drink now through 2022.

2021 Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Looking at my opening statement from last year’s guide, I am reminded how truly awful things looked at that point, while also being encouraged by the good I was able to discern even then; feelings that helped uplift my spirits through the entire chag.  Also helping was something the memories of which were recently triggered as I read through some divrei torah from Rabbi Sacks zt”l and Rabbi Weinreb, both relating one of the most difficult Pesach preparations, and I don’t mean wine (while the difficulty in choosing proper wines for your seder can be tough, this newsletter solves all those problems, and I am referring to a slightly different type of preparation.

The Haggada teaches us that “In each and every generation, a person is obligated to see himself as if he personally left Egypt” (חייב אדם לראות את עצמו כאילו הוא עצמו יצא ממצרים״”). We are supposed to personally visualize ourselves as having experienced the Exodus in all of its detail.  How many of us are capable of picturing ourselves as helpless slaves and then undergoing to phases of redemption including witnessing wondrous miracles and casting aside bonds chains and marching as a free man into an unknown wilderness. Can there be more powerful emotions experienced by man? Living in our 21st-century comfort, how can we possibly be expected to “see ourselves as if we personally left Egypt”?  The commentaries provide a number of explanations including the Rambam’s beautiful directive relating to a slave’s lack of freedom to act in a moral and ethical manner and our obligation to assume the moral and ethical responsibilities to others of free men.  Given the unique times we are living through, I wanted to share a quick personal thought I had in this regard (if not of interest, feel free to skip to the meat of the newsletter at the bottom – my Pesach recommendations).

When shul was abruptly shut down last year, the elimination of communal gatherings (social and spiritual alike), together with the loss of a regular and easy access point to Hashem I don’t believe I was alone in experiencing dark clouds looming over my psyche and soul.  However, due to the unique makeup of my apartment building within a short period of time we were able to have daily minyan in a completely halachik, safe and legal manner (each person remained in their own apartment).  After being locked out of communal prayer for a while, the spiritual uplifting achieved by simply participating in regular minyan again was remarkable.  Initially limited to the afternoon (mincha) and evening (maariv) prayers for logistical reasons, in honor of Pesach we were able to experience complete prayer sessions, including joyful renditions of communal hallel.  While obviously not the same, the feeling of going from darkness to light (me’afeila l’ora) helps to imagine what it must have felt like for the slaves, as they broke free from such an imaginable depth of darkness and working their way towards the light of freedom, recollecting the feelings of those times.  As we enter another Covid-era Pesach, thinking about the down-trending numbers and mass vaccinations gaining steam, I believe we can start focusing on a hope-filled future, with light at the end of this tunnel, a feeling that may be helpful when trying to put ourselves in the shoes of our ancestors’ experience so many years ago.  Anyway, just a thought I wanted to share.

With that in mind, I find choosing wine for our sedarim a worthy endeavor to apply some effort too, especially given the teaching by our sages that wine gladdens the heart and there is no joy without wine (and meat).  And while joy may be harder to come by this year, I hope it’s easier than last year and given that Pesach is a celebration of the Jewish people coming together a nation for the first time, an idea we get behind with everything we have got.   With wine such an integral part of the Pesach holiday, physical and spiritual aspects combined, my hope is that this annual guide makes the task easier and hopefully helps in enhancing the strangely unique seder we are each about to undergo, regardless of our personal circumstances.  Whether you are spending it alone, with your spouse, sibling, nuclear family or are lucky enough to be able to safely enjoy the company of a few other people, the smaller nature of this year’s celebrations is an opportunity to slow things down, contemplate the nature of the holiday while enjoying the quiet break from the noise and commotion raging outside our windows.

Busy Times

Typically, the weeks leading up to Pesach are the US kosher wine industry’s busiest, with more kosher wine purchased during this period than the rest of the year combined (in Israel, Rosh Hashanah is nearly as busy a buying season as Pesach and wine buying is also more liberally spread out through the year).  While this past year has been far from typical, wine and Pesach were still destined to be together by Hashem and buying wine for Pesach remains one of the best parts of Pesach prep for every committed wine lover.  However, even though the more than 4,500 different kosher wines being produced annually includes almost 100 disparate varieties of “Fake Wines” like wines with Cream in their name, Manischewitz, variations of Yayin Patishim and of course the Blue Bottle Abomination, there remain far too many labels for any sane human being to wade through.

Elevated Stress Levels

Every year we talk about the elevated stress levels brought on by cooking commercial grade levels of brisket and matzah balls while attempting to eradicate every speck of dirt from the inside of your oven with a toothbrush and how wine selection shouldn’t be an added source of stress.  While each and every one of us is already dealing with unimaginable stress levels brought on by the pandemic, I feel more strongly than ever before that wine selection should be as easy, simple and enjoyable as possible.  However, as this guide is used by most readers throughout the year as a benchmark for which wines to acquire and all the potential pitfalls remain (and then some), we are going to remain focused on the usual matters the guide is mean to help alleviate.

With wine such an integral part of the Pesach experience, the massive number of choices can create a particularly stressful shopping experience as one contemplates the near-endless number of choices on the shelves or webpage of your favorite retailer.  Exacerbating the issue are several mitigating circumstances including the sheer number of mediocre-at-best available wines (along with an unacceptable amount of true drek) and the unfortunate tendency of many retailers to part you from your hard-earned shekels by selling these less than worthy wines.   Typically stemming from a lack of knowledge, occasionally more sinister reasons are at play so, like in any other transaction, caveat emptor.  Other aggravating obstacles include lack of vintage transparency and the oenophilic “bait and switch” – advertising great deals for allocated wines without having them in stock and then selling you copious amounts of sub-par wines.  Adding to the fun is the terrible fact that many stores and online purveyors continue to sell wines that are so far past their optimum drinking windows that it’s practically criminal.

Help is Here

In attempt to reduce stress levels in any way I can, I have done the work for you and curated my annual Pesach Wine Buying Guide from among the multitude of options being made available.  Hopefully the Guide will simplify your wine shopping and allow you to get back more important holiday preparations like being there for your family with love and compassion, helping the needy folks with social, emotional and financial support to allow them enjoy a Pesach holiday as it first came to be – as a nation coming together for the first time while developing a more-important-than ever before relationship with hashem (this in addition to the normal stress of preparing Pesach, including those making such preparations for the first time and those contemplating a holiday spent with the fewest number of people ever).

The Guide covers my top recommendations for wines in the following five price tiers: (1) Under $18, (2) between $18-29.99, (3) between $30-49.99, (4) Over $50 and (5) Moshiach Wines.  As most of my readers know, Moshiach Wines are wines that I would proudly serve the Moshiach, were I ever sufficiently deserving for him to grace my Seder table.

Many of the wines on this list will not come as a surprise to my regular readers given their perennial appearance over the years resulting from the consistent excellence of their producers and the talent of the applicable winemaker.  As years go by and the quality and quantity of top-notch kosher wines grows, the potential wines for this list gets longer, increasing the difficulty in providing this highly curated list (listing every good wine would defeat the entire purpose of the list).  Representing less than 3% of all commercially available kosher wines, the list should go a long way in easing the pain of sifting through all your options.  With the quality of white wines increasing year over year, there are more white wines on the list than in prior years, especially on in the lower price ranges.  If you are one of those unfortunate and self-proclaimed “I don’t drink white wine” people, please take this as an opportunity to try something new – I promise you won’t be disappointed.

The Fine Print

As a transactional lawyer with over 20 years of deal-making under my belt, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that a list of this magnitude comes with some fine print and a few important caveats.

1.  The Guide isn’t intended to be a comprehensive list of every wine I believe worthy of your consideration.  It represents a selection of the better wines available across different pricing tiers; each of which I recommend and believe worthy of your Pesach table.  As previously noted, Covid-driven logistical challenges resulted in my tasting a smaller percentage of wines this year than ever before, so more than in prior years, not being on this list isn’t a reflecting on its eligibility hereof.  As you all know, I only write about wines I like and you can therefore safely purchase any wines previously recommended, even if they aren’t on this list, including last year’s guide (as I tried not to repeat wines).  Of course, all wines remain subject to their recommended drinking window.

2. Many of last year’s wines are still available on the shelves and remain in top drinking condition so check out last year’s list for additional suggestions and/or vintages (I tried not to repeat wines from last year’s list, even if they were still available and good).

3.  Some wines may only be available either in Israel or the US and are marked as such.  While there remain a number of wines that remain available only in their country of production (e.g. Four Gates, Hajdu and Shirah in the US, Mia Luce in Israel and a number of French options in Europe), the vast majority of recommendable Israeli wines are imported to the US these days (shmita excepting) and most of the Herzog/Royal wines that were formerly “US Only” wines, are exported to Israel, making this list more useful across the broadly disparate geographic location of my 11,000 subscribers.

4.  Due to the disparate geographical disbursement of my reader base, the listed vintages may be different depending on which part of the world your shopping cart is located in (although vintages tend to also shift from local retailer to retailer and distributor to distributor, depending on how much of the prior vintage they have left in stock).  Especially for Israeli wines, different vintages are available in Israel and outside of Israel.

5.  It is always best practice to consult me before buying a recommended wine from a different vintage but in this case, given the fluctuation in quality of recent vintages and potential shipping/storage issues, I’d be even more careful than usual when utilizing this list to purchase non-listed vintages.

6.  Prices fluctuate wildly from location to location, so when determining the price tier for each wine I typically average among a number of US online and brick and mortar options to achieve what is hopefully an average price for the various wines.  However, listed wines in your local market may not always fall exactly within the listed price points (online price-checking is always a good idea, as is asking retailers to match listed prices).

7.  To ensure the practical functionality of this list, I have not included wines only available to wine club members (e.g. Covenant’s Landsman, Hajdu’s Guild, Herzog Tasting Room or Hagafen’s Prix) and have significantly reduced the number of listed wines that aren’t generally available (Mia Luce from the 2016 vintage onwards) or have sold out (e.g. the lovely Condrieu from Le Vins de Vienne).

Seder Drinking Conundrum

Despite occupying a top spot on any oenophile’s list of favorite customs, the tradition to consume four full cups of wine at the seder brings a host of potential issues, whose solutions can require a bit of advance thought and planning.

First and foremost is that four cups of is a lot of wine to consume at one sitting, especially given the fact that the first two cups are typically imbibed on an empty stomach.  Another issue stems from the tradition of using a silver goblet for kiddush (and the rest of the cups).  While the easy solution of pouring the wine into a proper wine glass immediately following the recital of kiddush works beautifully on a regular shabbat or holiday, the lengthy Haggada ensures far more contact with the silver during the Seder.  Other issues are caused by the common traditions of using only red wine and avoiding mevushal wines during the seder.

With the seder representing one of the most important meals on the Jewish calendar, people try to have the nicest (and typically the most expensive) wines possible, creating yet another potential conundrum.  Despite being among the kosher wine world’s best, the currently available high-end wines from Bordeaux, Israel and California are unlikely to be properly appreciated giving the hurried manner in which most of the Seder’s four cups are mandated to be consumed.  Many of the better wines are full-bodied, oak aged and boldly flavored, attributes not very conducive to seder drinking.  Between the empty stomach with which most people approach the first two cups, the halachik requirement to consume nearly an entire cup of wine rather rapidly and the added stress under which your seder participants are likely to be operating this year; most sedarim are unlikely to offer ideal conditions for enjoying such magnificent wines.  That said, with current circumstances causing unprecedented change to our lives, including religious customs, if your current circumstances allow for a leisurely seder enhanced by the finest wines in your cellar (including if you are spending seder physically alone this year) – go for it.  The spiritual aspects of wine sanctifying our table and experience would make using your best bottles to elevate the exalted experience the seder is meant to be as good a use of it as one could imagine.

The Perfect Solution

Otherwise, I suggest saving the more expensive wines for leisurely drinking during Shulchan Aruch and the plethora of subsequent holiday meals, while finding other worthy options for the four cups.  Being a traditionalist, my personal custom is sticking with red wines for all four cups, while using a few basic principles to choose the proper wines.  Many folks like to use rosé as a good compromise and with the genre’s popularity souring, many options are already available.  I have yet to taste all of the 60 samples or so waiting for me, but in anticipation of the guide tasted through a dozen or so to choose a few recommendable options for the guide (even with quality continuing to dip over the years, there are some worthy choices).

Despite the less than adequate conditions mandated by our traditions and extra important given the circumstances we all find ourselves in, Seder night is one of the most exalted evenings we get to spend in G-d’s company, while celebrating our freedom from oppressive slavery and the coalescing of the Jewish People into a nation with collective responsibility for one another.  As such top-quality wine is still a pre-requisite.  Unlike most years where the large family gathering mandated a wide selection giving the likely disparate range of palate preferences, spending time with your nuclear family only allows one to be slightly more particular while choosing the wine.  However, regardless of the number of participants (and even if you are on your own), you are going to want a range of wines.  Therefore, I focus on affordable medium bodied quality wines that are highly approachable and enjoyable even without any oenophilic sophistication.  Over the years, my “go-to” seder wines have included Israeli Petite Sirah from Dalton and Recanati, entry-level Spanish wines from Capçanes and ElviWines and some of the well-priced newer options from Bordeaux (e.g. Larcis Jaumat, Les Riganes and Fourcas Dupree) in addition to the welcome addition of multiple lovely Pinot Noir wines from around the world at a wide-variety of prices.  To the extent you are looking for well-priced and versatile white (or Rosé); good bets will be Rosé Dalton, Recanati or Matar; Sauvignon Blanc from Yarden, Covenant and Goose Bay, Pinot Grigio from Dalton or Yarden and Riesling from Carmel or Kishor.

Parting Advice

During this busy buying season, retailers pull out all the stops to bring in your dollars with big sales everywhere.  Between the increasing competition and online availability of most top-notch kosher wines, most wine merchants will match any published price, so always ask your favorite retailer to match the prices you have seen elsewhere and, if you aren’t happy with the price – ask for a discount.
With all the explanations behind us, I present my annual

Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Under $17.99

While a number of wines from this tier have moved up one level due to increased prices, this range includes many good, enjoyable wines.  With few exceptions, these wines aren’t complex or cellar worthy.  With oak barrels representing a significant percentage of a wine’s cost (actual cost and the time-value of aging), many of these wines have spent little to no time in oak (although oak chips can provide certain benefits without the heavy costs) contributing to their lower prices.  Along with focusing on “Safe Bet” wineries, varieties less popular than Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay tend to be cheaper given their relative lack of familiarity.  As such, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Roussanne and Gewürztraminer will usually provide better bang for your buck and are good places to look for bargains.

Most of the wines on these lists qualify as YH Best Buys (wines especially worthy of your hard-earned cash).

1. Barkan, Classic, Malbec, 2019 [mevushal]
2. Château les Riganes, Red, Bordeaux, 2019 [mevushal]
3. Château Trijet, Red, Bordeaux, 2019
4. Contessa Annalisa, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie, 2019 [US / mevushal]
5. Dalton, Estate, Pinot Gris, 2019
6. Dalton, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc, 2019 (also 2020 Rosé)
7. Duc de Pagny Beaujolais Nouveau 2020
8. ElviWines, Herenza, Rioja, 2019 (Blue and White label) [mevushal]
9. ElviWines, Herenza, White, 2018 (f/k/a InVita)
10. Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla in Israel), Brut, n.v.
11. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Sauvignon Blanc, 2019 (also 2020 Hermon Red)
12. Herzog, Baron Herzog, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018 [mevushal]
13. Koenig, Riesling, Alsace, 2018 [mevushal]
14. Netofa, Domaine Netofa, White, 2019
15. O’Dwyers Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2019 [mevushal]
16. Pacifica, Evan’s Collection, Riesling, 2018 [mevushal]
17. Recanati, Yasmin, White, 2019 [mevushal]
18. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, DOCG, 2018
19. Twin Suns, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, 2018 [mevushal / US]
20. Yaffo, White Blend, 2020

$18-29.99

As the average price of a quality bottle of kosher wine continues to surge, it’s refreshing to find a number of wineries valiantly trying to hold their ground at affordable.  While most great wines remain over $30, there are plenty of great ones here.  In general, I find Carmel, Dalton, ElviWines, the Golan Heights Winery, Recanati and the wines under Herzog’s Special Reserve label to be consistent players in price range.

1. Borgo Reale, Chianti, 2018 [mevushal]
2. Cantina del Redi, Pleos, Sangiovese, Toscana, 2019
3. Cantina Giuliano, Costa Toscana, Gioia, 2018 (also 2019 Vermentino)
4. Capcanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, Pinot Noir, 2019
5. Carmel, Single Vineyard, Riesling, Kayoumi, 2017
6. Château Lacaussade, Vieilles Vignes, Saint-Martin, 2019
7. Château Roubine, Cru Classe, Cotes de Provence, 2020 [mevushal]
8. Château Signac, Cites du Rhone, 2018
9. Covenant, Red C, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020
10. Dalton, Alma, Scarlet, 2018
11. Dalton, Levantina, 2018 (also 2019 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc)
12. De La Castinelle, Or, Rosé, Cotes de Provence, 2020
13. Domaine J. de Villebois, Pouilly-Fume 2019 [mevushal]
14. Flam, Blanc, 2019 (also 2018 Classico)
15. Flechas De Los Andes, Malbec, 2019
16. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2014
17. Goose Bay, Pinot Grigio, 2019 (also the Sauvignon Blanc) [both mevushal]
18. Grume d’Or Pinot Noir 2019 [mevushal]
19. Hagafen, Riesling (Dry), Lake County, 2018 [mevushal]
20. Herzog, Lineage, Sauvignon Blanc, 2019 [mevushal]
21. Herzog, Variations, Cabernet Sauvignon, Five, 2018 [mevushal]
22. Louis Blanc, Beaujolais, Morgon, 2019
23. Matar, Rosé, 2020
24. Netofa, Latour, Red, 2018 (also 2019 White)
25. Netofa, Tel Qasser, White 2018
26. Pescaja, Terre Alfieri, Arneis, Solei, 2019
27. Ramon Cardova, Old Vines, Reserva, Rioja, 2016
28. Recanati, Ancient Vines, Bittuni, 2019
29. Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, David’s Vineyard, 2018
30. Shiran, Triad, White, 2019
31. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Riserva, 2016
32. Tzora, Judean Hills, White, 2019
33. Vitkin, Pinot Noir, 2019
34. Vitkin, Collector’s Edition, Grenache Noir, 2019
35. Yatir, Creek, White, 2018

$30-49.99

While a lot of good options sit in this category, many of them really should be priced in the lower range but have crept up in price for no justifiable reason.  It’s harder to sell wines in this price range than the one above or below it.  It’s nearly impossible to find a YH Best Buy on this list.  As with most higher-end wines, especially those with a year or more of barrel aging, these need time to open up (often the current vintage should be regulated to a few years of aging since it simply isn’t ready for primetime).  In any event, do yourself a favor and get a decanter to ensure that you are obtaining maximum benefit from these wines in the event that you don’t or cannot cellar them before enjoying.

1. Bat Shlomo, Ice Wine, 2018
2. Château de Santenay, Les Bois de Lalier, Mercurey, 2019 [US]
3. Château Fourcas Dupree, 2018
4. Château Gazin-Rocquencourt, White, 2018
5. Château Marquisat de Binet, Cuvee Abel, Montagne St. Émilion, 2015 [US]
6. Château Royaumont, Lalande de Pomerol, 2018
7. Clos Lavaud, Lalande de Pomerol, 2016 [US]
8. Covenant, Red C, Rosé, 2020
9. Dalton, Anna, n.v.
10. Flam, Camellia, Chardonnay, 2019
11. Gito, Viognier, 2019
12. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Brut, Rosé, 2014 (also 2017 Petit Verdot)
13. Gush Etzion, Lone Oak, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2017
14. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018
15. Hajdu, Vermentino, Dry Creek, 2019 [US]
16. [Herzog,] Eagle’s Landing, Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, 2018 [US]
17. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2018 (also Lake County) [both mevushal]
18. Herzog, Special Reserve, Chardonnay, Russian River, 2018 (also 2017 Paso Syrah) [both mevushal]
19. Jean Philippe Marchand, Bourgogne, Hautes-Cotes de Nuits, 2017 [US]
20. Lahat, GSM, 2018
21. Les Roches de Yon-Figeac, Saint-Émilion, 2016
22. Matar, Blanc de Noir, Brut, n.v. (also 2017 Cumulus)
23. Recanati, Special Reserve, White, 2018
24. Shiloh, Secret Reserve, Petit Verdot, 2017 [mevushal]
25. Shirah, Bro.Deux, 2018 [US]
26. Terra di Seta, Assai, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione, DOCG, 2015
27. Twin Suns, Grand Select, 2018 [US]
28. Ya’acov Oryah, Alpha Omega, (Orange), Viognier, 2019 (also Chenin Blanc)
29. Ya’acov Oryah, Silent Hunter, 2018

Over $50

Over the decade of producing the Guide, many deserving wines were repeatedly excluded because they were priced over $50 and didn’t quite make the exalted “Moshiach Wine” club.  Whether any particular wine is “worth it” is a subjective matter with a newsletter all to itself, these are great wines that will bring great pleasure while properly honoring your Pesach experience.  Even more than the prior tier, proper aeration and cellaring will have a huge impact of extracting maximum pleasure from these wines.

