Chardonnay

June 24, 2013

#250 – June 21, 2013

As spring quickly gives way to summer, I am looking forward to a drinking season loaded with crisp and refreshing wines such as Sauvignon Blanc and Rose. This week’s newsletter is dedicated to one of the noble varietals which doesn’t get nearly enough attention on these pages, but certainly produces quality wines in Israel and world-class treasures around the globe – Chardonnay.  I recently took a quick look at my “Wine Types” page and was astonished to see that I had never done an in-depth page on Chardonnay.  While I have obviously written about and enthusiastically recommended many Chardonnay wines, the grape itself had never been given its due on these pages.

There are likely many reasons for Chardonnay getting the short shrift, including my desire to introduce folks to the lessor known varietals which they likely have encountered less frequently, and Chardonnay’s position as America’s most popular grape excludes it from that equation.  Additionally, and somewhat similarly to Merlot, Chardonnay has suffered a backlash to its popularity in the 1980s, even inspiring the “ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd.  Despite the strong dislike expressed by many a wine lover towards Chardonnay, there is certainly a reason for Chardonnay’s popularity (besides its ease of cultivation which contributes heavily to its surging popularity) and many of the world’s top wines are Chardonnay-based including Chablis (where it is the only permitted grape and one of Chardonnay’s best examples of aging ability), Blanc de Blanc Champagne, Montrachet, Pouilly–Fuissé and other white Burgundy wines (its area of origin).

As indicated above, Chardonnay originated in France’s Burgundy region but has evolved to become the world’s most widely planted white grape varietal, grown across the world.  One of Chardonnay’s primary characteristics is its flavor neutrality, allowing it to assume hugely varying profiles based on the terroir in which it is grown, the oak in which it is fermented and/or aged and the winemaking techniques utilized to vinify it.  This attribute is behind the mass number of different styles of Chardonnay produced across the word from the crisp and mineral laced wines of Chablis to the buttery wines of California laced with gobs of tropical fruit.  That said, Chardonnay certainly seems to be at its best when grown in chalk and limestone, which grant it a mineral attribute that counters the fruit and can be incredibly refreshing while potentially remaining quite complex.

As Chardonnay ripens it rapidly loses its acidity, which is one of the reasons that Israel’s Chardonnay (which grows in a relatively hot climate) is somewhat lackluster, especially with respect to the crisp acidity typically required to counter the lush fruit, oak and buttery notes from undergoing malolactic fermentation (a second fermentation in which tart malic acid (the acid found in green apples) is converted to creamier lactic acid (the acid found in milk)).  Wines which have undergone malolactic fermentation tend to be rounder with creamier texture but somewhat lower acidity levels.  While most Chardonnay grown in Israel and California is subjected to barrel aging (and many of the French versions are oak-free), there are exceptions to every rule with Binyamina’s unoaked Chardonnay being a successful version (in some vintages) of this philosophy.  Many folks are surprised and often turned off upon drinking unoaked Chardonnay for the first time, being completely unfamiliar with the combination of heavier body and green apple & citrus notes unencumbered by the buttery and oaky notes they are accustomed to.

It was an oak-aged California Chardonnay that made much of the noise during the Judgment of Paris in 1976 – Chateau Montelena.  While California winemakers initially imitated their Burgundy peers with lean and more mineral-laced versions, starting in the 1970s, California Chardonnay started to grow bigger and bolder with ever-increasing doses of oak, alcohol levels and ripe tropical fruit, in many cases resulting in wines that are better on their own than with food.

Given Chardonnay’s pliability, there are a number of factors which contribute heavily to the resulting style of wine.  In addition to the terroir, utilization of oak and malolactic fermentation mentioned above, whether fermentation temperature, the wine undergoes [initial] fermentation in oak barrels or stainless steel tanks and whether the wine “ages on the lees”.  These tools have contributed to one of Chardonnay’s monikers – the “Winemaker’s Grape”.  Other aspects include the type of yeast used, harvesting time and other common factors in winemakers, all of which have a substantial impact on a grape as malleable as Chardonnay.  It is Chardonnay’s malleability that results in a lack of varietal characteristic, akin to Gewürztraminer’s spicy and lychees notes, Sauvignon Blanc’s cut-grass (or “Cat’s Pee”) characteristics or Viognier’s aromatic nose.

Despite its prominence today as one of the world’s noblest grapes, for a long time folks were unaware of its prominence among a number of the world’s best white wines given France’s custom of labeling wines by region and not varietal.  As with many other aspects of the ever-so-slightly snobbish wine world, Chardonnay’s ascending recognition and surging popularity (somewhat driven by its success in the Judgment of Paris) led to an increase in varietal labeling and Chardonnay was one of the biggest beneficiaries during the 1980s and 1990s (due in part to the ease of pronouncing its name) during which time it became more of a “brand” than varietal.  Much of this was cheap wine that contained some residual sugar to accommodate American’s sweeter taste preferences and was aged with oak chips instead of the more expensive oak barrels winemakers purported to use.

This surging popularity created some serious backlash among the cognoscenti, resulting in the ABC movement mentioned above, coined by Frank Prial – the New York Time’s wine critic back in 1995.  As the wine world’s tastes continued to change and more red wine was consumed, Chardonnay started to fall from favor leaving many vinters and wineries with huge gluts of wine (which typically results in lower quality wines being produced, further exacerbating the downwards cycle).  Another reason for Chardonnay’s downfall was its association with globalization, with famous British wine writer Oz Clarke calling Chardonnay “that ruthless colonizer and destroyer of the world’s vineyards and the world’s palates” due to vinters tearing up many indigenous grapes to plant Chardonnay in response to growing world demand (the United States went from 1,000 acres of Chardonnay in the 1960s to nearly 100,000 in 2003).

Chardonnay was first planted in Israel in the 1980s with both Carmel and the Golan Heights Winery releasing Israel’s first quality varietal Chardonnay wines for the 1987 vintage.  While Sauvignon Blanc is more widely planted than Chardonnay, Chardonnay is still a very popular grape in Israel, although both take a major backseat to Cabernet Sauvignon and other red varietals.  Despite Israel’s location in the relatively hot Mediterranean Basin, perfectly suited for the constant consumption of crisply refreshing white wines, it is only in the last few years that Israelis have started to enjoy and consume white wines en masse, resulting in a ascertainable qualitative increase which bodes well for future releases.  That said, Israel has been producing a few top-tier Chardonnay wines for many years including the “C” from Domaine du Castel and two of my favorites wines from the Golan Heights Winery’s Yarden Series – the Single Vineyard Organic Odem Chardonnay and the impeccable Blanc de Blanc, certainly Israel’s finest sparkling wine.

For this week’s newsletter, I have included some tasting notes of a number of Chardonnay wines I recently enjoyed and hope you will as well.

Bazelet HaGolan, Chardonnay, 2011:  Only 933 bottles of this 100% Chardonnay were made.  It spent nine months in oak which helped to grant it many of the traditional Chardonnay toasty and other notes.  A bright nose of green apple, pineapple, white peaches, toasty oak, vanilla and some minerals is followed through on a medium bodied palate of tropical fruit, melon, stone fruit, more toasty wood, vanilla and chalky minerals; all balanced by good acidity that keeps the oak at bay and the fruit honest.  Rich, round and mouthfilling with a discernible, but in no way overpowering, oaky presence.  A medium finish rounds out this refreshing wine.  Drink now through 2014.