1. Aura di Valerie, Amarone Della Valpolicella, DOCG, 2017
2. Carmel, Limited Edition, 2017
3. Château, Clos des Lunes, Lune d’Argent, Bordeaux Blanc, 2018
4. Château du Tertre, Margaux, 2018
5. Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac, 2018
6. Château Le Crock, Saint-Estèphe, 2018 [mevushal]
7. Château Piada, Sauternes, 2018
8. Covenant, Solomon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lot 70, 2017
9. Dalton, Matatia, 2017
10. Dampt Freres, Chablis, Premier Cru, Côte de Lechet, 2018 (also 2017 Premier and 2018 Grand Cru)
11. Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, 2018
12. Domaine Chantal Lescure, Pommard, 2017 [US]
13. Domaine Netofa, Late Bottled (LBV) Port, 2012 [Israel]
14. Domaine Rene Lacariere, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2019 [US]
15. Domaine Roses Camille, Echo de Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2015 [US]
16. ElviWines, EL26, 2018
17. Flam, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018
18. Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Pinot Noir, 2018 (also Masada 2018)
19. Hajdu, Petite Sirah, 2018 [US]
20. Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter, Bourgogne, Hautes Cotes de Nuits, 2018 (also Pommard) [US]
21. Jean Phillipe Marchand Gevrey-Chambertin, 2017 (also Volnay) [US]
22. Tassi, Aqua Bona, Rosso, Montepulciano, Toscana, 2017 [US]

Moshiach Wines

Moshiach wines are the really special wines that represent top-notch winemaking and plenty of patience on the consumer’s part to allow the wines the additional aging time in the bottle before the wine showcases all it can be (and the perfection intended by the winemaker).  Unfortunately, as our world continues to devolve into the pursuit for instant gratification, the terrible crime of consuming high-end wines shortly after they are purchased is a crying shame.  While certain top tier wines are structured for immediate consumption and long-term aging, a few years of aging nearly always does good things for these wines and is worth the extra time, effort and patience.  With the continued global expansion of my Rosh Chodesh Club concept (over 30 regular monthly meetings worldwide), more and more folks and getting to experience the immense pleasure derived from properly aged mature wines and with the recognition that a few years of storage can yield a stratospheric ROI, many more wines are finding their way to the cellar instead of the table upon purchase – which is a great thing!

Please note that some of the Moshiach wines are very limited-edition wines that may not be easily available at your local retailer.  While they may be a tad difficult to lay your hands on, I promise they are all worth the extra effort and additional expense.  Additionally, and as is the case with many of the best wines, many become Moshiach wines only after a few years of aging.  As older vintages (that have been stored properly) are somewhat difficult to come by, the list includes the current vintage for many of the wines and, for a number of the wines I have included (at least one of) the vintages that makes the wine fit for the Moshiach (buy the current vintages, store them properly for a few years and voila – homemade Moshiach wines).

1. Capçanes, Peraj Ha’Abib, 2009
2. Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 2018 [not ready]
3. Château Giscours, Margaux, 2017 (2003)
4. Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 2017 (2001)
5. Château Haut Condissas, Medoc, Prestige, 2017 (2005)
6. Château Lafon Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 2017 (2003, 2010)
7. Château Lascombes, Margaux, 2018 (2015)
8. Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2017 (2000, 2005)
9. Château Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Léognan, 2018 (2005)
10. Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2019 [not yet available] (2003)
11. Château Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes, 2018 (2014)
12. Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, 2014 (2000, 2009)
13. Domaine Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2012 (2006) [US]
14. ElviWines, Clos Mesorah, 2016 (2010)
15. Flam, Noble, 2017 (2011)
16. Four Gates, Chardonnay, 2018 (2007, 2011) [US]
17. Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 2014 (2008 [shmita])
18. Herzog, Generation IX, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, 2018 [not ready]
19. Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone Six, 2018 (2008)
20. Marciano, Marciano Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018 (2017) [US]
21. Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione, Assai, 2015 (2012)
22. Yaacov Oryah, Old Musketeer, Sweet White Wine, 2008 (8 & 12 year-old) [shmita]

Creme de la Creme (Best Wines of 2020)

A little off schedule (like so many other things this past year), this week’s newsletter represents the traditional year-end newsletter for Yossie’s Corkboard, namely the best wines of 2020 (my annual “Pesach Wine Buying Guide” and “State of the Kosher Wine World” newsletters will follow in a week or two as well).

Representing the end of one of humanity’s worst year in decades, I am hopeful that we have turned a corner, with hope on the horizon.  It has been an excruciatingly difficult year for so many people; friends, family, the Jewish people, nations and the global human community have suffered incomprehensible losses of life, liberty, health and economic disaster on near-incomprehensible scale.  Like many others, it was a hard year personally, with the loss of social interaction taking a toll on me that I didn’t foresee coming.  Coupled with real concern over my ability to provide for my family, I was unable to get the creative and literary juices flowing to pen this missive anywhere near a regular schedule.  However, I did taste (and drink) wine on a regular basis, albeit on a smaller scale, primarily due to the inability to travel.  My apologies for abandoning you all and I want to express my tremendous Hakarat Hatov for all those who reached out to inquire after my well-being and especially those who have been helpful in sending business my way – it was (and continues to be) very much appreciated.  It has also reinforced my understanding of others needs in this regard.

However, I have missed writing and interacting with you all too much to let it go and am making a valiant effort to continue what I started 16 long years ago.  As is my annual custom, I also list the most exciting and/or interesting wines I tasted throughout the year, some of which give more pleasure than some of their “near-perfect” brethren who are included in the former, more prestigious, list.

As noted, one of the Covid impacts on this newsletter, was a reduction and shift in my wine tasting experiences in a number of ways.  The primary impact was my inability to visit wineries around the world along with the lack of wine shows and mass tastings which combined to reduce the number of wines I was able to taste this year by nearly fifty percent.  One additional shift was my accepting samples for the first time in my life, as without this it would have been impossible to sample anywhere near a sufficient number of wines to be if use (I continued my habit of purchasing hundreds of wines to taste on my own, but the sheer volume of options would have been unbearable).

One additional adjustment to this year’s list was, given the logistical shift in sampling wine, I have included wines tasted through January 31, 2021 (as opposed to the traditional year-end cutoff).  Even with this adjustment, there are a slew of wines that would have been on this list had I tasted them earlier, including Herzog’s top tier 2018 wines (Chalk Hill, Clone #6 and Stag’s Leap), the 2018 Marciano Estate, the newly released Chablis options from Dampt Feres, additional 2018 Bordeaux releases (Chateaux Lascombes, Montviel, Malartic and others), ElviWine’s EL26, Flam’s Noble and others.  As noted below, not being on this list isn’t indicative of the dozens of other uber-worthy wines out there, so as always, feel free to reach out abut any other wines you have questions about.

While the total number of wines I tasted this year (2,033) is the lowest annual number of wines I have tasted in nearly a decade, it a reflection of Covid’s impact on my reach as opposed to the number of new wines launched, which continues to grow at an exponential pace.  The world of kosher wine continues to evolve, grow and improve and there are great things ahead for the industry, while growing pains have also given rise to certain problems that need to be addressed (and will be discussed in the coming newsletter).  After nearly a decade of having the list split relatively evenly between Israel, California, France and the rest of Europe, recent years have seen French wines assert their dominance pretty significantly.  While a lot has to do with the resurgence of interest in kosher French wines, it also has to do with changes to the Israeli wine industry and the rising number of offerings from Spain and Italy.  These and other developments will be discussed in depth in my coming newsletter covering the State of the Kosher Wine Industry.

The job of compiling these lists would be easier if I scored wines, as I would simply list the wines that received the highest score over the last 13 months.  However, given my well-known abhorrence for the practice of scoring wines, the task is significantly more complicated.  Rest assured, that you readers aren’t the only ones asking for me to start scoring wines; wineries and retailers request this constantly as it would help them sell even more wine than this newsletter is already responsible for.  However, as my goal is to educate and expand my reader’s horizons (as opposed to helping to sell wine), I wouldn’t expect my no-scoring policy to change anytime soon.  As such, and as would be expected from any corporate transactional attorney worth his salt, the following caveats are important to understanding before diving into the list itself:

The Fine Print

  1. In keeping with past practice, the list includes only wines I tasted for the first time during the 2020 calendar year through January 2021 (although barrel tastings from prior years that I tasted as final wines this year are included).  Only final and bottled wines eligible for this list.
  2. The list excludes older / non-current vintages of wines, even if they were tasted for the first time this year. The global success of the Rosh Chodesh Club (33 global “franchises” and counting) over the last eight (!) years is such that the list would be overrun with the magnificently cellared wines enjoyed at various RCCs over the last 13 months.
  3. Once again, I decided to avoid wines of such exceptional rarity as to render them impractical for the bulk of readers. As such, wines that qualitatively I personally tasted and loved throughout the year that were non-commercial, too far from release (e.g., Domaine Roses Camille 2015), exceptionally rare (e.g., the 10-Year Old Musketeer by Ya’acov Oryah) or only available in limited markets (e.g., the 2018 Mia Luce wines) were excluded from the list even though they would have otherwise been serious contenders for a spot.
  4. Reflecting the geographically widely disparate location of my over 11,000 readers (approximately 65% US, 15% Israel, 15% Europe and the remaining 5% spread throughout the rest of the world), some of the wines may not be readily available in one market or another (regardless, the flagship wines that tend to make these annual lists are often produced in relatively small quantities and sell out fast or are not widely exported).
  5. Despite my best intentions and efforts, five children, struggles with my day-job and most obviously the scourge of Covid-19 severely limited my travel and overall wine-tasting this year.  As a result, I wasn’t able to taste every one of the more than 4,200 kosher wines released this year and, as with most years, there were wines released this year than made sense for a “Best of” list but lost out due to lack of space (and my desire to stick to a limited number of wines); in addition to those released but which I didn’t get to taste in time (as mentioned above).  Combined with a slowly failing memory, this means that these lists aren’t 100% set in stone and there are dozens of other wines worthy of your time, attention and wallet (all of which receive mention in my various newsletters or on the various social media outlets Yossie’s Corkboard publishes (Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, with Clubhouse “wine-talk” roundtables launching soon).

Best Wines of 2020

Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 2018:  Despite missing out on the relevant Best of List, the inaugural 2015 release of this third-growth Bordeaux was very good and this second release for the 2018 vintage is even better, while being just as closed and requiring as much time before being ready for prime time (Yair was born in 2018 and this was among the worthy candidates acquired in anticipation of his wedding, b”h).  A rich and voluptuous nose showcases crushed red and black forest berries and cherries, red cassis, smoky oak, brown spices, hints of herbal, fresh-rolled cigars and pungent wild mushrooms.  The elegant and near-pretty full-bodied palate in dark and brooding, showing extraction with air and boding well for the wine’s future development.  Backed by robust yet elegant tannins, there is plenty of mostly red fruit which is joined by gun smoke, earthy minerals, savory notes of tar, roasted meat, saddle leather and loamy earth with oak overtones that need time to settle down but are well balanced by tart acidity and the elegant fruit and structure.  With time, the wine shows rich chocolate, roasted espresso and fresh-paved road as well, with a slightly bitter herbacousness in the background.  A long, lingering and chocolate, mint and some fruit lingering nearly forever.  13% AbV.  Drink starting in 2028 and then enjoy through 2043.

Château Gazin Rocquencourt, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, 2018:  While remaining second to their darker brethren, white wines have been enjoying a resurgence among kosher wine drinkers for some time already (my personal wine consumption leans ~70% white), the few white wines on this list were usually Israeli contenders like the Shoresh Blanc from Tzora or more recently, Yaacov Oryah creations.  French wines were dominating the red categories, but since the 2004 vintage, have been hard pressed to mount any real offense on the white side of things.  However, last year’s list showcased the delicious Clos de Lunes, and this year builds on the success with the incredible Blanc from Gazin Rocquencourt (sister to Chateau Malartic who are also releasing a white wine shortly).  100% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine is quite a treat (and sold out pretty quickly, especially for a more expensive white wine) – elegant, well-balanced with great acidity, luscious fruit and lip-smacking citrus notes.  Tart green apple, creamy lemon, roasted hazelnuts, slate minerals, floral nuance and smoky oak are all there, combining for a lovely and tantalizing nose.  The medium bodied palate is also elegant, initially needing some air to allow the oak to recede a bit.  Once it does, you are rewarded with layers of complexity and luscious sophistication covering the gamut from tart and creamy apples, gobs of citrus, more saline minerals, warm spices, hints of vanilla and a backbone of slightly toasty oak that supports without dominating.  Great acidity throughout and onto the round, mouth-filling and lingering finish, keeps thinks fresh and lively and bodes well for the wines continued maturing and development.  Really a delightful wine and a welcome addition to the growing portfolio of high-end, ageable and all-around terrific kosher white wines – ken yirbu!  14.5% AbV.  Drink now through 2027, maybe longer.

Château Giscours, Margaux, 2017:  After two terrific vintages the Chateau could be forgiven for resting on its laurels, but nothing would be further from the truth.  I first tasted the wine when I visited the glorious winery and was delighted to find that my initial impression of excellence was justified when tasting it again recently.  The wine opens with a dark, broodingly elegant and rich nose with loads of minerals, fresh-turned earth, garrigue, graphite, black pepper and near-sweet mostly black fruit and cassis with some flinty gun smoke adding nuance.  A lithe medium to full bodied palate has loads more rich fruit that is well balanced with robust yet plush tannins and backed up by elegant acidity.  Subtle notes of toasty oak, black pepper, earthy minerals, cured meat, fresh-cured tobacco and garrigue with hints of anise, dark chocolate lead into a long and luxurious finish loaded with more dark fruit, rich chocolate, cedar-box tobacco notes and a hint of herbal nuance which round out this elegant, focused and beautiful wine.  13% AbV.  Drink 2024 through 2036.

 

Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 2017:  More than 15 years have passed since the last kosher vintage of this first-growth Sauternes (made kosher for three consecutive years 1999-2001), however given the long-term ageability of Sauternes, we are still enjoying the fruits of those labors today (albeit as they are gracefully sloping off their peak).  Still a baby at this stage, without any of the wonderful funk that so typifies the Sauternes botrytis, if you look closely you can already see the glorious wine it will become.  Loads of candied orange, white flowers, fresh-peeled ginger root, dried summer stone fruit, heather, honeysuckle and a whiff of minerals with some air, the nose intoxicates already with its heady aromas.  The medium bodied wine is loaded with rich melon, more dried fruit, clover honey, more floral notes and plenty of honeysuckle all wrapped around a core of judicious acidity that promises to keep things together for decades.  14% AbV.  Drink now (if you must with an hour of decanting), but better to giver the wine until at least 2025 before enjoying through 2040, likely longer.

 

Chateau Haut Condissas, Medoc, Prestige, 2017:  One of those wines that seems to fly under the radar with less flash than some of its French brethren.  However, less flash doesn’t mean less class, and the Haut Condissas has been a perennial contender for this list and well-deserving of its slot this year, with decent pricing adding to the wine’s allure.  A pretty nose opens with dark crushed black forest fruits, with hints of slightly tart cherries and sweet raspberries adding intrigue along with rich forest floor, earthy minerals, savory notes of forest mushrooms, cured meats, fresh-cracked black pepper, hints of desert shrubbery and menthol.  The full-bodied palate shows extraction and is backed by lush and gripping tannins that evolve with air and showcase more rich and mostly dark fruits along with dark chocolate, some toasty oak, flinty gun smoke, warm spices along with some tobacco leaf, tar, well-worn leather and some minty notes; all backed with good acidity and great structure that bodes nicely for the wine’s future development which is also noticeable on the long and opulent finish.  A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, the wine clocks in at 14% AbV.  Drink 2022 (or with 90- minutes of decanting now) through 2032.

Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 2017:  One of the lessor known superstars of the kosher wine world, this is likely due to the fact that it has only been made kosher for a few vintages, spread apart over years, with distribution limited as well.  2010 was the last vintage it was made, one of the only top tier Bordeaux wines made kosher during that spectacular Bordeaux vintage.  Comprised of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, the wine showcases less obvious fruit on opening and presents as less approachable on release than its voluptuous older sibling, but its overwhelming elegance and sophistication easily make up for that.  Like most higher-end Bordeaux in this price range, the wine obviously needs years of cellaring or hours of decanting before it will show any of its potential, but the structure and balance are there and with some air, the wine starts to emerge and the elegant nose shrugs off its hibernation and reveals earthy and smoky notes enveloping cigar-box cedar, herbacousness, black pepper, saline minerals, savory notes of grilled meat, graphite along with black fruit that evolves over time.  The full bodied palate is backed by gripping tannins that provide a supple backbone to the fruit and smoked meat notes with some near-sweet notes of rich dark chocolate and roasted espresso beans lingering on the extensive finish.  Rich, deep and very elegant, the wine needs a lot of time, so make sure it gets what it deserves, and you won’t be disappointed.  13% AbV, drink 2024 through 2037.

Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2017:  Long the reigning king of kosher Bordeaux options, recent years have seen numerous contenders for the crown, but not this year as Leoville puts forth another glorious, elegant and sophisticated treat.  The wine opens with rich and mostly red fruit with some blackberries, cassis and a hint of blueberries coming through as the wine slowly opens up.  Adding to the intoxicating nose are toasty oak, earthy minerals, loamy dirt, graphite and fresh-paved road along with an underlay of herbacousness with notes of tobacco leaf and sweet cedar as well.  Full bodied, the wine takes its time in opening up, but you are well-rewarded with rich fruit, more minerals, asphalt and rich roasted meat with rich dark chocolate notes coming on the mid palate and joined by spicy oak and more green tinges, all backed by gripping yet elegant tannins and good acidity leading into the long finish loaded with more fruit and well balanced throughout by the oak backbone and rich chocolate on the lingering finish.  Well-made, impeccably balanced and supremely elegant – the wine is a well-worthy treat.  13% AbV.  Drink 2026 through 2035.

 

Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin, 2018:  Long a symbol of Israel’s [new] wine revolution and despite the somewhat pretentious moniker, a reigning champ among Israel’s top wines, wine continues to symbolize an Old-World winemaking style wrapped in New Work materials.  The nose is deep, dense and extracted with crushed near-sweet forest berries, red cherries, rich cassis, earthy minerals, black pepper, cigar-box cedar wood, sun-kissed Mediterranean herbs and a typical herbacousness backed by toasty oak.  The full-bodied extracted palate is loaded to bear with rich near-sweet, controlled fruit with spicy oak, more cigar notes, roasted espresso, rich baker’s chocolate and some bitter anise adding nuance before folding into the long finish.  A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot, the wine clocks in at 14.5% AbV.  At this point, the wine needs two hours of decanting before it opens up sufficiently to enjoy so better to wait till 2022 and then enjoy through 2027, maybe longer.

 

Domaine Rose Camille, Echo de Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2015: A “second wine” only by virtue of the greatness of its older sibling – the Domaine Rose Camille.  The wine typically spends a year in 2-year-old oak than another year with 50% on oak staves and the other 50% in stainless steel to allow the wine to harmonize and come into itself.  A subtle nose of brooding dark fruit and brighter red fruit including tart raspberries, cassis, and a hint of under ripe strawberries, with smoky oak, pungent earth and mineral are accompanied by lavender and floral notes that grow stronger as the wine opens in your glass. A full-bodied palate is pretty extracted while showcasing great balance between the mostly red fruit, and minerals along with a searing tannic structure that bodes well for the wines potential aging. A nice finish of more smoky oak, great acidity and intense tannin along with espresso and tobacco leaf rounds out this complex and incredible treat. Nearly impenetrably closed right now, if you insist on opening decanting for 5-6 hours prior would significantly enhance your enjoyment of the wine. Otherwise, give this one the respect it deserves and wait two years before opening in 2023 and then enjoy through 2032, maybe longer

Elvi Wines, Clos Mesorah, 2016:  This vintage of Elvi’s flagship (and near-perennial contender for this list) is beautiful, elegant, deep and complex, while presenting deeper and riper than prior vintages.  The wine opens with a lovely nose of mostly red juicy fruit with hints of black fruit added to the mix with dark chocolate, tar, earthy minerals, hint of chalk, smoky oak, tobacco leaf and some roasted herbs all coming together and revealing themselves as the wine opens up.  The medium to full bodied palate has plenty more rich fruit but is nicely tempered by good acidity and savory supple tannins and enhanced with Oriental spices, a hint of blue fruit and more earthy minerals, cigar-box notes, chocolate and leathery notes.  Some subtle smoky oak adds nuance and the bitter herbal notes make sure you notice the complexity as you get to the supple finish that lingers long.  Sexy and elegant, the wine needs some time to develop but Moises’ steady hand and Anna’s impeccable class are as evident as always.  14.5% AbV.  Drink 2023 through 2030.

 

Herzog, Limited Edition, Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone # Six, 2017:  100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from one of Herzog’s acclaimed Chalk Hill Vineyard plots, the wine was aged for approximately 21months in new French oak.  Showcasing Joe Hurliman’s technical expertise and familiarity with the vineyard, this lovely and elegant wine is well balanced and precise.  The deep and dark nose is loaded with blackberries, cassis, black current, dark cherries and hints of tart raspberries and cranberries along with rich espresso, dark chocolate, black pepper, freshly sharpened lead pencil, warm spices and herbal nuance, along with some smoky oak, anise and earthy minerals added welcome nuance and complexity as the wine slowly opens up.  The full bodied has much of the same, with more herbal nose and more red fruits creeping in, all backed by gripping yet already integrating savory tannins and well-balanced by good acidity and more oak influence.  The finish has more tart red fruit, smoke and minty chocolate, which linger long.  14.5% AbV.  As always, among the most supremely elegant wines Herzog make and a true delight.  I’d give the wine at least 18 months before opening; while best enjoyed from 2023 through 2033, maybe longer.

Jean-Philippe Marchand, Volnay, Sous Luret, 2017:  Like Riesling, Burgundy was a superstar wine genre long-neglected by the kosher wine-producing.  Unlike Riesling whose issues were partially driven by marketability issues with the grape’s primary region, Burgundy’s issue was more traditional – cost prohibitive and lack of significant customer interest.  Thankfully, these issues have been resolved and over the last few years we have been rewarded with an ever-increasing number of new Burgundy options, including (finally) some white options (after a 15-year hiatus of worthy contenders in that regard).  Like most quality Burgundies, the wine really needs some time and cellaring before it will show what it is capable of (patience my young Jedi).  Like most of the producer’s other offerings, the wine is a delight – well made, classic Burgundian Pinot Noir and delicious.  Give the wine some time, air and/or decanting and you’ll be rewarded with a reflective and sensual nose packed with sweet red cherries and other red fruits, earthy minerals, graphite and subtle notes of wild mushrooms along with crushed rush petals and slightly bitter herbs.  The medium bodied palate continues the trend towards elegance, with griping tannins providing impeccable balance to the oak backbone that remains very much sight unseen along with the lovely fruit with a hint of tartness adding complexity and plenty of savory notes including roasted meat, balsamic vinegar and a whiff of cedar combine for a supple and tension-filled experience, leading into a long, lingering and delightful finish.  Really a pretty and sexy wine, that is worthy of your attention.  Clocking in at 13% AbV, if you must, drink now with 2-3 hours of decanting but better to give the wine the time and respect it deserves until 2023 and then enjoy through 2034.

Marciano, Marciano Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2017:  Easily one of the most gorgeous wineries in the US, Marciano Estate also happens to be stocked with wonderful people making great wine!  The inaugural kosher version of the winery’s top wine (the 2018 is tremendous as well but just missed the tasting deadline for this year’s list) and unlike the standard version which is blended with 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, the kosher version is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The wine’s nose is expressively bursting with juicy black fruits including plums, cherries, blackberries and cassis, along with warm spices, slightly toasty oak, mocha, dark chocolate, toasted nuts and hints of sweet red fruits as well.  The supple and luxurious full-bodied palate starts off a little closed (reflecting the need for some cellaring) but opens to reveal and elegant and powerful harmonious balance between the rich and controlled mostly dark fruits, oak nuance, sweet red notes, rich chocolate and some earthy mineral notes, backed by supple tannins and an oak underlay that will carry the wine as it develops and matures.  Truly opulent, the wine is a real treat.  At this point the wine benefits from 90 minutes to two hours of decanting and can be enjoyed through 2035.

Terra di Seta, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione, Assai, 2015:  As would be expected from the flagship wine of any self-respecting Italian winery, the wine is closed and brooding and should be left alone for a few years.  100% Sangiovese which was aged in new French oak barrels for 24 months.  At this stage, the only way to really appreciate what lies beneath is hours of decanting.  Then you are rewarded with an expressive nose of dark plums, slightly sour cherries, roasted herbs, backed by earthy notes of truffles, brown spices, graphite, sweet cedar wood, smoke and hints of tar.  The full bodied and extracted palate is plush, complex and layered, opening up over the course of many hours to reveal layers of extracted dark fruits, sweet herbs, saddle leather, tobacco and roasted espresso beans, all wrapped around impenetrable tannins and backed by lovely acidity.  A long lingering finish showcases earthy minerals, smoke-tinged oak and more cigar-box notes.  15% AbV.  Give it the time it needs, and you will be rewarded with elegance and excellence – a beautiful wine meant for sharing with friends.  Drink 2023 through 2032 (if you decide to open now, give it at least three hours in the decanter).

Most Interesting Wines of 2020

Aura di Valerie, Amarone Della Valpolicella, DOCG, 2017:  My first experience with this style of wine, so I was mostly guided by literature in prepping my expectations.  One of Italy’s classic wine styles, Amarone is a rich, deep dry wine made from partially dried grapes, with extended skin maceration contributing to the wine’s dark color and rich extracted flavors.  A rich nose has loads of rich dark fruit, sweet black cherries, a whiff of prune and other dried fruits, jasmine and lavender along with fresh-cracked black pepper, Cuban cigars, oodles of dark chocolate, sweet spices and backed by rich oak.  The full-bodied extracted palate is different with extracted black fruit and relatively low tannin and acid, allowing the fruit to shine through but providing some cognitive dissonance from the initial aromatic and expressive nose (and dark rich color).  With time in the glass, the wine evolves and shows earthy minerals, bitter herbal notes and some smoke, all of which serve to temper the rich and ripe fruit, which still hit front and center.  A blend of the three primary grape varieties permitted in Amarone, Corvina (30%), Corvinone (35%) and Rondinella (35%), the grapes were dried for 90-100 days, before spending two years in large oak barrels.  15.5 AbV.  Drink now through 2026.

Bat Shlomo, Ice Wine, 2018:  My last visit to the winery was exciting not only due to the amazing visitor center underway (and now close to completed) that will enable the winery to serve the growing desire for high-end wine tourism, but also the continued innovation from the winery which included this delicious and well-made ice-wine styled wine.  Sourced from 100% estate-grown Semillon which were cryo-frozen, the wine has plenty of rich stone summer fruit, citrus notes, honeysuckle, white flowers and honeyed figs, backed by great acidity that keeps everything in balance.  Really a lovely and delicious treat and a welcome addition to the portfolio of quality Israeli-dessert wines that seemed to have fallen on the back-burner a bit in recent years.  Like sparkling wine, kosher consumers don’t drink enough dessert wines and we need to incentivize producers to create these delicious treats!  Drink now through 2027.

 

Bergevin Lane, Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla, 2018:  One of the many welcome new projects benefiting kosher wine lovers (a topic to be discussed in my coming State of the Kosher Wine World), this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a well-known winery in Washington State and was aged in 33% new French oak for 12 months.  Rich and delightful, the wine showcases extracted black fruit well balanced with good acidity and supple tannins.  Green notes are flecked throughout along with cassis, cracked black pepper, violet, roasted espresso beans, mocha and fresh-rolled cigars.  Well-worn saddle leather and earthy minerals are in the background but provide a subtle lift and nuanced complexity, matching the new-sweet and rich fruit and providing harmonious balance.  Really a great first effort and a delicious wine in its own right.  A reserve version is also being released so stay tunes.  14.8% AbV.  Drink now through 2026, maybe longer.

 

Château de Santenay, Les Bois de Lalier, Mercurey, 2019:  After enjoying the exquisite delights of White Burgundy back in the day, the genre mostly went on hiatus from the 2004 (premox cursed) vintage until now.  100% Chardonnay which was aged in French oak for nine months.  Loads of tart green apple, yellow pear, white peach, saline minerals, creamy citrus zest and lovely acidity keeping things fresh and providing decent contra to the oak backbone.  The medium-bodied palate is quite elegant and has much of the same lovely fruit and balancing minerals and acidity, along with some loamy earth, toasted hazelnuts, a bitter salinity that tantalizes and more creamy notes that provides a round, mouth-filling and unctuous experience that pleases tremendously.  13.5% AbV.  Drink now through 2024, perhaps longer.

 

Dalton, Pet-Nat, 2020:  One of my favorite underrated wineries, Dalton doesn’t seem to get the love is deserves as it continues to serve up well-made, well-priced and interesting wines across a broad spectrum of prices and genres.  Whether the revised ancient winemaking methodology is a passing fad or here to stay remains to be seen, but Dalton’s version of pét-nat showcases quality winemaking and innovative creativity and continues to build on its prior two releases. The wine is fun, approachable and pleasing while providing a new wine-drinking experience.  Give the wine a few minutes to blow off some cabbage notes and you’ll be rewarded with green apple, white peach, subtle herbal notes and some citrus that pleases.  Good acidity with a less-focused mousse than the 2019 version, but enjoyable and fun, nonetheless.  While the genre doesn’t do it for me and I’d peg it more as a passing fad, I am happy talented winemakers are trying their hand at these and appreciate the quality winemaking evident in guy’s work.  Drink over the next 12 months.

 

Matar, Blanc de Noir, Brut, NV:  After many years of producing one of Israel’s only worthy sparkling wines beyond the quality offerings from the Golan Heights Winery, the Pelter’s decided to produce a kosher version of their well-regarded sparkler.  Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, (the “de noir” in the name as opposed to the Yarden “de blancs” from Chardonnay) that didn’t spend any time on the skins (yielding the “blanc” color), I first tasted this wine two years ago in the barrel and was excited to finally enjoy the final product.  A delightful and expressive treat, it should be enjoyed now, as it doesn’t appear to have the staying power we have come to expect from the Yarden offerings (it is also bottled in a somewhat inconvenient bottle shape that, while unique and attractive, plays havoc with my storage abilities).  Elegant and delicate, the nose showcases bright summer fruit including tart cherries and wild strawberries along with citrus notes and a subtle nuance of yeasty bread.  The medium bodied palate showcases an elegant and tightly controlled mousse with red, near-sweet fruit, citrus pith adding nuance and complexity, some toasted nuts and stone minerals all backed by nicely balancing acidity.  A pretty, elegant and enjoyable wine.  11% AbV.  Drink now.

Padis Vineyards, Brilliance, 2018:  Named for Steve Padis’ successful jewelry business than enabled him to pursue a passion of making wine, the first kosher run was released in 2012 with help from Ernie Weir and produced at Oxnard’s kosher facility (talk about collaboration).  Historically I haven’t been a huge fan of the wine, but the 2018 vintage is easily the best yet and worthy of consideration.  100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Padis’ Oak Knoll vineyards in Napa Valley, the wine is classic Napa Valley opulent Cabernet Sauvignon, but reflecting the good vintage year for the region and a steady winemaking hand.  Rich blackberries, black cherries and cassis on the caressing nose along with some subtle forest floor, graphite, floral notes and a whiff of tar along with toasty oak.  The opulent full-bodied palate is rich and luscious backed by supple tannins that carry the wine which showcases more extracted near-sweet dark fruit, toasty oak, rich chocolate notes, sweet cedar wood and fresh cured tobacco leaf.  A bit lacking in depth and complexity, this is a well-made and delicious wine that will please most New World Cabernet Sauvignon lovers.  Drink now through 2025, maybe a bit longer.

Pescaja, Terre Alfieri, Arneis, Solei, 2019:  Another new Italian delight from the same folks bringing the Tassi below (along with additional coming Italian treats), it represents the first kosher Arneis and a welcome addition to the growing range of trail-blazing wines utilizing grape varieties for the first time in kosher wines.  When experiencing new wines for the first time, the expectation comes from wine literature and the tasting comparison is to wines with similar flavor profiles.  The wine showcase a rich and deep nose of summer stone fruit with a hint of tropical notes and heathered honeysuckle, backed by white flowers, chamomile tea, almonds and lip-smacking citrus nose.  Medium bodied with less acidity than I expected, the palate is nonetheless well-balanced with no negative impact from lower than expected acidity and the rich fruit plays nicely with the flinty minerals and expressive floral notes.  Unlike many white wines, I found the wine enjoyable at colder-than usual temperatures (think 45 degrees), but additional nuances are revealed as it slowly warms (and opens) n your glass and lingers long on the elegant finish.  13% AbV.  Drink now through 2023.

Ramon Cardova, Old Vines, Reserva, Rioja, 2016:  Historically producing entry level but nice-enough wines, the label started to take things to the next level a couple years ago with the introduction of a lovely Albariño and have further upped their game with the introduction of this Rioja Reserva.  Sourced from the older vineyards of Ramon Bilbao’s Haro vineyards and fermented in large oak barrels, the wine presents another kosher Rioja Reserva option in addition to the terrific offering from ElviWines.  Like the Italian expansion, I am happy to see new wines and producers expanding our already existing portfolio of great Spanish wines and hope the trend continues.  The nose opens with deep brooding notes of rich sweet black forest berries with a good dose of blueberries added to the mix.  Slightly toasty oak notes, roasted game meat, warm spices and balsamic vinegar add complexity to the nose which evolves as it spends time in the glass.  The deep, extracted and rich full-bodied palate is somewhat of a beast, loaded with rich crushed blackberries, plums and other dark fruits along with flinty minerals, savory notes of cured Mediterranean olives, more warm spices, earthy mushrooms, graphite, freshly-paved asphalt, cured meat and dessert shrubbery adding nuanced complexity and depth.  The finish lingers long.  Really brilliant first efforts and looking forward to subsequent vintages (2018 and likely 2020).  14.5% AbV.  At this point the wine greatly benefits from about an hour of decanting, and should cellar nicely through 2027, maybe longer.

Tassi, Aqua Bona, Rosso, Montepulciano, Toscana, 2017:  After many years of a very limited selection of high-end Italian kosher wines, the picture is changing dramatically with a new importer focusing on this neglected area of delight and this inaugural kosher release from well-known producer Tassi is a worthy member of the burgeoning portfolio (and his coming kosher Brunello is sure to excite as well).  Despite lacking the DOCG demarcation of its non-kosher sibling (missing some of the stringent technical requirements), the wine is lovely, elegant and delicious and comprised of 100% Sangiovese.  The nose presents with fresh notes of mostly dark fruit including sweet black cherries, smoky oak, anise and slightly roasted bitter herbs, earthy minerals and cured tobacco leaf.  The rich medium to full bodied palate is elegant and expressive and backed by plush tannins.  The palate packs in more rich black cherries and other mostly black forest fruits, along with earthy forest notes, more smoky oak, roasted meat and black truffles leading to a tension-driven lingering finish.  14% AbV, the wine is enjoyable now with 30-45 minutes of air and should develop nicely over the next 2-3 years and can be enjoyed through 2026.

Vignobles Mayard, Le Hurlevent, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019:  Yet another example of how the kosher wine world continues to push forward, as a new Rhône Valley wine comes to market and adding to the still-scarce world of quality Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  As with so many wines on this list, it really needs years of cellaring before it should be opened or at the very least if you must, hours of decanting to really reveal its complexity.  The wine showcases deep floral notes and black forest fruit along with some nice fresh-picked wild strawberries backed by lavender, garrigue, freshly paved asphalt, smoked meat, cigar-box cedar, roasted espresso and some bitter herbal notes that tantalize throughout.  Good acidity and robust tannins are well balanced with the ever-so-slightly toasted oak that provides nice contra to the fruit and herbs.  Earthy minerals, hints of anise and more juicy black fruit linger long.  Get some of the wine and bury it for a few years to be able to enjoy what a true CdP has to offer.  15% AbV.  Drink 2024 through 2030.

 

Yatir, Creek, White, 2018:  After years of serving up delightful white wines that languished due to the consumer’s stubborn unwillingness to pay for quality white wines, Yatir is having its “told you so” moment as consumers realize the awesomeness of quality white wines and are starting to pony up.  Part of the winery’s revamped portfolio, the new wine is a blend of Viognier (69%) and Chenin Blanc (31%).  With a lovely nose of summer stone fruit, quince, heathered hay, bright white flowers and nuanced flinty minerals added complexity.  The medium bodied palate is subtle with good acidity backing up the slightly tropical fruit, herbal nuance and slate minerals.  Plenty of bright citrus adds to the deliciousness of the subtle and restrained wine, while the oak provides a good background and lends some toasty notes.  Drink now or over the next 12 months.

Marciano Estate

Visit November 14, 2017
Located in the heart of Napa Valley (in St. Helena), the foundation of the winery dates back to 1862 when the vineyards were planted. Throughout the property’s history, the quality of the vineyards was always recognized, with grapes being sold to many prestigious wineries. Acquired in 2006 by Maurice Marciano (co-founder and owner of Guess jeans) who poured substantial resources into making the winery the best possible estate winery it could be. After not being satisfied with his initial 2006 vintage results, Maurice decided to do a total overhaul starting with the hiring of David Abreu, one of Napa’s top viticulturists (who advises many of Napa’s top wineries including Harlan and Screaming Eagle) as a consultant. Following his instructions to the T, the winery uprooted all 20 acres of vineyards and replanted only ten acres with varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and a tiny amount of Merlot) and rootstocks deemed most appropriate for the terroir. Reducing the grape growing acreage by 50% significantly lowered production and the ability to recoup the investment but enhanced quality dramatically as David determined ten acres was the most the land could accommodate while still producing the highest quality grapes.
Adding to the star-studded team was Andy Erikson (Screaming Eagle winemaker and consultant to many other high-end Napa wineries) who in turn brought on Morgan Maurèze as full-time winemaker. Morgan worked with Andy for nine years. Born in France and raised in the US, Morgan was educated at UC Davis and University of Bordeaux with winemaking stints in both France and California at wineries like Petrus, Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Château Haut Brion and Dominus Estate. Just in case that wasn’t enough star power for you, the team also utilizes the consulting advice of Michel Rolland.
Spending top dollar didn’t stop with the team and the winery acquired the most advanced and hi-tech winemaking equipment on the market. A top architect was hired to design one of the most gorgeous structures I’ve seen in an American winery which incorporated the winery’s ancient style while giving it an updated modern twist. The circular barrel room is breathtaking and the tasting room overlooks the barrel room, vineyards and an outdoor fireplace that enhances your entire experience. Maurice also planted olive trees from which the winery makes its own branded olive oil.
Despite all of the time, money and effort Maurice has sunk into the project, the winery doesn’t function like a commercial winery. Generally speaking, the winery isn’t open for visitors, much of the production is used by the family and the entire estate does double-duty as Maurice’s vacation home with lush grounds, tennis courts, a swimming pool and guest villas available for his family and friends. even the astoundingly beautiful tasting room where we sampled the wines is primarily used to host functions and special events (the entry way is stocked with some of the world’s greatest wines, all sourced from his private collection.
A proud Jew, Maurice decided early on to make kosher wine so that he could share it with family and friends. once he had proof of quality concept with the 2012 vintage (his first “commercial” vintage after making wine in 2010 and 2011 that wasn’t released as Maurice didn’t feel the quality was up to his standards – it was labeled Madrono after the original estate name and to avoid using Marciano on wine not yet up to par), he first made a kosher wine for the 2013 vintage. When starting kosher production, Maurice’s philosophy of excellence continued and he acquired new equipment to enable total kosher production independent form the rest of the winery’s equipment (many other wineries making kosher runs, share equipment which requires kashering the equipment and often makes the kosher run a step sister as it waits its turn for the regular wine to finish, sometimes losing the optimum window for production).
Marciano Estate has four wines in their current portfolio. Massiglia (a limited production Sauvignon Blanc), M Cabernet Sauvignon, the flagship Marciano Estate and their one kosher wine – Terra Gratia. Still relatively new, the winery is still settling into its labeling and there have been some changes over the years. There has been kosher and non-kosher versions of the Terra Gratia in addition to a red Massiglia which seems to have been replaced by the “M Cabernet Sauvignon”. All the red wines are primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, usually (but not always) blended with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc (the M has a much larger percentage of Cabernet Franc than the Estate). Starting with the 2016 vintage, the winery expected to bottle a kosher version of the winery’s flagship Marciano Estate as well (sourced from a different parcel than the non-kosher). I tasted the wine from the barrel last year but no final determination had been made at that time.
Initially representing 5% if the winery’s total production of approximately 12,000 annual bottles, that number has grown to nearly 30% for the 2017 vintage. Royal Wines is the current distributor, which enabled Marciano to achieve wider distribution but the 2013 was self-distributed and flew under the radar for a while (Maurice is also the co-owner of Wally’s (a large West Coast chain of liquor stores) which enabled him to move the wine on his own).
Reflecting its desire for privacy, the winery’s address is unlisted and nothing on the exterior fence hints at the treasures lying within. After meeting Morgan a year earlier at KFWE LA, I reached out to arrange a visit and was assisted by the kosher winemaker who met me at the winery with Morgan where we went on a quick tour of the winery before heading to the barrel room. There we tasted a barrel of 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon likely destined for the Estate wine along with a few other barrels of Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2016 and 2017 vintages and one blended barrel of 2016 co-fermented Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Cabernet Franc (15%).
After finishing in the barrel room (which also hosts the winery’s archive (see pictures)), we heading to the magnificent tasting room for a vertical of the three kosher Terra Gratia wines. 2013, 2014 and an advance tasting of the bottled but not yet released (at the time) 2015. Despite it being only the three of us tasting three wines, the winery’s professionalism was obvious with the printed personalized menu of wines along with materials providing relevant information about each of the wines (in addition to having Morgan walk me through each of them).
As one would hope with a newish winery, I found each subsequent vintage to improve on its prior while starting with a really lovely 2013 (blended with 10% Cabernet Franc) that had an elegant structure with plenty of rich controlled red fruit, herbal nuance, dark chocolate and was well balanced with subtle oak, good acidity and nicely integrating savory tannins. The elegance was upped for the 2014 version which was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and had more black fruit and less new oak than the 2013, with the lower oak treatment noticeable with purer fruit, more minerals and cleaner lines. The 2015 was rich, expressive and voluptuous with lovely spices and subtle smokey notes – more complex and approachable than either of its two predecessors – it was my favorite of the three wines I tasted – all of which I enjoyed.
A belated thank you to Marciano Estate Winery,Morgan Maureze and DL for hosting me and I am very much looking forward to the kosher Marciano Estate and hopefully one day, a kosher version of the Sauvignon Blanc as well!