Bravdo, Chardonnay, 2012:  A successful follow up to the delicious 2011 vintage, this wine was in oak barrels through malolactic fermentation before being removed to develop in stainless steel tanks.  A delightfully aromatic nose of tropical fruit, tart apple, pear, plenty of citrus and some viscous minerality is backed up by a subtle hint of spicy oak.  A medium bodied palate has plenty of fruit and citrus with good acidity keeping the wine lively and leading into a lingering finish of citrus and a pleasing hint of bitterness.  Drinking beautifully now and for the next 12-18 months.

Carmel, Appellation, Chardonnay, 2011:  Reflective of Carmel’s ongoing trend toward subtlety, only 50% of this years wine spent six months in oak (down from 75% for the 2010 vintage) resulting a nice, medium bodied and refreshing wine, providing good value, similar to many of the other wines in this series.  The wine has a nice nose of green apple, melon and guava, along with slightly toasty notes of oak, a hint of butter and good acidity which keeps the wine light and refreshing while providing sufficient complexity to pique one’s interest.

Castel, “C” Chardonnay, 2011:  On first attack the nose is heavy on the smoky oak which slightly obscures the generous fruit notes beneath, but give this wine some time to open up and the oak recedes revealing a bright nose of apple, tropical fruits, melon, bright citrus and minerals that follow through onto an elegant and well-balanced medium bodied palate of more tropical fruit, lemon zest, toasty oak, some flinty minerals and a classy and lingering finish laced with minerals.

Covenant, Lavan, Chardonnay, 2011:  Starting with the 2011 vintage, Covenant started switched vineyards to one located in the Sonoma Mountains called Scopus.  After discovering the vineyard during the 2010 vintage during which Jeff made wine for the vineyard’s owners as a side project, he decided to acquire the grapes for inclusion in Covenant’s Lavan to great effect.  A nicely aromatic nose of stone fruit, tart apple, citrus is buoyed by good mineral streak much of which follows onto the medium bodied palate with some toasty oak from the 12 months in oak (40% new).  Crisper and somewhat leaner than the delicious 2010, this wine is more to my personal preference while maintaining Covenant’s characteristic Lavan traits.  Drink now through 2015.

Ella Valley, Chardonnay, 2011:  Together with the previously released 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, this is one of the first wines released by Ella Valley’s new winemaker – Lin Gold and definitely reflective of a slightly more New World approach than her predecessor while retaining the elegance and style I have loved for so long.  A rich nose of stone fruit, apricot, Mayer lemon and some toasty oak (from the 12 months in barrels) leads onto a rich and round medium to full bodied palate with more rich fruit, honeysuckle, fig, flinty minerals and a subtle hand of oak that provides ample backbone for the vibrant fruit and good acidity.  Elegant and delicious.  Drink now through 2014, maybe longer.  As an aside, I recently tasted the 2008 vintage of this wine which had matured beautifully and was a pleasure to drink, showing that there are a number of Israeli Chardonnay wines with real aging ability that are sometimes worth the wait.

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Odem Organic Vineyard, Chardonnay, 2011:  This wine has long been one of my favorites and is a YH Best Buy to boot, year after year.  A rich nose of tart green apples, pineapple and a hint of melon accompanied by heavy notes of toasty oak reflective of the seven months the wine spent in barrels and which need some time in the glass to recede into the background.  More smoky oak, delicious tropical fruit and some notes of warm spices follow onto a medium to full bodied palate with hints butterscotch and a pleasing salinity that nicely counters the ripe fruit.  Simply a delicious wine.

Tzora, Neve Ilan, Blanc, 2011:  Easily one of Israel’s most interesting and quality Chardonnay wines, this 100% Chardonnay was partially aged in French oak for nine months Sur-Lie, providing it with great structure and near-perfect balance to the fresh pineapple, apple, pear, brioche and steely minerals on the nose and medium-bodied palate.  Great acidity and an elegant structure maintain Tzora’s stylistic approach and make this a wine I intend to consume all summer long (and well into the winter as well).

Yaffo, Chardonnay, 2012:  A nice nose of guava, melon, pineapple all accompanied by a light overlay of oak on the nose and palate with a nice streak of slightly bitter minerals on the medium bodied palate with more fruit, pear and hints of oak, all of which is kept fresh by a good jolt of bracing acidity.  A round and mouth-filling wine that pleases.

Best of Twitter – Archives #13 (May 2013)

June 19, 2013



May 27th – June 2nd

Wine Folly covers the world’s six oldest wineries and Wine Spectator shows us how far back you need to go to discover the origin of winemaking. Carmel’s 120 harvests are nowhere to be seen…

Apparently Bordeaux winemakers have been pulling wool over en primeur buyers for years. The wine press is strangely ambivalent.

The Wine Curmudgeon has some choice words for Robert Parker. Alice Feiring would be proud. Table To Grave chimes in with some hilarious Parker-bashing of his own.

W. Blake Gray has some great tips on getting the most out of your sommelier.

May 20th – May 26th

Apparently the 1855 Classification is the antithesis of French Hypocrisy.

The Drinks Business discovers the benefits of oaking Champagne.

After years of mocking the Chinese mixing wine and Cola, apparently they were onto something…

Justifiably nominated for multiple blogger awards, HoseMaster takes ’em all to task resulting in his usual hilarity.

Dealing a severe blow to romantic-loving winos everywhere, the Huffington Post clarifies that winery’s are simply farms.

Dr. Vinny clarifies the meaning behind “produced/bottled by”.

May 13th – May 19th

Not surprisingly, Parker [vehemently] disagrees with the concept of “Parkerisation”.

Fascinating article about the “good old days” when terroir was a dirty word.

Continuing her great “wine guide” series, @WineFolly delves into Chardonnay.

Tim Atkins pens an obituary for the wine snob parasite.

An Ode to Maderia from Jameson Fink.

12×75 takes on the [outright lies] fanciful descriptors wineries include on the back labels.

With the onset of warmer weather and Shavuot on the horizon, Adam M. pushes white wines and some great cheese pairings.

May 6th – May 12th

With the acidic dressing and green veggies making pairing notoriously difficult, Meg Maker has a few wine & salad pairing suggestions.

With less than 200 certified world-wide, becoming a Master Sommelier is v-e-r-y difficult.

While the coloration to global warming remains debatable, wine is getting “boozier”.

CNN has the scoop on how Cathy Pacific selects thier wines.

Lettie Teague sheds some light on what winemaking consultants really do.

Jamie Goode visits Israel where Na’ama Sorkin squires him around and introduces him to many interesting Israeli wines.

Lueria Winery

June 18, 2013

#248 – May 29, 2013

For many years the patriarch of the Sayada family – Yosef, tended his family-owned vineyards in the Upper Galilee (located on the foothills of Mount Meron) and sold the resulting high-quality fruit to multiple high-end and prestigious wineries around the country who then utilized the grapes for some of their best wines.  A true “salt of the earth” farmer to his core, Yosef tends to the vines with an extremely high level of attentiveness and meticulous care that is coupled with an innovative spirit, together which continue to yield grapes of the highest quality.  After years of watching the family grapes earn accolades and prestigious awards in the hands of other winemakers, Yosef’s son Gidi, decided it was time that the family launched its own winery.  Named for the famous Kabbalistic rabbi, Rabbi Yitzchak Lueria – a famous rabbi who lived in the mid-16th century and was better known as the holy Ari (an acronym of his full name) and whose tomb overlooks the vineyards.  Following completion of his mandatory service in the Israel army Gidi began studying wine making in Israel (including under Tal Pelter who is himself a customer of Lueria’s grapes for his own acclaimed (non-kosher) winery) and launched the Lueria Winery in 2006.  While continuing his studies, Gidi is also assisted by winemaking consultant Itai Lahat, formerly of Barkan Winery.  As with a number of new boutique wineries, the wine was initially made in the facilities of the Or HaGanuz winery and only recently relocated to Safsufa, its permanent home.