 

One Grape to Rule them all (Riesling)

#363 – October 26, 2018

Over the last 30 years I have been into wine (the last 12 of which I have been penning this newsletter), the world of kosher wine has undergone seismic changes with many trends coming and going, the most prominent of which has been the explosive growth in those drinking and enjoying kosher wines.  Responsive to this growth has been the continuously expanding array of available quality kosher wines from around the globe, which can be tracked through my personal prism of the shifting Holy Grail.  While the ultimate Holy Grails of a kosher First Growth red Bordeaux and Chateau d’Yquem remain elusive (while being closer than ever before), many others have been achieved over the last decade or so, each making way for the next as the milestone has reached.  Former targets have included top-quality versions of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Covenant, Napa Valley Reserve and Mayacamas – check), first-rate Bordeaux and Sauternes (e.g. Chateaux Léoville Poyferré, Lascombes, Gruaud-Larose, La Tour Blanche, and of course Guiraud – check) and Burgundy (e.g. Château du Clos de Vougeot, Domaine d’Ardhuy Gevrey-Chambertin and others – check), with the most recent unicorn recently succumbing – true German Riesling, the greatest white wine grape of them all and the subject of this week’s newsletter.  While Koenig, Alsace’s kosher producer has been making Riesling for decades and another Alsatian producer – Willm had a lovely 2008 make its way to the US, it is only now that the quality and consistency has reached acceptable levels, and the first time German Riesling has been made kosher (as part of the three German winery partnership called Gefen Hashalom).

Know Your Past (or else)

Easily one of the world’s most underappreciated grapes, for the last century Riesling has also been one of the most polarizing.  However Riesling goes back much further, with one of its first documented mentions being in the mid-1500s, when Riesling was included in the wine inventory of Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen.  DNA testing has identified it as a cross between wild vines and Gouais Blanc, one of Western Europe’s oldest grape varieties, and its birthplace is thought to be Germany, somewhere along the ancient Rhine.  Especially surprising given the grape’s acknowledged greatness, its etymology is shrouded in mystery, with no clear understanding of the name’s source.  One theory is sourced from the old German word Rizan (to split) but no rationale is given.

Long loved by Europe’s upper classes, during the late 18th and early 19th century, Riesling’s popularity really took off, as it was revere for its long-term aging ability and other wonderful qualities discussed below.  Its soaring popularity only made the fall from grace during the second half of the 20th century which was exacerbated during this period (the 1950s and 1960s) when boatloads of severely mediocre white wines debased the might Riesling name by using it to market their insipid creations (while imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, this is one instance where no publicity would have been better). Riesling’s cache leads its name to be bastardized for other, less popular, versions in the hope some of the glamour will help sell (with Italian Welschriesling giving the proud Germans the most grief).  Other names Riesling is actually known as include White Riesling, Rhine Riesling and perhaps most famous – Johannisberg Riesling (names for the famed 200 acre Schloss Johannisberg vineyard, the region’s most famous vineyard, whose acclaim dates back to the 15th century).

Adding insult to injury were the subsequent years, when Robert Parker led the wine world on a merry chase after, heft, oak-aging and ripe flavors, all things Riesling shies away from; making it even less than popular among the fervently score-chasing wine enthusiasts.  Further distancing folks from the remarkable Riesling was the tendency of many German (mostly mass) producers to turn out overly sweet Riesling wines that lacked sufficient acidity and extraction to maintain the breathtaking elegance and crisp refreshingness for which the varietal should be known.  However, as the wine world slowly shifted back to subtle, elegance and food-friendliness as valued wine characteristics, Riesling started to regain its position of honor (as levels of RS decreased), especially among the more sophisticated wine lovers, with many young up-and-coming helping lead the charge as they incorporated Riesling in to the wine lists at their top-ranked eateries (and continue to do so).

The Great White Hope

With natural high acidity, relatively low alcohol and abundant fruity and mineral notes in perfect balance, Riesling produces some of the world’s greatest white wines, many of which have an astounding ability to age for decades (a quality discovered as the wine rapidly curried favor with Germany’s noble and aristocratic classes who stockpiled it and found it lasting far longer than expected) regardless of their level of residual sugar or AbV.  However, it is the grape’s terroir-reflective capabilities that are its greatest asset, contributing to its far-ranging global production and startlingly wide range of styles and dryness levels (one of the kosher Riesling producers – St. Urbans-Hof, produces nearly a dozen Rieslings annually, all in distinct styles).  Similar to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Riesling is somewhat of a chameleon, taking on many of the characteristics of the soil and other terroir attributes of its given home.  Where is diverges from its peer varietals is Riesling’s amazing ability to retain its defining characteristics regardless of its origin or the winemaking style utilized.  Two additional areas in which Riesling stands along from its fellow chameleons is with respect to oak-aging, as Riesling almost never sees any oak (other than in rare occasions where it is gently aged in larger neutral barrels to add a bit of heft) and blending.  With a racy personality, high acidity and such a lovely array of aromas, you will almost never find Riesling blended with any other grape varietals.  Further distancing itself from Chardonnay, Riesling rarely undergoes malolactic fermentation which helps retain its trademark crisp acidity.

With a tendency towards early ripening, historically the grape hasn’t fared well in warmer climates, where, before it can develop sufficient acidity and the full range of tantalizing flavors, it can reach full phenolic ripeness (and beyond), becoming overripe and flabby.  While recent years of climate change have allowed many more producers from lesser sites to achieve full maturity (and to abandon the previously common chaptalization required to reduce the tartness in many (lower-classified) Rieslings), Riesling from Mosel remains in a class of its own with a light, crisp and refreshing style that belies its abundance of fruit, layers of complexity and utterly elegant structure.  Interestingly, compared to some other summer-intended, quick-ripening varieties growing in Germany’s Mosel region (home to nearly a third of Germany’s Riesling), Riesling has always been considered a late-bloomer who can only reach sufficient ripeness when planted in the highest quality vineyards (which in Germany means, those garnering the most sunlight).

The Many Faces of Riesling

Over the years, much of the Riesling produced tended sweeter, with certain levels of residual sugar viewed as necessary to balance the high acidity; leading to the inaccurate perception that Riesling was a sweet wine.  While the high acidity and low alcohol make it great for dessert wines (and it has always been produced across a wide band of residual sugar levels (which remain a huge factor in the wine’s classification system – see below), Riesling’s characteristics make it one of the few grapes that can produce quality wine across the entire spectrum of sweetness, and has always been produced in dry versions with recent years seeing a huge upswing in the percentage of Rieslings fermented until they are bone dry (including the lovely version from Hagafen and the Kishor referenced below).  The shift to dry has been so extreme that the majority of German Riesling produced these days is classified as dry (Trocken) or slightly off-dry (feinherb), leaving many traditionalists to lament the diminishing sweeter categories (especially Kabinett (sweet) and Spätlese (late-harvest) whose perception of sweetness was beautifully tempered by high-acidity and harmonious balance( see below for more on German wine classification).  However, producers in the prime-growing Mosel appellations of Saar and Ruwer have held the line and continue to produce the fruity Rieslings of yesteryear with sufficient levels of residual sugar to please the neo-cons while yielding elegant and racy wines with gobs of balancing acidity (coincidentally or not, the Saar appellation is the source of the current crop of German Rieslings listed below).

Riesling’s wide-array of flavors, which can include apples and pears, peaches, apricots and other tropical fruits, grapefruit and citrus zest, along with jasmine, floral and honeyed notes and plenty of slate minerals depending on its source, are typified by a sharpness to them which, especially when accompanied by the wine’s bracing acidity, can seem overly astringent and off-putting at first, especially to novice drinkers or those less experienced with Riesling’s unique profile.  Combined with Riesling’s naturally high-acidity, the wine’s nose and palate can seem exceptionally sharp.  However, it is Riesling’s most defining aroma which as the largest impact – petrol.  Caused by the compound TDN (colloquially known as 1, 1, 6, -trimethyl-1, 2-dihydronapthalene), the petrol and kerosene notes tend to increase over time as the wine ages (interestingly, cork absorbs TDN very well, so Riesling’s bottled under screwcaps tend to have more pronounced notes of petrol than their cork-stopped peers).  Often not present on a wine’s release, the petrol notes appear rather quickly – often within a year or so (with can coincide with their arrival on the kosher market).

While many folks prefer their Riesling’s without the whiff of kerosene, most of the factors which enhance the aroma are the same as those which contribute to a higher quality and longer-lasting wine (including high sun exposure, lower yields, high acidity and water-stressed vines).  Regardless of this fact, Wikipedia notes that the negative view of petrol notes taken by younger drinkers have led many German (primarily mass) producers to significantly reduce such notes, even at the costs of aging ability (another characteristic losing favor among the younger instant gratification generation of drinkers) and the German Wine Institute has omitted petrol as a possible aroma on the German-version of the wine wheel (intended to specifically focus on German wines).

The Primacy of Balance

Maintaining such great balance between high-acidity levels and varying degrees of residual sugar is the primary factor in Riesling topping the food-friendly charts, enhanced by the lack of oak aging and lover alcohol levels with its elegantly voluptuous nose and array of flavors merely providing the cherry on top.  A level of residual sugar in some Rieslings further enhances its ability to compliment many tough-to-pair foods, chief among them the spicy notes that dominate many Asian cuisines.

As noted above, one of Riesling’s greatest attributes is the ability to age for decades.  Many of the higher-quality Rieslings are so austere and acidic on release that they can turn off less-sophisticated drinkers (similar to Bordeaux but for their presumption of prestige which rescues them from having their tight tannins and barnyard funk turning people away).  Riesling’s high acidity and relatively low-alcohol make it a prime candidate for dessert wines and they represent the most expensive versions of Riesling produced.  Adding abundant residual to a perfect-storm of aging-ability characteristics can juice Riesling’s long-term viability to shocking levels (Michael Broadbent has a multitude of Riesling tasting notes dating back centuries; although given his reliance on recently-deceased Hardy Rodenstock for many of these wines, their viability can legitimately be called into question).  [Despite Riesling’s relatively (to its cousin Sauternes across the border) late discovery of Noble Rot’s benefits (in the late 18th century when permission from the vineyard owner Abbey arrived late, after the grapes had already begun to rot and ended up yielding excellent wine), the grape’s elevated tartaric acid levels make it a far more dependable counter to RS than one finds in Sauternes’ counterpart – Semillon.

Despite the inherent difficulties in producing warm-weather Riesling, certain countries have managed to overcome this difficulty, including Southern Australia.  Even Israel has recently managed to produce a small number of quality Riesling wines (although very different in style than the Nik Wies and Von Hövel versions hailing from Germany), chief among them Carmel’s Single Vineyard from Kayoumi and the aforementioned dry version from Kishor.

Buying by Label

In addition to petroleum notes and historical references, Riesling’s marketing bid for popularity beyond the relatively narrow band of oenophilic geeks is further hampered by the maddingly complex world of German wine labels.  Like other Old World countries, German labels place great importance on terroir, granting a place of honor on the label to the wines origin, however, unlike French wines for instance, the varietal name also appears on the label.  An in-depth discussion of German wine classification and labels is far beyond the scope of our already extensive newsletter, but I will briefly outline some general and basic concepts (and, if you are so inclined, you can read more about the topic here and here).

German wine is divided into table wine and quality wine, with quality wine further divided into two types – Qualitätswein (quality wine from a specific region) and Prädikatswein (superior quality wine with specific attributes, e.g. fruity, level of sweetness). Prädikatswein typically classifies the wines accordance to five sweetness levels (actual based on the weight of the wine must, an indicator of ripeness – the precursor to sweetness levels): Kabinett (literally quality wine intended for the winemakers cabinet, light, fruity and usually semi-sweet), Spätlese (late harvest, usually semi-sweet, heavier and fruitier than Kabinett), Auslese (very ripe, usually semi-sweet to sweet and often botrytized), Beerenauslese (select berry harvest, overripe grapes – usually botrytized) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) (dry berry selection, using shriveled grapes, usually botrytized) (TBA wines are among the most highly-coveted (and expensive) of them all).

Additional important designations are trocken (dry), halbtrocken (half-dry), feinherb (off-dry), lieblich (semi-sweet) and süß (sweet).  The latter two rarely make the label and all five are used to help the consumer determine how the wine will actually taste.  Despite the major shift towards dryer versions of Riesling, without a Trocken designation on the label, you are not going to know whether the wine is dry, off dry or sweeter, although as a rule, Alsatian wines tend to be dryer than their German counterparts.

The Kosher Conundrum

While this newsletter spent some time celebration the breakthrough in achieving success with real Riesling, the varietal’s penetration of the kosher wine market is far from assured.  In addition to all the difficulties we have discussed, kosher wine consumers suffer from a malaise that prevents them from trying new varietals with which they have little familiarity.  Lastly, and looming large over all others is the widely held aversion many Jews continue to have with respect to German products, a position strongly shared by my family (this made procuring everyday items somewhat challenging growing up in Israel during the 80s when reparations where at full throttle and literally everything was sourced from Germany – from wooden pencils to public buses.  While I have slightly loosened the reins on this over the years, it is exclusively limited to wine and food related items (e.g. knives and wine glasses).  For those not adhering to this practice, I strongly recommend trying the new Rieslings – you are in for a treat.

Before moving on to the specific tasting notes, I wanted to thank all of you who joined Yossie’s Corkboard’s new Facebook Page! Last week’s posts covered my recent visits (and tastings of the new releases) to Nevo Winery, Gito Winery, Domaine Netofa, Alexander Winery, Carmel Winery and Tulip Winery.  I also posted about interesting recent wine-related articles and current events like next week’s Long Island Wine Expo (to which coupon code “yossiexpo2018” gets you $10 off tickets).  I hope to see you all there as it promises to be a worthy event.  Please make sure to Like and Follow the page in order to stay up to date on all the amazing things happening in our wonderful world of kosher wine.

Germany

St. Urbans-Hof, Nik Weis, Gefen Hashalom, Kabinett, Riesling, Saar, Ockfener, 2016:  2016 is the third vintage of the German Nik Weis winery’s Riesling as part of the “Gefen Hashalom” collaborative project between a number of Mosel vineyards.  Due to various logistical issues, this year’s version hails from the superior Ockfener Bockstein vineyard resulting in a more complex and longer aging wine (in addition to the increased price tag).  Sourced from Mosel’s Saar appellation, this elegant and light-to-medium bodied wine is off dry with a near-ethereal feel to it with great acidity backing up rich fruit and layers of complex aromas and flavors that tantalize.  Currently the wine needs some aerating in order to showcase its potential but allow it the time and you will be rewarded with rich notes of white stone fruit, sweet yellow plums, rich sweet orange citrus notes and warm spices on a refined and elegant nose.  The palate is less viscous than the 2015 slightly sweeter vintage but is balanced by terrific crisp acidity and a depth of character that intrigues along with hints of limestone and flinty minerals.  While enjoyable now, the wine will only improve over the coming years and it would be a crying shame to miss out on its expected wondrous development so be sure to stash some bottles out of range to ensure longevity.  11% AbV.  Drink now through 2026, likely longer [Only in Europe / the US].

St. Urbans-Hof, Nik Weis, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Saar, Wiltinger, 2015:  After a dry 2014, the 2015 version comes in slightly off dry but with a great uptick in quality, reflecting the far superior (i.e. colder in Mosel) vintage.  Apple, yellow plum, white peaches and slate minerals are enhanced with a pleasing and slightly bitter herbal overlay, floral notes and luscious orange citrus.  The medium bodied palate has more apples and citrus but adds some subtle tropical notes to the mix.  Perfect balance between the crisp acidity and sweet notes make it a great pairing with a wide array of dishes, including traditionally tough-to-pair Asian cuisine.  9.5% AbV. Drink now (but make sure it gets plenty of air) through 2025 [Only in Europe / the US].

St. Urbans-Hof, Nik Weis, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Trocken, Saar, 2014:  Rated Trocken on the dryness scale, the wine opens with voluptuous nose of apricots, peaches, quince, heather is accompanied by the “traditional” notes of petrol, with ripe tangerine, white flowers, warm spices, savory gun smoke and slightly savory notes rounding out the nose.  A medium bodied and oily palate is rich and deep with slate minerals and a hint of chalky limestone, more tropical fruits and austere citrus notes rounding things out and giving the wine a lovely edginess that does a good job of balancing out the near-sweet fruit (alongside the well-balanced acidity that does its part as well). At 11.5% AbV, this is a wine that needs to be an integral part of your drinking portfolio. Definitely enjoy now, but try and put a bottle or two away and see how it ages through 2022, maybe longer (the 2015 was a much better vintage) [Only in Europe / the US].

Von Hövel, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Kabinett, Saar, Hütte Oberemmeler, 2015:  Showcasing green plums, grapefruit, sweet tropical fruit and honeysuckle along with layered minerals and plenty of the varietal’s defining petrol notes, the wine is blessed with abundant lip-smacking acidity that frames the medium bodied and somewhat oily palate with notes of eucalyptus and mint add a pleasing nuance to the waxy fruit and warm spices (more about the von Hövel estate here).  11% AbV.  Drink 2020 through 2033 [Only in Europe].

Von Hövel, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Kabinett, Saar, Hütte Oberemmeler, 2014:  Second only to its Scharzhofberg-sourced sister below (and then only by a hair), this Kabinett Riesling is such an enjoyable wine that I’d recommend hopping a plane to France if that’s the only way you can get your hands on some (although the 2015 above is from a better vintage and a slightly better wine).  Wrapped around the petrol notes for which the varietal is famous, are rich notes of white peaches, quince, sweet apple, honeyed citrus and tart lemon alongside slate mineral notes and an overlay of sweet tropical fruit awesomely balanced out by bracing acidity and a delightful salinity that adds complexity to the wine as it slowly opens I your glass to reveal more layers of complexity.  Make sure to give it time to open – I enjoyed my first bottle so much, it was gone before I realized and had to force myself to go much more slowly with the second one.  Really impeccably balanced and so elegant I am so looking forward to seeing how my remaining bottles evolve over the coming decade.  Drink now through 2028, maybe longer [Only in Europe].

Von Hövel, Gefen Hashalom, Riesling, Kabinett, Saar, Scharzhofberger, 2014:  The wine opens with a voluptuous nose loaded with sweet notes of peach, guava, mango, pineapple and green apple along with a heavy dose of spice and the varietal’s characteristic notes of petrol and flinty minerals.  The medium bodied palate reflects the fruity Kabinett designation and is incredibly complex and opened up wonderfully in my glass over the four hours we had together.  The viscosity is nicely balanced out by bracing acidity, which also serves to keep the dense sweet fruit and heavy spices in check.  Allow the wine to open and warm in your glass and you’ll be rewarded with additional layers of candied citrus, cranberry, heather, honeysuckle, herbal notes, and more sweet tropical fruit.  However it is the balance and sheer elegance of this wine as it opened that really had me excited and I look forward to enjoying the bottles I hand-carried from France over the next decade, as it continues to evolve.  Sourced from one of Germany’s most highly-rated vineyards, the wine is still developing so, while enjoyable with about an hour of decanting, I’d wait another 12 months before cracking open and then enjoy through 2029, maybe longer [Only in Europe].

Alsace

Koenig, Riesling, Alsace, 2016:  After years of drought (remembering the lovely 2008 version from Willm), quality Alsatian Riesling has returned Together with an expanding portfolio of wines, the last few years have seen this Alsatian kosher wine producer improve the overall quality of their wines with this wine being one of their better efforts to date (and quite a bargain as well).  Lovely green apple dominates the nose with sharp floral notes, honeysuckle and flinty minerals, all continuing onto the medium-bodied palate where loads of bright citrus are added to the mix along with notes or petrol, and sweet tropical fruits including apricot, pineapple and guava.  At 12% AbV, the wine is very well made and was highly enjoyable.  Drink now through 2019 [Mevushal].

California

Shirah, Riesling, 2017:  2017 saw the Weiss Brothers add a number of new whites varietals to their portfolio, which like their previous experimentation with Grüner Veltliner and Furmint, are very welcome indeed.  While far more mainstream than those two exotic varietals, Shirah’s 2017 additions of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are no less delicious.  Like most other things Shirah, the wine is an extreme variation of the varietal, starting with a voluptuous nose loaded to bear with expressive tropical fruit notes of passion fruit, guava and apricot along with Mayer Lemon, grapefruit and salinity-driven flinty minerals, while avoiding the characteristic notes of kerosene that will show with time.  The medium bodied palate viscous plate has a lovely elegance to it, with gobs and bracing acidity keeping the rich fruit and floral notes in line, all in great balance.  Drink now through 2020, maybe longer [Only in the US].