Recent years have seen the Sayada family significantly ramp up production from 20,000 bottles in 2010 to 40,000 bottles in 2011 and an expected 50,000 bottles for the 2012 vintage.  Despite this increased production, nearly 80% of the family’s grapes are still sold to other wineries, leaving plenty of potential for growth should the family desire to continue to expand.  That said, one can only assume that Gidi gets “first dibs” on the best of the vintage for Lueria’s own wines.  As would be expected from one who grew up among the vines soaking up a sincere love of the land and professionalism from his father, Gidi is very passionate about his work and while he has plenty of grandiose plans for the future of the winery, he hasn’t allowed his focus to stray from winemaking at a high level.  Instead of sticking with the well-tread path of many new wineries and producing tried and true Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, Lueria primarily produces primarily blends (including a Sangiovese-based version), and a number of more offbeat wines including two versions of Gewürztraminer (one dry and other off-dry) and a Cabernet Sauvignon dessert wine made in “Icewine style”.  An interesting path as opposed to other Israeli wineries who stray from the tried and true and focus on finding the elusive indigenous-like Mediterranean grape like Carignan, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and of course, Cabernet Franc.

The winery produces a number of wines across a multitude of labels as follows: the “flagship” wine is the Grand Vital – a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Shiraz (20%) and Merlot (10%) of which 2008 is the current vintage.  Next come a slew of blends including Rosso which spends approximately 18 months in oak and is comprised of 70% Sangiovese and Barbera, with other varietals changing annually (this year’s version is rounded out with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon).  There is a new wine named Terrace, which spent 12 months in oak and should be released around Rosh Hashanah time (comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Cabernet Franc) and an entry-level blend – Inon, which spent six months in oak and is comprised of the same varietals as the Terrace, just in different proportions.  In addition to the two Gewürztraminer wines listed above, Lueria also produced a Rosé (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese), a varietal (100%) Chardonnay and the aforementioned dessert wine.  The dry Gewürztraminer, Rosé and Chardonnay required some extra effort to track down so thank you DR, GG and AB respectively for helping out on that front!

In addition to the oenophilic endeavors of grape-growing and wine making, the family is involved in a number of tourist-related activities in the area including a lovely bed and breakfast that was recently completed (complete with a full-service tasting room) and plans for a massive visitor center to be situated on a small, man-made pond located just outside Safsufa, where the family (and the winery) reside.

I have included a number of Lueria’s wines that I have tasted and enjoyed recently, most of which are now available in the United States and all of which (other than the dry Gewürztraminer) are available in Israel and worth seeking out.

Lueria, Gewürztraminer (off-dry), 2012: Recent years have seen a slight proliferation of dry (or semi-dry) versions of the grape with two notable versions being the 2011 offerings from Binyamina and Lueria – both enjoyable and worthy first attempts by both wineries.  Following on the success of the 2011 vintage, the 2012 wine is a semi-dry medium bodied wine made from 100% free-run Gewürztraminer grapes with plenty of white peaches, some tropical fruit, traditional lychee, floral notes and a pleasing hint of spiciness along with a pleasing bitter citrus notes with much of the same of the same on the light to medium bodied palate loaded with bracing acidity with a nice touch of residual sugar and 12.5% alcohol.  Highly recommended as a refreshing quencher and will come in handy as soon as the bitter cold New York is currently experiencing fades into distant memory and springs makes an appearance.  Drink over the next 12 months or so.

Lueria, Rosé, 2012:  With Israel’s warm weather taking up the bulk of the year, it’s pretty surprising that it has taken this long for Rosé to really catch on.  In any event, I am quite happy to add another wine to my potential portfolio of Rosé wines.  A lovely and refreshing medium bodied wine with plenty of bright red fruit on the nose and palate, including cherries, strawberries, a bit of tart raspberries and plenty of floral notes, with rosewater dominating as well.  Crisp and refreshing with nice acidity keeps things lively and decently priced as well.  Despite a tad more sweetness than I prefer, this is a nice wine that is well worth trying.

Lueria, Icewine, 2011:  Despite the late Rogov’s rant against Israeli dessert wines, I am a sucker for them and will usually pick up a bottle to try, regardless of their perceived quality.  While not necessarily a wine I would drink on a regular basis, Lueria’s version, made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and frozen at the winery is a nice effort that is reflective of Gidi’s careful winemaking.  Nice candied red fruit on both the nose and palate, together with floral notes, a bit of minerals and some dried fruits, combine for a pleasing experience.  As with many Israeli dessert (and other) wines, the acidity is a bit lacking and it comes through mid-palate.  With 16% alcohol and generous sweetness, you need to watch yourself and be careful not to drink too much of this wine.

Lueria, Terrace, 2011 (advance tasting):  A new blend of approximately 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc with some Shiraz thrown in for good measure.  The wine spent 12 months in a mix of new and used oak and should be shipping to the US within a week or two (expected release in Israel is around Rosh Hashanah time).  At the time of my tasting a few months ago, the wine had good structure but felt like it needed some additional time for the various components to come together smoothly.  Nice black and red forest fruit on both the nose and palate with some toasty oak and eucalyptus combining with Lueria’s characteristic graphite and tobacco leaf.  A medium finish of more toasty oak, cedar and minty chocolate rounds out this wine.  Give the wine six months before enjoying through 2015, maybe longer.

Lueria, Chardonnay, 2011:  Made in a specially-made new oak barrel of 1000 liters which automatically rotates once a week allowing the wine to ferment without any human intervention (and added oxygenation) where is spent about 12 months.  A medium bodied and oaked Chardonnay with plenty of tropical fruit on the nose and palate including pineapple, grapefruit, guava and some stone fruit, together with dominate notes of butter, toasty oak and a hint of cigar box which continues onto the medium bodied palate which is backed by a solid dose of acidity which keeps the oak and heavy fruit from falling flat.  Let this wine warm up a bit in the glass which will let the oak settle down and allow you to enjoy the harmonious balance the various parts have.  A well-made and refreshing wine.  Drink now through 2014.

Lueria, Rosso, 2010: The standard blending components of this wine is 70% Barbera and Sangiovese with other varietals rounding out the remaining 30%.  This year’s version is comprised of Sangiovese (50%), Barbera (20%), Shiraz (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), which Gidi compares to an Israeli Super-Tuscan.  Medium bodied with mostly black fruit on the nose (accompanied by some raspberries, dried cherries and plums) accompanied by characteristic (for the winery) graphite and tobacco leaf with good balancing acidity and fine balance with the wood (unlike the Grand Vital, the 18 months in French oak (2/3 used and 1/3 new) is not noticeable).  A streak of slightly bitter green notes runs through the wine, adding a bite of character and bite, although it might not be to everyone’s taste.  With relatively (for Israel) low 13.5% alcohol, this wine is actually quite refreshing and can be enjoyed through the hot summer months.

Lueria, Grand Vital, 2008:  A blend of Lueria’s finest grapes, carefully selected by Gidi, this vintage is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (20%) and Shiraz (10%) with a sense of purpose and elegance about it that seems to have finally come into its own.  Like a number of other wineries, Lueria (whether inadvertently or not) tends to tier its wines depending on how long they spent in oak.  As would befit the wineries flagship, the 2008 Grand Vital spend almost two years in French oak, which is slightly more noticeable like I would have liked but provides a supple backbone for the full bodied wine.  Plenty of near-candied like crushed ripe black forest fruit on the nose, together with currants, cherries, raspberries and a hint of plum is accompanied by sweet cedar and tobacco leaf, lightly-roasted espresso and saddle leather with much of the same on the palate, with well-integrated tannins and fruit and oak seemingly fighting for dominance at first before settling down and allowing the earthy notes to provide a nice addition and depth to this rich wine.  Some high-quality dark chocolate, earthy forest and near-sweet tannins round out this wine all leading into a lingering and caressing finish.  An elegant and well-made wine which is drinking nicely now, the wine needs a bit of airing out before enjoying and should cellar nicely through 2015, maybe longer (Shmittah).

Best of Twitter – Archives #12 (April 2013)

May 13, 2013



April 22nd – May 5th

Tom Wark defends the importance of wine writing.

Wine Spectator explores whether “sulfite-free” wine actually exists.

In her clear and refreshing style, Wine Folly presents a primer on making how white wine is made.

With more & more quality popular-priced wines, should we continue to be “forgiving” of their flaws?

Tim Hanni has some pretty strong views on food & wine pairings. My own thoughts on the surprisingly touchy topic.

Tasting wine blind has its negative aspects and detractors.

Chris Kassel has some choice words for the critics of wine critics.

While “Milk & Cookies” might have been the bomb growing up, it’s time to graduate to Wine & Cookie pairings!

April 15th – April 21st

With summer salads on the horizon, Will Lyons’ salad and wine pairing suggestions come just in time!

Wine hangovers got you down? Wine Folly has you covered!

In light of Malbec’s burgeoning popularity, @drvino has a quick history of Malbec.

Despite wine writer’s best intentions, drinking windows (like scores) aren’t an exact science. Steve Heimoff explains.

Ask three wine writers what they mean by “minerality” and you will get at least four answers. PinotFile attempts to set the record straight.

With all the recent Celebrity Wine ruckus, a blind tasting was conducted with interesting results.

Apparently people are baffled by wine writing…

April 8th – April 14th

Tannins are one of the most important parts of wine. Wine Folly explains what all the hoopla is about.

Israel’s Golan Heights Winery celebrates 30 years of winemaking innovation and excellence.

Jamie Goode tackles the mysteries of soil & wine (Part I). The rest of the series: Part II, Part III, Part IV & Part V.

In this week’s edition, Wine Folly covers winemaking’s Holy Grail – the ethereal Pinot Noir.

Lifehacker takes on wine and challenges the ability to taste good wine from bad.

Keith Levenberg takes on the [ridiculous] tasting note.

With all the recent bashing of wine writing, Tim Atkin rises to the defense of real wine journalism.

April 1st – April 7th

Tom Wark discussed Brett’s new lease on life.

Think you know Bordeaux? Wine Spectator has a quiz for you.

Despite being UK-based and exhibiting her massive wine prowess, Jancis Robinson discusses American wine.

Malbec

April 25, 2013

#246 – 4/25/2013

I have spent a significant amount of time in these newsletters discussing the various trends the Israeli wine industry in undergoing, most recently in my end of 2012 newsletters, covering the past and the future of the Israeli wine industry.  Among these trends is utilization of different varietals at different points during Israel’s nearly 3000 year-old history of winemaking.  As a general matter, when I think of the different varietals produced in Israel during its more recent winemaking years, I place them into four different buckets (as with most musings, this isn’t an exact science and there plenty of overlaps).  Interestingly enough, the four buckets more-or-less coincide with four different stages in the evolution of Israel’s wine industry.

The first bucket includes the wines that combined to give Israeli wine a terrible name for so long.  This includes Kiddush (or sacramental) wine and the flabby, low acid wines made from high-yield Carignan (nothing like the quality versions I recommend here often), Concord, Chenin Blanc, Sémillon and other gems which were widely planted throughout Israel for years.  The second includes the classic Bordeaux varietals that were the catalyst for the launch of Israel’s wine revolution, as Israeli winemakers’ copied the success of their French counterparts with top-tier versions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.  The third bucket includes the varietals that were forerunners to a real turning point for Israel – Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Carignan, along with Grenache, Mourvèdre and Chenin Blanc.  These varietals started getting serious love from Israeli winemakers in the last decade as the Israeli wine industry grappled with the problem of having Israeli wines marketed worldwide as Israeli instead of being banished to the corner under the “kosher” designation.  With a desire to find “Israel’s varietal” came a wave of experimentation and innovation that fueled this third bucket and gave rise to the fourth – the experiments.  As would be expected in a country built on innovation and chutzpa, the winemaking industry is no different, and winemakers across the country are constantly experimenting with successful and less successful varietals from around the world.  This fourth bucket includes well-known varietals such as Malbec, Sangiovese and Barbera and other, less known ones including Pinotage and Touriga Nacional.  The grapes are utilized in a host of ways and are bottled as single varietals, added to other wines to create better blends and are made into dessert wines in a host of methods including Port-style, late harvest and even icewine-style wines.

The topic of this week’s newsletter – Malbec, falls squarely into the fourth bucket of experimentation.  Despite its surging popularity and recent conquest of Argentina, there is relatively little Malbec being produced in Israel and nearly all Israeli Malbec wines are very recent additions to their respective winery’s portfolios (although, along with many other varietals, as the experimentation takes off, we are seeing it more and more).  That said, traditional Israeli chutzpa basically requires that some entrepreneurial winemakers try their hand at creating terrific Malbec from some of Israel’s best terroir, and with some succeeding quite nicely (both on a mass commercial level and with smaller batch delights) – the need for this newsletter was born.

Originally from Cahors, an interior region in the south of France, Malbec has a long history of being turned into quality wine; harkening back to the days of ancient Rome.  During the Middle Ages, this inky grape was the base of wines so dark they were known as “black wines”.  Over the years, substantial acreage across the region was planted with Malbec (locally referred to as “Côt”, “Côt Noir” or “Auxerrois”).  However, during the replanting in France which followed the phylloxera blight of the late 19th century that devastated most of Europe’s vineyards, (including most of France’s Malbec vines), Malbec wasn’t planted in the same quantity as before.  Compounding the issue, following a devastating frost in 1956 after which even less Malbec was replanted, Malbec’s prominence among France’s vineyard was further diminished (its susceptibility to disease exacerbated its losing ground to Cabernet Franc and Merlot as a primary Bordeaux blending agent).  The primary exclusion to this rule was Cahors, where Malbec was replanted in even greater quantities than before, both following the phylloxera blight and the killer frost.

For many years, Malbec’s primary role was as a blending agent in Bordeaux blends and other wines, its deep color, robust tannin and rich violet and plum-like flavors bringing some added “oomph” and complexity to the primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wines.  As Argentina’s success with the grape grew (see below), Cahors winemakers piggybacked on that success and started to make more single-varietal Malbec wines from the grapes historical birthplace (Cahor is a recognized AOC and requires a minimum of 70% to be designated Cahors).  Despite its robust appearance and deep flavors, the Malbec grape is actually a bit of a weakling (not a big surprise, given its history above), highly susceptible to many grape diseases including frost and mildew.  Further complicating one’s ability to produce high-quality Malbec wine, Malbec is a high-yielding grape, which usually results in lower intensity and aging ability, among other things.  As a result, excessive care must be taken in the vineyards to ensure the grapes’ survival and quality.