Hagafen, White Riesling, Dry, Rancho Wieruszowski, 2014:  After years of producing a few semi to sweet Rieslings (i.e. 2% RS Lake County and 4% RS Wieruszowski), Hagafen added a dry option to the mix for the 2012 vintage, which he has thankfully given a permanent slot.  Like Carmel’s below, the 2014 is the best vintage to date of this wine.  As with most of Hagafen’s white wines, the dual-added bonuses of being mevushal and a YH Best Buy make it required drinking for any wine lover.  The wine is loaded with ripe tropical fruits including melon, guava and passion fruit while also showcasing rich honeysuckle and some summer stone fruit, all tempered by great acidity and saline minerals that give the wine a welcome edge and help make it a great match to a wide array of dishes.  Crisp and refreshing, I would drink this wine every day (and sometimes do) but, like all good things, the wine is coming to an end (but thankfully the 2016 and 2017 are available.  Drink Now [Mevushal / Only in the US].

Hagafen, Riesling, Dry, Rancho Wieruszowski, Napa Valley, 2016:  The wine opens with a lovely nose loaded with rich tropical fruits, peach and honeysuckle, accompanied by floral notes, subtle petrol, plenty of bright citrus and some gun smoke, much of which is present on the medium bodied, citrus-laden palate where the crisp lip-smacking acidity is nicely balanced by the near-sweet fruit, sweet hay and slate mineral notes.  Drink now through 2019 [Mevushal / Only in the US].

Pacifica, Evan’s Collection, Riesling, Washington, 2017:  Washington State basically adopted Riesling as its primary specialty varietal ten to 15 years ago and its relative expertise with the grape is evident in this lovely inaugural release from Pacifica.  Notes of tart green apple, Anjou pears and plenty of rich tropical fruits are harmoniously balanced with slate mineral notes, lovely bright citrus and honeysuckle heather with hints of lavender and petrol adding a nuanced complexity that pleases alongside the ever-so-slightly bitter orange pith.  Drink now through 2020 [Mevushal / Only in the US].

Goblet, Riesling, Seneca Lake, 2017:  Goblet is the label produced by Yanky Drew, the kosher winemaker at City Winery who has expanded his offerings over the years to include a wide array of varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, with Riesling the most recent addition to the mix.  Primarily sourced from California’s Mendocino County, Yanky produces wines from around the globe, sourcing grapes from Argentina, South Africa and Chile in addition to other areas of California, including the well-known Alexander Valley (I recently visited Yanky’s Brooklyn-based winery where we tasted through his portfolio and will be penning an in-depth article shortly).  The grapes for his first Riesling (which will recur for the 2018 vintage) were sourced from Seneca Lake, located in New York State’s well-regarded (especially for Riesling) Finger Lakes region known for more delicate interpretations of the grape.  The regionally-typical lighter (to medium) body has lovely notes of sharp tropical fruits, blooming white flowers, creamy lemon and grapefruit pith alongside the characteristic slate minerals and just a subtle note of petrol; varietaly-correct while remaining subtle enough to avoid offending his more mainstream clientele.  Sufficient acidity on the palate brightens the fruit and the mineral notes provide sufficient sophistication to intrigue the more discerning aficionados.  A great first effort.  Drink now (and make sure to let the wine warm up a little in the glass, otherwise you won’t get the lovely fruit on the nose) [Only in the US].

Israel

Carmel, Single Vineyard, Riesling, Kayoumi, 2014:  While the 2016 is the current version, the 2014 is what is currently on the shelves in the US and what Yiftach and I tasted on my recent trip to Carmel (the 2016 still needs some time to open up).  It also happens to be the wine’s best vintage to date (and the closest one to the varietal’s Germanic origins).  The nose needs some time in the glass to open up and reveal the lovely summer fruits and floral notes, which join the slate minerals, cut-grass, hint of gooseberry, orange zest and a nice whiff of the varietals’ characteristic petrol.  The medium bodied and elegantly structured palate maintains most of the notes, adding some dried tropical fruits and green apple to the mix while bright and crisply refreshing acidity keeps everything fresh on the palate.  Complex and layered, with some lovely heft, the wine culminates in a lingering finish that pleases.  Drink now through 2020.

Kishor Vineyards, Misgav Riesling, 2017:  The first wine sourced from Kishor’s new Riesling vineyard, Kishor has been making “Mosel-styled” Riesling wines for a while.  I recently profiled Kishor’s white blend and an in-depth article on the winery is coming shortly.  Well-made, with a lovely nose of grapefruit, peach, apricot and pineapple backup up by flinty-minerals, and honeyed notes of white flowers alongside some petrol bitterness.  The slightly viscous and oily medium-bodied palate has plenty of bracing acidity to back up the heftier palate with a lovely mineral-laden salinity providing complexity to the abundant and controlled fruit and floral notes.  At 10% AbV, this is a thinking man’s wine that is well worth seeking out.  Drink now through 2020 [Only in Israel].

The Real (Sweet) Deal

Happy Purim to all!

Over the 15 years of writing this newsletter, my primary objective (beyond getting folks to drink more wine) has been to encourage people to step outside their comfort zone and try new wines and expand their oenophilic horizons to better appreciate the majestic world of wine, for which the kosher consumer’s options are constantly growing.  Far beyond its generic description of fermented grape juice, wine is associated with celebration and is used to sanctify our most sacred days, times and customs.  However, it is also a beverage, there to give pleasure and this people should drink what they like, regardless of what anyone else – professional or not, may say.  If you like the wine – that means it’s a good wine (for you).

Despite ongoing efforts to eliminate any form of snobbery from the kosher wine world, I recently realized that I had failed a large chunk of wine lovers.  With Purim’s connection to “Yom K’Purim,” I am asking forgiveness from the legions of wine lovers out there who have never been able to read up on their favorite wines – a benefit limited to readers of this newsletter, focused more on the dry and more complex wines we tend to discuss more rigorously.  However, as one of teshuva’s primary steps, that ends today and today we will discuss those delectable sweet treats, whose enormous audience is evidenced by the tremendous sales volume these wines see.

Two famous religious figures of the 16th century were prominently engaged in viticulture – the great Jewish Tzadik Rashi whose father was a winemaker (and with whom he produced wine) and the monk known as Dom Perignon who, according to (erroneous) legend, discovered the methodology for producing and created the first sparkling wine.  Both these famous ancient vintners lived and worked in the Champagne region of France (although Dr. Hayim Soloveitchik contends that the proximate Troyesian grapes were unfit for wine production and questions the Mesorah of Rashi’s winemaking profession).  As befits their incredible accomplishments, both have monumental oenophilic institutions named after them.  Dom Perignon’s name graces the flagship wine of one of the world’s largest Champagne producers – Moët et Chandon and Rashi’s name is used to promote an eponymous portfolio of (mostly Italian) kosher wines – each of breathtaking complexity, finesse and elegance.  Another famous religious figure whose name is now being used to properly honor his impeccable taste in wine is the Rambam.  In addition to being a tremendous Gadol HaDor and Tzadik whose halachik and philosophical contributions were unprecedented and remain unparalleled, the Rambam was a Renaissance Man who predated the Renaissance, with wide-ranging talents including astronomy and medicine (he was an attending to the Egyptian Royal Court).  The Rambam’s personal taste in wine is clearly evidenced by his criteria for sacramental wine which had to be red, non-mevushal, undiluted by water, non-sweetened by sugar and unaffected by unpleasant tastes including those from mold, TCA, VH, oxidation, overripe grapes or overwhelmingly oaked wines.  However, the numerous producers using the Rambam’s name are obviously far better versed in what makes a wine great, with virtually every wine bearing his name being mevushal, overly sweet and often of dubious origin.

While many so-called wine professionals preach the virtues of dry and tannic wines, wine producers have long realized that the key to the wine industry’s success is, much like any other, giving the customer what they want.  While trying to force conviction (in the form of dry wines) down the consumer’s throat may provide some perverse form of elitist satisfaction, a real wine professional knows that there is always more to learn and these sweet wines have more to offer than some of the world’s most expensive wines.  While boring dry table wines utilize common grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, whose origins are in decidedly foreign countries like France, the wines most often used to sanctify a religious occasion are often produced from far superior and vigorously growing grapes like the Made in America Concord grape or Italy’s Great White Hope – Moscato.  One of the wine world’s greatest injustices was leaving these magnificent grapes off the list of Noble Wines.  Why should a one-trick pony (Vitis Vinifera) like cabernet Sauvignon be celebrated by wine lovers everywhere while multi-talented folk (Vitis labrusca) like the Concord (who can be utilized for wine, eating and jelly-making), are regulated to second best, if that?

Easily one of America’s greatest creations, the grape is named for the Massachusetts town where it was conceived and, in a great showing of comradery and partnership between two traditionally antagonistic (in sports) regions, is widely grown in the New York Finger Lake region.  With a primary use of jelly making, their suitability to kosher wine is obvious, where preferences for dark, jammy, rich and sweet flavors prevail over nearly any other criteria.  Showing great resistance to the oft-maligned flash-pasteurization practice undergone by so many of the wines reviewed below, it has become the poster girl of the genre.

Another prestigious example are the wines produced from the regal Moscato Bianco grape, with the Bartenura Moscato D’Asti being the flag bearer whose charms are spread by the millions across the globe.  Blessed with a sweet shallowness, effervescent nature and rich bubbles, the wine is so loved that it has earned the moniker – Blue Bottled Abomination from certain so-called more serious wine aficionados.  Produced mainly in the north-western province of Italy – Asti (but also in the near-by regions of Alessandria and Cuneo), the wine is typically sweet, low-alcohol wine and mevushal; revered by all for its lightness, great food-paring and delectable sweetness.  The Bartenura Moscato D’Asti (a venerable producer Bartenura, who have a long history steeped in excellence), cloaked in its easily recognizable regal blue bottle, is clearly what the Rambam was referring to when insisting on quality wine for any religious occasion (a competing wine even utilizes the Rambam’s name on the label to assure one and all of the wines everlasting quality).

Yet another proud member of this family of wine is the semi-sweet wine that affords the luxury of complex sophistication with sufficient drinkability.  The grandmother of these wines is Emerald Riesling that for years dominated the palate of the Israeli wine consumers before snobbery and elitism took over (in the form of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other more mundane grapes).  Growing up in Israel, my palate remembers with great fondness many of these Emerald Riesling wines including fantastic examples from Carmel and Binyamina.  Today another member of this family is rearing its noble head – the semi-sweet red wine.  Gary Vaynerchuk thinks that this type of wine has a huge market potential and, in one of his shows, posited that the taste profile of the semi-sweet Cabernet Sauvignon – Jeunesse, from Baron Herzog could become of America’s leading sellers if it didn’t suffer from the kosher stigma.

The last member of this family is probably the most famous and widely revered by wine-lovers everywhere – the White Zinfandel.  While most readers of this newsletter are undoubtedly familiar with the brash and tannic older brother – “regular” (or Red) Zinfandel, sugary White Zinfandel, is the most widely sold wine in America and for good reason.  Low in alcohol and loaded with delightful flavors of skittles, cotton candy, bubble gum, this is an exceptionally easy-drinking wine, preferred by any self-respecting oenophile.  It has the panache of quality and is loaded with enough complexity to keep even the most snobbish wine drinker interested and engaged.  I have reviewed one of these wines below as well and highly recommend grabbing a bottle (or case) and seeing for yourself.
As usual, I have reviewed some of my favorite options below, all worth seeking out both for immediate drinking and cellaring in order to follow their development over the next couple years.  The unifying traits of high sugar, mevushal and a lack of vintage specificity combine to ensure that the wine can cellar comfortably for longer than most other kosher wines – sometimes for or decades.  As an added bonus all of the following wines are YH Best Buys!

Bartenura, Moscato, Vintage Irrelevant:  Words don’t suffice to describe the delectableness of this popular wine, well deserving of its flagship standing among the genre.  Year after year, the quality of this wine is maintained by only using the best and freshest grapes, with cold fermentation resulting in a light and delightfully fresh fruity taste.  Great balance between the sugars and candy flavors, tinted with some citrus and floral notes.  With perfect sweetness, this wine is great as an aperitif or with dessert.  Loads of grapey fruit, peach and stewed pears, together with the low price, all combine for a delicious and refreshing wine that keeps the kosher wine consumer coming back for more and more.  Should be served chilled and is also great combined with some Canada Dry club soda, crushed (or cubed) ice and a little piece of lime squeezed in for a great shpritzer.  6% AbV.  Mevushal.  Drink now until death do you apart.

Carmel, King David, Concord, Red, All Vintages Matter:  The wine I grew up with and likely most responsible for turning me to the dark side of dry wines.  Adding Israeli ingenuity to American muscle, the grape was transported to Israel where the great Carmel Winery worked its magic and improved on what was previously considered perfection.  Royal purple in color with sweet notes of grape jelly and refined sugar, the wine’s lingering finish is a great substitute for dessert.  According to the producers, the wine is to be served chilled and is a perfect match with full flavored beef, veal, or chicken dishes, as well as pasta and cheese (but obviously not at the same time).  12.5 AbV.  Mevushal.  A great candidate for your fallout shelter wine, the wine can be enjoyed now and will cellar comfortably through 2134, likely longer.

Contessa Annalisa, Carino, Italy, 2015:  Part of a portfolio of superior Italian wines, the Carino is a secret blend of undisclosed premium grapes.  The Carino is defined by its rich and voluptuous bouquet of ripe fruit and complimentary flavors of vanilla, strawberry and brown sugar.  Other notes include plums, cherries and chocolate-covered blueberries.  The medium bodied palate goes down smooth – the most important internationally recognized trait of any decent wine.  11% AbV.  Mevushal.  Drink Always.

HaCormim, Kondition, Judean Hills, n.v.:  A unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Argaman, Petit Verdot, Caldoc and Red Muscat which doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world, the wine utilizes ancient traditional production methods and blends date honey and fresh Judean Hill herbs to create the perfect wine before it was barrel-aged for 20 months (or “at least 12”, per the description). The name Kondition was famous in antiquity in the kingdom of Judah and Israel and is named for the “Hamra Tava” (good wine) of the times.  The wine has a deep color with rich aroma and a pleasant sweetness making it perfect for Kiddush where it can be matched with your favorite herring or kishke. 13.6% AbV.  Mevushal.  Drink now through the coming of Moshiach.

Herzog, Baron Herzog, Jeunesse, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pick Your Own Vintage:  As mentioned above, Gary V loved this wine and I must add myself to its long list of raving fans which also include these twins from France who honored it with an incredible balancing act routine.  A wine that does great justice to the most noble of all varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon.  Highly recommended as I doubt you have ever tasted such a special example of this grape ever before.  I hesitate quote but the author of this hit the nail on its head when saying “among the enchanting secrets that often escape aficionados of Cabernet Sauvignon are the youthful nuances of character that are displayed during the wine’s infancy”.  A rich and royal purple color is the first indicator that you are about to experience something special which is only reinforced by the fresh raspberries, blackberries and cherries leading into a slightly sweet and lingering finish.  Gobs of vanilla and strawberries abound, reminding you of a delicious strawberry and cream dessert.  A fresh young character envelops this wine, giving it sophistication and complexity and the genesis of its name – French for youthful.  13.5% AbV.  Mevushal.  Drink now.

Joseph Zakon, Petite Sirah, California, Any Vintage Will Do:  Taking advantage of a varietal with a proud history of improvement in the hands of Americans and Israelis, Joseph Zakon has taken Petite Sirah to dizzying new heights with this lusciously sweet wine.  Bright notes of blooming white flowers are complimented by fruity notes, coffee, chocolate and oak.  Smooth and sublime, the wine makes for easy sipping and can be enjoyed well chilled or at room temperature.  13% AbV.  Mevushal.  Drink early in the morning or late at night for best effect.

Kesser, Niagara, Blanc, Vintage Neutral:  Another member of the illustrious and multi-faceted Vitis labrusca family, the Niagara grape isn’t a good traveler, making it a perfect candidate for the budding oenophilic locavore trend (also known as Estate Wines).  9% AbV. Mevushal. A lusciously sweet and rich flavored wine, excellent as an aperitif, with lightly flavored foods and especially for Kiddush.

Rashi, Joyvin, Lambrusco, Red, dell’Emilia IGT, Emilia-Romagna, A Blend of the Best Vintages:  In Roman times, the Lambrusco was highly valued for its productivity and high yields with Cato the Elder stating that produce of two thirds of an acre could make enough wine to fill 300 amphoras (that’s a lot).  While there are DOC frizzante wines, the best grapes are reserved for wines like this – super high quality and refreshingly sweet. Fruity and floral aromas of roses and red berries complement intense flavors of ripe wild strawberries and raspberries bursting with juicy sweetness.  Pleasantly balanced with a touch of acidity, this is the perfect wine for adding a little pizzazz to your glass, no special occasion required.  7% AbV.  Mevushal.

Rambam, Moscato, Rubino, Rosé, Italy, 2017:  With a bright pink color, ridiculously and cloyingly sweet notes of skittles, cotton candy and artificial sweetener, this was clearly what the Rambam had in mind for quality table mind and is likely beaming with pride as he serves it to the guests at the Moshiach’s seuda.  Mevushal.

Weinstock, White Zinfandel, California, 2017:  Another hugely popular wine and I cannot help but agree after my extensive tasting of this wine over the years.  Respectfully representative of this honorable grape with ton of great wine aromas like cotton candy (as if it was made from these special grapes), fruit taffy and ripe strawberries on first attack are closely followed by light citrus hints, vanilla and some tart raspberries.  A light and pleasing sweetness complements the fruit and candy, notwithstanding its (relatively for the genre) high alcohol content.  A great Shabbat gift that any self-respecting wine-lover would enjoy and eagerly open to complement any meal especially where the “wine’s crisp texture, bright color, and distinctively fresh taste pair wonderfully with fish, poultry entrees, or as an aperitif”. Serve chilled.  10% AbV.  Mevushal.  Drink for breakfast.

Bordeaux & Champagne Trip

Big red wines that require many years of aging may seem seasonally incongruous, but after three newsletters covering summer basics like white wine, rosé and grilled food wine pairing I thought it might be a good idea to follow Bruce Willis’ creed of “always being prepared.”  So in order to ensure we are all properly prepared for the chagim and accompanying colder weather just around the corner, this week’s newsletter focuses on appropriate wines for the coming season – namely French wines.  In this week’s newsletter (and to honor France’s recent Mondial win), we focus on Bordeaux – the heart of French wine.

Know Thy History

After a decade spent hiding in the shadows, the popularity of French wine among the kosher consumer is once again on the rise.  While partially attributable to the wine’s growing penetration of the mainstream kosher market, much of the genre’s current success stems from a reversal of the blows French wine took over a decade ago.  Starting with the 1997 vintage, the kosher wine market benefited from a string of successful kosher vintages with each subsequent year adding increasingly higher-end options to the expanding portfolio.  By the time the 2005 vintage was dubbed “vintage of the century”, the kosher wine market was frothy as can be and the holy grail of kosher First Growths seemed just around the – and then it all came crashing down.

When it all went Wrong

A general hostility towards France as a result of its opposition to the Iraq War rapidly coalesced around French products, with a focus on those most-closely associated with France – perfume, cheese and of course, wine.  Given the war’s perceived importance to Israel’s security, the kosher market took its boycott of French wine to extreme levels, a measure that greatly benefited Israeli wine which enjoyed a huge resurgence during this time.

While certain producers bailed on their commitments creating a terrible chilul hashem and resulting in a widespread reluctance by the various French wineries to make additional kosher runs (an issue that only now (and very slowly) seems to be abating), most producers stuck to their commitments.  With production at peak levels and long-term contracts in place, the global financial crisis was simply the (huge) final nail in the coffin.  The tristate area represents kosher wine’s largest market, with Wall Street fueling the bulk of its higher-end and segment of kosher wine buyers hit the hardest by the drop in financial wherewithal.  Even the magnificent wines of the 2005 vintage couldn’t overcome the culmination of punishing trends and wines piled up in warehouses and grew dusty on retailer shelves across the country.  The situation was also the cause behind the kosher wine market missing Bordeaux’s magnificent 2009 and 2010 vintages with only a few exceptions (e.g. 2009 Smith Haut Lafite and 2010 Haut Condissas) and fed the recalcitrance of French producers to make additional kosher runs for many years.

Le Revers de la Fortune

As global markets recovered and hatred of all things French subsided over the last few years we have seen a major resurgence of kosher French wine.  Starting with the mediocre 2013 vintage, importers have been increasing their French wine portfolios with each subsequent vintage, benefiting from vintages that seem to get better every year a market with seemingly endless capacity for annual price increases approaching 25%.