Despite having “migrated” to Argentina in the mid-19th century, its wasn’t until the late 1990’s that Argentinian winemakers began experimenting with quality Malbec wines, which experimentation ultimately resulted in the plush and plummy style of Malbec with mass appeal that rapidly overtook much of the world (seemingly stepping into what was previously Merlot’s position in the mass-market wine-guzzling, world), with the Mendoza region being recognized as Argentina’s premier Malbec-growing region.  Argentina’s Malbec is different from the French clones, growing in smaller clusters and producing smaller berries.  The flavor profile is also different, with Argentinian Malbec less tannic than its original French counterparts and presenting with lush mouth feel, redolent of ripe fruit flavors, resulting in an easy to drink wine that retains serious aging abilities.  Argentina’s recent success with the grape has resulted in a surge of popularity for the grape with winemakers from around the world planting Malbec in the hope of capitalizing on Argentina’s success.  These countries include the United States, where Malbec has been grown for 100 years (although until 20 years ago it was primarily used as a blending agent for “jug wine”), Chile (Argentina’s neighbor which produces more tannic and less popular versions of the wine), Italy and most recently Israel.

Despite the fact that much of Israel’s grape-growing regions have limestone soil, which is well-suited to Malbec, and the hot temperature protects Malbec from natural enemies like frost and mildew, there is still very little varietal Malbec being produced in Israel (only a few wineries utilize it in blends – the Castel Grand Vin being one example).  That said, as the fourth stage of Israeli winemaking experimentation continues to progress, we will likely see some slight increases in the number of wineries producing this temperamental grape, but it will likely still remain a niche play among a select group of winemakers.

For this week’s newsletter I have included tasting notes for a number of Israeli Malbecs (plus the sole quality kosher Argentinian option).  I recently tasted a number of Argentinian kosher Malbec wines that are not imported into the US (thank you GJ!), but they were unfortunately not up to par and I understand that, as with many other wine producing countries, the best kosher versions are exported to the United States, in many a case – 100% exported.  The Argentinian Flechas and Israeli Tishbi are easily available in the United States, while the Herzberg and Ramot Naftaly versions are only available in Israel (while Ramot Naftaly has recently been imported into the US, the imported portfolio doesn’t include the Malbec or their other top wines – the Barbera and Petit Verdot).

Three additional Malbecs that should be released soon include versions from the Golan Heights Winery (recent rumor), Gvaot and New York’s own City Winery.  I have only tasted the City Winery version which is delightful.  While I have not yet tasted the other two, given the track records of both the Golan Heights Winery and Gvaot, both are wines I am very much looking forward too – so stay tuned!

Flechas de los Andes, Gran Malbec, 2009:  If there was ever a classic BBQ wine with style, this is it.  The wine is the result of a successful partnership between Baron Rothschild and Laurent Dassault of Bordeaux fame and this third vintage of the wine is by far its most successful yet.  A wine that goes down easy but provides sufficient complexity to make it a crowd pleaser even for a “mixed crowd” (i.e. oenophile and non-wine enthusiasts).  A medium to full bodied wine with plush black fruit, grilled meat, tar, good bittersweet chocolate, rich espresso, pencil shavings and toasty oak on both the nose and palate.  A somewhat viscous wine that has a lot of perceived sweetness to it, from the fruit (think sweet blueberries picked and eaten straight off the bush on a hot August day and ripe figs), hints of caramel, lavender and “sweet” spices like cinnamon and nutmeg along with a hint of eucalyptus, all leading into a lingering finish of more sweet fruit with a pleasant spiciness.  Drinking really well now and meant to accompany a good hunk of meat (although it needs a decent amount of time in your glass or decanter to open up), this wine should cellar nicely until 2015.

Herzberg, Coteaux de Sitrya, Malbec, 2009:  I first tasted this wine a few years ago when I had it brought in especially for Sensi’s gala to benefit Meir Panim and really liked it.  Besides being a novelty (the only other Malbec was Teperberg’s inaugural 2007 version), the wine was delicious.  A nice nose of raspberries and red plums, some currants, sour cherries and some toasty oak.  A medium to full-bodied palate with plenty more red fruit, toasty oak, cedar, tobacco leaf, some minerals and mouth-coating tannin that brings everything together quite nicely, all leading into a caressing and lingering finish with more oak, roasted espresso and some sour cherries.  Drink now or over the next 12 months or so.  I also heard that Herzberg made a 100% Malbec Rosé in 2012 but have not tasted it yet (thanks DR).

Ramot Naftaly, Malbec, 2011 (advance tasting):  I wrote about Ramot Naftaly two years ago after enjoying them for the first time at the Sommelier Expo but didn’t get to experience their unique Malbec until after I had returned to the US.  I have since enjoyed the 2009, 2010 and the current, 2011, versions, all of which have been delightfully unique (both among themselves and in comparison to the other Israeli Malbec wines on the market).  While I typically don’t write about wines until they have been released (and I have tasted the released version), the 2010 vintage of this wine is completely sold out and tough to find making the 2011 the “current” version.  As I really enjoyed it, I felt it should be included here.  A nice nose of red fruit, currents and violets are tempered by some bramble and smoky oak lending depth and a hint of complexity.  A medium to full bodied palate has raspberries, cherries, currant and more bramble, wrapped in smoky notes of grilled meat, cigar box and some graphite, along with a nice dose of minerality and a touch of anise leading into a velvety finish of minerals, some fruit and more smoky oak.  Drink six months following release through 2016.

Teperberg, Terra, Malbec, 2009:  I enjoyed the inaugural 2007 vintage of this wine, which is traditionally not the easiest to grow; very few Israeli wineries make single varietal versions.  The 2009 vintage is just another indicator of the continuing improvement of this winery.  A full-bodied wine packed with mouth-watering acidity that makes for good food pairing, balanced with bright notes of black cherries, blackberries and notes of juicy plums on the nose and palate together with grilled meat, a slight hint of toasty & spicy oak, slightly saline minerals and some warm spices with a touch of Mediterranean herbs, leading into a medium to long finish with hints of chocolate, espresso and vanilla layered with more fruit.  A YH Best Buy that is delightful to drink now and which should cellar nicely through 2014, maybe longer.

Teperberg, Terra, Malbec, 2011:  The 2010 vintage is currently on the shelves but I recommend waiting for the 2011 version which is substantially better and an improvement on the 2009 vintage above which was the best Malbec Teperberg made, prior to the 2011 vintage.  An aromatic nose with more floral and lavender notes than the 2009 (or 2010) but with much of the same blackberries and plums, together with smoky oak, black pepper and cloves.  A full bodied and juicy palate with plenty of black fruit, spicy oak, caressing tanning that need time to integrate and chocolate are all held together in great balance.  The wine has a welcome higher dose of acidity than prior vintages keeping the fruit and oak alive on the palate and boding well for this wines future.  I’d wait 3-6 months before opening and then enjoy thorough 2016.

Tishbi, Estate, Single Vineyard, Malbec, 2009:  I first tasted this wine at the Sommelier Expo back in November 2011 and it has recently hit retail stores in the US.  The wine has a ripe nose of red and black fruits including ripe cherries and raspberries, a hint of blueberry, grilled meat, freshly paved asphalt, wet forest floor, sweet cedar and a substantial amount toasty oak that seems a bit off kilter at times and a little overpowering.  The full bodied palate has much of the same with some typical lavender and floral notes added to the mix, along with substantial tannins and some sweet cedar.  The palate is kept together nicely with good acidity and integrating tannins, all leading into a medium finish with more of the sweetish fruit and smoky oak accompanied by cigar box and a hint of vanilla.  A nice wine (although I have seen some bottle variation so be wary) that many wine aficionados rave about and others cannot stand – certainly one of the more polarizing wines I have encountered recently.  I am less enamored with it than others but it is still a good wine, worth trying and indicative of the recent improvements the winery is undergoing.

Flam Winery

April 18, 2013



#245 – April 17, 2013

After some delightful time off with my family for Pesach, with this week’s newsletter, we get back into the swing of things with a discussion of one of Israel’s most prestigious wineries – the Flam Winery.  Together with Saslove and Tulip, Flam was part of the trifecta of near-mythical Israeli boutique wineries that became kosher with the 2010 vintage.  While the entry level wines of Flam (which include the Rose, Blanc and Classico) have been available for two vintages already, it is only recently that the much anticipated Reserve wines became available in the United States.  Unfortunately, we are still nearly two years away from enjoying Flam’s new flagship wine – the exquisite Noble (more on that below).

Founded in 1998 and located in a quaint facility and picturesque area just outside Beit Shemesh, Flam is a true family winery, with every member taking part in its operation.  While the country is loaded with commercial wineries of all sizes, many of which are world-class and produce quality wines that would satisfy the criteria of even the most discerning wine lover, I feel that there is something to be said about family-owned wineries, where each member is truly invested in maintaining and improving the family’s honor, legacy and heritage.

The winery was founded by the Flam brothers – Golan and Gilad, with Golan, who was educated in Israel and Italy and apprenticed in wineries in both Tuscany and Australia acting as winemaker, and Gilad who manages business development and strategy.  Their mother Kami manages the winery and their sister Gefen is in charge of customer relations and marketing.  It is worth noting however, that the love of wine coursing through this family’s veins is undoubtedly driven by the passion and vinographic history of the winery’s “ace in the hole” – Flam Patriarch Yisrael Flam who consults, advises, helps out and kibbitzes.

For anyone involved in the Israeli wine industry, Yisrael needs no introduction, having spent more than 40 years working to improve the Israeli wine industry and one of the, if not the, principal wine figure in Israel.  Yisrael’s family moved to Israel from Russia in the aftermath of World War II and he joined the fledgling Israel Wine Institute after serving his time in the army.  Pioneering what is now de rigueur for any aspiring Israeli winemaker, Yisrael underwent training at UC Davis’ acclaimed Department of Oenology and Viticulture before returning to work at the Carmel Winery, ultimately becoming their Chief Winemaker in 1995, a position he held for a decade before retiring and joining his sons in their endeavor as a consultant.

Having “worked” in the vineyards alongside his father since he was a child and Yisrael was at UC Davis, winemaking is in Gilad’s blood and, quite obviously so.  Care and precision are two mainstays for Golan in his work and, as with all good wines, the work starts in the meticulously cultivated vineyards, which include plots in the acclaimed Upper Galilee vineyards of Dishon and Ben-Zimra as well as Mata in the Judean Hills.  The family spent a substantial amount of time sourcing their vineyards (which are all under long-term leases), meticulously choosing the best they found.  Golan spends an inordinate amount of time amongst the vines, pruning, thinning and otherwise caring for them, ensuring that the resulting grapes will truly honor the well-respected and hard earned Flam name.

Pre-2010, the winery produced six different wines in three different tiers.  The entry-level wines included a Rosé (predominantly and sometimes entirely, Cabernet Franc), Blanc – a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and Classico – the winery’s entry level blend Bordeaux blend (comprised primarily of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (with some vintages including small quantities of Petit Verdot and/or Cabernet Franc).  Despite the Classico being Flam’s entry level wine, it is far superior to most other “entry-level” wines in quality and its price reflects this.  The next tier was the Superiore, a Syrah-based blend, followed by the Reserve line which included three varietal wines – Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (the majority of which contain small percentages of other varietals in most vintages).  Together with becoming kosher, the 2010 vintage was also the end of the Superiore wine, as Golan decided that the vineyards utilized for that wine had finally matured enough, and were of sufficient quality to qualify for the Reserve Syrah.  While I have not tasted the non-kosher Superiore, the facts prove Golan’s decision was the right one, as the 2010 Reserve Syrah is delicious.

Additionally, last year Flam finally added a flagship wine to its portfolio – Noble, whose name (and inception) was inspired by the famous Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine from Tuscany, one of Italy’s oldest wines.  The Noble is a Bordeaux blend comprised of the best grapes in Flam’s vineyards each year, which spend nearly two years in oak (one year in new French oak as separate components and another as the final blend) and the two more years of bottle aging in Flam’s cellar before release.  The inaugural (and non-kosher) version was the 2008 vintage and 2010 (and first kosher) vintage of Noble should be released in mid-2014.  Surprisingly for me – an avid Syrah lover, I found the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon to be the best of the released wines I tasted and quite possibly one of Israel’s best Cabernet Sauvignon wines (with nearly two years of bottle aging ahead of the Noble, the jury is still out but see my tasting note below).

With production comfortably around 100,000 bottles annually (which is the “magic” number at which a winery “needs” to obtain kosher certification in order to remain financially viable), Flam has been and remains one of Israel’s absolute best wineries.  Besides the exceptional wines and the bastion of Israeli winemaking knowledge of Yisrael, there are a few core traits that make Flam the special (and beloved) winery that it is.  First, the passion they convey for their profession and the uncommon humility expressed by both Golan and Gilad is rare and refreshing.  They love what they do, do it at an extremely high level and don’t allow their egos to balloon to epic proportions like some other folks in the industry.  Indicative of the humility and quiet pride in their wines is the fact that it took ten years before they felt they understood their vineyards, grapes and winemaking process sufficiently to produce a flagship wine worthy of the Flam name.  Another way they differ from other top Israeli wineries is they have withstood the trend toward away from the Classic French varietals to more Mediterranean varietals including Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and others.  While I am a huge advocate of this trend, believing that Israel’s terroir is more suited to such varietals, Flam clearly knows what they are doing and it shows in the wines.

While all different, the wines have a clear and distinctive style that comfortably blends old-world / European winemaking with new world fruit and winemaking techniques, resulting in rich, deep and powerful wines that convey subtle elegance, a nice sense of place (a/k/a terroir), good potential for longevity and a hint of mystery.  The brothers also own and run a liquor import and distribution company which they started to hedge their bets on the winery (which was started against the recommendations of their father who didn’t think it was an easy money making endeavor, to say the least).  These days the importing company Hagafen, generates cash flow that helps ease the customary ups and downs many small wineries go through, enabling the family to focus on their mission – creating the best quality wines they can.

In any event, I highly recommend seeking out and trying their wines – you won’t be disappointed!

Flam, Rosé, 2012:  While the Reserve wines below are the first kosher ones available, we are already enjoying the third vintage of the delightful Flam Rosé, each of which has been highly enjoyable, albeit slightly different from vintage to vintage.  As Rosé becomes more and more popular, many Israeli wineries are dipping their toes (look for coming releases from Gvaot, Lueria and others and a sparkling Rosé from Yarden).  As with prior vintages, the wine is made from 100% Cabernet Franc from the Judean Hills (what’s not to love) which give this light to medium bodied wine some welcome bite, the nose is blessed with strawberry, melon, citrus peel, lavender, some bell pepper and other floral notes.  A fresh and refreshing palate of more strawberries, white stone fruit and pink grapefruit with great acidity and a hint of salinity and minerals combine to make a terrific, all-around wine and a perfect accompaniment to summer (or any other season for that matter – like Champagne, Rosé should be drunk much more often).  The only obstacle to my enjoying this wine on a daily basis is it’s relatively high ~$30 price tag, which places it in the same company as the exceptional Castel Rosé (both qualitatively and cost-wise).