Seeing is Believing

With all these changes on the horizon I felt it was time to see things with my own eyes so earlier this year I was fortunate to have been afforded the rare opportunity to visit some of the château currently producing kosher wines (including a very special day spent at Champagne Drappier).  While the logistics of kosher wine production doesn’t typically allow for regular visitation at these wineries, the largest producer/importer of kosher French wine – Royal Wine graciously accommodated my request and arranged for a tour through some of their portfolio of châteaux (as per my custom, I paid for my entire trip).  I was lucky to be accompanied by Menachem Israelievitch, (Royal’s European kosher winemaker who works with the various châteaux on the kosher wine production) who graciously drove me around and ensured a successful tasting.  A big thank you is due to the various châteaux for their time and generous hospitality, to Royal Wine for providing me with the opportunity and to Menachem for his generous allocation of time while chauffeuring me around and answering all my questions, the result of which are included in this week’s newsletter.

The Heart of French Wine

While I will discuss specific details from the five wineries we visited (Château Léoville-Poyferré, Château Clark, Château Tertre, Château Malartic and Champagne Drappier), the first part of the newsletter is going to discuss French wine in general, with a specific focus on Bordeaux as representing some of the best the country has to offer.  We are also going to discuss a number of issues specific to the production of kosher wine in France, but before we do that, a few words on Bordeaux and its prestigious position at the top of the wine world is in order

Word Gets Around

Truth be told, the age-old real estate adage suffices to really explain what makes Bordeaux so unique – location, location and location (geopolitical and geographical).  Likely introduced to the region by the conquering Romans in middle of the first century, wine production has continued unabated since that time.  Bordeaux’s position as a major port city led it to become synonymous with global trade and introduced major prosperity to the city and its merchants.  Easy access to ships traveling towards the world’s aristocracy and nobility.  Following in their footsteps, the wealthy classes of Old Europe (primarily in Great Britain starting in 12th century onward and the Netherlands starting in the 17th century) started collecting and aging the wines, thus cementing Bordeaux’s status as the wines of the upper class.  However, the primary reason it has endured as the world’s primeur wine-growing region is terroir (the ultimate multi-meaning French word that incorporates soil, elevation and climate as they are relate to growing grapes intended for wine).  Bordeaux’s terroir is as perfect as can be, with the surrounding region appearing to have been created solely for the purpose of growing the best wine-producing grapes the world has ever seen.

Earth, Air, Fire and Water

So what exactly is Bordeaux wine (besides obviously being wine produced in the Bordeaux region of France)?  Unlike wines produced in the United States, Israel and other “New World” wine producing countries, France and other Old World countries label their wines according to the region in which they are produced and not the varietal of grape used (e.g. Tempranillo grown in the Rioja region of Spain will be labeled as “Rioja” while American Tempranillo will be labeled as “Tempranillo”).  Very few Bordeaux wines are pure varietal wines, but rather a blend blends of the so-called Noble Grapes.  Historically only six varietals were deemed Noble – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, but over time additional varietals were deemed worthy (e.g. Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Semillon).  While Bordeaux produces many top-tier white blends and dessert wines (including the be-end-all Château d’Yquem), it is primarily known for its carefully blended red wines.

Rules and Regulations

With wine so-closely tied to France’s identity, over the years French authorities have instituted a plethora of laws intended to protect the industry and maintain the quality of wine necessary for Bordeaux’s continued dominance.  Chief among these laws are those pertaining to Appellation d’origine controlee (“AOC”) – protected designation of origin); which dictate how wines can be labeled, marketed and sold (other French agriculture products like cheese and butter are also subject to these same rules).  The country’s wine producing regions are divided into many regions and sub-regions and each one carries its own set of rules of what can and cannot go into the wine in order to carry the specific AOC designation.  Additionally, in order to be deemed a Bordeaux-blend, the wine needs to include Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot but can also legally include Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère.

Telling Right from Left

The large Bordeaux region is colloquially divided into two regions – the Left Bank and the Right Bank, while legally divided into 54 different appellations (named after the city, town or village around which the vineyards are typically situated).  The Right and Left Bank designation is based on which side of the Gironde River the vineyards are located, while the area located between the Gironde and Dordogne Rivers is designated “between the two seas”.  Generally speaking, Right Bank wines’ primary varietal is Merlot while Left Bank blends have a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Left Bank is sub-divided into two regions – Graves (upstream from the City of Bordeaux) and Médoc (downstream from the City of Bordeaux which is where the vast majority of the best wines are produced excluded Sauternes which is in Graves) and contains a much higher percentage of the more prestigious châteaux.  Some well-known Left Bank appellations include Saint-Julian (Château Léoville Poyferré), Pessac-Leognan (Châteaux Smith-Haut-Lafite) Saint-Estèphe (Château Lafon-Rochet), Haut-Médoc (Barons Edmond et Benjamin de Rothschild), Margaux (Château Giscours), and of course Sauternes (Château La Tour Blanche).  Well-known Right Bank appellations include Pomerol (Domaine Roses Camille) and Saint-Émilion (Château de Valandraud).

Class Reigns Supreme

While most of the world has moved towards a merit-based ranking (in all aspects), Bordeaux (and many other Old World wine-producing countries) continues to determine the prestige (and resulting economics) of its châteaux by stubbornly adhering to a classification system that takes other factors into account as well.  The primary system is the Official Classification of 1855 which was created for the 1855 Paris exposition at the behest of Napoleon who wanted a ranking for the best wines of Bordeaux to be showcased at the exposition for the entire world to see.  Wine brokers and merchants from around the world were asked to rank the wines, which they did according to reputation and price – then considered factors directly correlating to quality.  The wines were ranked from first to fifth growths, with all of the wines coming from the Left Bank and only one red wine coming from Graves (the rest hailed from the Médoc).  Even though they were deemed far inferior to red wines at that time, white wines received their own, separate qualification, with the highest ranking called “Superior First Growth” (Premier Cru Superior) and allocated only to one wine – Château d’Yquem.  While we await a kosher d’Yquem, we get to enjoy four different First Growth (one run down the ladder) – Sauternes, all of which I have reviewed and recommended – Château La Tour Blanche (2014), Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey (2014), Château de Rayne-Vigneau (2014) and Château Guiraud (1999-2001, 2016).

No Winds of Change

This classification reigns supreme even today and has been changed only twice in its 160 year history.  Château Cantemerle was added as a fifth growth in 1856 and, after decades of extensive lobbying by the powerful Philippe de Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild was elevated from a second growth to a first growth in 1973.  While no kosher first growth wines have been made, a number of second growth (and lower) wines exist including Château Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux), Château Léoville-Poyferré (St.-Julien), Château Gruaud-Larose (St.-Julien) and Château Lascombes (Margaux).

Since 1855 most of the classed châteaux have undergone changes that lead to their division (as the properties divided up to be passed on to the next generation) and/or expansion (as they are bought and sold like any other highly-priced asset).  As a result, a classed property from 1855 may be split into three different estates today, each carrying the prestigious Cru Classé designation.  One of the (many) peculiarities of Bordeaux is that any château can use any parcel within its boundaries, regardless of quality (so a first growth château can buy a bordering plot of lessor quality and label the resulting wine under its prestigious title (legally permitted but practically unlikely given the risk of diminishing the quality).  All the wines included in the 1855 Classification carry the title of Cru Classé (Classed Growths) with the first growths referred to as “Premiers Crus”.

Many in the industry have long railed against the 1855 Classification as outdated and not accurately reflecting quality (one example would be the fifth growth Pontet-Canet whose stature has skyrocketed recently after a few years of perfect and near-perfect scores from Robert Parker).  Over the years many attempts have been made to institutionalize a new method of classification but not have stuck.  As globalization spread and Bordeaux’s fame spread to every corner of the earth, additional rankings were created during the middle of the 20th century for other regions including Graves and Saint- Émilion, but none carry the weight of the 1855 Classification.  Other, lower-ranked Médoc châteaux carry the title of Cru Bourgeois (a designation banned in 2007 and reinstated in 2010), including Château Labégorce Zédé for which there is a kosher run.

Built for the Long Haul
Among Bordeaux’s many claims to fame is the wine’s ability to age for decades, while evolving throughout the years, with evolution being more desirable than surviving (i.e. wines that stay the same but last a long time are less interesting than those that change and mature over time).  We have previously discussed aging and there are a number of factors that help Bordeaux wines achieve such longevity.  Bordeaux’s focus on the highly-tannic Cabernet Sauvignon is a big factor, as is the requisite oak-aging for Bordeaux blends.  Tannins are a fundamental component to long-term aging and they are imparted to the wine both from the grape skins and the oak barrels, with French oak having a much higher percentage of tannins than American oak.  The high acidity prevalent in the cooler region is another contributing factor, as is the age of the vineyards.  As vines age their yield drops, focusing the flavors on a smaller number of grapes per vine.  As a result, older vines yield grapes of higher intensity and greater complexity.

Familiarity Shouldn’t Breed Contempt

Another benefit of older vines is that the grower has achieved a higher level of familiarity with the plot and knows exactly what needs to be done to coax the absolute best product out of the land.  The Bordelaise wine growers have been planting the same varietals in the same plots of land for centuries and have fine-tuned to an exact degree exactly what works where and why.  While nearly all of the French vineyards were destroyed during the mid-19th century phylloxera infestation (and were reconstituted by grafting European vines onto American phylloxera-resistant rootstock), the knowledge and expertise remained and greatly benefits the industry to this day.  As any winemaker worth his salt will tell you – “great wine starts (or is made) in the vineyard”, so knowing what works best for each plot of land has immense value in coaxing the best wine out of the ground.  Compare that to the few decades (at best) of experience Israeli and California wine growers have and you’ll realize there is still plenty of room for improvement on the already terrific progress we have made.  With experimentation in their very distant past, French wineries are content to churn out the same few wines every year as representative of the absolute best their land has to offer where Israeli wineries are still in the exploration phase of learning the best grapes for the various plots of land (while also dealing with constant consumer clamoring for something new).

However, even the French are susceptible to change and, as global warming continues to heat things up, Bordeaux’s style is impacted by the hotter climate and is producing slightly riper wines that are approachable far earlier than in the past (the impact on their long-term aging ability remains to be seen).

The Kosher Conundrum

While we are blessed with many top notch kosher Bordeaux wines, there are no kosher wineries in Bordeaux.  Rather, the various châteaux produce kosher runs of certain wines within their portfolio, nearly always at the behest of a kosher importer.  While many of these kosher runs are excellent and can qualitatively match their non-kosher brethren, they will never be exactly the same wine (despite bearing the nearly identical label).  .  The reason for this is due to the actual mechanics in how kosher wines are made at non-kosher wineries and usually results in a different blend than the non-kosher version.  With the château’s name on the bottle its reputation is tied to how the resulting wine turns out, so obviously the château does its best to ensure that the kosher version adheres as best possible to winery’s style and closely resembles the wine in question (even though the production method is different).

Getting Down to Brass Tacks

In order to understand the difference, a brief primer on how these wines are made can be helpful.  Most Châteaux grow three to five different varieties of grapes for their blends.  Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot will always be present along with some or all of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.  Each of these varieties ripens at a different time and different plots ripen at different paces, resulting in a multitude of harvest times, spread across a few weeks.  Not only are the different varietals picked at different times, often different areas (or parcels) within any given vineyard or plot are harvested at different times, as they ripen at their own pace (such differentiation can go all the way to a single row of vines).  Once harvested, each batch of grapes is fermented and aged separately, only meeting each other in the spring, when the initial blending occurs in advance of the uber-important en premier (the method in which nearly all Bordeaux wine is bought and sold).  While the winemaker will taste and evaluate the wine frequently between those two times, the blending process is a more comprehensive event that typically occurs over a few days and is when winemakers make the macro-level decisions as to the likely blend).  The winemaker has immense flexibility as to when each lot is picked, fermented and blended, allowing him to choose the absolute best representation of the Château’s production in any given year.

The Devil is in the Details

First, contracts for the kosher runs are done over a year in advance of actual harvest and specific plots are allocated by the château for this purpose so, even in the infrequent occasions were a proportionate ratio all of the varieties going into the blend are allocated for the kosher run, the kosher run will be a snapshot of the specific plots, parcels or vines while the regular version will be a blend across all of the rest of the grapes (yielding a different but not necessarily better or worse wine).  Additionally, the kosher requirement that only Orthodox Jews handle the wine post-picking adds additional complications and further constrains the winemaker’s ability in making those determinations for the kosher run, especially the ability to pick each varietal in at exactly the right time.  .  Like most non-Israel wine-producing countries, the availability of qualified Orthodox folk is relatively sparse and most of them will work at more than one winery (which limits the amount of time they can allocate to any specific winery, where all the other workers are full-time employees).  Being Sabbath-observant also limits the times in which the grapes can be picked and harvest-season’s chag-concentrated period between Rosh Hashana and Simchat Torah further complicates matters and can often result in less than optimum picking times for the kosher-ordained plots.

Other complications stem from a limited number of fermentation containers for the kosher run, as each needs to be cleaned, koshered and specially prepared for the kosher run (many of the châteaux have containers specially tailored for each plot, an advantage the kosher runs simply do not have).  In addition to losing the ability to specifically tailor each parcel to its perfect production, the winemaker often needs to co-ferment certain varietals which can inhibit the development of each varietals individual characteristics.  Co-fermentation can be a positive thing if all the co-fermenting grapes have ripened to (more or less) the same degree but as discussed below, the need to cluster harvesting together in colder climates like Bordeaux can result in certain varieties being picked too early.

Turning a Corner

However things are changing and with a growing appreciation and appetite for top-quality wines, more resources are being put towards matching the kosher runs to their non-kosher siblings.  According to Menachem, the 2015 Château Léoville-Poyferré is the closest Bordeaux blend ever to the regular version, a feat accomplished by the unprecedented contracting for a pro-rata percentage of each and every parcel used by the winery in their Grand Vin (which provided Menachem and Léoville’s winemaker with the same raw materials for the kosher run as used in the non-kosher one (while I can’t vouch for the similarity, it’s certainly one of the vintage’s best wines and highly recommended).  While Royal’s European winemaker Menachem Israelivitch is heavily involved in each aspect of production, the winemaker at each château still makes the blending and aging decisions (together with Menachem) and the château owner obviously needs to be satisfied as to the quality and style before he agrees to put his label on the wine.

My only point here is that kosher wines are different wines than their non-kosher counter-parts, despite periodic attempts to obfuscate this fact by using the non-kosher wine’s scores and reviews to promote the kosher run.  Even though different nearly always means inferior (due to the reasons listed above), the good wines are still very good and well-worth your effort and hard-earned shekels (a differentiation relevant mostly when comparing the higher pricing of the kosher version; the next topic of our discussion).

My Wine is too Darn High[ly Priced]

Given its stature, it shouldn’t be surprising that the best Bordeaux wines command astronomical prices (some first growths are approaching $1,000 a bottle).  However, as the largest wine-producing region of France, there are plenty of more affordable options among the thousands of wines produced.  As the kosher French wine market continues to grow, we are seeing many more options than ever before and these run the entire gamut of prices as well (although with no kosher first growths, $300 is the current ceiling for newly released wines).  That said, I often hear complaints about the disparate pricing between the kosher and non-kosher versions, where the kosher version will often be priced between 60-200% higher than its non-kosher peer (a pricing discrepancy that doesn’t exist in Israel, where kosher and non-kosher wines are equally expensive).

As alluded to above, much of the price disparity relates to the extra costs of kosher wine production.  As discussed, there is substantial additional costs in sourcing qualified Orthodox personnel for the work as they are only there for the specific purpose of creating the kosher run, they are added labor on top of the winery’s existing crew (as opposed to Israel and California where they are full time employees who occupy “regular” positions at the winery, eliminating any such redundancies).

Higher margins are also in effect to compensate the producers for the significantly elevated risk levels involved in undertaking kosher runs but they are also implemented because they can be.  Regardless of how hard we all romanticize wine, it is a business like any other and the laws of supply and demand are in effect just like any other business.  The rapid expansion of the kosher wine market, increasing levels of disposable income and a limited supply of available wine options (which in turn are typically produced in relatively low quantities) create the perfect breeding ground for a high margin product – perceived luxury in extremely limited quantities.  As the market expands it will become more competitive and folks will have more options where to spend their money; but for now, if we want to enjoy those amazing high-end Bordeaux wines, we need to pay dearly for them.  Remember that the producer/importer took a big risk in making these wines and the only way they will keep making these wines we so desperately crave is to provide a solid business case for the endeavor – by acquiring them.  Another thing to remember is that, even in our current limited market, there are some mid-range and well-priced options (e.g. Moulin Riche and Royaumont) and some with terrific QPR (e.g. Fourcas Dupré) and many of the more expensive wines (e.g. Lascombes and Grand-Puy Ducasse (both on my Best of 2017 list)), are worth the money (if you can afford it)

Color and Country-Strong

Mirroring the general consumption trends of the kosher wine market, the vast majority of kosher French runs are red blends (excluding Champagne and Sauternes).  There were some great white wines made in the early 00’s but the market wasn’t there yet and it took a long time to sell out the expensive Montrachet (Burgundy Chardonnay) and Pouilly Fumé (Loire Sauvignon Blanc).  Many of the 2004 whites suffered from the same premature oxidation issues (premox) as the regular market, giving the French white wines another blow from which they are only recently recovering.  While the white wines of Bordeaux aren’t considered on the same level as those hailing from Burgundy, there are some very nice options currently available from many other regions (e.g. Chablis in Burgundy and Sancerre in the Loire Valley) and a number of worthy white Bordeaux options just around the corner – stay tuned.

Like most wine producing countries where much of the production never makes it out of the country, there is far more kosher French wine available in France (and other parts of Europe) than on US shelves.  However among the many anomalies within the kosher wine market (and like Israeli wines), the vast majority of better kosher options make their way to our shelves.  With the lion’s share of the kosher wine market located in the tristate area of the United States, the various kosher wine importers work tirelessly to ensure that the best stuff makes its way here (producers are also active in trying to get their best stuff to their largest potential market).  If you wander into a kosher store in Paris you will be greeted with dozens of unrecognizable kosher wine options to choose from, much of it plonk.  On a recent trip to France, I purchased and tasted 36 different wines off the shelves of kosher retailers and only found 6 wines worthy of my attention.  Notwithstanding these facts, many additional kosher wines don’t make their way out of Europe, leaving visitors with some nice options for treasures to bring home, especially in the cheaper range (Decent options priced at $8-15 in France are no longer worthy at the ~$25 they appear at on US shelves).  Another thing to keep in mind is that many of the wines that are mevushal in the US are sold as non-mevushal (and usually better / more interesting) in Europe (e.g. Château Le Crock), which also makes for some very interesting comparative tasting opportunities).

Seeing is Believing

With that not-so-brief primer on Bordeaux and some of its kosher-specific peculiarities, we can now delve into the specifics of the five lovely wineries I visited with Menachem Israelivitch on my recent trip to Bordeaux:  Château Léoville-Poyferré, Château Clark, Château Tertre, Château Malartic and Champagne Drappier.

I.  Château Léoville-Poyferré

Our first stop was at the famed Château Léoville-Poyferré, located in the Saint Julian region of the Médoc appellation, long one of the top kosher French wines available (the 1999 was a constant anniversary accompaniment as I was married that year).  Originally part of the much larger Léoville estate whose origins trace back to 1638 and was, at one point, the largest estate in the entire Médoc.  Classified as a Second Growth in the 1855 Classification, today’s Léoville-Poyferré is one of the three individual estates resulting from Léoville’s fragmentation over the years (the other two are Léoville Barton and Léoville-Las Cases).  The estate has been owned by the Cuvelier family since 1920 and they also own Château Le Crock and Moulin Riche.  While Le Crock is a separate winery located in nearby Saint-Estèphe (acquired by the Cuvelier’s before Léoville in 1903), Moulin Riche is a neighboring parcel that produced Léoville’s second wine until the incredible 2009 when the family determined to grant it its own designation (although it’s not an independent winery – all the production is done at Léoville-Poyferré).  Following this designation, Pavillion Poyferré was designated as the joint second wine of the two “estates” (i.e. the wine is a blend of younger vines located plot of a lessor quality located further from the river).

The estate grows Cabernet Sauvignon (~61%), Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc and the total annual (across the three wines) of 400,000 bottles annually is approximately 55% for the Léoville-Poyferré, 15-25% for the Moulin Riche with the Pavillon rounding out the rest.  In addition to being sourced from different plots, each of the three wine are also produced using different techniques with Léoville-Poyferré aged in 80% new French oak, Moulin Riche in 20% new oak and Pavillon aged solely in the 2nd-year barrels of both wines.

Production-wise, the tanks and barrels are of all different sizes as the winery tailors them to each specific plot and wine.  Special conical tanks are used in fermenting the Léoville to provide greater extraction and enable the winemaker to use only the pump-over (as opposed to punch-down) technique.  The château acquired an expensive optical sorter in 2011 (which is used to sort the grapes following the more traditional careful hand-sorting and helps ensures only the highest-quality grapes are used).