Flam, Blanc, 2011:  During my delightful visit last year, I enjoyed a comparison tasting between the 2011 and 2012 Blanc wines (the 2012 was being bottled that day), with the more austere 2011 vintage more to my liking (I loved the 2012 as well and it is more of a “crowd-pleaser”).  As usual, the unoaked wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from the Judean Hills, with this year’s vintage comprised of 58% and 42% respectively.  As with the Rosé above, the wine provides a great “double-trigger” of characteristics; combining a crisp and refreshing quaffer with a more complex wine, likely a result of the weightier Chardonnay giving the Sauvignon Blanc a platform on which to shine.  As with every Flam wine, the impeccable balance and structure of the wine is highly evident, a result of the extreme winemaking care put into these wines.  A lovely nose of citrus, tropical fruit, green apple, melon and nice minerals.  A medium bodied palate with much of the same ripe fruit is fleshed out with some pleasing herbaceousness and bracing acidity that keeps the wine balanced and refreshing with a lingering finish that has a hint of pleasing bitterness to it.

Flam, Blanc, 2012:  As with prior vintages, the wine is a Sauvignon Blanc (55%) and Chardonnay (45%) from the Judean Hills, however this year’s blend yielded a fruitier and less acidic wine, that will likely appeal to a wider crowd.  A rich nose of tropical fruit, tart apples, citrus peel and stony minerals leads into a medium bodied palate of more tropical fruit, cantaloupe, a slightly bitter streak of minerals that pleases and a hint of citrus.  The biting bitterness continues on the lingering finish and rounds out this highly pleasurable and refreshing wine in which there is certainly more than meets the eye.  Stock up and enjoy all summer long.

Flam, Classico, 2011:  The Classic is Flam’s entry level red wine, containing mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with smaller quantities of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot blended in, mostly from the winery’s Judean Hills vineyards.  The wine is aged in French and American oak for ten months.  Of all the Flam wines, this is the one I drink the least for two primary reasons.  While having the same great balance and structure as the rest of the Flam family, the wine simply doesn’t excite the way the rest of the portfolio does.  At ~$30 in the US, there are other entry-level Bordeaux blends that do better.  That said, this is a really good wine that is simply slightly overpriced (hardly a rarity among Israeli boutique wineries) and is well worth trying.  Drink now through 2015.

Flam, Reserve, Syrah, 2010:  The first Reserve release for Flam and a wine that was well worth waiting for.  Made from Syrah grapes grown in the acclaimed Dishon and Kerem Ben-Zimra vineyards.  According to Golan, Dishon provides more floral notes while Kerem Ben-Zimra provides a “blacker” fruit profile.  Flam’s Syrah used to be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon for their intermediate “Superiore” label but the grapes have improved so much Golan felt they “deserved” to be in the Reserve label and I have to agree.  As with the other Reserve wines, it spent 12 months in oak and an additional ten months in the bottle prior to release (the Cabernet Sauvignon spends approximately 14 months in oak).  The wine has a rich nose of bright red fruit, with hints of blueberry, rich roasted meat, dark chocolate, smoke and freshly cracked black pepper.  A medium to full bodied palate has much of the same fruit profile with more black notes, pepper, roasted coffee grounds, plenty of spice and licorice bringing a haunting complexity that tantalizes.  A luxurious finish rounds out this treat.  As with every other Flam wine, the fruit and oak are very much in balance, with the oak providing strong support but not overpowering in any way.  A wine that can be slightly deceitful, alternating between fruit-loaded powerhouse and subtle elegance but always maintaining its composure and restraint.  Like some vintages of the Yatir Forest, this is truly an iron fist in velvet glove wine and one that is well worth stocking up on.  Drink now through 2018.

Flam, Reserve, Merlot, 2010:  As with the Cabernet Sauvignon wine below, this wine instantly became a competitor for Israel’s best Merlot wine, with a rich, deep and complex personality that makes you sit up and take notice (after saying wow quite a few times).  Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, all from the Dishon vineyard, the wine presents with a rich and extracted nose of black cherries, blackberries, cassis, a hint of blueberries, some bramble notes and spicy wood and warm spices that evolves as it warms up in your glass.  A full bodied palate provides much of the same fruit and spice, with wet earthy forest notes, graphite, cigar box and mouth-coating tannins that are already on their way to integrating and will provide support for this wine for years to come.  While enjoyable now, I’d give the wine six more months and then enjoy through 2017.

Flam, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010:  As with the newly released Merlot, this Cabernet Sauvignon, now easily competes for the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Israel.  A rich, opulent and powerful Cabernet Sauvignon that provides layers of complexity while maintaining its composure with poise and elegance.  85% Cabernet Sauvignon (split 60-40% between the Dishon and Kerem Ben-Zimra vineyards) and blended with 6% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc and rounded out with 3% Petit Verdot, the wine spent 16 months in French oak as components before being blended in stainless steel and then bottle aged as a finished wine for an additional ten months prior to release (similar to the process for the Merlot).  The wine has a rich and opulent nose of ripe red and black berries, Mediterranean herbs, rich dark chocolate, notes of cedar and a nice overlay of spice.  A full bodied palate loaded with more rich fruit including blackberry, cherry, plum, cassis with subtle notes of raspberries and blueberries along with spicy wood, tobacco leaf, anise and caressing tannins that are still tight but bode extremely well for the future.  A lingering finish of minty chocolate, tobacco and more herbs lingers.  I wouldn’t crack this one for another 12-18 months, after which is should cellar nicely through 2022, likely longer.

Flam, Noble, 2010:  As a special treat during my last visit to Flam, I got to taste the 2010 Noble.  The Noble is Flam’s new flagship blend and the inaugural (non-kosher) 2008 vintage was released around eight months ago.  The wine is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% each of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot.  Golan meticulously selected the absolute best grapes for each varietal from among Flam’s best plots.  Each of the components spent a year aging separately in new oak before being blended together and then spending an additional year in oak at which point the wine is bottled and spends another two years aging comfortably in the bottle in Flam’s cellar before release.  Given the excellence of the Cabernet Sauvignon above and the selection process for this wine, I expected something special (even taking into consideration the fact that there was nearly two years of bottle aging ahead) and wasn’t disappointed.  Reflective of the Flam’s winemaking philosophy, the wine is loaded with rich and extracted flavors while retaining elegance and poise, coupled with power and with what appears at this early stage to be substantial aging ability.  Besides the obvious youth of the wine and its obvious elegance, it is a bigger and more powerful wine than the Cabernet Sauvignon and should be spectacular when released (and for quite some time thereafter).  The nose was pretty closed at this point but slowly opened to reveal crushed red and black berries, rich cassis, black plums, blackberries and some blueberries, all in nice harmony with slightly spicy oak, roasted herbs, tobacco and a pleasing hint of fine dark chocolate.  The full-bodied palate was rich, deep and satisfying with layers of flavors, spices, mineral and velvety yet powerful tannins; seemingly changing every minute the wine spent in my glass.  A long and lingering finish with more fruit, dark chocolate, a hint of mint and cedar rounded out a wine that may contest for Israel’s top five when all is said and done.  Time will tell.  Start saving up and making room in your cellar for this wine’s anticipated release in mid-2014 at an ~240 NIS release price (only 5,000 bottles were made).  The wine truly lives up to Yisrael’s moniker for it “the Prime of the Premium” (which, as evidenced by the title of this newsletter, I found to be highly appropriate not only for the wine but for the entire winery)!