With common ownership across the properties, Royal Wine has been able to produce kosher cuvees of all four wines on a regular (if not annual) basis (Le Crock, Léoville-Poyferré, Pavillon de Léoville-Poyferré and Moulin Riche).  The Léoville-Poyferré was first made kosher for the 1995 vintage followed by 1999-2003, 2005 and then 2015 and 2017 (2015 is currently on the market).  Pavillon was first made as a kosher run for the 2012 vintage, skipped the less-than-optimal 2013 vintage and has then consecutively since 2014.  Moulin Riche was first made for the 2011 vintage and then every other year – 2013, 2015 and 2017 (Royal produced all four wines (3 Léoville and Le Crock) for the 2017 vintage (Le Crock was first made kosher for the 2001 vintage followed by 2003, 2005, 2012 and now 2015-2017).  While each component of the regular Léoville spends six months in oak before being blended around March-April for the en primeur and another 12 months or so in oak as a final blend, the kosher run is blended at harvest and aged in oak only as the final blended wine.  However, as noted above, 2015 was the first time that Royal contracted for a pro-rata portion of all the parcels and varietals, which enabled them to produce as close to identical a kosher run as ever before.  Compare the regular blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petite Verdot with the kosher blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petite Verdot and you will see how close they came, at least varietal-wise.

Following a tour of the winery, Menachem and I were joined in the very cool tasting room by Léoville’s head winemaker Isabelle Davin and Cellar Master Didier Thomann for some barrel tastings.  An entire wall of the tasting room is covered with the signatures of the entire whose who of the wine world, including Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson.  In addition to the star-studded team, the Château also utilizes the services of famed flying winemaker Michel Rolland who, together with the winemaking team and Menachem (for the kosher version) compile the blend.  We tasted barrel samples of the 2016 Pavillon (a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot (at 60+ years-old, all the Petit Verdot is designated for the higher wines)) and 2016 Le Crock (64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc).  The Pavillon blend was pulled together for our tasting and the Le Crock will ultimately have approximately 5% of press wine added to it (we tasted the non-mevushal version, while the US will get the mevushal version).  As good as 2015 was (I recommended both the Léoville and Moulin), the 2016 vintage is showing even better all around, with intense fruit and searing tannins in great balance, foreshadowing mind-bending complexity and depth (given the length of the newsletter, full blown notes of the finished wines I tasted will be in a separate missive).  Unfortunately pricing will likely be commensurate, so start saving up now.

II.  Château Clark

Our next stop was Château Clark, purchased in 1970 by Edmond Rothschild and today owned by his son Benjamin Rothschild, who remains the only branch of the storied Rothschild family to produce kosher wine (although I hope someone will convince Eric (or Saskia) Rothschild to make a kosher run of Lafite sooner or later).  Edmond’s grandfather – Baron Rothschild – actually poured more money into Israel’s winemaking industry than he spent acquiring Château Lafite-Rothschild (and look where that got him).

While Edmond owned shares in the family’s vineyards across the world (including Lafite and Argentina’s Fleches de Los Andes which also produces a kosher run), much of his attention was lavished on his own personal properties, Château Clark (where he is buried) and the neighboring Château Malmaison (which he gave to his wife Nadine). The actual structure of Château Malmaison is separate from the winery and is open to the public, having been owned by Empress Joséphine Bonaparte, who renovated the originally rundown estate to an extravagant degree and kept following her divorce from Napoléon.  Despite its prestigious history, the estate had fallen into disrepair by the time the Rothschild family acquired it, and represented quite a challenge for Edmond who poured significant resources into the winery, including extensive renovations and updated equipment.  However, the biggest change was in the vineyards, where significant portions of Cabernet Sauvignon were replaced with Merlot, deemed better suited to the terroir by wine consultant Emile Peynaud (who was subsequently replaced by Michel Rolland as consultant to the winery), with Merlot currently representing 70% of the Château’s total plantings.  Primarily focusing on red blends, the Château also has a few hectares of white varietals (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle) which it uses to produce a well-regarded white Bordeaux blend (which will hopefully be produced as a kosher run in the near future).

Starting with the 1986 vintage, Château Clark has been producing the kosher French wine stalwart – Barons Edmond Benjamin de Rothschild – consecutively for 30 years, skipping only the 2009 vintage.  Unlike most kosher French wines, it is a wine produced solely for the kosher market and the label doesn’t exist as a non-kosher wine (contrasted to Château Malmaison and the inaugural Château Clark which are produced as kosher runs).  The initiative was started by Pierre Miodownick even before he joined Royal Wines back in 1988.  The portfolio also includes wines produced from the neighboring Château Malmaison, Château Parsac (located in nearby Montagne-Saint-Émilion) and Château de Laurets (with plots in Montagne-Saint-Émilion and neighboring Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion).  In addition to wines sold under the Château’s labels, the Herzog family created the Les Lauriers label and utilizes grapes from Château Parsac to the Les Lauriers rosé and from Château de Laurets to make the Les Lauriers red blend.

In 2016 Château Clark replaced Michel Rolland with Eric Boissenot as consultant (while the Les Lauriers wines continue to use Michel Rolland’s expert advice) and added Fabrice Darmaillacq as head winemaker (often referred to as technical director in French wineries) who had previously worked at a well-known Landouc winery.  Taking advantage of expertise accumulated at his last posting, Fabrice implemented a number of changes intended to upgrade the wine’s quality.  Among these changes were incorporating more press wine into the blend to add heft (which is aged separately from the other components), making multiple changes to the chateau’s oak regime and implementing a new pour-over technique.  Utilizing the same type of conical vats used by Léoville, he drains the vats causing the hard cap to fall to the bottom of the vat and break into pieces.  Then the wine is pumped over the cap which helps control the extraction and achieve a more seductive and complex wine (a process referred to as delestage).

Menachem, Fabrice and I tasted through a plethora of new wines including the first ever vintage (2016) of the winery’s flagship Château Clark and a seven-vintage vertical of the aforementioned Baron Rothschild (1998, 1999 (both non-mevushal), 2007, 2012, 2014, 2015 and barrel-tasted the 2016 (all mevushal)).  The 1999 was really nice and at peak now with classic tertiary notes of mushroom and barnyard sharing center stage with subtle black fruit and hints of chocolate while the newer vintages showcased power and balance with green notes and warm spices dominating while the rich fruit needs some time to emerge and the 2016 showing great promise.  Other wines tasted included the 2016 Malmaison and the 2015 and 2016 Château Parsac (also from Montagne-Saint-Émilion).  We also tasted some Les Lauriers red wines (2010 mevushal and a fun comparative tasting of the mevushal and non-mevushal 2016.  The 2016 Clark is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon which spent 14 months in new French oak.  A deep and powerful wine with layers of complex flavors including rich black fruit, smoke, earthy minerals and chocolate backed by searing tannins and great balance with the fruit, oak and acidity which bodes well for its future.  A high quality wine that I look forward to tasting again on release.

Thank you again to Fabrice for his time and hospitality – it was great learning about the estate and hearing of his plans for the future.  I’m also hoping that they make the white wine kosher soon!

III.  Château Tertre

With a history dating back to 1143, Château Tertre is one of the oldest château in Bordeaux and is located in the acclaimed Marguax appellation.  Benefiting from being owned for a period time during the 1700s by the famous Bordeaux glass blower Pierre Mitchell (who invented the large-format Jeroboam), it was one of the first château to bottle its wine in glass (glass still plays a prominent part in the Château’s story with a roomful of ancient glass wine bottles providing a lovely decorative touch).  After centuries of acclaim the winery’s fortunes declined until it was acquired by Philippe Gasqueton in 1961 who replanted the vineyards, modernized operations and renovated the property.  The winery was subsequently sold to the owners of neighboring third-growth Château Giscours (the Jelgersma family) who are the current owners (and represent the path Royal followed to make a kosher cuvee at the winery).

The estate enjoys one of Margaux’s highest elevations, which is also the source of its name (tertre means hill in French).  Comprised of a single block of land, the vineyard is planted with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, with the vines averaging 40 years of age and some Cabernet Franc vines over 70 years of age.  The estate remains the same size it was when classified as a fifth growth in the 1855 Classification, a rarity for Bordeaux.  In addition to the vineyards, the grounds are filled with lovely sculpture-filled gardens, trees and one of the coolest swimming pools ever (where the family makes the most of the summer months it spends in the renovated château, which dates back to the 17th century).  With a goal of being 100% Biodynamic farming (the estate is currently 55% biodynamic-farmed), two hectares of vines are replanted every year and replaced with biodynamically farmed vines (the oldest parcel currently dates back to 1962).  Tailoring each parcel’s winemaking process includes utilizing a plethora of vinification equipment including wood and stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs and cement vats, each in a number of different sizes with fermentation typically done in 40% oak and 60% cement.

Together with winemaker (a/k/a technical director) Frédéric Ardouin (who has 10 vintages at Château Tertre under his belt), Menachem and I barrel-tasted the winery’s first kosher release of their flagship wine – Château du Tertre.  The blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc represented the final blend which had spent 14 months in 30% new French oak and then one month in 100% one-year barrels, but Menachem and Frédéric were still debating whether the wine needed additional time in oak.  I look forward to tasting the final released version of the elegant and delicious wine.

IV.  Château Malartic-Lagravière

Our last stop of the day was at another estate with roots dating back to the 17th century – Château Malartic-Lagravière.  While not included in the 1855 Classification, it was included in the 1953 classification of Graves and is one of only six Bordeaux properties classified for both its red and white wines (other known Graves-Classified kosher wineries are Smith-Haut-Lafite and Pape Clement).  Originally known as Domaine de Lagraviere, it was renamed in the 1850’s by its new owners to honor the prior owner-family’s famous son – Comte Anne-Joseph-Hippolyte Maures de Malartic.  A well-known colonial Governor and Admiral in the French Navy, it is the Admiral’s nautical connection which accounts for the Navy schooner on the Château’s logo (a large-scale gorgeous model of which is prominently displayed at the chateau.  The Château passed through the Ricard (Chevalier) family and was owned for a few years by Laurent Perrier before it was acquired by its current owners – the Bonnie family – in 1997.

After earning a fortune in the detergent business, the Bonnie’s directed their attention (and considerable resources) to their new acquisition, pouring close to $20 million into upgrading the estate by replanting many of the vineyards and completely modernizing the property.  The capital improvements also including acquiring many new quality vineyards, thus growing the property from the initial 17 hectares to 52 hectares today, with 7 hectares producing white wine (allocated 80% to Sauvignon Blanc and 20% to Semillon, some of which are over 60 years old) and the remaining allocated to their red blends (allocated 45% to Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% to Merlot, 7% to Cabernet Franc and 3% to Petit Verdot) with vines averaging 35 years of age and the best quality vines are Cabernet Sauvignon dating back to 1950 which are those located right outside the winery’s gorgeous tasting room – overlooking the barrel and fermentation areas.

Haven been bitten hard by the Bordeaux-bug, the Bonnies acquired an additional Bordeaux property in 2006 – Château Gazin-Rocquencourt located in Pessac Leognan (from which the first kosher run was made for 2015 vintage).  Following the model established at Malartic, the Bonnie’s invested significant capital in upgrading Gazin as well, including planting (in 2010) 2 of the property’s 22 hectares for purposes of making a white wine (with the rest allocated 55% to Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% to Merlot).  At the same time they further expanded their vinous portfolio and acquired Bodega DiamAndes in Argentina’s famed Mendoza region.

Like many other French wineries, Malartic produces two labels – a Grand Vin – Château Malartic-Lagravière (in both red and white, reflecting their classification for both) and a second wine – La Reserve de Malartic (also a red and white blend).  Kosher runs of the red Château Malartic-Lagravière made for the 2003, 2004 and 2005 vintages and then again in 2014 and 2016.

While these days Malartic’s technology may seem standard, when it was installed back in the late 90s it was considered quite revolutionary and stood out as being among the region’s most technologically advanced properties (and today continues to showcase meticulous professionalism and attention to detail).  They were among the first using only gravitational pull to move the wine from the fermentation tanks to the oak barrels in the cellar.  The red wines are tank fermented, while the white wines are barrel-fermented.  Instead of crushing the grapes and pumping the liquid into the fermentation vats they use pulley lifts to bring whole clusters up and into the tanks, which are located above the barrel room.  Following whole-cluster fermentation, the wine is dropped into the presses and then flows directly down into the waiting barrels below, all of which helps create a less noticeably tannic and more elegant wine.  They also started using a large number of different-sized fermentation containers in their aesthetically-pleasing octagonal-shaped winery, including conical vats, similar to those used by Léoville-Poyferré.  Also like Léoville, they use over 30 different vats, each tailored to a different parcel within the vineyard to coax the very best possible result from each one.  Other improvements including implementing a much stricter vineyard selection regime (including harvesting two or three times to ensure perfect ripening for each parcel), which led to allocating a much higher percentage of their fruit to their second wine, helping to greatly improve the quality of their Grand Vin (45% of the red grapes go to the Grand Vine and 55% to the second wine; while 80% of the white goes to the Grand Vin).

Generally speaking, the red wines spend two years in oak, utilizing 70% new oak for the Grand Vin and 20% new oak for the second wine, while the white wine spends one year in oak, 50% new for the Grand Vine and 20% new for the second wine.

Menachem and I met with Bruno Laplane, who is married to one of the Bonnie’s two daughters Véronique and, together with their son Jean-Jacques and daughter in-law Séverine, manages the estate (with Michel Rolland consulting).  Bruno was a great host, showing us around the winery before we settled into the lovely tasting room to taste the [then-]recently bottled 2015 Château Gazin-Rocquencourt and a barrel sample of the now already bottled and soon to be released 2016 Château Malartic-Lagravière (I also spent some time trying to convince him to make the a kosher run of the white Malartic with Royal as you can see from my energetic hand gesticulations).  The Gazin is a rich and elegant wine, showing classic Bordeaux notes of black fruit, herbal nuance with loamy earth and mushroom nose with great tannic backbone and a lingering finish.  The 2016 Malartic was also showing great elegance and a more feminine sensuous structure than the Gazin with richer fruit and more elegant expression.  Both are lovely.

V.  Drappier

The next day was allocated to a relative newcomer and rising star within the kosher French wine world – the Champagne House of Drappier.

An approximate 2 ½ hour drive from Paris in the Côte des Bar appellation in the Aube region of Champagne, Drappier is a true family Champagne house that was founded in 1808 and is still owned and operated by the family members.  Hugo Drappier (8th generation) is the current head of estate (i.e. CEO/COO) while his father Michel Drappier (7th generation) is head winemaker.  Michel’s father André (6th generation) is still lending his expertise at 91 and Michel’s other two children Antoine and Charlene are also active with Antoine head of viticulture and in charge of the vineyards while Charlene heads PR and marketing (she also designed the labels).

Drappier was founded  in 1803 when patriarch François Drappier moved to Urville and begin working the initial family vineyard which today spans nearly 60 hectares.  A then-controversial decision by Michel’s grandfather in the early 1930s to plant Pinot Noir was initially the subject of gentle derision among the other growers and led him to be nicknamed “Father Pinot” but obviously turned out to be the right call as today Pinot Noir is an essential contributor to many of the world’s greatest Champagnes and represents approximately 70% of all grapes grown in the region.  Talk about “he who laughs last…”  In 1952 added the Carte D’Or to the portfolio and, following massive devastation of the vineyards in 1957 due to heavy frost, Pinot Meunier was planted (a varietal more resistant to icy weather).  In 1968 the house continued to innovate with the introduction of a 100% Pinot Noir rosé champagne.  Michel has been at the helm since 1973 and continues the family tradition of exploring new varietals (recent plantings have included forgotten grape varieties like Arbane, Petit Meslier and Blanc Vrai).  The family also acquired new vineyards of Pinot Noir last year to compensate for the devastating frost of the 2016 and 2017 vintages where significant portion of certain vineyards were lost.

The property is a great combination of new and old with parts of the vaulted cellar dating back to the 12th century and the tasting room lined with wooden panels dated even further back and found on the property.  A tour through the cellars is really a walk down memory lane with ancient caverns and dusty bottles occupying space with modern winemaking technology and soon-to-be released bottes of the delicious Champagne.  The ancient structure was by Monks (including St. Bernard de Clairvaux) who arrived from Côte de Nuits where they were tending the vines of acclaimed Burgundy property – Clos Vougeot (to date, the only vineyard to produce a Grand Cru kosher run).  Among the vines they brought with them and planted in the area where the ancestors of the Pinot Noir grapes comprising a significant portion of Drappier’s current Champagne production.  They own 60 hectares and lease another 60 hectares throughout the Côte des Bar, Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs regions.  They also purchase an additional 50-60 hectares worth of grapes to fill out their production

Current production is approximately 1.6 million bottles a year spread across 11 different wines, including four kosher options.  The four kosher options are the soon to be released rosé, the newly released non-dosage, the recently-discontinued (in kosher) Carte Blanch and the houses workhouse – the yellow-labeled Carte D’Or.  While many of the wines are barrel fermented, the Carte D’Or is fermented solely in stainless steel and a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.  Kosher production is split around 75% for the Carte D’Or, 20% towards the non-dosage and 5% the new rosé.

Many of the wines will sit in oak for a period of time between six months to two years before they are blended into the final blend (at which point they are bottled, topped with dosage and capped to undergo the second fermentation).  To achieve the perfect blend, Michel uses a wide range of differently sized oak barrels in addition to the traditional 225 liter French barrique.  Among these are 5,000 liter oak barrels sourced from the 17th century oak forest of Tronçais planted to supply Louie the 14th with wood for his ships.  Oak from this forest is known for its tighter grain that imparts a more subtle flavor, making it perfectly suited for white wines.

Different from many other Champagne houses who create their large format Champagnes by filling them with multiple bottles of finished regular (750 ml) sized bottles, Drappier’s large format bottles actually undergo their second fermentation in the large format bottles, a process that requires additional cost and effort but which Michel feels imparts a unique profile to the prized larger bottles.  Drappier also allows the wine to continue sitting on the lees long after the second fermentation has been completed and only disgorges the wine when the house is ready to release it.  This extended process allows many of the cuvees to obtain a richer and more expressive profile that Michel believes is unique to his house (some of the older wines have been sitting on the lees since 1959).  Only new oak is used and, keeping with tradition, Drappier still riddles approximately 1/3 of its entire production by hand, including 100% of their large format bottles and all the premium cuvees.

Drappier’s dosage program benefits from the same meticulous care and attention to detail that Michel brings to every other aspect of production.  Using Drappier’s own wine to distill the dosage (other than for the kosher runs which obviously require kosher wine as a base), it is then aged for up to 15 years (their oldest dosage dates back to the 1959 vintage) before it is used.  The goal is to use as little dosage as possible so the dosage is distilled to a highly concentrated level of 700 grams per liter.  With dozens of dosages to choose from, Michel is able to provide each wine with a dosage specifically tailored for it.

Drappier recent added two new wines to their portfolio – the kosher rosé which has not yet been released and the newly released Zero Dosage wine, made from 100% Pinot Noir which was picked as late as possible to ensure the highest levels of natural sugar.  In order to retain the fresh and vibrant notes, the wine goes through full malolactic in stainless and spends two years on the lees (with no oak contact at all).  The result is a vibrant and fresh wine with lovely dark fruits and a concentrated tight mousse.  Beautifully seductive and elegant, it’s easily one of my favorite currently available options.  Thank you again Michel for the gracious hospitality, lvely food and wine tasting anf for sharing your obvious passion with me.

All is all, it was truly amazing to be able to visit all of the wineries and feel the passion directly from the horse’s mouth while learning about the tremendous history embedded in the properties which we get to enjoy through the wines.  I hope you enjoyed learning about the wineries as much as I did and I look forward to sharing my next trip with you as well.

Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Despite being in the throes of winter, I find nothing cheers me up more than a crisp glass of bubbly and, with all that is going on in the world around us, I doubt anyone is going to find good cheer and celebratory vibes unwelcome which is the genesis being this week’s topic of sparkling wine (with Champagne at its core).  Crisply refreshing and owning a near-perfect pairing ability with a vast quantity of foods, this genre of wine has been pigeonholed as a celebratory beverage and continues to fall short of gaining any real traction among the mainstream kosher-drinking crowd.

You Can Quote Me on That

Centuries of celebrity quotes trumpeting Champagne as a wine to be consumed early and often including from Winston Churchill (“Champagne is the wine of civilization and the oil of government”), F. Scott Fitzgerald (“too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right”) and Napoleon Bonaparte ( “I drink Champagne when I win, to celebrate and I drink Champagne when I lose, to console myself”; a quote plagiarized and bastardized by Churchill himself into “In victory we deserve it, in defeat we need it”) have not succeeded in convincing the wine-guzzling masses to incorporate it into their regular repertoire.  Beyond our usual desire to educate and inform, I hope that this newsletter will convince at least some of you to reach for sparkling wine the next time you are looking for a refreshing and versatile wine.

While the British actually “invented” sparkling wine in the 17th century, they failed to make it their own, partly as a result of their inability to grow quality grapes during their inferior dark and dreary English summers.  It wasn’t until 30 odd-years later that Champagne was born, after a French monk named Dom Pérignon fiddled with the process and helped create the luxurious wine by refining a number of the process (while an avid winemaker and oenophile, he wasn’t actually the “inventor” of Champagne, per se – for more on the history of Champagne try this link).