Best of the Bunch

April 11, 2013

My Favorite Wines of the 2013 Annual Pesach Wine Buying Guide

Don’t let the title of this newsletter instill fear in your oenophilic hearts, I have not turned to the dark side and this isn’t a newsletter dedicated to mevushal wines.  While such a newsletter (or at least a dedicated webpage on my site,) is coming, Pesach is far from the proper time for such a missive (especially given the tradition to avoid such wines at the Seder).  With Pesach just hours away (and already quite underway for my Israeli and European readers) I wanted to take this opportunity to wish everyone a Happy Passover and a Chag Kasher Ve’Sameach!  Wherever and however you are spending the holiday, I hope you are surrounded with friends, family and copious quantities of great wines to properly honor the Chag, including at least a few Moshiach Wines, which will hopefully be utilized in their intended capacity by the end of the holiday…

While the proliferation of incredible kosher wines is a true blessing, sometimes the sheer quantity of choices can seem confusing, even paralyzing, leading us to give up on finding new treasures and sticking with the tried and true wines we have been enjoying for years, even with so many “better” options on the market.  I hope that my annual Pesach Wine Buying Guide was helpful in navigating the pre-Passover sales offered by nearly every retailer of quality kosher wines and that you were able to stock up on some old favorites and were tempted to try some new wines as well (despite its moniker, the guide can be used as a helpful assistant for wine buying all year round).  Notwithstanding my attempt to winnow down the thousands of kosher wines released annually, I realize that even 150 choices spread across four price ranges can still be a bit overwhelming.  To that end, listed below I have included my five favorite wines from each category, plus five dessert wines to end the Pesach Seder on a sweet note (pre-Afikoman of course).

Under $15.99

(1)                  Capcanes, Peraj Petita, 2011
(2)                  Dalton, “D”, Fume Blanc, 2012
(3)                  Elvi, Cava, Brut, n.v.
(4)                  Galil Mountain, Alon, 2010
(5)                  Vignobles David, Le Mourre de L’Isle, Cotes du Rhone, 2010

$16-29.99

(1)                  Dalton, Alma, Shiraz-Mourvèdre-Viognier, 2010
(2)                  Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2009
(3)                  Hagafen, Roussanne, Lodi, 2011
(4)                  Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2007
(5)                  Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, 2011

$30-50

(1)                  Brobdingnagian, Petite Sirah, 2010
(2)                  Four Gates, Cabernet Franc, 2007
(3)                  Gvaot, Gofna Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010
(4)                  Hagafen, Late Disgorged, Brut Cuvé, 2007
(5)                  Recanati, Mediterranean Reserve, Syrah-Viognier, 2010

Moshiach Wines (for more Moshiach Wines, check out my Best Wines of 2012)

(1)            Carmel, Limited Edition, 2007 (2005)
(2)            Covenant, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 (2004)
(3)            Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Katzrin, 2008 (2004)
(4)            Segal, Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 (2005)
(5)            Yatir, Forest, 2009 (2006)

Dessert

(1)                  Château Guiraud, Sauternes 1er Cru, 2001
(2)                  Domaine Netofa, Port-Style, 2010
(3)                  Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2008 (Shmittah)
(4)                  Hagafen, Prix, Late Harvest Chardonnay, 2006
(5)                  Porto Quevedo, Ruby Port, n.v.

Best of Twitter – Archives #11 (March 2013)

April 9, 2013



March 18th – March 31st

Not that they are needed, but it’s always great to have more excuses to drink Champagne!

As might have been expected, the lawyers are profiting most from the recent “reorganization” at the Wine Advocate…

As Natural Wine demonstrates its staying power, the irreverent HoseMaster gives his take on the phenomenon.

Ordering wine in restaurants can be stressful but Wine Folly’s guide will have you ordering like a pro in no time. I offer a few more tips, including kosher-restaurant specific.

Need help keeping your Rehoboam from your Melchior? This handy bottle size guide should help.

Taking herself a little too seriously, Lettie Teague makes the case for the importance of order in serving wines.

March 11th – March 17th

Eric Asimov recommends some kosher wines for Pesach. Unfortunately he can’t resist the concord reference and only recommends Royal wines (other than a mediocre Riesling). So much for showcasing the awesome diversity of kosher wines…

Forget Terroir. Chris Kassel talks dirt.

Keith Levenberg on Bordeaux reclaiming its rightful place in the vinoverse.

The Wall Street Journal has an interesting article on the difficulty of using wine tasting notes in China, where many of the descriptors aren’t known.

While they won’t be mainstream, the Wine Enthusiast believes Orange Wines are going to stick around.

Tom Wark discusses the Difference Between Wine Writers, Bloggers and Critics. Joe Power has some tips for aspiring wine bloggers…

Wine Folly has some great tips on how to order wine like a Sommelier.

March 4th – March 10th

With the recent serious discussion around the future of traditional wine writing, the HoseMaster finally steps in.

Andrew Jefford explores whether men and woman have different, gender-driven, styles.

With a sell out performance besting Mr. & Mrs. Smith, Brangelina’s Rose sell’s out in record time.

Despite the declarations of it being a fad whose time has past, a guide to “Orange Wine”.

While I usually don’t conduct blind tastings, they certainly have thier merits.

Wine writers and critics need to adapt to changing times, even though the “top dogs” still work for major print publications.

Further devaluing the 100point system, Parker gives out 100 point scores like candy.

Lettie does a pretty good job tackling those ornery wine scores / grades.

Best of Twitter – Archives #10 (February 2013)

March 14, 2013



February 25th – March 3rd

How much of wine and food pairing is manipulation? More than you think…

in the spirit of “fake it till you make it“, the Bluffer’s Guide to Wine.

Wine Folly profiles the delightful Italian Sangiovese.

Letting the world know what every Yossie’s Wine Recommendations reader already did, Eric Asimov praises the Spanish wine of Montsant, including our favorite Capcanes.

Ted Lemon spoke brilliantly about terroir’s role in New World winemaking. Very thought-provoking.

With all the talk about the future of wine writing and criticism, Jon Bonne has some thoughts.

David White has a nice piece on identifying flaws in wine. Off-balance wines should count.

February 18th – February 24th

In celebration of Purim, some satirical recommendations for Kiddush and Dessert wines.

Tim Fish shares some of his wine-related pet peeves.

Wine Spectator takes a closer look at what complexity means in a wine.

Jo Diaz has some good advice for nervous winemakers submitting thier wines to critics.

With typical tenacity, Chris Kassel tackles celebrity wines. Alice Feiring chimes in as well.

February 4th – February 17th

With wine consumption on the rise, Lettie makes the case for Port. Only two “real” kosher Ports, but plenty of quality kosher Port-style wines.

IntoWine releases its second list of the Top 100 Folks in Wine. Tom Wark has a few thoughts.

Taking up the flag, Will Lyons pushes quality dessert wines. With an abundant of kosher options, there is no reason to shy away from these great treats!

Has Champagne gone to the dogs? Kyle Meyer certainly thinks so.

In her usual great style, Wine Folly provides fresh advice on navigating the thousand year old tradition of clinking glasses.

@drvino (aka Tyler Coleman) sits down with the incomparable Howard Goldberg to discuss his new book: “The Book of Wine“.

January 28th – February 3rd

While “Mountain Man” may not be the best moniker for Binyamin, it’s a nice profile of the man behind Four Gates Winery. Check out some recent tasting notes here.

Steve Heimoff explores the “proper” relationship between wineries & bloggers. One word suffices – Professional

cost of wine affects our perception of quality, further cementing the value of blind tasting.

As US wine consumption rises (often at the expense of beer & spirits), Andrew Jefford takes the various number crunchers to task.

Tasting wine doesn’t have to be intimidating. Try these helpful hints, a few more or check out this article on “How to Taste Wine“.