The Fine Print

Despite prevalent usage around the globe as a descriptor for any wine with bubbles, legally Champagne may only refer sparkling wine grown in the chalky soil of France’s cool-climate Champagne Appellation D’origine Contrôlée (AOC), which yields grapes with considerable acidity contributing to Champagne’s food compatibility.  In order to be labeled as Champagne, the wine must also be produced in accordance with a stringent set of rules comprising the traditional méthode champenoise (the traditional method of making Champagne described below).  Located approximately 90 miles east of Paris, the region covers approximately 84,000 acres of prime wine-growing soil spread among 319 villages (referred to as Crus).  Approximately 90% of this land is owned and farmed by nearly 15,000 independent growers with the remainder owned by the approximately 110 Champagne “Houses” and collectively yielding over 300 million bottles of Champagne a year.  While the tradition of independent growers selling their crop to the houses continues for the most part, recent years have seen a proliferation of growers producing retaining all or part of their crop to produce, bottle and market Champagne under their own names with nearly 5,000 growers trying their hands these days at this process.  These wines are commonly referred to as grower Champagne and are prized for their quality and uniqueness among oenophiles around the world.  Unfortunately there are no kosher grower Champagne wines available today (and given the methodology of producing kosher French wine, I doubt there is any such grower Champagne in our near future either).

While there are a number of methodologies for creating sparkling wines (a topic for another newsletter), méthode champenoise is generally deemed the best, with many famed wine-growing regions around the world producing wines in this method including Spain (Cava), Italy (spumante or prosecco (depending on the region it is from)) and South Africa (Cap Classique).  That said, there are numerous excellent options for the discerning customer, spread across the entire range of geography, price and methodologies.  Partially due to low-levels of interest in the genre, the kosher wine market is still playing catch up with the general marketplace, although California is making some nice versions with Hagafen being a long(er)-time player in the market and Covenant recently releasing a sparkling wine of their own.  That said, some of the best kosher sparkling wine available comes from Israel.  The Golan heights Winery has been the market leader in this regard for over a decade, with their Blanc de Blancs under the Yarden leader ranking top five sparklers every year, accompanied by the none-too-shabby Brut Rose and the insanely well-priced Gamla (Gilgal in the US) Brut comprising the best slate of kosher sparkling wines around.  Other high-end players are entering the market, with Matar releasing a new sparkling wine (which I haven’t tasted yet) and Castel having three different versions in the works (all tasted last year, but it will be a while before they are ready for market).

Leave it to the Lawyers…

One thing to note is that, in addition to trademarking the name “Champagne” (and after substantial lobbying), Champagne growers obtained protection in 1994 for the production method as well and non-Champagne wines made in this traditional method may now only be labeled as haven been made in the méthode traditionale (although unlike with Champagne, to date this is rarely enforced outside the European Union).

The Scientific Nuts and Bolts

So what exactly does this trademarked wine-making methodology entail?  For starters, it is a complex, intricate, expensive and multi-step process (which lends itself to the limited number of kosher wine producers trying their hand at it).  Utilizing Champagne’s three primary grape varietals – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the wine first undergoes a fermentation process similar to that of other quality still wines (typically in stainless steel tanks).  Once this fermentation process has been completed, the still wine is bottled together with yeast and sugar (a syrup referred to as liqueur de triage) and then sealed, triggering a second fermentation in the bottle that yields the effervescence (a/k/a bubbles) for which the wine is known.  The CO2 produced also serves to protect the wine from oxidation, thus contributing to Champagne’s long aging ability.  Once the secondary fermentation is completed, the lees drop to the bottom of the bottle where they infuse the wine with additional depth and complexity.  After the wine has sufficiently “aged on its lees” (referred to as aging sur lie), the cap is removed and the trapped gases push out the accumulated lees (at this point the bottles are typically capped with a bottle top similar to those used for beer bottles, with the elaborate cork, wire and foil only being added at the end of the process).  The bottle is recapped and placed in a special rack, tilted downwards at a 45% angle and slowly rotated over time until the lees (a more glamorous descriptor than “dead yeast cells”) settle in the neck of the bottle (a process referred to as “riddling”).  While some of the more prestigious Champagne houses continue to use the old-fashioned (and extremely laborious) practice of riddling by hand for their high-end offerings (over a period of 6-8 weeks, every few days each bottle requires a light tap and a slight turn), the majority of wines made in this manner (whether in Champagne or elsewhere) are riddled utilizing an automated process.

Following the riddling process, the wine located in the bottle’s neck is flash frozen, the lees are removed (a process referred to as disgorgement) and the bottle is then topped up with a syrup known as liqueur d’expédition (to compensate for the total lack of residual sugar as a result of the secondary fermentation) in a process known as dosage.  Many Champagne houses claim a proprietary syrup with ingredients other than the traditional water and sugar, while the exact ratios are well guarded regardless ad used over a period of decades (excluding kosher versions – scroll down this link for a brief write up on Drappier).  Following this process, the bottle is corked, sealed with a wire netting to prevent the corks escape and covered in the festive colored foil we see in the wine store.  The amount of sugar in the added syrup will determine the level of the Champagne’s sweetness which is categorized based on dryness as follows: the sweetest level is doux, proceeding in order of increasing dryness to demi-sec (half-dry), sec (dry), extra sec (extra dry), brut (almost completely dry and the most common) and a small percentage of Champagne which is sold without any added sugar and categorized as extra brutbrut nature or brut zero.

The Art of the Matter

Most Champagne is made from a blend of grapes produced in many different vintages (typically between 30-60 different wines comprise every non-vintage Champagne!).  While the majority of wine in any given non-vintage Champagne is derived from different grape varietals of the current vintage year from a number of different regions, a certain portion from past years utilized to ensure a consistent style (even a small amount of aged Champagne has an outsized impact and can add substantial depth, richness and complexity to the overall blend).  This blending also enables the winemaker to compensate for mediocre vintages and inconsistent climate.  The most important marketing aspect for the Champagne houses (also the winemaker’s biggest challenge) is to ensure a consistent “House Blend” year after year and blending is likely the most important aspect of Champagne – the soul of Champagne.  When preparing the blend, the winemaker needs to consider not what the wine tastes like right now but rather what the resulting wine will taste like after second fermentation and many years of aging on the lees.  In exceptional vintage years a vintage is declared and the best wine from that year will be marketed as vintage Champagne requiring a minimum of three years bottle aging on its lees under the AOC rules (non-vintage Champagne requires a minimum of 18 months) and guaranteeing a substantially higher price.  That said, most premium Champagne is aged a minimum of six to eight years.  While there is no vintage kosher Champagne on the market, there is at least one in the works, so stay tuned!

All Shapes and Sizes

Besides vintage and non-vintage, there are other differing styles including cuvee de prestige (typically the flagship wine of a Champagne house and usually the most well-known of its wines), Blanc de Noirs (which refers to a white wine made from dark grapes, usually Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier), Blanc de Blanc (a white wine from white grapes only (typically Chardonnay, the best of which are sourced from the chalky slopes of the Côte des Blancs) and Rosé Champagne (nearly every major Champagne house worth its salt is producing at least one Rosé version).  Produced by a different method than still Rosé, most Rosé Champagne is made by adding around 15% of still red wine to the otherwise white wine.  Marketed as even more romantic and sexier than “regular” Champagne and coupled with a (controlled) scarcity, the prices of Rosé Champagne usually exceed those of their white brethren.  Unfortunately, other than the delightful color, the added cost rarely yields anything qualitative in the wine with the “regular” versions nearly always being much better wines.

Late to the Party

One additional type of sparkling wine is Late Disgorged.  Given the preserving impact of the lees, a winery typically disgorges the wine periodically, each time limiting the quantities to those that can be sold in the short-term (as with most wines, leaving sparkling wine on the shelf to collect dust degrades the wine and can have a damaging impact on the winery’s reputation), leading to multiple disgorgement dates for the wine.  The actual disgorgement date of each bottling has historically been among a Champagne house’s most guarded secret, with the disgorgement date embossed on each bottle in a secret numeric code.  However, this practice is changing with more transparency available online to decode these dates and certain grower and other Champagne producers, including the disgorgement date on the label.  While wines disgorged further from the initial bottling are effectively “late disgorged” (relative to those that hit the market first) that is not the concept.  Rather, wines labeled as such are usually disgorged long after the wine has been released, sold and cleared out of the market, typically many years following the initial release.  As Madam Bollinger was the first to develop the concept with the release in 1961 of the late disgorged 1952 vintage, RD (an acronym late disgorged in French- récemment dégorgé) is actually a trademark of Bollinger (leading many to associate the concept solely with the Bollinger Champagne house.  However, late disgorged and dégorgement tardif mean the same thing and are used interchangeably.

A Word of Caution

Conceptually, the reason for late disgorgement is that the longer aging time on the lees contributes additionally complexity and more pronounced flavors in the wine which can result in a richer and more luxurious style for the wine.  Despite the preservation of the lees, these wines mature differently that post-disgorgement (where that breath of oxygen they received during the disgorgement process contributes to a different aging process).  Generally speaking when tasting a late-disgorged wine side by side with its initial release, one should expect greater complexity from the late disgorged version coupled with a fresher feeling.  Some winemakers feel that there are different stages in the evolution of Champagne and the late disgorgement is a way to have the consumer enjoy the different stages in the best way possible.  The wine is sometimes actually different as well, since the wineries often reduce the sugar level in the dosage for the late disgorged wines.  Given the added capital expense endured by the winery, such bottles are usually much more expensive than the initial releases (sometimes double or tripling the price), so they also provide wineries with a boost to their bottom line.  A word of warning though; the advanced age does not mean increased aging ability – to the contrary.  Late disgorged wines are best consumed within a short period after release – most experts recommend within a few years of release, with all kosher versions to date falling off the proverbial cliff within 12 months.  Remember, regardless of what marketing and retailers will tell you, late disgorged is not intended as a better” wine, simply a different wine that reflects a different stage of evolution.

Pop or Slice

Keeping with the wine’s celebratory personality, opening a bottle of Champagne is always accompanied with celebratory fanfare, if only as a result of the delightful popping cork.  However, for true entertainment and flair nothing beats sabrage which refers to the method of opening a Champagne bottle with a saber (check out some of the cool videos of sabering on YouTube).  While seemingly dangerous and complicated, sabering merely requires sliding a saber with slight force along the bottle.  Coupled with the increased pressure inside the bottle, the force of the saber hitting the lip of the Champagne bottle breaks the glass and separates the lip from the rest of the bottle.  While a saber may be somewhat tough to come by, many slightly sharp or very thin objects will suffice – I have seen someone do it in person with an iPad.

Included below are tasting notes for recommended Champagne and other sparkling wines from around the world – pop a bottle or two and chase the pandemic blues away!

France

Baron Rothschild, Champagne, NV:   A lovely nose of yeast, rich citrus, chalk minerals, tart stone fruit, quince, pith and some tropical notes are backed on the medium bodied palate with decent acidity and a slightly larger mousse with plenty of bold citrus, rich stone fruit, pears, a hint of herbacousness and more minerals.  A somewhat short finish, the wine is nice and pleasing but a little overpriced for what it provides, especially when compared to the Drappier.

 

Champagne Drappier, Brut Nature, Zero Dosage, Pinot Noir, NV:  When this was first released it earned a slot on my best Wines of 2018 list.  However, as discussed above, the wine goes south rather quickly, so make sure to check the disgorgement date before buying.  The wine is 100% Pinot Noir which was picked as late as possible to ensure the highest levels of natural sugar, the wine underwent full malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats and then spent two years sur lie resulting in a vibrant and fresh-tasting wine.  The Zero Dosage moniker reflects the fact that, unlike most Champagne wines, no dosage (sugar, often mixed with wine) was added to the bottle prior to the Champagne’s second fermentation in the bottle.  The result is a vibrant and fresh wine that is beautifully seductive and elegant with a tight mousse and rich notes of tart green apple, yellow citrus, fresh-baked brioche and a delightful overlay of warm spices.  More subtle yeasty notes than Drappier’s Carte D’Or, the medium bodied wine is complex and rich with flinty minerals, great acidity and a lingering finish that make it a welcome addition to any meal or occasion, but make sure to consume within 12 months of the disgorgement date or you are likely to be disappointed [mevushal].

Champagne Drappier, Carte d’Or, Brut, NV:   Made from a blend of 80-90% Chardonnay, 5-15% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier (all traditional Champagne grapes, if not in this exact combination), the wine has a delightful nose of citrus, yeasty and toasty brioche, some pear, green apples and stone fruits with hints of flinty minerals and lip-smacking citrus notes.  Much of the same follows on the medium-bodied palate with more yeasty notes, toasted hazelnuts, tart green apples, chalky minerals and good tight and focused bubbles that keep the flavors going on your palate including quince, rock, red grapefruit and citrus pith, and this wine was actually enjoyable the next day (under a Champagne stopper) [mevushal].

 

 

Champagne Heritage, Brut, Cuvée Leon / Lucien, Premier Cru, Bokobsa Sieva NV:  Tasted side by side the similarities were evident, but I was surprised to learn that the two different bottlings were of the exact same wine and disheartened to learn that the reason was that each had an hashgacha that wouldn’t agree to be on the same bottle as the other…  Yeah. So, onto the wine itself which was pleasurable.  Good yeasty notes of toasted brioche, stone fruit, pears, quince and lemons along with chalk minerals and good balancing acidity on the medium bodied palate.  Tight mousse with hints of herbal notes and more yeasty notes along with toasted hazelnuts.  Not for long term cellaring but enjoyable now [produced by Bokobsa but likely only available in Europe].

 

Janisson & Fils, Champagne, Grand Cru, Brut, NV:  A relative newcomer on the market, the wine is lovely with loads of citrus, green apples and quince on the bright nose, backed by toasted bread, yeasty notes, a hint of zesty citrus and spice that livens things up.  The medium-bodied palate has a rich and focused mousse and elegant structure with more bright citrus, baked apple, almonds, some slightly bitter citrus pith, all backed by lovely acidity and a zestiness that runs through and provides nuance, complexity and a crisp refreshingness that tantalizes and pleases through the long lingering finish.  12% AbV.  Drink now through 2022, maybe longer.

Laurent Perrier Champagne, Brut, NV:  As indicated in the article, I enjoy the Brut version more than its sexier Rosé counterpart.  Plenty of toasted brioche and warm nuts on the nose to go with a subdued array of green apples, citrus, peach and pear notes.  With a rich and complex palate so typical of true Champagne (and usually lacking in most other sparkling wines) and loaded with yeasty bread, hints of tropical fruit, zesty citrus notes including lemon and rich grapefruit; all held together by tightly focused and tiny bubbles that continue to tantalize after the wine is gone, this is a great bottle of wine and worthy of both special occasions and a random Monday evening with someone special.

Laurent Perrier Champagne, Cuvee Rosé, NV:  Among the bigger Champagne “names” on the kosher market, the wine has long held an elevated status among the more mainstream kosher consumers, while more experience Champagne drinkers acknowledge the qualitative superiority of the “regular” version.  Sourced from 100% Pinot Noir fruit in the same saignée methodology as still rosé wine, the nose presents much like a traditional rosé with luscious notes of strawberry, tart raspberry and citrus accompanied by a tinge of herbal notes and just a hint of yeast indicating its genre.  The medium bodied palate has a decently focused mousse backed by good acidity and tannins that serve as a good backbone for the fruit and spice.  Drink now (and pay attention to the disgorgement notes as the label/brand has been around for a long time and given the price point, often lingers in lessor wine shops (where it loses its luster over time).

“Rest” of Europe

Elvi Wines Cava, Brut, NV:  A longtime favorite of mine and a great option when you are looking for a good sparkling wine for under $20 (the wine has been mevushal on and off for a few years already with the current version being non-mevushal, so be sure to check).  Crisply dry with plenty of acidity and a tight mousse, the wine is a blend of Spanish grapes including Pansa Blanca (a/k/a Xarello) with plenty of bright red fruit, lemon pith, grapefruit, floral and toast on a light to medium bodied palate with yeasty brioche, tart green apple and plenty of lip-smacking citrus.  Any easy drinking, great with anything, refreshing sparkling wine. Cava as it was meant to be.  Well worth stocking up on and having on hand for anytime the fancy strikes.

 

Koenig, Cremant d’Alsace, Brut, NV:  Another well-priced quaffer that provides good value in a well-made package.  Pear and yellow apple on the nose, backed by light yeasty notes, white flowers and a hint of summer stone fruit with a pleasing light bitterness keeping things lively.  The light bodied palate has decently controlled bubbles with loads of citrus coming through on the mid-palate, joining the fruit and toasty notes.  Good acidity keeps things lively, although this is a short-term consumption play and isn’t intended for any sort of cellaring, so enjoy over the next 12 months.

California

Hagafen, Rose, Brut, 2017:  Despite being in the sparkling game for a while and a decent portfolio of a number of different options, Hagafen’s portfolio of sparkling wines seems to fly below the radar.  Other than a few missteps here and there, they can be counted having a number of quality options across their labels, with this brut Rose no exception.  Rich with lovely near-sweet red summer fruits and a hint of tart cranberry adding complexity, the wine serves up a delicious mix of fruit and citrus backed by good acidity with nuances of minerals, citrus pith and toasty brioche complementing the package and yielding a delicious wine, albeit lacking in complexity.  As with most Rose options (sparkling or otherwise), best consumed through 2021, maybe a bit longer.

 

Herzog, Selection, Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Brut, NV:  Despite the lower price tag (and presumed qualitative status), I found this humble sparkler more enjoyable and better made than its more expensive and newly introduced Momentus in Herzog’s Lineage line.  Similar to Elvi’s Cava, this is a well-priced, simple and pleasurable wine intended for enjoyable consumption with or without food and unintended for any sort of cellaring.  A bright and friendly nose showcases yellow apples, sweet pear, white blooming flowers and toasted yeasty fresh-baked bread all backed by a nicely controlled mousse, good acidity and streaked through with citrus pith, some toasted notes and more delicious citrus notes.  Drink over the next 12 months or so.

Israel

Dalton, Pet-Nat, 2019:  One of my favorite underrated wineries, Dalton doesn’t seem to get the love is deserves as it continues to serve up well-made, well-priced and interesting wines across a broad spectrum of prices and genres.  Whether the revised ancient winemaking methodology is a passing fad or here to stay remains to be seen, but Dalton’s version of pét-nat showcases quality winemaking and innovative creativity, while also improving over their initial 2018 version (that wasn’t bad to begin with but has an interesting story on how the label changed before it was imported (2018 label on the right and the US 2019 label on the left)).  A blend of blend of 90% Semillon and 10% Muscat, the wine is fun, approachable and pleasing while providing a new wine-drinking experience.  Tart apples and summer stone fruit along with herbal nuance, slate mineral and a whiff of spice are backed by decent acidity and a small mousse that pleases.  Drink over the next 9-12 months.

 

Golan Heights Winery, Gilgal (Gamla in Israel), Brut, NV:  By this point it may feel repetitive when I praise a wine for being well-priced, but despite everything written above about the many worthy candidates, this is the undisputable QPR kosher sparkler of them all.  As mentioned above, the Golan Heights Winery’s sparkling portfolio is top notch, with nearly every offering shooting straight to the top of the rankings and this wine is no different.  Insanely well-priced, the wine showcases the same quality winemaking of its higher-priced siblings.  Made in the traditional méthode champenoise, the wine is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  With a delightfully structured mousse, this medium-bodied sparkler presents with plenty of yeasty brioche, green apples and pears, freshly-grated lemon zest, toasted hazelnuts and hints of warm herbs built around a core of bracing acidity that provides a long and seemingly-endless finish.  An über-YH Best Buy to be enjoyed through 2022, maybe longer.

 

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blancs, 2014:  Achron, Achron, Chaviv (unsuccessfully translated as last, but not least) certainly applies to this wine, likely my favorite of the bunch and the one I enjoy more often than any other sparkling wine.  While this is partially due to its continued attractive pricing (easily a YH Best Buy), its more due to its incredible quality and sheer deliciousness.  Representing everything a sparkling wine should be, the wine hits it out of the park nearly every year and has only had 1.5 missteps from its initial release back in 1998.  If I needed to sum up this wine in one word it would be an easy task (even for me) – delicious.  Grapefruit, lime, apple, melon and hints of pineapple abound in this delicious wine which is bone dry and loaded with crisp acidity.  Toasted yeasty brioche and sharp, long-lasting bubbles make this wine a delight and an awesome match with almost any dish you care to throw its way.  Subtle, elegant and refined while providing oodles of pleasure with bright lemon, pears, tart apple, red and white grapefruit, citrus pith, flinty minerals and notes of fresh-peeled ginger and other warm spices complement each other in near-perfect harmony.  Great acidity and a tightly controlled mousse ensure the wine maintains focus as you work your way through the bottle (far too quickly).  Stock up while you can since, at less than $30 a bottle, it won’t be around for long but should cellar comfortably (and evolve) through 2030.

 

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Brut Rose, 2014:  While the genre’s reputation as lessor wines than their clear brethren is well deserved, in this case the Rose version is up to snuff.  A lovely nose redolent of sweet summer fruit is enhanced by toasty sourdough, yeasty notes, judicious citrus, some herbal nuance, slate minerals and a whiff of Crème Fraîche.  The medium bodied palate has an elegant and tight mousse that benefit from a minute or so in the glass, following which you are rewarded with summer red fruits, more citrus including red grapefruit, a slight note of roasted herbs on a toasty background backed by bracing acidity that keeps the wine fresh and vibrant.